Preservation

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How to Mulch Around a Tree

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By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
April 7, 2021

 

Mulching is an important aspect of tree maintenance that is both functional and decorative, adding to your tree’s lifespan and helping it look its best. The main benefits of tree mulching are that it deters weeds, improves soil quality, protects trees from lawnmower damage, insulates soil from extreme temperatures, and retains moisture during hot weather. Today, I would like to talk about some tips and tricks on how to properly mulch a tree. At the top of this article is an instructional video hosted by ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice that can be used to follow along while mulching your own tree!

Example of a properly mulched tree

Example of a properly mulched tree

To mulch a tree, you will need organic wood chip mulch, a shovel, a rake, and personal protective equipment such as safety glasses, gloves, and boots. A wheelbarrow or air spade may potentially be needed depending on the situation. The best time to mulch a tree is in the fall or spring. Many trees are incorrectly mulched when the mulch is too high or when it covers the root collar of the tree, which is where the trunk and roots meet. The mulch only needs to be 1 to 2 inches deep and the root collar should be completely exposed in order to properly receive oxygen. This will help prevent girdling roots, which are roots that wrap around the trunk in search of oxygen. This can suffocate a tree and add unnecessary stress. If your tree has girdling roots or a mulch volcano, you will need to resolve these issues prior to mulching.

If there are no girdling roots, the first step is to pull out any weeds surrounding the base of the tree. Then, you may begin applying mulch in a wide and evenly spread area. For younger trees, it is ideal to mulch all the way out to the canopy drip line, which is where the majority of a tree’s roots extend, but you may have to compromise depending on your landscape.

Example of a canopy drip line

Example of a canopy drip line

For older trees, this is not as important. You should still see similar results when bringing the mulch out about 3 to 5 feet from the base. You can use a rake, shovel, or your hands to evenly distribute the mulch. The mulch only has to be about 1 to 2 inches deep at most, so make sure you avoid mounding, Leave about 2 to 3 inches of space between the mulch and the root collar in order for the tree to properly receive oxygen and to prevent girdling roots. This will also help prevent any moisture issues, which can lead to disease and rotting. Afterwards, you are all set!

For maintenance, water your mulch whenever it looks dry. Ohio can have inconsistent weather, so there is no need to water it on a scheduled basis. Also, only add mulch whenever it is looking sparse and below that 1 to 2 inch needed depth. Make sure you break up, turn over, and mix in the old mulch to prolong the mulch’s lifespan, prevent any clumping, and to allow maximum movement of oxygen and water. If there are any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comments section below and be sure to watch ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice’s video for a visual guide on this topic! Good luck on your next mulching project!

Additional Reads!

Below are two excellent articles written by our ISA Certified Arborists related to mulch volcanoes and girdling roots.

”Mulch Mounds! Oh My!”
by ISA Board Certified Master Arborist José Fernández

“Are Your Trees Being Suffocated By Their Own Roots?”
by ISA Certified Arborist Chris Gill

Enrique Arayata Headshot.jpg

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

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Where’s the Fruit?

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As an arborist, I often feel like I need to double as a detective. Trees, obviously, cannot tell us verbally how they are "feeling" or why they are behaving in a certain way. We have to look for clues as to what is possibly going on with them. When I am asked why a tree is performing poorly, oftentimes I need to swap out my helmet for a Sherlock Holmes cap and start digging around, asking questions of the tree's caretaker and standing back to observe the environment in which the tree exists.

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What's Going on with My Oak? Part 2

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Earlier this year, we shared an article that highlighted two issues that were tied to recent weather patterns and had many homeowners concerned about their oak trees - one was an insect (Oak Shothole Leafminer) and another was a fungal pathogen (Oak Anthracnose). Combined, they made for unsightly leaves that were riddled with holes and brown patches. Fortunately, both issues were more of an aesthetic concern than anything else, and neither of them required treatment or had any lasting effects on the overall health of the trees. In fact, they are both likely to occur each year to some degree and should not be reason for concern.

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Best Practices for Watering Your Trees

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Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.

