Make Your Yard POP in the Fall: 10 Trees to Add Fall Color to Your Landscape!

By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7168A
October 23, 2025

Autumn is upon us! And one of the joys of the season is admiring a vast array of fall foliage. If you are considering adding trees to your landscape, you may be wondering which trees provide the best fall color. Look no further! The list below includes my top 10 picks for trees of various sizes known for their outstanding fall foliage.

1. Smooth Sumac

Smooth sumac is often overlooked when it comes to landscape plants, but it delivers some of the most vibrant early fall color out of any smaller sized tree. Smooth sumac also has the benefit of being well adapted to a wide array of soils making it a relatively low-maintenance tree. It’s also accompanied by scarlet red berry clusters that if left unharvested will persist after leaf drop extending its landscape value into winter.

Scientific Name: Rhus glabra
Mature Height: 10 to 15 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Orange to scarlet or crimson red

2. Washington Hawthorn

Making a reappearance off our article, 10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!, the Washington hawthorn also provides excellent fall foliage as the dark green leaves turn to various shades of orange and red. Similar to the Smooth sumac, the red berries endure after leaf drop and provide tasty snacks for song birds trying to make it through winter. If the thorny branches do not deter you, then this small to medium sized tree is a great year-round choice.

Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum
Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet
Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun
Fall Color: Oranges and reds

3. Black Tupelo (or Black Gum)

Black tupelo, or black gum as some call it, is one of the most striking native trees for fall color. Its glossy green summer leaves turn into a fiery mix of yellow, orange, scarlet, and maroon. Black tupelos are medium-sized trees with a pyramidal shape when young that become more round with age and prefer moist, acidic soils. Their brilliant color, wildlife value, and tolerance of wet or compacted soils make it a fantastic specimen forboth residential and natural landscapes alike.

Scientific Name: Nyssa sylvatica
Mature Height: 30 to 50 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Variety of oranges and reds

4. American Persimmon

Persimmon trees are known for their sweet fruit that ripen in late fall just in time to make their way into pies, cakes, cookies, and sorbets. But that is not the only thing they bring to the table in fall. They also provide excellent yellow to orange fall color for a medium sized tree. Persimmons can be a bit slow growing, certainly taking their time to mature to “fruit-ion”, but those willing to wait will soon find themselves the family favorite come Thanksgiving.

Scientific Name: Diospyros virginiana
Mature Height: 30 to 55 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 30 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Yellow to orange

5. Sassafras

This fun to say tree is a welcome addition to any landscape, easily identifiable by its unusually shaped leaves smelling of root beer in the spring and of citrus in the fall. These leaves can be oval, mitten-shaped, or lobed but come fall they will burst into brilliant combinations of yellow, orange, and red. The bark on sassafras is also known for its aromatic scent of cinnamon, citrus, and vanilla. This medium sized, drought tolerant fall spectacle of a tree is a perfect fit for homeowners who want to “spice up” their landscape.

Scientific name: Sassafras albidum (most common)
Mature Height: 30 to 60 feet
Mature Width: 20 to 35 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Varies from yellow to deep reddish purple

6. River Birch

River birch is often planted for its ability to thrive in less-than-ideal drainage situations and for its unique bark texture that brings strong visual appeal year-round to the landscape. The beautiful golden yellow fall leaves are but another reason to add to the long list of reasons to consider adding a river birch to your landscape. However, some soils may prove difficult for river birch to access all of the nutrients it needs. Thankfully this can be remedied easily and here’s an article by another one of our arborists on this topic, Iron and Manganese Deficiency.

Scientific Name: Betula nigra
Mature Height: 40 to 60 feet
Mature Width: 25 to 40 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Golden yellow

7. Ginkgo

Dating all the way back to the mid-Jurassic period, Ginkgo trees are some of the oldest and toughest trees around. Little known fact, four ginkgo trees survived the bombing of Hiroshima and are still around to this day. If this tree can survive the unfortunate circumstances of an atomic bomb, then this tree will do just fine in your heavily urban landscape. On top of this tree’s incredible resilience, it also boasts spectacularly bright yellow fall foliage that is sure to amaze. Just be sure when you are selecting this tree that you get a male ginkgo as the females produce fruit with a rather unpleasant odor.

Scientific Name: Ginkgo biloba
Mature Height: 40 to 70 feet
Mature Width: 30 to 40 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Brilliant yellow

8. American Beech

Some may be surprised to see me recommend an American beech tree in light of my previous article, Beech Leaf Disease: The Looming Threat to Central Ohio’s Beeches, but any list of trees talking about fall color would be remiss without its inclusion. The silvery smooth bark of the American Beech is complimented by golden amber fall leaves that hold on long into winter after most other trees have long since gone bare. It is slow growing, but sure to impress for a long time.

Scientific Name: Fagus grandifolia
Mature Height: 50 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 40 to 60 feet
Sun Preference: full sun to partial sun
Fall Color: Bronze to copper

9. Red Oak

As the name would imply, red oaks provide a tower of brick red leaves that can easily command over a large landscape. Their ability to grow quickly while juvenile and thrive in our native soils makes the mighty red oak a staple for new planters looking for a cornerstone piece in a larger more natural landscape. However, in the compacted soils and confined spaces of our more urban areas, the red oak can face challenges that limit its growth and diminish the vibrant color it is known for.

Scientific Name: Quercus rubra
Mature Height: 60 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 60 to 80 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Dark reddish brown

10. Shagbark Hickory

Truthfully all members of the hickory family are going to give you an outstanding yellow fall foliage and deserve a place on this list, but I chose to highlight the shagbark hickory for the additional appeal of its iconic peeling bark. Hickory trees are incredibly durable and long-lived trees that also require minimal care once established. If you are looking for a unique, low-maintenance tree that will provide excellent shade, beautifully vibrant yellow fall foliage, and habitat for wildlife for tens of generations, then look no further.

Scientific Name: Carya ovata
Mature Height: 70 to 80 feet
Mature Width: 50 to 60 feet
Sun Preference: Full sun to partial shade
Fall Color: Brilliant yellow

And that’s my list! Whether you’re looking for bold reds, glowing golds, or a striking mix of fall hues, these 10 trees offer some of the best autumn color nature has to offer. And here at Russell Tree Experts we offer various tree care services to keep your landscape display breathtaking for years to come, such as deep root irrigation, fertilization, insect and disease management, tree pruning, and much more! For a free tree work quote on how to elevate your landscape by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, please visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000. Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Alex Miller I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!

Fall Fertilization: A Boost For Tree Health and Growth!

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
October 9, 2025

As the leaves turn vibrant shades of orange and red and the air grows crisp, fall signals a time of transition for trees. While many of us associate fertilization with spring, fertilizing trees in the fall offers unique and powerful benefits that can set your trees up for success. By giving your trees a nutrient boost as the growing season winds down, you’re helping them thrive through winter and into the next year. Additionally, combining fall fertilization with spring fertilization can amplify these benefits, helping to ensure your trees remain healthy, strong, and beautiful year-round.

At Russell Tree Experts, we fertilize trees through a technique called deep-root fertilization. We perform deep-root fertilization by using a lance to inject liquid fertilizer under pressure deep into the feeder root system in a soluble form that is easy for the tree to take up. This is superior to a traditional surface application where a granular fertilizer is spread over the root system of a tree but still requires time for the product to break down and work itself into the soil. Deep-root fertilization allows nutrients to pass by the competitive roots of turf, weeds, and other ground covers to maximize uptake for the tree. The process of deep root fertilization also helps to loosen up compacted soil around the tree to promote better root growth while also allowing water and oxygen to more easily reach the roots. Compacted soil is a common problem in urban landscapes and can reduce a tree’s ability to access nutrients.

Sugar maple (Acer saccharum) fall foliage

Sugar maple (Acer saccharum) fall foliage

Why Fall Fertilization Matters

In the fall, trees shift their energy from producing leaves and growing branches to strengthening their root systems and preparing for dormancy. This is a critical time for trees, as they store nutrients to survive the cold months ahead. Fertilizing in the fall provides the essential nutrients trees need to bolster their roots, improve resilience, and prepare for a robust start in spring.

One method of fall fertilization is through the use of an irrigation lance to deliver nutrients below ground, closer to a tree’s roots.

One of the biggest benefits of fall fertilization is root development. During autumn, trees focus on growing their roots, which anchor them and absorb water and nutrients. By applying fertilizer in the fall, you give trees the building blocks they need to expand and strengthen their root systems. Stronger roots mean trees are better equipped to handle drought, storms, and other environmental stresses.

Fall fertilization also helps trees store nutrients for winter. As trees enter dormancy, they rely on stored energy to survive until spring. Fertilizer provides a nutrient reserve that trees can draw upon during this period, to help them emerge from winter in a healthy condition. This nutrient boost supports overall tree health, leading to better resistance against pests, diseases, and harsh winter conditions.

Another advantage of fall fertilization is improved bud and flower formation. The nutrients provided in the fall contribute to the development of next season’s buds, which means healthier blooms and foliage when spring arrives. Trees that are well-nourished in the fall often produce healthier flowers and lusher leaves, enhancing your landscape.

Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus) fall foliage

Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus) fall foliage

The Power of Combining Fall and Spring Fertilization

While fall fertilization lays a strong foundation for tree health, pairing it with spring fertilization creates a dynamic duo for year-round vitality. Spring is a time of rapid growth, as trees produce new leaves, flowers, and branches. Fertilizing in the spring provides an immediate supply of nutrients to fuel this growth. It supports vigorous shoot development, leading to fuller canopies and stronger branches. Spring fertilization also enhances photosynthesis, helping trees produce the energy they need to grow and thrive.

When you fertilize in both seasons, you’re giving your trees a balanced nutrient plan. Fall fertilization builds the root system and prepares trees for winter, while spring fertilization supports above-ground growth and energy production. Together, they help your trees have the resources they need at every stage of their growth cycle. This combination promotes long-term health, making trees more resilient to environmental challenges and helping them live longer, more productive lives.

In summary, fall fertilization is a simple and effective way to support your trees’ health, strengthening their roots and preparing them for winter. By taking the time, this fall to nourish your trees, you’ll help them thrive for seasons to come. For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Why Do Leaves Change Color?

By Laura Howell
September 25, 2025

How and what does a tree eat? Why do leaves change colors in the fall? Why do trees drop their leaves? 

Trees, just like humans, need nutrients, oxygen, water, and the sun to thrive. Also, adaptations for surviving our climates have occurred in both trees and humans, but ours are less showy in the fall.

Let's start with the first question: how and what does a tree eat?

When we eat carbohydrates, our bodies produce glucose, aka sugar, which we either use instantly or store for later. Similarly, trees also utilize carbohydrates in their growth, but instead of eating a sandwich, they use water from their leaves and roots, carbon dioxide (CO2) from the environment, and energy from their leaves through a process called photosynthesis. Photosynthesis uses the leaves’ stored chlorophyll, which produces? … You guessed it, carbohydrates! Science note: Chlorophyll is also why leaves appear green… more on that shortly!

Common serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea)

Common serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea)

So, how does this tie into the next question: Why do leaves change colors in the fall?

Well, simply put, the sun is to blame for the fall colors we get to enjoy. Because the sun is getting further away from our hemisphere, the days become shorter, and the temperatures start to drop. This causes the tree’s adaptation to enter the chat. Remember the tree needs water, sunlight, and CO2 to make its food (glucose), and what is beginning to decrease? … That's right, the amount of sunlight the stored chlorophyll can use to make energy with. 

For the tree to survive the coming months of less water absorption from frozen soil, no rain, and reduced sunlight, the tree must dramatically reduce its energy needs. The cooler weather and shorter days trigger the trees to stop producing and start reclaiming the existing chlorophyll nutrients. 

Freeman maple (Acer x freemanii)

Freeman maple (Acer x freemanii)

Remember the science note from earlier? This reduction and reclaiming of the existing chlorophyll cause the leaves to change colors. Chlorophyll absorbs red and blue light, causing most of us to see leaves as green. As the level of chlorophyll continues to decrease, we get to see the other colors in the spectrum. Remember ROY-G-BIV? Once green gets out of there, the fall show can really start.

My friend Kim Frye is an environmental scientist, and while I was chatting with her about this article, she shared a fun detail about leaf pigments: "[trees produce] xanthophyll (yellow orange) and anthocyanins (red purple blue), and they also help all year long when the light changes in the mornings and at nightfall. Those wavelengths become more predominant as we head into fall and maximize photosynthesis beyond the wavelengths chlorophyll uses."

