The Persian Parrotia

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 19, 2024​

A Persian parrotia tree (Parrotia persica)

For a variety of reasons, there are certain trees that never seem to get the attention and use they deserve in our Ohio landscapes. The Persian parrotia is one of those trees. The landscape industry tends to rely heavily on a narrow variety of tree species and the Persian parrotia is often overlooked when considering planting options for the landscape. Let’s shed some light on this beautiful, adaptable, and underutilized option.

The Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica), also sometimes known as the Persian ironwood, is a deciduous tree native to a small range of temperate forests in the Middle East. It can grow up to around 30 feet in height with a mature width of 15 to 30 feet. The crown’s shape is generally round or ovular and you may encounter trees grown with either single or multiple stems. The mature size of this tree alone makes it a noteworthy species as this medium size at maturity is often hard to come by and is typically satisfied with trees like river birch or linden. The former often has major health issues with central Ohio’s urban soils. Parrotias tend to be tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions once established, making them a good choice for residential, commercial, and municipal landscapes. Consideration should still be given to location on any property with regard to overhead wires as a 30 foot tree may still be tall enough to interfere with these utilities.

Fall color of Persian parrotia. Note the ~4 different colors of its leaves!

In addition to a desirable size as an accent or shade tree in the landscape, parrotias feature attractive dark green foliage with a gentle serration along the leaf margin. Avid gardeners and tree enthusiasts may find that parrotia foliage resembles that of witch hazel and fothergilla. This is because all three of these species belong to the witch-hazel family (Hamamelidaceae). Fall color is among the best you can find, with blends of yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds that almost seem to glow at the peak of fall foliage season. After the leaves drop, the tree continues to provide winter interest with a beautifully smooth and mottled bark, not unlike the mature bark of crape myrtle or lacebark pine. Flowering in central Ohio occurs in late winter and is not particularly showy. Parrotias are cold hardy to zone 4 (5a), making it a great match for central Ohio winter temperatures.

When planting a parrotia, the selected site should receive full sun to partial shade. Even though the species is tolerant of a variety of soil conditions, including soil pH and somewhat poor soil structure, the site should be well drained and not prone to standing water. With proper location to accommodate its future mature size, correct planting methods, and aftercare, parrotias can be healthy and beautiful additions to an Ohio landscape for several or more decades. Best of all, they are readily found at Ohio plant nurseries and garden centers, making them a tree species that you shouldn’t have to go too far to find! Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Pawpaw Cream Pie and I

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
November 7, 2024​

When it comes to trees, I’ve got lots of favorites. I have a favorite deciduous tree - the Persian parrotia. My favorite evergreen tree is the lacebark pine. My favorite tree for fall color is the black tupelo. I even have a favorite smelling tree - the concolor fir (I love that the crushed needles smell like oranges). Today, I’m writing about my favorite native, edible fruit tree, the pawpaw! Keep reading if you like pie.

A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) in the fall!

If you’re not hip to pawpaws already, the next paragraph is required reading. If you have pawpaw trees in your landscape currently, have ever attended the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, have a pawpaw cookbook, own an article of clothing with a pawpaw printed on it, or have a pawpaw bumper sticker on your car, you can jump ahead to the pie.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), sometimes called custard apple, is a hardy and adaptable small tree, generally growing 15 - 25’ in height in the landscape, with a dense pyramidal shaped canopy (when grown in full sun). The leaves hang downward at an angle and give the tree a somewhat tropical appearance. The fall color of the leaves is a nice golden yellow. Maroon to purple flowers come out mid-spring and are pollinated by flies. Interesting side note: Some of the old timers I know hang meat in their pawpaw trees at the time of flowering to increase pollination as the meat attracts more flies. Pawpaw flowers give way to small fruits, 3 - 6” in length that somewhat resemble a banana and often form in clumps of 3 to 5. Depending on the tree, the fruit can ripen anywhere between late August and early October. Additional side notes: The pawpaw fruit is the largest fruit native to North America and the pawpaw tree is the host plant for the caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly. Good stuff!