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Worms by the Bagful

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Worms by the bagful. Bagworms, that is. This interesting insect is not really what we would usually call a worm, but is considered a caterpillar instead. While most caterpillars pupate into a flying adult (moth or butterfly), the female of this species never emerges from her mobile home. The male does, and he flies to the female so they can engage in activities that ensure the species does not die out.

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Oak pruning, fascinating tree facts, and other thoughts

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Here we are, fresh out of the holiday season, and the end of January is in sight! I wanted to reach out to you with some timely advice concerning trees, some reminders of why trees are so essential to life as we know it, and perhaps some other thoughts that might sneak out through my fingers as I type.

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Identifying & Managing Rhizosphaera Needle Cast

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Rhizosphaera needle cast (RNC) – quite a mouthful, especially when one is an arborist in training, still green in the green industry.  My supervisor had just handed me a photocopy of a fact sheet on the disease since I had asked him about spruce trees I had been seeing with defoliating branches.

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Mulch Mounds! Oh My!

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Two days ago I stopped by the local gas station/grocery store compound around sunrise to replenish my truck’s fuel tank. As I drove on the service road passing the commercial property I felt something strange tugging at my peripheral vision, like large chocolate chips dotting the edge of my field of view. I took my eyes off the road for a moment, and sure enough, seemingly overnight the landscape had changed. It was as if a very large community of rodents had decided to move in and dig burrows in the landscape, leaving all the soil in regular mounds, perfectly spaced on the lawn. The next moment I saw that each mound had a tree growing out of it.  Then the colors of breaking dawn also brought the light of knowledge to me as I realized “It’s spring, and the mulch mounders are at it again”.

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Tree Law: "Who Owns This Tree?"

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First and most importantly, I am not an attorney. What I am is a concerned business owner who has an interest in the law.  Having recently read Arboriculture and the Law co-authored by Victor D. Merullo and Michael J. Valentine, I am inclined to share my findings in hopes of answering a few common questions we receive every year dealing with liability basics and the general risks associated with tree ownership.

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Watch Out for Girdled Trees!

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Quite regularly I encounter trees that are being girdled by some sort of material, mostly guy wires or straps installed during planting, and subsequently forgotten. Sometimes there are other things that catch me by surprise. Usually these are things placed by people and never maintained. For this article I will start with the most common girdling issue and then mention some of the other items.

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A Boxwood Bummer

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I wanted to dedicate this installment to Boxwood Blight, since this is a disease which has the potential to disrupt formal landscapes all across the state. The disease is fungal, and affects boxwood, especially the cultivated varieties ‘American’ and ‘Suffruticosa’. It is relatively recent in the United States, and was found in Ohio nurseries in 2011.

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Test Before Treatment: Soil & Tissue Testing

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I find it interesting that test procedures recommended in the medical field for human health have become part of the expected methodology, but not so much in arboriculture, for tree health. As arborists, we are trained that a soil test should be done prior to recommending fertilization, for example, but I don’t know of many outfits that make soil sampling a part of their modus operandi.

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Fear no Weevil (With Fall Systemic Insecticide)

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As we prepare for another season of Fall Tree Wellness, another important insect pest to take note of is the White Pine Weevil. White Pine Weevil is a damaging pest to a broad range of conifers, including White, Scotch, Red and Austrian pine as well as Colorado blue, Norway, and Serbian spruce. Douglas-fir can also be attacked.

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Are Your Trees Being Suffocated By Their Own Roots?

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More and more trees are growing up in confined urban environments that force their root systems to wrap around the base of the tree causing girdling roots. Girdling roots will block vital nutrients to flow to the tree's canopy which can eventually cause the tree to die. The good news: girdling roots can be fixed if caught early!

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Did You Know Construction Can Kill Trees?

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We see it all the time: trees surrounding a newly built home dying as a result of soil compaction and mechanical damage from heavy machinery, as well as change in the native grade affecting soil depth and water flow. A tree preservation plan is needed prior to construction which prioritizes your woody landscape as an important part of your construction project. With a Pre-Construction Tree Preservation Consultation from Arbor Answers, our experts will build a custom plan for your construction site to encourage the trees to thrive following the completion of the project.