Now onto the last question: Why do trees drop their leaves?

Ginkgo tree leaves (Ginkgo biloba)

Once the tree has reclaimed all the available chlorophyll stored in its leaves, an important step in the tree’s survival happens: it drops its leaves. It does this for a few reasons, but the main one is to reduce energy needs and conserve as much water and stored energy as it can. This increases its survival during the winter months when it can't produce energy from the sun and absorb water through the frozen ground. This also ensures the tree has enough energy come springtime to grow and produce new leaves to begin the photosynthesis cycle again. I bet that it is a re-leaf to trees each spring!

Think of the complex and inspiring work all of the colors mean as the leaves put on their show, the next time you are enjoying leaves. Whether that is in the spring when everything is green and energetic, or in the fall with the beautiful multi-colored show ushering in a restful period for plants.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Laura Howell | Human Resources Generalist, Russell Tree Experts

Laura joined Russell Tree Experts in January 2025. She supports our staff through her role in the HR department. Laura is an alum from Franklin University and CSCC with degrees in forensic accounting and finance. Outside of work she enjoys traveling, gardening, and camping.

Stressful Situations

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
September 11, 2025

We're not so different, humans and trees. We're both born with tools to keep ourselves upright and thriving. We are impacted by many of the same stressors and overcome them in similar ways. But because the majority of you reading this are people, not plants, human responses to stress may seem obvious, while tree responses are a mystery.

Let's close this gap in understanding by focusing on common tree stressors, what they look like, and how to manage them in human terms. To maintain a light degree of stress, I'll even include a quiz at the end (not a joke - read closely!).

2 diagrams will be critical to keep in mind as you read - the disease triangle and the integrated pest management pyramid.

Disease Triangle

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) System Pyramid

The disease triangle shows disease is only possible when a pathogen, a susceptible host, and a favorable environment are all present. If any of those is lacking, disease cannot happen. 

The integrated pest management control pyramid shows the most responsible and long-term solution to pest prevention is proper culture. This means native trees planted in appropriate locations, soils rich in microorganisms, and gardens promoting pollinators and predators. In this model, chemicals are the least-used option.

Our team member Scott making a tree pruning cut!

Pruning

Luckily, the days of bloodletting as medicine are long gone. Today, we would never cut our calf to cure influenza or apply leaches to arthritic joints. Yet, that's still how we treat our trees. Aside from a few specific fungal situations and removing co-dominant leads from young trees, pruning stressed trees makes the situation worse. As with the human body, wounds should be kept as minimal and as small as possible.

Nutrient Deficiency/Toxicity

When we're hungry, we eat. Trees do, too -- an unobstructed root system and full canopy can provide a tree all it needs to succeed.

We know what starvation looks like in humans and understand the problems caused by lack of specific nutrients (decreased immune system from lack of vitamin C, fatigue and pale skin from iron deficiency, etc.), but we don't think of tree nutrition in the same way.

An example of chlorosis in a tree, likely due to an iron or manganese deficiency

In trees, nutrient deficiencies can be indicated by small, misshapen, and/or discolored leaves. A hungry tree may look wilted, or droop. It may begin to produce branches on the trunk because it no longer has the energy to pump water to existing leaves. Like us, trees can be otherwise healthy, but suffer because of a single lacking nutrient (yellow leaves due to manganese deficiency, for example).

While organic fertilizers like the ones we apply at Russell Tree Experts are nearly impossible to over-apply, excess petroleum-based fertilizers can be as deadly to trees as excess donuts to humans. Over-fertilized trees may develop bark cracks or poor structure from rapid expansion. More critically, they may outpace the natural microorganisms in the air and soil around them, leaving them reliant on humans to provide necessary food.

The point of all this is trees and humans both require a diverse diet, and are typically able to achieve it with natural feeding. Supplementation to fulfill those dietary needs is only needed if there's a specific deficiency. Fertilizing a tree stressed from drought is no more helpful than giving a sandwich to a man who's been burned.

An example of how a leaf can curl and droop due to drought stress

Heat/Drought Stress

We all know the misery of standing in the sun on a hot day. Unlike us, though, trees can't sweat or jump in a pool. Instead, they close their stomata (the pores on their leaves) to help preserve water, and shed leaves to decrease the surface area the sun can dry out.

Heat and drought stressed trees often look wilted, with dry, brown, curled leaves falling in summer. The takeaway? If you're in heat, a dose a cough syrup won't make you less hot, but drinking plenty of water will allow you to sweat and cool naturally. Similarly, it's common for trees to look unhealthy in summer, but the only solutions are cooler temperatures and more water - pruning or fertilizer only make things worse.

Pathogens

Like most illnesses in humans, most tree infections are short-lived and controlled by the tree itself. We rely on beneficial fungi, bacteria, and viruses in our guts. But trees create symbiotic (helpful for both) relationships with microorganisms in the air, water, and soil. If a disease gets past a tree's microorganism army, the tree can block its own vascular system to isolate the pathogen in place.

A Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) affected by rhizosphaera needle cast.

Also like us, healthy living prevents tree disease and shortens recovery. This means mulching the root zone, watering during drought, and yes, even applying fertilizer and pruning out diseased branches.  

The signs and symptoms of tree pathogens vary broadly. Cherry black knot and cedar-hawthorn rust develop fruiting bodies on branch tips and fruits. Crabapple scab causes premature leaf drop, while rhizosphaera needlecast causes permanent needle loss in spruces. All are host-specific - they cannot pass from one type of tree to another.

In both humans and plants, some pathogens require additional action. As with drugs in humans, fungicides should only be used on plants in specifics dosages and intervals, and should only be used as needed to prevent resistance.

QUIZ TIME!

We’ve made it to the end of this article, which means quiz time! Time to put your newfound knowledge to the test! Tip: It is an open-note quiz. If you take and submit the quiz with a passing grade (3 or more correct answers), you’ll be entered in to win a free RTE gift bag. Shipping and handling free for those in the 48 contiguous United States. Winner will be drawn on Thursday, September 18th. You may retake the quiz if you only scored 1 or 2 correct answers in your first attempt! As always, thank you for taking the time to read our articles. For a free tree work quote by 1 of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

Take the quiz HERE.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening!

Set in Stone: A Letter of Gratitude, Farewell, and Exciting New Worlds

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
August 21, 2025

It’s not everyday that life-changing experiences come along that alter the trajectory of your career. It’s also not everyday that you find a supportive and inspiring employer like Joe Russell and Russell Tree Experts, that encourages you to pursue what drives you. I’ve had the good fortune of both.

I met Joe Russell in 2004 when we worked together briefly at another tree care company. The very next year, Russell Tree Experts opened for business. I began working there in 2011, took a small break from the profession after going back to school and pursuing a different field of work, and ultimately made my way back in 2019. Fast forward to 2022, and as the world is finding its way back to some level of normalcy after the pandemic, a series of events and chance encounters led to an opportunity to work abroad as a gardener and arborist in Japan. I remember how much thought I gave to this, the weight of that decision, not sure what the right decision even was. When I finally brought it up to Joe, I think he was almost more excited and sure of it than I was. Never one to miss an opportunity to lift up others around him, he said, “You gotta do it!”

The time I spent living and working as a gardener in Japan, to put it simply, had a more profound impact on my life than perhaps anything else ever has. In my work, I was able to approach new methods of pruning and garden care with a beginner’s mind while simultaneously applying over two decades of work experience. And being fully submersed in a different culture on the other side of the world was in itself an amazing experience. Having that opportunity arise in mid-life, with a few more years of life’s wisdom under my belt, made for a different experience than it would have been in my 20s, an age when people typically have the chance to pursue a travel-abroad adventure just after college. While others would probably fill their free time in Japan with Tokyo’s night-life and taking in all of the amazing food the culture has to offer, I spent mine visiting gardens. Dozens and dozens of gardens. In the last 3 months of my time there, I moved to Kyoto, the once-capital of and historic epicenter of the country, and pursued a self-study intensive of over 100 gardens throughout the city and surrounding countryside. I knew before leaving that I wanted to share what I learned and saw with others when I returned to Ohio. And, as if having the support of Joe Russell to leave and pursue a dream in the first place wasn’t amazing enough, I had a job waiting for me at Russell Tree Experts when I returned. However, as I settled back into everyday life in Ohio, a flame that had been lit inside me from my time abroad refused to go out. In fact, it grew with each passing day.

Iwakura Japanese Gardens began as a side-venture landscape business, born from that flame. I found a sense of peace and stillness in my soul while working in and visiting so many sacred spaces in Japan, and that felt like something worth sharing. The pursuit of an offering so niche as designing and building Japanese gardens, in Central Ohio of all places, may sound like a fruitless undertaking. But a “build it and they will come” approach has so far been met with a positive reception. From business locations to private residences, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the number of individuals that express a real interest in having the Japanese garden aesthetic, or parts of it, in their landscapes. Enough so that it now makes sense to pursue it full-time.

Iwakura (e-wa-ku-ra) Japanese Gardens specializes in the design and build of Japanese-style gardens and landscape features. With a focus on minimalism, elements like stone, wood, water, and select plants are used to create spaces that mimic scenes and experiences of the natural world. Empty spaces in the garden are just as important as the physical elements themselves, allowing the eyes to “rest” between elements as the garden is viewed. Like the feeling we get when we declutter a living space, a Japanese garden has strong elements, but fewer of them and only what’s essential, creating a space around you that calms and quiets the mind. For those that do not explicitly want a Japanese-style garden, many of the design elements can still be incorporated into a more traditional midwest landscape to create outdoor spaces that work with the home’s architecture and use-requirements for the space. Larger stones can be incorporated into bed spaces as a strong, anchoring element. Groundcovers and stone borders can take the place of, or reduce, the need for typical edging and mulching practices. A small water feature placed next to a patio or screened porch in the backyard can bring the peaceful sound of water and a touch of the Japanese aesthetic to the landscape. Japanese gardens work wonderfully in the biggest and smallest of spaces alike.

I’ve had the pleasure of working directly with many of you who are reading this article. A few of you even expressed words of encouragement when I informed you that I was leaving and going to Japan. For that, I thank you. My role at Russell Tree Experts may be coming to an end, but I look forward to working with them in a different capacity, and I’m grateful to be able to refer my friends, family, and landscape clients to such a trusted and respected tree care company when the need arises. Ironically, my bittersweet departure from Russell Tree Experts reminds me that nothing is set in stone, even as the gardens and landscapes that I now create are quite literally set in and designed with stone as a primary aesthetic.

I hope you will continue to place your trust in Russell Tree Experts, benefit from the educational articles they write, and support the health and preservation of trees and beautiful outdoor spaces!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

The Impact of SO MUCH Water on Trees!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
August 1, 2025

Happy Friday, August 1st! Here are 3 quick thoughts I’d like to share this morning:

1. SO MUCH RAIN!

This is the wettest growing season I can recall to date in my professional career as an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. Normally by this point in the year, I’m watering different parts of my garden daily and have set up the sprinkler on my lawn at least a few times. I have done neither of those things thus far and even found myself moving some of my container grown trees this past weekend onto the porch because they were being over-watered by mother nature and starting to show signs of stress. Despite the beautiful green lawns and lush new growth in our trees and shrubs, the high volume of rain mixed with cool overnight temperatures have resulted in some of the most prolific foliar fungal disease symptoms I have observed to date. Anthracnose, a common foliar fungal disease of oak, maple, ash and sycamore has run rampant through central Ohio and I’m even noticing it in native forest grown trees. Applescab, black spot and rust diseases on foliage have also been unusually bad. Even some trees that have been preventatively treated in the spring are developing symptoms due to the longer than normal “spring-like” wet season we’re experiencing. The good news is that most of the foliar fungal pathogens we deal with are aesthetic in their damage, often just causing leaf distortion, brown spots on the leaf surface or partial defoliation, and have little impact on the overall long-term health of the tree. Some of these diseases can be easily managed so give us a call if we can help!