Pawpaw fruit! Quarter for scale.

Pawpaw fruit is one of my favorite things to look forward to every year (up there with spring flowers and fall color). The fruit tastes similar to a banana, mango, pear but with more of a custard-like consistency. FYI, the fruit can often contain many large, lima bean-sized seeds, especially with wild picked fruit. The fruit also has a short shelf life, often lasting only a few days after ripening, which is why you don’t see pawpaws at Costco.

Several cultivated varieties of pawpaw exist now that have been selected for longer lasting and  larger fruit with less seeds. I personally recommend ‘Prolific,’ ‘Wells,’ and ‘Sweet Alice.’ These cultivated varieties can be difficult to source, but not impossible. Check in with the folks at Dannaher Landscaping in Galena who generally have several different varieties of pawpaw trees on hand. These are good friends of mine.

Collecting wild fruit is also cool and another reason to go out into the woods. In central Ohio, I typically find pawpaw trees growing naturally near the banks of Walnut Creek, Alum Creek, the Scioto River, the Olentangy River, and throughout wooded flood plains where it often develops a more open and leggy appearance. Near my office in Westerville, along the Alum Creek bike path, I have observed several pawpaw trees in excess of 30’ in height with decent fruit production. We’re getting closer to the part about pie.

Dad removing seeds from the pulp of a pawpaw with precision.

I first discovered pawpaw trees by accident while my brother and I were canoeing a multi-day trip down the Scioto River late summer 2006. We kept noticing the fruit reaching out over the river from Columbus to Portsmouth and we decided to bring some back home to our father. We really didn’t know what we had, but Dad figured out they were pawpaws and decided to save the seeds, which started some of our original trees. My brother and I have followed different paths growing up, but we both have become professional ISA Certified Arborists® and I think somehow it started with the power of the pawpaw. Almost pie time.

Since 2006, I have eaten pawpaw every which way. At the risk of sounding like Forrest Gump, I’ve had pawpaw ice cream, pawpaw candy, pawpaw beer, pawpaw bread, pawpaw salsa, deep fried pawpaw on a stick and everything pawpaw in between. Dad even invented the pawtini (a martini with a toothpick holding a slice of frozen pawpaw). Until recently, my preference for pawpaw provisions was just eating the pulp straight out of the skin with a spoon. If I’m feeling fancy, I might even chill the fruit first, cut it in half, and cover it with homemade whipping cream for an excellent dessert.

A couple of years ago a colleague sent me a recipe for pawpaw cream pie and it blew my mind! (Yes, it is now pie time.) I’ve been experimenting with different levels and ingredients ever since and today I present to you my final draft!  

T.J.’s Pawpaw Cream Pie Recipe

• ½ cup of sugar

• ⅓ cup of flour 

• 3 egg yolks, beaten (save the whites for the meringue topping)

• 3 egg whites

• 1 cup of milk

• 1 cup of heavy cream

• 1 cup of pureed pawpaw pulp

• 3 tbsp. of sugar

• 1 pinch of salt

• 1 baked 9-inch pastry shell

• Optional: ⅓ - ½ cup of chopped walnuts

Start by combining the sugar and flour. Add the beaten egg yolks, milk and cream. Mix well and add the pawpaw pulp and walnuts. The walnuts are not essential to the recipe but add some additional flavor and texture. Cook and stir constantly over a low heat until the mixture thickens. Let cool and then pour mixture into a baked pastry shell and cover with meringue. Make a meringue by beating the 3 left over egg whites stiff with 3 tbsp. of sugar and a pinch of salt. Bake at 350 degrees F for 12 - 15 minutes until meringue is browned.

I also make a true cream pie version of this pie following the same recipe except ditching the 3 egg whites and baking the custard and then adding homemade whipping cream to the top after the filling has cooled.   A simple and delicious recipe for whipping cream is to mix a half pint container of heavy whipping cream with ¼ cup of sugar and 1 teaspoon of vanilla.