An example of anthracnose

2. The Dryness is (Likely) Coming

Despite the excessive moisture we’ve had throughout the summer so far, we’re at the beginning of what has historically been the driest part of the growing season in central Ohio. August and September are the two months that I see the highest mortality of newly planted trees and shrubs due to drought stress. The drought of last August and September 2024 was historic and for the first time, I observed established trees that had been planted correctly and in the ground for over a decade dry up and die. Generally, healthy and established trees that have been in the ground for over 5 years do not require supplemental water to get them through the growing season. When we have stretches of 6 to 8 weeks without rainfall, even your established trees need help. Do not let yourself be fooled by how wet the season has been thus far. When conditions change this month, be sure to have your watering wands (and buckets) out and ready. Remember that delivering water to trees and shrubs slowly and deeply is the key and that in most cases, irrigation systems and sprinklers, although great for lawns and flower beds, will not reach the depths required to sufficiently hydrate tree roots. Last year, Russell Tree Experts began offering a new service called deep root irrigation (DRI). DRI uses a lance to inject water deep into the root system of trees and shrubs. This method helps bypass the roots of turf, weeds, or ground cover and delivers water directly to the tree roots while also reducing water lost to runoff or evaporation like you might experience if applying water at the surface level. We saved many newly planted trees and woody landscapes with this service through the end of last summer/early fall and kept a lot of newly planted trees hydrated while their owners were on vacation. Let us know if we can help you with your tree watering needs!

3. Meet New Team Members!

Lastly (but not leastly), I’d like to introduce the two newest members of our management team, Andrew Hendricks and Alex Miller. Both of these gentlemen are ISA Certified Arborists®, have a long history of excellence at Russell Tree Experts and have likely been in your yard already to prune a tree or treat for a disease/insect problem. Andrew joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been working in the green industry for over a decade. He holds degrees in forestry and wildlife management and is an avid gardner and outdoorsman. Alex has a strong background in the nursery industry and has been working to keep your trees maintained and healthy at Russell Tree Experts since 2021. These guys are dedicated to the long term care of trees and to making the world a better place. We’re fortunate to have them on staff! They’ll be out and about regularly performing consultations and estimate requests so don’t be shy if you see them in your yard. You’ll be in great hands. As always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office at (614) 895-7000!

Andrew Hendricks

Alex Miller

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

5 Tree Watering Methods Ranked Worst to Best!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
July 24, 2025

WHY WATER A TREE? 

Water is one of the most important resources for a tree’s health and vigor. Without sufficient water, a tree will stop growing and eventually decline to its death. However, on the flip side, too much water for a tree and its root zone can also lead to a tree’s decline. As with many things in life, proper tree watering is about finding that balance and being somewhere between too little and too much watering. Let’s go over 5 different ways to water a tree from worst to best! 

HOW TO WATER A TREE?

OPTION 1
LAWN SPRINKLER 

Watering a tree with a sprinkler or hose is one method of tree watering, however, it is typically inefficient for trees and woody plants. A tree takes in water through its roots, and it is common to see sprinklers and hose operators spray water on the tree’s trunk and leaves. Not only is this an inefficient use of water, but it can lead to leaf scorch if watering is done during a bright and sunny day. A slightly more effective method would be to point the water towards the tree roots, but another issue to be cautious of is water running off and ending up elsewhere such as nearby grass, plants, concrete, or towards a sewer drain. Over time, this can also contribute to erosion through soil displacement. This can be minimized by installing a tree mulch ring with a subtle berm around the perimeter so that the mulch can retain as much water for the tree as possible. Out of the 5 tree watering methods discussed here, this would be my last option, but it is better than nothing and is a good alternative to not watering at all. 

Overall Rating: ★☆☆☆☆

OPTION 2
Water BUCKET

A second way to water a tree would be to grab a bucket, fill it with water, and then dump it over the tree’s root zone. This will do a better job at targeting the tree’s roots for proper water absorption and minimize any risk of leaf scorch by keeping the leaves dry, but water runoff can still be a concern, especially if you dump the water all at once. To minimize this, the bucket of water can be slowly distributed in a circle around the tree anywhere from 1 to 3 feet away from the trunk. A disadvantage to this approach is that too much water at one time can lead to runoff. 

Overall Rating: ★★☆☆☆

Option 3
WATERING CAN/GARDEN HOSE

Another tree watering method would be to slowly water the tree using a watering can or a garden hose on a slower, softer setting. Avoiding the trunk and canopy of the tree will eliminate the risk of leaf scorch and reduce the rate of evaporation. Watering at a slower, longer duration will help water infiltrate deeper into the root system and encourage more outward root growth. If using a watering can, I recommend watering 1-2 inches away from the surface and in a circle around the canopy drip line to minimize water runoff.  

Overall Rating: ★★★☆☆

OPTION 4
IRRIGATION LANCE 

Next up, is watering a tree with an irrigation lance! Deep root irrigation (DRI) involves the use of an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water a few inches below ground level, directly targeting the root zone of the tree. Benefits of this watering method are that it minimizes water absorption by aboveground, competing plants, and eliminates any water runoff. Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.  

Deep root irrigation is a service that Russell Tree Experts offers to customers, but an irrigation lance can also be purchased at a home-and-garden store that can connect to your garden hose at home. One detail to consider is that the water from your garden hose may not come out at a high enough psi to break up some compacted soil, but you would still be achieving the goal of watering your trees! One benefit of having Russell Tree Experts water your trees is that we can access trees hard to reach by garden hose (if they are far away from the hose bib) and also water your trees if you are not home, such as on vacation! 

Overall Rating: ★★★★☆

More on deep root irrigation!

OPTION 5
DRIP IRRIGATION

And lastly, one of the most effective and efficient methods of watering a tree is through drip irrigation. This is the process of applying water slowly over an extended period of time. Drip irrigation is very similar to method 3 (with the watering can/garden hose), but the difference is that you slow it down significantly and water over the course of an hour, or even longer depending on the size of the tree. This heavily reduces the potential for water runoff, soil/mulch erosion, and water evaporation. Due to the slower release, the tree will take in water for longer compared to a quick, few minutes of hose spraying. Less water can be used as a higher percentage of water will be targeted towards the tree and not stolen by nearby grass and plants or evaporated by the sun. 

The most expensive way to perform drip irrigation is to install an underground irrigation system with aboveground drippers poking out near the tree’s root system. A cheaper alternative is to use a garden hose nozzle with a locking system, on a low output setting like mist or soaker, to water your tree! Just don’t forget to pick it up once you’re done! Another solution is to use a bucket of water and poke 2 to 3 tiny holes at the bottom so that the water will slowly release. Be cautious as the holes can be clogged up by debris and, depending on the size of your bucket and tree, you may need to refill the bucket more than once. Lastly, another form of drip irrigation is using a tree watering bag. Garden centers typically sell 20-gallon tree watering bags that can be quickly filled but slowly released. Similar to the bucket, the holes can also get clogged up by debris and will need to be inspected periodically. 

Overall Rating: ★★★★★

Drip irrigation in action!

HOW MUCH WATER FOR A TREE? 

Now that you have learned about the worst and best ways to water a tree, you may be asking yourself “how much should I water my tree?” Well... it depends! The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) does not have set guidelines, and neither does Russell Tree Experts. A general rule of thumb is somewhere around 5 to 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at breast height (dbh). Various factors can affect the exact volume such as water runoff, evaporation rate depending on if it’s sunny or hot versus cold and cloudy, competition from nearby grass and plants, level of tree establishment, amount of precipitation during the week, and your patience and commitment to watering. For instance, a newly installed 2-inch dbh tree in the summer at full sun may need 20 gallons of water while an established, more mature 10-inch dbh tree on a cloudy, fall day may only need 50 gallons of water. 

WHEN TO WATER A TREE? 

The best time of day to water a tree is during sunrise or sunset. Temperatures are generally cooler, and the sun is less prevalent, leading to reduced evaporation and leaf scorch. Wet leaves overnight have a risk of fungal and disease issues while wet leaves in the middle of a sunny day have a risk of leaf scorch.  

In terms of frequency... it depends! A newly planted container tree will benefit from watering every 2 to 3 days and a newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree once per week for at least the first 2 to 3 growing seasons (spring through fall). A large, mature tree may not need to be watered except in periods of extended drought and can water itself through its large root system or natural rain. During sunny, summer weather, all trees can benefit from tree watering every few days. During colder, winter weather after first frost, trees may not need to be watered at all except in fringe cases such as planting an evergreen tree late in the fall. If you want the broadest rule of thumb that comes with many exceptions and caveats, water your tree 3 to 4 times per week in the summer, 2 to 3 times per week in the fall and spring, and 0 times per week during most winters, adjusting this based on the tree’s root establishment, weekly temperature, and level of precipitation during a given week. 

WHERE TO WATER A TREE? 

The answer to this question does NOT depend! The best location to water a tree is in a circle around the tree between the trunk and canopy drip line. The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day. In other words, if you look straight up and do not see any leaves, you are past the canopy drip line. There is a common misconception to water a tree right next to the trunk a few inches away. Although this is not a bad location, a tree can take in water from even further away and water should be as uniformly distributed as possible to promote healthy and outward root growth! 

The canopy drip line of a tree is the furthest point that a tree’s leaves reach out to and will drip water during a rainy day.

CONCLUSION 

And there you have it, the essentials of what you need to know about watering a tree! The only other tip I recommend is to install a 2- to 4-inch-deep tree mulch ring around the tree to help conserve water for the tree. A tree mulch ring has a plethora of other benefits such as increased nutrient availability, better temperature regulation, decreasing the risk of stem-girdling roots, outcompeting with other plants, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and increased visual aesthetics! Just be cautious of piling mulch near the root flare/base of the tree! The mulch ring should be level, and the root flare should be exposed. As my friend and coworker TJ Nagel, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®, once said, “watering is the single most importance maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.” For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, including deep root irrigation, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

3 Tree Tips From an RTE Insider!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
July 17, 2025

I'm fortunate to have a partner that loves trees as much as I do. When I met Annette working in the nursery industry twenty-ish years ago I just thought she was cute, she made me laugh and I admired the way she helped people and animals. Over the years, Annette and I have worked together in various gardens, we have spoken together at gardening events, cared for the same clients and we have both become professional arborists. We share a passion for the outdoors, seeing new trees in new places and collecting new plants for our garden when we discover them. In short, she gets me.   

Through her gardening and consulting business, Annette has always proudly promoted responsible tree care and the work that Russell Tree Experts performs. When an opportunity came up this Spring to hire a seasonal Tree Wellness technician, I (somewhat jokingly) suggested that she apply and see things from the other side. She got the position and we got to work together once again! Over the last four months our dinner chats and evening conversations have been filled with observations, debate and education. Listening to her learn the industry was nostalgic and reminded me of why I got into the tree care industry. Annette is back to running her own business again but she will always be a part of Russell Tree Experts. Here are a few things she wanted every client to know -  written in her own words.  

1. Mulch Madness!

Don't smother your plants. In no less than 90% of the yards I visited, mulch was overdone—especially around the base of trees and shrubs. While mulch has its benefits, piling it too high can actually harm your plants.

Here's why: the root flare—the area where the trunk meets the roots—needs air and water to function properly. When mulch is too thick or pressed against the base, roots may grow upward into the mulch in search of oxygen and moisture. This can prevent them from accessing nutrients in the soil, leading to common problems like chlorosis (yellowing leaves), less vigor. Please don't forget this is important
with shrubs as well.

A visual tip: If a tree looks like a telephone pole going into the ground, it's a sign the root flare is buried—and that's worth checking.

An example of a mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed root flare.

2. Not All Fertilizers Are Created Equal

One thing that stood out to me was the quality of the fertilizer used by RTE. Unlike synthetic fertilizers that are heavy in quick-release nitrogen (which can cause fast, weak growth that attracts pests), RTE uses their own naturally composted blend. This organic fertilizer acts more like a soil conditioner—enriching the soil with beneficial microbes, improving its structure, and helping roots absorb nutrients more efficiently. It's a smarter, long-term approach to plant health.

An irrigation lance used to fertilize trees below ground level.

3. A Culture That Cares (About Plants and People)

Even after moving on from the role, I still think about how impressed I am with RTE's company culture. From top leadership and gifted mechanics to the crews in the field, the commitment to doing things right was clear.

Each week, the team holds mandatory "tailgate meetings" focused on safety, plant science, the latest climbing techniques and equipment care—something I haven't seen elsewhere in my 35 years of working in horticulture. I'm not in the habit of suggesting to someone to switch companies if they are already happy with the relationship they have with their current tree company, but my third tip is that I am even more confident referring RTE after working on the inside to homeowners or someone who wants a cool career in tree work than I already was as an observer. It is important to choose a tree company who cares about safety and determining the best method of care for the health and vigor of your trees. I'm also grateful to have a platform on which to share my observations.