Both of these versions are outstanding. If you like banana cream pie, you are going to love this recipe. I’m partial to the true cream pie version but full disclosure, most of my taste testing buddies prefer the meringue.

This recipe is a great way to use up several pawpaws at once as I often end up with fruit faster than I can eat it. Pawpaw is an underutilized tree in the landscape and I’m hoping that delicious pie will encourage you to plant one; although fruit production is better with two. Pawpaw is an easy tree to grow (I haven’t killed one yet) and it has no significant insect or disease problems. This tree will grow happily in a wide range of environments and tolerate some of the most challenging sites and conditions. I hope you can find a way to incorporate this great native tree into your landscape and I encourage you to share any pawpaw recipes, experiences or questions you might have with us at the bottom of this article. Look forward to hearing from you!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Firewood Cutting and Safety Tips!

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist®
October 31, 2024

Fall is the time for football, leaf-peeping, pumpkin spice everything, and if you're like me, SO! MUCH! FIREWOOD! to process!!! In my twenty years of heating my home almost exclusively with firewood, I have learned a lot of tricks that inevitably came with learning from my mistakes. The following is a list of safety reminders and veteran advice for processing and burning wood in your own home. 

GETTING STARTED

When getting started, have a professional inspect and clean your chimney, stove, and/or fireplace annually. For heavier users like me, a second cleaning may be needed mid-winter. NEVER burn until recommended repairs are completed.

Keep fire extinguishers charged and easily accessible. Know how to operate one! Use appropriately aged hardwood species. For example, conifers should never be burned indoors. Never burn poison ivy or wood with vines you can't identify, even outdoors. Wood must be cut or split and sit long enough to allow moisture content to drop. This will typically take a minimum of 6 months. Wood with conks or mushrooms have sat too long.

Add an appropriately sized venting chimney cap to keep animals out (ask me how I know) and to protect against water damage. Water-loving tree species (ex: willow, cottonwood, and sycamore) are not dangerous to burn, but do not produce enough heat to warrant the effort.

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Example of a Fireplace Inspection Form

CUTTING LOGS

Before cutting any logs, measure your stove’s opening to determine the size of your chainsaw cuts. Cuts that are too short wastes effort and time. You also don’t want to deal with the frustration of having an oversized piece of firewood that won’t fit through the door no matter how hard you try to force it or no matter how many times you rotate it. Ask me how I know… If you care about your back and chainsaw chain, you can cut your firewood on stacked logs or palettes for better work positioning. I strongly advise using a modern chainsaw with all safety features in place. Below is a video we’ve made on chainsaw maintenance and safety!

When using a chainsaw, I recommend staying safe and wearing personal protective equipment (PPE) such as ankle-high boots, chainsaw pants or chaps, hearing protection, and eye protection. If you want to complete the arborist look, you can also wear a helmet and hi-vis t-shirt too!  Cut out and discard any imperfections in the wood such as knots, bends, or flaws. These will be hard to split and may not be worth your time and energy.

SPLITTING LOGS (BY HAND) 

Splitting logs can be physically strenuous labor complete with bends, lifts, and cardiovascular stress. Be honest about your fitness and pace yourself! On the flip side, pre-cut and pre-split wood can be purchased relatively easily. It's far cheaper than a heart attack! When splitting logs, always wear ear and eye protection. Split logs on a large, flat stump or trunk section in an open space. Use a splitting maul, not an axe, and various metal splitting wedges. Again, make life easy and don't worry about waste - if a log is difficult to split, set it aside, and knock out easier pieces.

One important detail to consider about firewood once you have your split logs is to not move it! Firewood can contain insects and disease that could spread and harm another tree population. One harmful example is how emerald ash borer was first detected in the US around 2002 and wiped out, with no exaggeration, millions of ash trees across North America. The general accepted theory as to how emerald ash borer ended up in the US was through wood in a shipping crate that arrived from China. All of this to say, the exact distance varies based on county, state, and country, but the general recommendation is to burn wood within 10 miles of where it was purchased or from where the wood was split. For more information, DontMoveFirewood.org is a good resource! (not sponsored, just want to spread the message!)