And yes, I was genuinely proud to drive around in that beautifully wrapped truck with the crabapple blossoms and have so many opportunities to speak with many of you.

One of our multiple plant healthcare trucks used to help maintain and preserve trees across central Ohio!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

The ULTIMATE Tree Planting Guide!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 29, 2025

- - - -

We’re in the middle of the growing season, which means tree planting time! There are generally 3 commonly sized trees: Tree saplings, container trees, and balled-and-burlapped trees! In today’s article we’ll be discussing how to best plant each of these 3 tree types. With the focus being on installation, we’re not going in-depth on tree selection, planting site selection, or post-installation watering, maintenance, and protection, but articles written by my fellow coworkers and ISA Certified Arborists® on all these supplemental topics will be linked further in this article!  

The first 3 steps for planting any type of tree that I’ll briefly acknowledge but skip past will be to: 

1. SELECT YOUR TREE PLANTING SITE! -> [More Info]

2. SELECT A TREE THAT’S COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR SELECTED PLANTING SITE!

3. NOTIFY YOUR LOCAL UTILITY PROTECTION SERVICE! Call before you dig! It might feel like an unnecessary hassle to begin with, but it’s free and a significantly smaller headache compared to hitting an underground line. In Ohio, it’s OUPS and can be contacted by visiting oups.org. Nationally, you can call 811 to speak with your local utility protection service company! -> [More Info]

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Since a tree sapling’s root system is so small, bare root trees are the smallest, cheapest, and easiest trees to purchase and plant! Another benefit is that they will establish their roots to the planting site easier than a container or balled-and-burlapped tree, making it less susceptible to leaning or falling over during high winds compared to the other 2 tree types. Some disadvantages to consider are that it will take more time to reach full maturity, and they are harder to spot by a distracted lawn mower operator. Somehow both my dad and my uncle mowed over a tree sapling by accident.  

Steps

1. SOAK YOUR TREE! Soak your tree sapling in water for 5-7 minutes to thoroughly moisten the sapling’s root system.  

2. DETERMINE YOUR HOLE SIZE! Measure the sapling’s base of the root to its root flare (meeting point between the roots and the trunk) to determine the depth of your hole.  

3. DIG YOUR HOLE! Your tree hole needs to only be as deep as the measurement between the root flare and bottom of the tree sapling’s roots. Regarding width, a 1 feet diameter circle is more than enough.  

4. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS! Double check your hole’s depth and width! Adjust if necessary. To test this, place your sapling in the hole and ensure that the root flare is equal to the surrounding soil level. Do not cover or bury the root flare. It should be above ground level.  

5. PLACE YOUR TREE IN THE HOLE! Make sure the tree is straight and not leaning. Ensure that the root flare is visible at or slightly above ground level. 

6. BACKFILL THE SOIL! Place the dug-up soil back into the hole. Lightly compact the soil as you begin to reach ground level. You can use your feet/shoes to compact the soil around the tree sapling. Optionally, a 2-4 inch layer of organic wood chip mulch is recommended for numerous reasons such as increased water retention, minimizing temperature fluctuations, increased trunk protection, having less grass to mow, and subjectively, improved aesthetics and curb appeal. 

7. WATER THE TREE! Lightly water the soil (or mulch) around your tree to add moisture back into the surrounding ground. This is especially important when planting saplings in dry or summer-like conditions.  

8. AND... DONE! Voila, your tree sapling has been installed!  

Video

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STEPS

1. DETERMINE THE SIZE OF YOUR HOLE! The hole should be a few inches wider than the tree’s pot, but 1-4 inches shallower than the height of the soil in the tree’s pot. This height difference is because it’s very common for a tree’s root flare (the boundary between the root and the trunk) to be buried in a nursery pot, which is no good. This will be addressed in an upcoming step. The overall shape of the hole should be half of a sphere with its deepest portion being in the middle. 

2. DIG YOUR HOLE! If you’re digging next to grass and you care about your lawn, I would recommend placing your dug-up grass in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp. 

3. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS! Once you’re done digging, double check your work! Again, the hole should be a few inches wider than the tree’s pot, and the depth should be 1-4 inches below the soil’s height. Make adjustments if necessary. 

   Many of my fellow ISA Certified Arborists®, including myself, like to plant trees 1-3 inches above the surrounding ground level as trees commonly settle over the next couple of years. This is to also ensure that the root flare is exposed and not buried, which can cause stem girdling roots. 

4. SLICE THE ROOT BALL 4 TIMES! Take the tree out from the pot and slide 4 straight, evenly distributed lines across the root ball every 90 degrees. This will break up and loosen both the dirt and roots which will help minimize the risk of stem girdling roots and encourage outward growth. Optionally, you can also clean up and remove any small or entangled surface roots. 

5. TEST FIT YOUR TREE! Place your tree in the hole! Triple check that the hole’s shape, depth, width, and height is adequate. As mentioned earlier, if the root flare is 1-3 inches above ground level, this is perfectly fine as the soil will likely settle over time. Make adjustments if needed. 

6. BACKFILL YOUR HOLE! It’s perfectly fine to use the existing, dug-up soil, but optionally, you can mix the dirt with a soil amendment like compost, manure, or topsoil in a 1:1 ratio to add more nutrients into the ground. If you want to save yourself some future weeding, I strongly recommend taking the time to remove any grass from the dug-up soil. As you’re backfilling, break up any chunks of dirt to obtain a fine, porous texture to improve water infiltration and gas exchange. Additionally, observe the tree’s lean or lack thereof to ensure that it is still straight and plumb. The tree can easily lean during the backfilling process. Compact the soil every couple of inches with your hands or feet to eliminate any large air pockets. You want to aim for a compaction level between large air pockets that you can hide your penny collection in, and construction-grade compacted soil where little air and water can transfer through. 

   I strongly recommend adding a 2-4 inch layer of organic wood chip mulch in a ring around the tree. The mulch should match the surrounding grade and not be piled into a mound or volcano-like shape. The radius can be as small as 2 feet wide or as wide as the canopy drip line (the farthest point that leaves or branches extend out to). There are numerous benefits such as reducing the risk of stem girdling roots, less resource competition with nearby grass and above-ground plants, increased water retention, minimizing trunk damage, soil decompaction, and subjectively, increased visual aesthetics and curb appeal. 

7. WATER THE SOIL! You want the soil (or mulch) to be dark brown and saturated with water. Avoid any sitting or pooling water. 

8. PRUNE YOUR TREE! Perform a few, minor pruning cuts. Look for any branches that are rubbing, crossing, or dead and prune them back to the base of a union. 

9. REMOVE TAGS! If there are any tags on the tree and you haven’t removed them already, now’s the time to take them out! 

10. AND VOILA, DONE! Congratulations, your new tree is now installed! 

Video

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STEPS

1. DETERMINE THE SIZE OF YOUR TREE HOLE! Measure your tree so you can determine the size of your hole. For a balled-and-burlapped tree, the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) recommends a hole diameter 1.5 to 2 times larger than the diameter of the root ball. So, if for example your root ball is 3 feet wide, then a hole diameter of 4.5 to 6 feet is recommended. Regarding hole depth, it should be approximately as deep as the root flare of your tree. It is important to note that many balled-and-burlapped trees are already too deep within their own root ball and wire cage. Do not assume that the top of the root ball is the trunk flare. My experience is that more often than not, I have to remove a few inches of soil from above the trunk flare at the time of planting. Many of my fellow ISA Certified Arborist® coworkers and myself like to even plant the tree with the root flare 1-3 inches above ground level to compensate for the soil settling over time. The worst outcome would be for the root flare to be buried and/or below ground level. If the trunk flare is below grade, the tree will be planted too deep and will be more prone to stem girdling roots, reduced vigor, and will become more vulnerable to pests and disease. It is perfectly acceptable if the root flare is slightly above ground level and not perfectly in line with the surrounding grade. 

2. DIG YOUR HOLE! This is definitely the most laborious step, so make sure you have water nearby and you take breaks as needed! Have a game plan for what to do with any dug-up soil and grass. One idea could be to place the top portion of grass into a yard waste bag and place the below-ground soil on a tarp or wheelbarrow. The nearby grassy lawn will thank you for not placing dirt directly on top of it. 

3. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK! Once you’re done digging, double check your measurements! Again, the hole should be 1.5 to 2 times wider than the root ball’s diameter and the depth in the center should be the measurement from the bottom of the root ball to the tree’s root flare. You can be 1 to 3 inches below this measurement in order to ensure that the tree is planted with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Make adjustments to your hole if needed. 

4. TEST FIT YOUR TREE! Place your tree in the center of the hole. Make sure it’s stable before letting go and taking a step back. You can backfill a tiny portion of soil and tamp it against the root ball with your feet. Trust me, I’ve seen a few trees fall down and have broken limbs during this step.  After the tree is standing upright in the hole, verify it is positioned correctly: centered, upright and plumb, and at a height where the trunk flare is at or slightly above the surrounding grade. Make adjustments to your hole if necessary. You may or may not have to take the tree of out of the hole. 

5. STABLIZE YOUR TREE! If you’re satisfied with the general shape of your hole and with the general placement of your tree, stabilize your tree a little more to prepare for the next step. Backfill some of the dug-up soil to the bottom of the root ball and tamp it down with your feet once more until the tree feels relatively secure and in-place. The tree may move during this, so when you’re finished, triple check your work and make adjustments if necessary. 

6. REMOVE THE TWINE, TOP 1/3 OF BURLAP, AND TOP 1/3 OF WIRE CAGE. Remove the twine around the trunk, remove the top third of the burlap and remove the top third (approximately) of the wire cage. The purpose of removing these materials is to prevent damage to the trunk and buttress roots as they grow over time. Removing the twine, burlap and wire cage is the subject of much debate amongst landscape contractors, tree producers, and arborists. In an effort to be brief, my recommendation to remove the top third of the wire cage, the exposed burlap (approximately the top third), and the twine is a balance between ensuring root ball stability, new tree survivability, and planning for the long term health of the tree over the next hundred years. There may be some instances, like planting new evergreen trees in exposed/windy sites where it may be acceptable to leave the entire wire cage, burlap and twine intact for one full growing season before returning to remove it later. You will likely need some type of wire cutter or saw to remove a portion of the wire cage, so be sure to wear proper PPE including safety glasses and gloves! This step is also an annoying opportunity for the tree to shift around, so quadruple check the tree’s placement and make adjustments if necessary once you are done!  

   Optional: If you’re planting a tree in summer or drought-like conditions, I would recommend watering the hole to add moisture back into the soil. You only need to add enough water to turn the soil dark brown, avoid any pools of water. 

7. BACKFILL THE SOIL! You can use only the dug-up soil if you’d like, but you can also optionally mix in a 1:1 ratio of dug-up soil and soil amendments such as compost, manure, or topsoil. It’s your choice and the level of necessity will vary from planting site to planting site. If you want to reduce resource competition for the tree and save yourself some weeding, you can filter out any grass you find during this process. As you’re backfilling, lightly tamp the soil to remove air pockets with your hands or feet but be careful not to overly compact soil as pore space is needed for water and oxygen. You don’t want air pockets where you can hide your penny collection, but you also don’t want construction-grade compacted soil. 

8. MULCH AROUND THE TREE! Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic wood chip mulch in a circular ring around the trunk of the tree. The width can vary from options such as 1 foot wide, as wide as the dug-up grass, or as wide as the canopy drip line of the tree (the farthest point that leaves or branches extend out to). Avoid covering the root flare of the tree. The mulch should match the surrounding grade of the planting site and not be mounded up in the shape of a volcano. Mulch does a great job of retaining moisture around newly planted trees in addition to reducing competition from weeds, regulating soil temperatures, reducing soil compaction and adding nutrients to the soil. Linked is my previous ARBOR ED™ article on how to create a tree mulch ring including all of its benefits! 

9. WATER AROUND YOUR TREE! Watering a newly planted tree correctly is as important as selecting the right tree. Watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the establishment and success of planting a new tree. The best way to water a tree is slowly and deeply so that water is trickling down into the root ball of the tree and not washing away into the lawn. A newly planted balled-and-burlapped tree should be watered at the time of planting and then once a week until temperatures are consistently below freezing. Watering in this same fashion should resume when the tree breaks dormancy and leafs out the following spring. It generally takes 2 - 3 growing seasons before a balled-and-burlapped tree is established and can fend for its own water. Establishment could take longer with larger trees. For more information on watering, see my coworker, ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel’s ARBOR ED™ article on proper tree watering!  