STACKING

Stacking can surprisingly be another physically strenuous task, especially if you rush or try to stack too many logs at a time. Please pace yourself accordingly! When choosing a location, select a space elevated from the bare ground that can also be protected from rain and other weather. Leave a gap large enough to walk through between your woodpile and structures to make logs more accessible. More importantly, this will provide a buffer zone for insects, rodents, and wood decaying organisms between the stack and your house, shed, etc.

When stacking, place the flat side down. Round sides can roll, making the entire stack unstable. Build up corners and outside edges first - gaps in the middle can be filled as needed with less precision. Orient wedge-shaped logs inwards. Shifts or slides will fall harmlessly to the center instead of the whole stack toppling over.

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BURNING

Before burning, have an evacuation plan ready that includes calling 9-1-1 in the event of an emergency. When it comes time to burn your firewood,  build up heat little by little. You can first ignite paper and work your way up to cardboard, then kindling, and eventually small logs. Cardboard doesn't burn hot enough to ignite full-sized logs. Burn as hot as possible to avoid buildup in the chimney. Remove ashes to a metal container daily. Wood ashes can increase a soil’s pH, so I would not recommend adding them to a mulch or compost bed unless you know that the pH level is below its optimal range for the trees or plants. Regularly inspect the interior and exterior of the room containing the chimney/stove.

Whether you're a veteran or a newbie, cutting and burning firewood is a physically demanding process with life and property threatening consequences. While the process should be respected with the proper safety procedures, it does not need to be intimidating. For those curious, Russell Tree Experts does not produce or sell firewood, but we do offer local, log delivery for you to process yourself! Safe and happy splitting my friends, those blisters will callus soon enough!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Sincerely,

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA certified arborist. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Mulch Volcanoes & The Hidden Dangers

By Enrique Arayata
October 24, 2024

The kwanzan cherry tree in question.

Recently, I was talking to one of my neighbors about typical home and outdoor activities, which sparked the conversation about the kwanzan cherry tree in my front yard. He let me know that it was mulched incorrectly, which caught me off-guard seeing as I took mulching advice from my coworkers Lindsey, an ISA Certified Arborist®, and TJ, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. I kept an open mind and asked him what was wrong and he informed me that it’s best to form a volcano-like shape up towards the trunk of the tree so that way the tree will absorb more water and to increase curb appeal. For him, since it looks more intentional and less natural, it shows that someone is caring for the tree. I communicated to him that multiple coworkers as well as the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide have conflicting information. He said he’s been doing it this way for decades and everything has been fine, completely ignoring the fact that his 50-60 foot tall sugar maple tree was removed due to heavy decay at the base of the tree. We agreed to disagree and went on with our days. Now, I’m not saying mulch volcanoes will cause your tree to decay and be removed, but I am saying that it is detrimental to a tree’s health and that this method of mulching needs to be addressed, stopped, and changed.

A mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed trunk flare and the mulch exceeding the height of the surrounding grade.

So what is a mulch volcano? A mulch volcano, also sometimes known as a mulch mound, mulch pyramid, or a mulch shield, is a circular volcano-shaped pile of mulch above ground level formed up to the trunk of a tree. Mulch volcanoes are created with good intention as tree mulching adds nutrients to the soil, aids in water retention, helps the tree outcompete other plants for resources, protects the tree from trunk damage by lawn mowers and string trimmers, minimizes soil compaction, and increases curb appeal. However, all of the aforementioned benefits apply only to properly mulched trees and mulch volcanoes are an improper form of mulching that eliminates most of these benefits. Most of the time, the person applying mulch to the tree does not even know about this incorrect practice. So if you have ever created a mulch volcano, know that I am not upset or mad. My goal is to educate and discuss the harms of mulch volcanoes and the proper ways to mulch a tree.

An example of stem girdling roots.