10. PRUNE YOUR TREE! If a tree could only be pruned once in its life, pruning at planting is the time to do so. The overall goal of pruning at planting is to improve the structure of the canopy, to remove crossing and broken limbs, or to reduce/remove upright limbs that might be competing to be the central dominant leader. Note: It is equally important not to over-prune a newly planted tree, as having the appropriate amount of leaf area in the canopy next season is essential to maintaining good health and vigor. 

11. REMOVE TAGS AND ENJOY YOUR TREE! Your new tree is now planted! Enjoy it! If there are any tags on the tree and you have not already removed them, you can remove them now!  

12. OPTIONAL: PROTECT YOUR TREE! Protect your tree from mechanical damage. This step may not be necessary for every newly planted tree. If you live in an urban area without deer and have large, generous planting beds free of turf, you can likely skip this step. When planting in rural areas, TJ often recommends using some sort of deer protection to protect the trunk of trees until they have surpassed 8-10 inches in diameter. You can use a 4-foot-tall wire fencing cut into a 7-8-foot length and then then wrap it around the tree. In addition to protecting the trunk, the fencing also makes it more difficult for deer to feed on lower limbs. Trunk guards or corrugated drainpipe can also work to protect tree trunks, but they must be removed before the heat and humidity of the summer. I also recommend trunk protection for folks that have trees in areas where turf is tightly managed with large, fast-moving mowers and string trimmers. 

Video

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In Conclusion…

Now that your tree has been planted, the next, most important step will be to properly water it! Watering can vary drastically based on tree size and season. If I had to best explain it in 1 sentence, it would be to water a tree slowly through some type of drip irrigation system (such as a tree watering bag, low pressure hose, or watering bucket) in the morning or evening (to minimize evaporation) anywhere from every day to every other day (depending on the season and amount of sunlight the tree receives daily). Other maintenance recommendations that can be optional or highly recommended depending on the tree and planting site would be to create a tree mulch ring (if you have not done so already), add deer protection, and/or stake the tree! Below are articles on some of these mentioned topics!  

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Giving Away 1000 Free Trees for Arbor day 2025!

Happy early Arbor Day! Arbor Day is this Friday, April 25th, 2025, and it is a holiday to celebrate trees and encourage everyone to plant more trees!

This Arbor Day, Russell Tree Experts will be giving away 1,000 FREE tree saplings to the public! Just stop by our Westerville office or Birdie Books (Uptown Westerville) to pick up your free tree saplings! There will be various trees of different growing speeds, mature sizes, sun preferences, and notable fruits, flowers, and foliage colors to choose from:

1. Bur Oak

2. Eastern Redbud

3. Tuliptree

4. American Persimmon

5. Shagbark Hickory

6. Black Gum

ISA Certified Arborists® will be available at pick-up for any help picking out your tree and to discuss the do’s and don’ts when planting your tree(s) at home! If visiting Birdie Books, also check out their Arbor Day book collection to learn more about our favorite thing…. TREES! We’re excited to see you soon and plant happy trees!

Date:
Friday, April 25th, 2025

Time:
10:00 AM to 4:00 PM

Locations:

Russell Tree Experts: 3427 E Dublin Granville Rd, Westerville, Ohio 43081

Birdie Books: 74 N State St. Westerville, Ohio 43081

TREE PLANTING RELATED VIDEOS

10 Trees to Add Spring Color to Your Landscape!

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
April 17, 2025

Flowering trees can be a great addition to any landscape. There is an unlimited range of options to add that splash of color to your property. The list is very large so I will pick 10 of my favorites that I have planted over my 35+ year career as an ISA Certified Arborist®. Flowering trees not only add a variety of colors, but additionally fragrance and many environmental benefits to pollinators, birds, and more! The timing of the blooms can be spread over several months with proper selections. There are many options among these genera, but I will concentrate on my favorites and best performers. The trees discussed in this article will stay in the small-to-medium size range.

1. Red Buckeye

I will start with one of my personal favorites, the red buckeye. Blooming in the April to May timeframe, this tall red blossom display is hard to beat in your landscape. This ovular shaped tree will produce red upright panicles that average 4 to 8 inches in length. This will make for a great specimen tree in your yard! If you’re an Ohio State fan, they will eventually produce buckeyes as well!

Common Name: Red Buckeye

Scientific Name: Aesculus pavia

Mature Height: 10 to 20 feet

Mature Width: 10 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with red flowers

Other noteworthy characteristics: Brown buckeye nuts. Brown leaves in the fall.

2. Flowering Dogwood

Dogwoods can be one of the most popular trees in central Ohio landscapes. There are many varieties which cover a wide color spectrum, mainly whites, yellows, pinks, and even some reds. These are also trees that can have all season interest due to their bark character, showy fruit, and vibrant fall color display. Cornelian cherry dogwood will be one of the first trees to bloom in the spring with small yellow flowers, but the species I prefer is flowering dogwood with its white spring bracts.

Common Name: Flowering Dogwood

Scientific Name: Cornus florida

Mature Height: 15 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 30 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves in the spring with white flowers.

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Red to purple fall color. Persistent red fruit in the winter.

3. Okame Cherry

Another of my favorite early flowering trees would be the Okame cherry. This tree typically blooms in March with vibrant pink flowers. This too is a compact tree that should stay under 25 feet tall. This tree was made famous with its display in Washington DC. It has a mild fragrance and attracts many pollinators.

Common Name: Okame Cherry

Scientific Name: Prunus x okame

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Pink flowers

4. Allegheny Serviceberry

Another tree with all season appeal would be the serviceberry. There are a few species and many cultivated varieties of serviceberry, but I prefer the Allegheny serviceberry. It produces early spring white flowers followed by edible fruit and finally, brilliant fall color!

Common Name: Allegheny Serviceberry

Scientific Name: Amelanchier laevis

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with white flowers

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Reddish orange fall color

5. PRAIRIFIRE CRABAPPLE

The crabapple is another longtime favorite among central Ohio landscapes. There are more varieties than I can count so I will just list a few of my favorites. If you are looking for white flowers, you cannot go wrong with Adirondack. My favorite pink choice would be prairiefire, with strawberry parfait coming in a close second.

Common Name: Prairifire Crabapple

Scientific Name: Malus x ‘Prairifire’

Mature Height: 15 to 20 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 20 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Spring maroon leaves with pink flowers

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Green leaves with red veins in the summer, bronze leaves in the fall

6. Saucer Magnolia

Next on my list are magnolias. Once again, there are too many varieties to list, but the longtime favorites are the saucer magnolia, which has pink flowers, and the star magnolia which has white flowers. The saucer magnolia typically blooms around late March to early April and puts on quite the show! If you are looking for fragrance, make sure you add a sweetbay magnolia to your landscape!

Common Name: Saucer Magnolia

Scientific Name: Magnolia x soulangeana

Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 25 to 30 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves with pink flowers

7. Eastern Redbud

Another early blooming favorite that is being produced with several new cultivated varieties is the eastern redbud! They are being developed with a variety of leaf colors, variation in bloom color, and growth habit as well, such as weeping. A classic selection that you cannot go wrong with is the straight species of eastern redbud with its beautiful pinkish purple flowers in the spring! This is the early flowering tree that is often seen along the edge of the woods in natural areas as well as in many landscapes. It flowers at a similar time as magnolia trees but is less likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures and Ohio’s wishy-washy weather.

Common Name: Eastern Redbud

Scientific Name: Cercis canadensis

Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 25 to 35 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Dark green heart-shaped leaves with pinkish purple leaves

8. Washington Hawthorn

One of the later bloomers in the spring would be the Washington Hawthorn. This is another tree that can have all season interest with the white flowers, fragrance, red fruit, and fall color, making this a great selection for your landscape. Its abundant red fruit supports many pollinators, birds, and more!

Common Name: Washington Hawthorn

Scientific Name: Crataegus phaenopyrum

Mature Height: 25 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves, white flowers, and red fruit

Other noteworthy characteristics: Orange and scarlet leaves in the fall

9. IVORY SILK JAPANESE TREE LILAC

Next on this list is the ivory silk tree lilac. This is a plant that produces a creamy/white plume, usually long after other trees have bloomed.

Common Name: Ivory Silk Japanese Tree Lilac

Scientific Name: Syringa reticulata

Mature Height: 20 to 30 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Dark green leaves with creamy white plumes

Other Noteworthy Characteristics: Golden to bronze fall color. Cherry-like bark that is attractive in the winter.

10. American Witch Hazel

Last (or first) on this list is witch hazel! Some witch hazels bloom in early spring such as Jelena and vernal witch hazel, but a personal favorite (and classic) is the American witch hazel. This plant blooms in the fall with beautiful yellow color that persists into winter, sometimes up to early spring.

Common Name: American Witch hazel

Scientific Name: Hamamelis virginiana

Mature Height: 15 to 25 feet

Mature Width: 15 to 25 feet

Sun Preference: Partial to Full Sun

Spring Foliage Color: Green leaves that turn yellow in the fall and winter

This is just a small list of trees that could add a splash of color to your landscape. With a little research and planning, you can have color, fragrance, fruit, and other interesting characteristics throughout the year! Choose wisely and plan for the mature size of your plants when making selections and picking planting locations.

Please review our other articles on planting, mulching, watering, and other related topics before adding additional trees to your landscape in the coming year. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak with our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in September 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

The Forest Pansy Redbud!

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
April 10, 2025

Forest pansy redbud leaves in the spring

In our Ohio landscapes, we have several common options for planting trees that reach a small-to-medium size in maturity, including magnolias, crabapples, cherries and Japanese maples. Another tree that fits that size category and is commonly found in many landscapes is the eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). Redbuds are known for their beautiful display of flowers in the early spring, typically before leaves fully emerge. But while the flowers grab our attention, the foliage could be considered fairly typical and undistinguished. One variety of redbud that can stand out for both its flowers and foliage is the forest pansy redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’)! Let's take a closer look at this tree and why it might be a great option for your landscape!

Forest pansy redbud leaves in the fall

The forest pansy redbud is a cultivar (cultivated variety) of eastern redbud. Cultivars, incredibly common among many of our landscape plants from trees to shrubs to perennials, are versions of plants that are not commonly found in nature. This can be a different color of flower, variegated foliage, lack of fruit production, difference in shape or habit, or many other characteristics. In the case of the forest pansy redbud, the striking difference from the normal species is the foliage color. The forest pansy redbud’s leaves emerge in the spring with a purple to burgundy color. As summer approaches and the foliage matures, the color of the leaves can deepen to a dark reddish-purple. In autumn, as the color pigments of the foliage break down, rich yellows and golds appear and contribute to the beauty of the transitioning landscape. As with the normal species of eastern redbud, the forest pansy cultivar also has the much loved clusters of pinkish flowers that emerge directly from the stems prior to the leaves emerging in spring, giving us an early display of color when many other plants still appear to be dormant.

Forest pansy redbud flowers in the spring

Forest pansy redbuds are hardy in USDA zones 5-9, making them a good choice for Ohio. They are generally tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions, but like most trees, prefer some initial amending of the soil if needed for proper soil pH, nutrients, and drainage, as well as ongoing addition of leaf compost or supplemental fertilization for optimal growth. The red pigments in the leaves will be deeper and richer with ample sunlight, so while the tree can tolerate a semi-wooded or shadier setting, substantial shade can create leaves that take on more of a green appearance (as a fun side note - this correlation between sunlight and richness of color generally applies to most plants with variegated or colored foliage!).

Forest pansy redbud info card at Oakland Nursery

The forest pansy redbud is typically free of pests and diseases when properly planted and located in the landscape. It has a mature height of 20 to 25 feet and a mature crown spread of 15 to 20 feet. This makes it a good candidate for planting in front and backyards, where it can grow large enough to provide some shade to a front walkway, south facing window, or backyard patio, but stays small enough to not overtake a home or outcompete adjacent lawn areas or landscape beds for sunlight and water. Because of its striking foliage throughout the growing season, it makes a wonderful specimen tree or focal point in the landscape when planted singly, rather than in groupings.

The forest pansy redbud tree can be a great option for your landscape if you’re looking for a medium sized tree that’s tolerant of a wide range of conditions. As always, proper planting is essential for the long term health and success of any tree. Contact us if you need any guidance, referrals, or recommendations for proper tree planting, including species selection, location, and site requirements. And as always, for a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speak to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

How to Protect Trees Before, During, & After Heavy Construction!

By Cody Gray
January 23, 2025

What is soil compaction and how can this affect the trees growing on your property? In this article we are going to cover the “do’s” and “don’ts” during the construction process to avoid soil compaction on the property. We’ll also be peeking into soil science as well as ways to regain healthy soil composition.  

Soil compaction is caused when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space. Think of this like making a snowball - as you take a scoop of snow and press it together, it becomes hard and dense. The previously light and fluffy snow is now firm and sheds water. The same phenomenon is true with soil. As these particles are pressed together, air and water become scarce. With reduced pore space, water infiltration is much slower, and drainage becomes increasingly poor and insufficient. In addition to the soil’s inability to move and drain water, the exchange of gases is slowed down significantly. In poorly drained soils, the composition can turn hard and arid, causing a tree’s penetrating roots to struggle in seeking water.  

Compacted Soil

Porous Soil

Wooded lots offer extremely beautiful home sites. However, if approached improperly from start to finish, what could have been a serene place to kick your feet up at the end of a long day can slowly turn into a hazardous environment full of dead and declining trees. It’s no secret that heavy equipment is used to clear plots of land for both residential and commercial purposes. These pieces of equipment are often heavy and can cause substantial damage to the soil composition when extra care is not taken. However, there are ways to protect the trees you desire to keep if you are aware of some basic tree biology. In terms of spread, a tree’s roots mostly occupy the canopy drip line of a tree. The canopy drip line of a tree is the outermost circumference of the tree’s canopy in relation to the ground. A tree’s roots occupy this entire area and often extend two to four times the radius of the drip line. In terms of depth, most tree roots can be found in the first six to twenty-four inches of soil. This is important to know because this is where long-term root damage can occur if proper preventative measures are not taken. 

A video example of a land clearing project for a new construction home. Heavy equipment was used and soil was likely compacted.

When selecting the building site, it is important to choose an area as far away from the preserved trees as possible. However, at times this may not be possible due to the lot layout, construction needs, etc. There are ways to improve the likelihood of saving these trees inside of the construction zone. Setting up a tree protection zone can be accomplished by protecting the drip edge of the tree you plan to save. The idea is to minimize or prevent any travel of heavy equipment over this area to protect the tree’s valuable roots. One of the most effective ways to protect this precious area is by using T-posts, zip ties and a few rolls of orange barrier fence often referred to as a “snow fence”. The first step in this process is to walk out and mark the approximate drip edge of the tree. You can use orange marking paint on the ground if this helps. Next you will need to drive a T-post every four to five feet around the circumference of the drip line. Once you have traced the entire drip line of the tree, you will begin stringing your orange barrier fence and zip-tying it to your T-posts. This process is simple yet effective for keeping people as well as machines away from the root zone. Additionally, this will help limit the potential for damage to the trunk of the tree. If access is an issue and you are unable to successfully barricade the drip edge of the tree, another option is to use some sort of matting. This can be done with many different products. The simplest form of matting is plywood but whatever solution you use, this significantly reduces ground pressure, which reduces the effects of soil compaction.  

Tree Protection Zone!

Following the construction process, it is important to do a final walkthrough to determine if the grade has been changed. Any excess fill that may have been added inside of a tree’s canopy drip line should be minimized or avoided completely. A very small amount of fill used to fill in tiny divots or to lightly level the lawn is okay and unlikely to cause serious damage. A significant amount of excess fill or grade change can cause reduced oxygen and water infiltration for a tree's roots. A tell-tale sign is soil buildup around the root flare of the tree trunk. You can also take before-and-after photos and compare. If excess soil is present, it is important to remove it as soon as possible. The effects of soil compaction are not immediately noticed and often take months or years before it becomes apparent that something may be wrong. Unfortunately, by the time you notice that a tree is in decline, it is likely too late. Some key characteristics to look for include loss of leaves and premature leaf discoloration during the summer months as well as dead and decaying branches. It is not uncommon for one of our ISA Certified Arborists® to inspect a property containing a declining tree due to construction or renovation that occurred months or years in the past. Oftentimes this is discovered through a quick conversation with the property owner or when observing soil that is either compacted or covering a tree trunk’s root flare. 

There are ways to improve soil composition following compaction if it is caught quickly. One of the most effective ways is by using an air-spade. An air spade is a tool that uses compressed air to loosen the soil around the tree’s roots. An arborist will push the tool into the ground around the tree’s root system and force air into the compressed soil, causing the pore space to increase. This is a non-invasive way to expose the roots to much needed water, oxygen, and nutrients. Another simple yet effective way to help with previous soil compaction is to mulch a tree. Removing 2 to 4 inches below ground level and backfilling with porous mulch can minimize the impact of soil compaction. There are also many benefits to mulching beyond just increased pore space.  

Porous (Left) vs. Compacted (Right)

In conclusion, remember to pick a building site that requires as little tree removal as possible. If there is a tree that is in question, it is much easier to remove the tree prior to construction and it will often cost less to do so. Complete a walkthrough with your contractors, express your concerns for the trees you plan on saving, and be certain to create your tree protection zone(s). This will take a little time in the beginning of the project but can end up saving thousands of dollars over the years to come. If you follow these steps and still end up with some soil compaction, don’t fret as there are still options. Reach out to your local arborists and inquire about air spading, tree mulch ring installations, frequent watering, or other plant healthcare options that might be recommended after an inspection. I can assure you that if you take the time in the early stages of the land clearing and construction process, the survival rate of your trees will increase significantly. If you are interested in a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Cody Gray I Senior Division Supervisor, Russell Tree Experts

Cody Gray is our Environmental Division Senior Division Supervisor and has been at RTE since 2016. He has worked around trees since 2013. He graduated from Hocking College with a major in forestry and is certified with aerial rescue, EHAT, first aid, CPR, and OSHA30. In his free time, Cody is an avid outdoorsman and enjoys spending time with his family. His favorite tree is the white oak because of their exceptional durability, beautiful grain patterns, and longevity.

It’s Easy as G-D-D (Growing Degree Days)

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
January 9, 2025

If you are a client of Russell Tree Experts and have us care for your trees, you’ve likely heard us use the term “growing degree day” or GDD. The concept of a growing degree day is basically how many units of heat have been accumulated within a 24-hour period. Any day with a mean temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperature) over the “threshold temperature” of 50 degrees, growing degree days are accumulated. A threshold temperature is a temperature at which a specific plant or insect can progress in its development or life cycle. Different organisms have different base temperatures; however, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered acceptable for all plants and insects.

Calculating growing degree days can be complex to varying degrees. The simplest method is to subtract the base temperature from the mean temperature for the day and then add it to the previous day's growing degree day total.

Example:

It is April 11th. The average temperature is 61 degrees. Yesterday, the running total of GDD was 214. Subtracting the base temperature of 50 from the mean temperature of 61 degrees, we would arrive at 11 degrees. We would add that to yesterday's running total (214+11), and today’s current GDD is 225.

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What information can we learn from knowing the growing degree day? Plant experts and entomologists have observed that the accumulation of heat causes development to proceed. For any given insect, its eggs will hatch, or an adult will emerge at precisely the same growing degree day every year. The date can vary from year to year since the temperature is not the same every day of the year. Below is a graphic of the growing degree day on the same date, April 11th, for the past fourteen years.

(https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/summary.asp):  

Since we know that plants and insects do the same thing on the same approximate GDD every year (not necessarily on the same date), we also know when to apply certain treatments for optimal effectiveness. Additionally, we can use plants as a “phenological indicator” to understand when certain insects will be active. Using our example of April 11th and GDD of 225, Serviceberry (GDD 219) and Common Chokecherry (GDD 221) should both be in full bloom. Various adult leafminers will also be emerging around this time (birch leafminer – GDD 215, elm leafminer – GDD 219, alder leafminer – GDD 224).

Some people have even taken it further and planted phenological gardens! Farmers have used this practice for centuries to know when to plant certain crops and vegetables and when to look for specific pests. Here are a few rules of thumb:

• Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms

• Plant peas when forsythia blooms

• Plant radishes and spinach when crocus is in bloom

• Plant carrots and beets when daffodils bloom

• Plant bush beans when apple trees bloom

• Plant annual flowers and squashes when lilacs are in full bloom

These were developed as a way of measuring growing degree days before the formal calculation of growing degree days existed, but they achieved similar results.

Entomologists work hard daily to figure out the growing degree day of certain active insects and pests to improve “best practices” observed in horticulture and arboriculture. One insect we are watching closely is the nitidulid beetle. These beetles have been known to carry a fungus that causes oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease of oak trees. As we learn more about these beetles, we can implement more effective management practices to ensure the safety of everyone’s oak trees! For now, we go off of the best information available to us. You can learn more how Russell Tree Experts handles oak wilt by reading here!

I am proud to be part of the arboriculture industry. The industry is very receptive to better and new information as knowledge is developed and discovered. The world is evolving and I’m happy that Russell Tree Experts prides itself on keeping up with the times and staying well-informed on essential tree issues. As we learn more, we will share with you all as well. As always, thank you for your time, and I hope you all do your best to be a tree advocate in your community. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ON GROWING DEGREE DAYS

The Ohio State University: https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/glossary.asp

Smithsonian Gardens: https://gardens.si.edu/learn/blog/gardening-guided-by-phenology/

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A

Call OUPS So You Don't... Oops!!

By Joe Gabrielse
December 19, 2024

Are you about to start digging in your yard for a project such as to plant a tree or to grind out a tree stump? Before you begin, it's vital to prioritize safety by taking the necessary precautions to protect yourself and underground utility lines. One key step you should never overlook is calling the Ohio Utilities Protection Service, commonly known as OUPS. 

An example of a gas line marked in yellow.

811 is the national hotline for "Call Before You Dig," allowing homeowners and professionals to request free marking of underground utility lines. By calling 811 prior to digging, you can prevent accidental damage to vital utility lines like gas, electric, water, sewage, and telecommunications. Examples of digging projects where you can benefit from calling OUPS are planting a tree, grinding a stump, digging a new flower bed, putting in a new shed, laying a new driveway, installing a post for a new mailbox, building a retaining wall, and more. If you are utilizing Russell Tree Experts to care for your trees and digging is required such as in the case of stump grinding, we will take care of this process for you and call OUPS ahead of time!

Upon dialing 811, you will be connected to a local center. A representative will gather details about your digging project, such as location and depth of excavation. The center will then inform relevant utility companies who will then dispatch technicians to mark their underground lines with flags, paint, or both. In some cases, you will also receive an email with a summary containing a birds-eye view of the property with color coded markers as to where any lines may be located.

Advantages of Contacting 811 Before Digging

The blue oval indicates the location of a gas line that we need to be extra precautious around.

There are numerous benefits to calling 811 before digging, such as the following:

1. Compliance with Regulations. Many states mandate calling 811 to prevent harm to underground infrastructure.

2. Peace of Mind. Taking necessary safety precautions can provide peace of mind throughout your digging project and minimize the chances of stress and headaches.

3. Financial Savings. Preventing damage to utility lines can save you from costly repair expenses.

4. Enhanced Safety. Marking utility lines helps prevent potentially hazardous incidents.

Depending on the particular tree, a stump could be ground anywhere from approximately 4 to 16 inches below ground level.

Proceeding with digging without calling 811 can lead to severe outcomes. Accidentally striking a buried utility line can disrupt your project and result in headaches, expensive repairs, injuries, or even fatalities. Avoiding these dangers is as straightforward as dialing 811 before you commence digging. It’s free! 

One detail to be cautious of is that privately installed lines or pipes might not be reported to OUPS, therefore leading to those lines being left unmarked. It would be up to you to mark or be made aware of to prevent damage to said unmarked lines. Examples of unmarked lines could be an electrical line to an exterior light post, irrigation lines, and invisible dog fences.

At Russell Tree Experts, we utilize OUPS quite literally every single day. Whenever a customer requests stump grinding services, our stump grinders call OUPS a few days ahead of time so that way our machines can focus on the stump and avoid damaging any lines. 

Russell Tree Experts offers stump grinding services. Before any stump is ground, we call OUPS to mark any nearby lines that could pose an issue.

For larger tree work projects such as on federal and state property or along highways and powerlines, we contact OUPS to request any and all lines to be marked. Whenever we are using heavier equipment such as CMIs, ASVs, or Bobcats, we are sometimes asked to provide specifications such as gross vehicle weight, track width, lengths of tracks on the ground, and distance between tracks to ensure that there is no risk of damage to underground lines even during movement of our machines. Some pipes and lines can be located 18 to 24 inches below ground level. With a machine that weighs 85,000 pounds, even just driving 2 feet above the line’s location could cause damage. If the pipe is unavoidable and a piece of equipment must cross its location, we build an “air bridge” using timber mats to cross the line safely and to eliminate the risk of damage. When a line is avoidable and no tree work or equipment needs to occur nearby, we still like to have the line marked and we will set a minimum approach distance such as 50 feet so that way our crew members know not to come anywhere close to the line’s location.

A balled-and-burlapped tree can require a lot of digging in order for it to be properly planted.

The examples above may not be relatable to you from day-to-day on your private property, but tree planting can! According to the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide, a saucer shaped planting hole two to three times the width of the root ball is recommended for optimal tree planting. The depth of said hole is going to be approximately the height of the root ball, which could be upwards of two to three feet tall for a large balled-and-burlapped tree. This area is definitely deep and wide enough to where the risk of damaging a line could be high. A simple and free 811 call to OUPS could provide you the peace of mind of planting your tree with no risk (not including privately unmarked lines)!

In conclusion, calling 811 before digging is a simple yet critical measure to ensure the safety of your excavation work. Making this call can help prevent accidents, legal complications, and unnecessary expenses. Remember that safety is paramount, so don't forget to contact 811 before picking up that shovel. Be safe and happy digging!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Joe Gabrielse I Administrative Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Joe joined Russell Tree Experts in 2022 with a background in dispatching of commercial vehicles and project management. He enjoys spending time with friends and family, attending different sporting events, traveling, car shows, sports collectibles shows and video games.

The Sugar Maple

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 12, 2024​

The sugar maple tree (Acer saccharum) is one of my favorite trees and a beloved symbol of North American forests, renowned for its beauty and many uses. It is native across southern Canada, the midwest, and the northeastern US states. Known for its vibrant autumn colors, sweet sap, and high-quality timber, the sugar maple plays an essential role in the natural landscape, urban forest, economy, and cultural heritage of the northeastern United States.

The sugar maple tree grows best in hardiness zones 3 through 8. It has a slow-to-medium growth speed and will grow to a mature height of 60 to 75 feet with a mature width of 40 to 50 feet. Sugar maple trees grow well in well-drained soil and in partial sun, but will perform best in full sun conditions.

The sugar maple is one of the most visually captivating trees, especially during the fall when its leaves turn to brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Each autumn, forests, yards, and parks where sugar maples grow become vibrant canvases of color. Beyond its autumn display, the sugar maple brings beauty throughout the year. In spring, delicate clusters of yellow-green flowers bloom, signaling the arrival of warmer weather. By summer, the tree’s broad canopy offers cool, welcoming shade, making it a favorite in parks along streets and in backyards. Even in winter, when its branches are bare, the sugar maple’s ovular architecture is a beautiful sight.

The sugar maples in my backyard are a constant source of joy to my family and me; my kids often collect the autumn leaves and we all appreciate the cool shade it provides during hot summer afternoons where we play with our dog.

The sugar maple’s value extends far beyond its visual appeal. It is also a tree of exceptional utility, benefiting industries and ecosystems. The sugar maple is the lifeblood of the maple syrup industry, which is both economically and culturally significant. In early spring, when temperatures fluctuate between freezing at night and above freezing during the day, sap begins to flow within the tree. This sap is collected through taps and boiled down to produce pure maple syrup. It takes about 40 gallons of sap to produce just one gallon of syrup, making the process both labor-intensive and rewarding. Sharing the resulting syrup with my family is a tradition whether drizzled on pancakes or used to sweeten a good recipe. I like to mix two tablespoons of maple syrup with a teaspoon of dijon mustard, ¼ teaspoon of dried thyme, and 1 clove of garlic, minced, for an excellent glaze on chicken or ham.

Sugar maple is also valuable for its timber. Known as "hard maple," its wood is highly durable with a dense grain that makes it resistant to wear. This strength makes sugar maple wood a popular choice for furniture, cabinetry, and flooring. It is especially favored for high-traffic areas such as gymnasiums and basketball courts where durability is crucial.

In addition to its strength, sugar maple wood is renowned for its beauty. Patterns like "curly" and "birdseye" maple — unique grain formations that resemble ripples or tiny eyes — are highly sought after by woodworkers. Musical instruments including violins, guitars, and pianos, are often crafted from maple wood due to its aesthetic appeal and due to the wood’s density enhancing sound quality.

Birdseye Maple Wood Pattern

Curly Maple Wood Pattern

The sugar maple also contributes to the health of ecosystems in numerous ways. Its dense canopy provides shelter for birds, mammals, and insects, while its seeds and buds serve as food for creatures such as squirrels and deer. In autumn, when the tree drops its leaves, the organic matter enriches the soil, promoting healthy plant growth.

Note the fall foliage containing greens, reds, oranges, and yellows!

The tree also plays a critical role in water regulation as its roots absorb rainfall and reduce runoff, helping to prevent flooding. Forests dominated by sugar maple trees stabilize soil and prevent erosion, especially on slopes and riverbanks. The tree’s ability to thrive in well-drained, fertile soils makes it a reliable indicator of a healthy forest.

While sugar maple is a great tree for aesthetics and practicality, it is now facing significant threats due to changing weather patterns and climate shifts. The species thrives in cool climates with predictable seasons and the recent shift in temperatures, along with changes in precipitation, is making it harder for sugar maple trees to survive and reproduce in many areas. Sugar maple trees require cold winters to produce sap. The ideal conditions for sap flow — freezing nights followed by warmer days — are becoming less consistent as winters grow shorter and warmer. Without these precise temperature swings, sap production is also decreasing, directly impacting the maple syrup industry. 

Rising temperatures are also forcing the sugar maple’s growing range to shift northward. Areas that were once ideal habitats for the tree are becoming too warm or dry, while colder regions farther north are now better suited to support new growth. This gradual shift threatens the cultural and economic identity of communities that have long relied on sugar maple forests. Scientists predict that if current trends continue, sugar maple trees may disappear from parts of their southern range, such as Ohio, Pennsylvania and New Jersey, within the next century.

Additionally, the increase in frequency and intensity of droughts have been particularly damaging to sugar maple. While the tree prefers moist, well-drained soils, extended periods of drought weaken its root system and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Invasive pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and certain fungi have expanded their range into sugar maple forests. These pests can cause severe damage (and often tree death), weakening the trees and making them more vulnerable to environmental stresses. Fortunately, the Asian longhorned beetle has not been found in central Ohio, highlighting the importance of maintaining strict quarantine zones and monitoring programs. Preventing its spread is crucial to protecting the region’s sugar maples (as well as several additional native genera) and the ecosystems and industries they support.

Russell Tree Experts offers a range of tree services to help preserve your sugar maple trees, including health assessments to identify stress factors, pest and disease management to help mitigate threats, and soil care programs to improve root resilience. With expert pruning, deep-root fertilization, and a detailed plan, we can attempt to mitigate these challenges. For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

The Persian Parrotia

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 19, 2024​

A Persian parrotia tree (Parrotia persica)

For a variety of reasons, there are certain trees that never seem to get the attention and use they deserve in our Ohio landscapes. The Persian parrotia is one of those trees. The landscape industry tends to rely heavily on a narrow variety of tree species and the Persian parrotia is often overlooked when considering planting options for the landscape. Let’s shed some light on this beautiful, adaptable, and underutilized option.

The Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica), also sometimes known as the Persian ironwood, is a deciduous tree native to a small range of temperate forests in the Middle East. It can grow up to around 30 feet in height with a mature width of 15 to 30 feet. The crown’s shape is generally round or ovular and you may encounter trees grown with either single or multiple stems. The mature size of this tree alone makes it a noteworthy species as this medium size at maturity is often hard to come by and is typically satisfied with trees like river birch or linden. The former often has major health issues with central Ohio’s urban soils. Parrotias tend to be tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions once established, making them a good choice for residential, commercial, and municipal landscapes. Consideration should still be given to location on any property with regard to overhead wires as a 30 foot tree may still be tall enough to interfere with these utilities.

Fall color of Persian parrotia. Note the ~4 different colors of its leaves!

In addition to a desirable size as an accent or shade tree in the landscape, parrotias feature attractive dark green foliage with a gentle serration along the leaf margin. Avid gardeners and tree enthusiasts may find that parrotia foliage resembles that of witch hazel and fothergilla. This is because all three of these species belong to the witch-hazel family (Hamamelidaceae). Fall color is among the best you can find, with blends of yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds that almost seem to glow at the peak of fall foliage season. After the leaves drop, the tree continues to provide winter interest with a beautifully smooth and mottled bark, not unlike the mature bark of crape myrtle or lacebark pine. Flowering in central Ohio occurs in late winter and is not particularly showy. Parrotias are cold hardy to zone 4 (5a), making it a great match for central Ohio winter temperatures.

When planting a parrotia, the selected site should receive full sun to partial shade. Even though the species is tolerant of a variety of soil conditions, including soil pH and somewhat poor soil structure, the site should be well drained and not prone to standing water. With proper location to accommodate its future mature size, correct planting methods, and aftercare, parrotias can be healthy and beautiful additions to an Ohio landscape for several or more decades. Best of all, they are readily found at Ohio plant nurseries and garden centers, making them a tree species that you shouldn’t have to go too far to find! Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Pawpaw Cream Pie and I

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
November 7, 2024​

When it comes to trees, I’ve got lots of favorites. I have a favorite deciduous tree - the Persian parrotia. My favorite evergreen tree is the lacebark pine. My favorite tree for fall color is the black tupelo. I even have a favorite smelling tree - the concolor fir (I love that the crushed needles smell like oranges). Today, I’m writing about my favorite native, edible fruit tree, the pawpaw! Keep reading if you like pie.

A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) in the fall!

If you’re not hip to pawpaws already, the next paragraph is required reading. If you have pawpaw trees in your landscape currently, have ever attended the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, have a pawpaw cookbook, own an article of clothing with a pawpaw printed on it, or have a pawpaw bumper sticker on your car, you can jump ahead to the pie.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), sometimes called custard apple, is a hardy and adaptable small tree, generally growing 15 - 25’ in height in the landscape, with a dense pyramidal shaped canopy (when grown in full sun). The leaves hang downward at an angle and give the tree a somewhat tropical appearance. The fall color of the leaves is a nice golden yellow. Maroon to purple flowers come out mid-spring and are pollinated by flies. Interesting side note: Some of the old timers I know hang meat in their pawpaw trees at the time of flowering to increase pollination as the meat attracts more flies. Pawpaw flowers give way to small fruits, 3 - 6” in length that somewhat resemble a banana and often form in clumps of 3 to 5. Depending on the tree, the fruit can ripen anywhere between late August and early October. Additional side notes: The pawpaw fruit is the largest fruit native to North America and the pawpaw tree is the host plant for the caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly. Good stuff!

Pawpaw fruit! Quarter for scale.

Pawpaw fruit is one of my favorite things to look forward to every year (up there with spring flowers and fall color). The fruit tastes similar to a banana, mango, pear but with more of a custard-like consistency. FYI, the fruit can often contain many large, lima bean-sized seeds, especially with wild picked fruit. The fruit also has a short shelf life, often lasting only a few days after ripening, which is why you don’t see pawpaws at Costco.

Several cultivated varieties of pawpaw exist now that have been selected for longer lasting and  larger fruit with less seeds. I personally recommend ‘Prolific,’ ‘Wells,’ and ‘Sweet Alice.’ These cultivated varieties can be difficult to source, but not impossible. Check in with the folks at Dannaher Landscaping in Galena who generally have several different varieties of pawpaw trees on hand. These are good friends of mine.

Collecting wild fruit is also cool and another reason to go out into the woods. In central Ohio, I typically find pawpaw trees growing naturally near the banks of Walnut Creek, Alum Creek, the Scioto River, the Olentangy River, and throughout wooded flood plains where it often develops a more open and leggy appearance. Near my office in Westerville, along the Alum Creek bike path, I have observed several pawpaw trees in excess of 30’ in height with decent fruit production. We’re getting closer to the part about pie.

Dad removing seeds from the pulp of a pawpaw with precision.

I first discovered pawpaw trees by accident while my brother and I were canoeing a multi-day trip down the Scioto River late summer 2006. We kept noticing the fruit reaching out over the river from Columbus to Portsmouth and we decided to bring some back home to our father. We really didn’t know what we had, but Dad figured out they were pawpaws and decided to save the seeds, which started some of our original trees. My brother and I have followed different paths growing up, but we both have become professional ISA Certified Arborists® and I think somehow it started with the power of the pawpaw. Almost pie time.

Since 2006, I have eaten pawpaw every which way. At the risk of sounding like Forrest Gump, I’ve had pawpaw ice cream, pawpaw candy, pawpaw beer, pawpaw bread, pawpaw salsa, deep fried pawpaw on a stick and everything pawpaw in between. Dad even invented the pawtini (a martini with a toothpick holding a slice of frozen pawpaw). Until recently, my preference for pawpaw provisions was just eating the pulp straight out of the skin with a spoon. If I’m feeling fancy, I might even chill the fruit first, cut it in half, and cover it with homemade whipping cream for an excellent dessert.

A couple of years ago a colleague sent me a recipe for pawpaw cream pie and it blew my mind! (Yes, it is now pie time.) I’ve been experimenting with different levels and ingredients ever since and today I present to you my final draft!  

T.J.’s Pawpaw Cream Pie Recipe

• ½ cup of sugar

• ⅓ cup of flour 

• 3 egg yolks, beaten (save the whites for the meringue topping)

• 3 egg whites

• 1 cup of milk

• 1 cup of heavy cream

• 1 cup of pureed pawpaw pulp

• 3 tbsp. of sugar

• 1 pinch of salt

• 1 baked 9-inch pastry shell

• Optional: ⅓ - ½ cup of chopped walnuts

Start by combining the sugar and flour. Add the beaten egg yolks, milk and cream. Mix well and add the pawpaw pulp and walnuts. The walnuts are not essential to the recipe but add some additional flavor and texture. Cook and stir constantly over a low heat until the mixture thickens. Let cool and then pour mixture into a baked pastry shell and cover with meringue. Make a meringue by beating the 3 left over egg whites stiff with 3 tbsp. of sugar and a pinch of salt. Bake at 350 degrees F for 12 - 15 minutes until meringue is browned.

I also make a true cream pie version of this pie following the same recipe except ditching the 3 egg whites and baking the custard and then adding homemade whipping cream to the top after the filling has cooled.   A simple and delicious recipe for whipping cream is to mix a half pint container of heavy whipping cream with ¼ cup of sugar and 1 teaspoon of vanilla.

Both of these versions are outstanding. If you like banana cream pie, you are going to love this recipe. I’m partial to the true cream pie version but full disclosure, most of my taste testing buddies prefer the meringue.

This recipe is a great way to use up several pawpaws at once as I often end up with fruit faster than I can eat it. Pawpaw is an underutilized tree in the landscape and I’m hoping that delicious pie will encourage you to plant one; although fruit production is better with two. Pawpaw is an easy tree to grow (I haven’t killed one yet) and it has no significant insect or disease problems. This tree will grow happily in a wide range of environments and tolerate some of the most challenging sites and conditions. I hope you can find a way to incorporate this great native tree into your landscape and I encourage you to share any pawpaw recipes, experiences or questions you might have with us at the bottom of this article. Look forward to hearing from you!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Mulch Volcanoes & The Hidden Dangers

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
October 23, 2024

The kwanzan cherry tree in question.

Recently, I was talking to one of my neighbors about typical home and outdoor activities, which sparked the conversation about the kwanzan cherry tree in my front yard. He let me know that it was mulched incorrectly, which caught me off-guard seeing as I took mulching advice from my coworkers Lindsey, an ISA Certified Arborist®, and TJ, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. I kept an open mind and asked him what was wrong and he informed me that it’s best to form a volcano-like shape up towards the trunk of the tree so that way the tree will absorb more water and to increase curb appeal. For him, since it looks more intentional and less natural, it shows that someone is caring for the tree. I communicated to him that multiple coworkers as well as the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide have conflicting information. He said he’s been doing it this way for decades and everything has been fine, completely ignoring the fact that his 50-60 foot tall sugar maple tree was removed due to heavy decay at the base of the tree. We agreed to disagree and went on with our days. Now, I’m not saying mulch volcanoes will cause your tree to decay and be removed, but I am saying that it is detrimental to a tree’s health and that this method of mulching needs to be addressed, stopped, and changed.

A mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed trunk flare and the mulch exceeding the height of the surrounding grade.

So what is a mulch volcano? A mulch volcano, also sometimes known as a mulch mound, mulch pyramid, or a mulch shield, is a circular volcano-shaped pile of mulch above ground level formed up to the trunk of a tree. Mulch volcanoes are created with good intention as tree mulching adds nutrients to the soil, aids in water retention, helps the tree outcompete other plants for resources, protects the tree from trunk damage by lawn mowers and string trimmers, minimizes soil compaction, and increases curb appeal. However, all of the aforementioned benefits apply only to properly mulched trees and mulch volcanoes are an improper form of mulching that eliminates most of these benefits. Most of the time, the person applying mulch to the tree does not even know about this incorrect practice. So if you have ever created a mulch volcano, know that I am not upset or mad. My goal is to educate and discuss the harms of mulch volcanoes and the proper ways to mulch a tree.

An example of stem girdling roots.

Limited Oxygen and Stem Girdling Roots

Mulch volcanoes bury the roots of a tree and simulate it being planted too deeply. This limits the availability of oxygen and water which can cause stem girdling roots, roots that wrap around the trunk of the tree in search of oxygen and nutrients and inevitably “choke” the tree. Stem girdling roots can lead to dieback, stunted growth, and delayed or shrunken leaves popping out in the spring. This can be treated via root collar excavation.

Limited Water

For a mulch volcano with compacted mulch, less water is actually retained and runs off to the bottom perimeter of the mulch. This results in less water availability for the tree as it may run off elsewhere on the property or be absorbed by grass and other plants instead of by the tree.

Excess Water and Bacteria

For better or for worse, mulch is great at retaining water. In the case of mulch volcanoes with porous mulch, this is bad because water can sit and dampen the trunk. Sitting water is bad for a tree because it can carry bacteria that can lead to disease.

Soil pH

Overmulching in this fashion may also limit nitrogen availability and detrimentally alter the soil’s pH. A change in pH outside the ideal range for the tree can lead to nutrient deficiency, chlorosis, stunted growth, defoliation, dieback, or even worse, the death of a tree.

Another mulch volcano. Note the tip dieback on the right side that could be a result of the mulch volcano. An in-depth inspection would be needed for confirmation.

Rodents

When mulch is piled high, it may be enticing to rodents as a form of shelter and concealment. They have also been observed to feed on the lower stems and bark of trees, leaving open wounds that could invite decay, disease, and pests. 

Aesthetics

Mulch volcanoes can make a trained eye who knows proper mulching practices cringe similar to nails on a chalkboard. They convey that the tree manager or mulch installer may be unaware of the best care for the tree. Depending on who you ask, mulch volcanoes are subjectively an eyesore and look goofy or out of place.

A tree mulch ring 12 feet in diameter.

Proper Tree Mulching

So how do you properly mulch a tree? Apply a level 2 to 4 inch deep layer of mulch at least 6 feet in diameter or up to the canopy drip line of a medium-to-larged sized tree. The exact size will depend on your preference or landscape limitations. Keep the root flare exposed and not in direct contact with any mulch. If water runoff is a concern, a small 1 inch tall, wall-like berm can be formed by hand around the perimeter of the mulch to encourage water to remain inside of the mulch. Linked below is my previously written Arbor Ed article on how to properly mulch a tree. It contains a video and even additional tips on how to create a crisp edge for enhanced visual appeal! I strongly encourage you to check it out. You can even follow along with the video when mulching your own tree! For those in central Ohio looking for other tree care needs, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and service quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

When Do I Call an Arborist?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
October 3, 2024​

Russell Tree Experts has 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® and 3 ISA Board Certified Master Arborists®!

First of all, what is an arborist? An arborist is a professional that has studied and practices the proper care of urban trees and shrubs. They use a combination of science and skills learned both in the classroom and in the field to perform their daily tasks. Arborists have learned to identify many trees and shrubs along with their preferred growing sites and conditions. They are trained to identify and treat many pests and diseases as well. An arborist can take their commitment to the next level by earning the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist® credential, accredited by the ANSI National Accreditation Board (ANAB) for meeting ISA’s standards of training and knowledge in arboriculture.

With this being said, why call an arborist? Unfortunately, many of our calls come when it’s too late for the tree after it has already succumbed to some type of insect, disease, construction damage, and more. Some trees were also planted in the wrong place to begin with, or simply not planted correctly. The following are some examples of the best instances to call an arborist.

A mature tree being protected with fencing for an upcoming home renovation project.

The best time to call an arborist is before starting your project. Whether you are clearing a lot to build a new house, planting a new landscape around your house, or simply planting a tree anywhere, it is always beneficial to have a plan. One such plan may include how to save trees from damage that you want to maintain on your new lot. This requires a lot of planning before, during, and after this process. Planting the wrong tree in the wrong spot is often a problem we deal with in many situations. Many people don't account for the mature size of that river birch they planted just off the corner of the house. Structural pruning at an early age can help trees adapt to the site, even if they were planted in the wrong place. They may not realize that the red maple they planted does not like central Ohio soils. Many trees we deal with are not suited for our soils and require additional plant healthcare just to maintain their health. This can be avoided with proper planning and choices. The list goes on and on. Sometimes just a simple discussion or email can avoid a lot of issues down the road.

Sometimes a visit to a client’s property can be discouraging when arriving on site and seeing the results of preventable construction damage or improper planning that could have been avoided with a properly timed consultation. I once had a contractor tell me that he had never killed a tree. That contractor had apparently never visited a site he worked at 4 to 5 years later to see the results from the construction and damage. Some construction damage can be apparent within the first year, but oftentimes it may take 4 to 5 years before the total impact is realized.

A tree with chlorotic leaves, indicating a potential pH problem or nutrient deficiency that could slowly lead to the decline and death of the tree if left untreated.

When I arrive on a property with trees planted too closely together, planted in the wrong site conditions, and/or planted incorrectly, these inadequate conditions sadden me for the health of the trees. As an arborist, we are trained to see the future impact of plant selections, as well as how they will fit into their site at maturity. Trees planted too close together can often result in stunted growth due to resource competition such as water, sunlight, and space. Unideal site conditions for a tree can lead to numerous, future problems such as leaf scorch and chlorosis just to name a few. An improperly planted tree can result in stem-girdling roots and root rot. A simple consultation in the beginning can avoid a lot of issues down the road. 

My third, most challenging visit is to a recently purchased property. One of the best times to consult with an arborist is prior to purchasing an existing property with mature trees. We often find major problems that could be taken care of before the purchase by the seller or used in the negotiation of the purchase price. Most home inspectors are not trained to identify tree issues. A simple consultation could save you a lot of money on your new home purchase. A recent example is with our Media Production Coordinator (Enrique) who had a pre-purchase inspection by one of our Regional Managers (Mitch) who caught lecanium scale on a crabapple tree and boxwood leafminer on numerous boxwood shrubs that were missed by the home inspector. He was able to bring this to the attention of the previous homeowner who offered to take care of the plant healthcare services prior to closing. In the end, he saved a few hundred dollars by attaining a pre-purchase inspection instead of paying for plant healthcare services.

ISA Certified Arborist® Mike McKee and ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel planting a ginkgo tree!

Another trend that I have noticed lately is insurance companies telling homeowners that they must eliminate all overhang of their structure or their insurance policy will be dropped. Some insurance agents are using Google Earth images to make many of these decisions and not visiting the property in-person to more accurately assess the tree’s risk. This practice could lead to pruning practices that could severely degrade the health of your trees. A property owner that is proactively caring for their trees should not be subjected to this practice. If this trend continues, it will be our job as arborists to help convince insurance companies not to require this practice, especially when it is not appropriate. If you receive such a request from your insurance company, this would be another opportune time to call an arborist.

In closing, the goal of this article is to help people to understand the best time to call an ISA Certified Arborist®. The scenarios mentioned in the article are from recent visits to our client’s properties and are a recurring problem. As an arborist, we are disappointed when we have to tell people to remove a tree that could have been preserved if the proper steps had been taken at the beginning of a project. Tree removal is a part of our business, but preserving trees for future generations is our passion! I hope this helps. Below are other beneficial Arbor Ed article related to tree planting and tree preservation. To request a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, request a quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.