Limited Oxygen and Stem Girdling Roots

Mulch volcanoes bury the roots of a tree and simulate it being planted too deeply. This limits the availability of oxygen and water which can cause stem girdling roots, roots that wrap around the trunk of the tree in search of oxygen and nutrients and inevitably “choke” the tree. Stem girdling roots can lead to dieback, stunted growth, and delayed or shrunken leaves popping out in the spring. This can be treated via root collar excavation.

Limited Water

For a mulch volcano with compacted mulch, less water is actually retained and runs off to the bottom perimeter of the mulch. This results in less water availability for the tree as it may run off elsewhere on the property or be absorbed by grass and other plants instead of by the tree.

Excess Water and Bacteria

For better or for worse, mulch is great at retaining water. In the case of mulch volcanoes with porous mulch, this is bad because water can sit and dampen the trunk. Sitting water is bad for a tree because it can carry bacteria that can lead to disease.

Soil pH

Overmulching in this fashion may also limit nitrogen availability and detrimentally alter the soil’s pH. A change in pH outside the ideal range for the tree can lead to nutrient deficiency, chlorosis, stunted growth, defoliation, dieback, or even worse, the death of a tree.

Another mulch volcano. Note the tip dieback on the right side that could be a result of the mulch volcano. An in-depth inspection would be needed for confirmation.

Rodents

When mulch is piled high, it may be enticing to rodents as a form of shelter and concealment. They have also been observed to feed on the lower stems and bark of trees, leaving open wounds that could invite decay, disease, and pests. 

Aesthetics

Mulch volcanoes can make a trained eye who knows proper mulching practices cringe similar to nails on a chalkboard. They convey that the tree manager or mulch installer may be unaware of the best care for the tree. Depending on who you ask, mulch volcanoes are subjectively an eyesore and look goofy or out of place.

A tree mulch ring 12 feet in diameter.

Proper Tree Mulching

So how do you properly mulch a tree? Apply a level 2 to 4 inch deep layer of mulch at least 6 feet in diameter or up to the canopy drip line of a medium-to-larged sized tree. The exact size will depend on your preference or landscape limitations. Keep the root flare exposed and not in direct contact with any mulch. If water runoff is a concern, a small 1 inch tall, wall-like berm can be formed by hand around the perimeter of the mulch to encourage water to remain inside of the mulch. Linked below is my previously written Arbor Ed article on how to properly mulch a tree. It contains a video and even additional tips on how to create a crisp edge for enhanced visual appeal! I strongly encourage you to check it out. You can even follow along with the video when mulching your own tree! For those in central Ohio looking for other tree care needs, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and service quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Coordinator, Russell Tree Experts

In his free time, Enrique enjoys working out, hanging out with his girlfriend, video production and photography, cars, technology, cooking, and watching new movies and YouTube videos. He has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University, and is an FAA Certified Remote Pilot.

Why Do We Need Bats?

By Michelle Burden & Nicole Hoffman
October 17, 2024​

Do you ever wonder why some creatures were placed on the Earth such as snakes, spiders and the like? One such creature that comes to mind is the bat. While they are not appealing to most of us, bats serve a purpose on this planet and deserve respect as they play a vital role in our ecosystem.

Did you know there are over 1200 kinds of bats across the globe? About 13 to 15 species of them reside right here in the Buckeye state. Unfortunately, four of these bat species, also known as flittermice for their fluttering wings, are on Ohio’s endangered species list. Let’s learn a bit more about these endangered bat types in Ohio, how they are helpful to us, and what we can do to save these nocturnal creatures so precious to our planet.

• Tricolored Bat - Known for their mixed dark and light coloring. These endangered bats prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. You may find them in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters (that’s a good thing).

• Northern Long-Eared Bat - Known by their long-pointed ears. Similar to the tricolored bat, they also prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. Similarly, they are also found in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters!

• Indiana Bat - Was first found in southern Indiana’s Wyandotte Cave in the late 1920s and is distinguished by the keel (a flap of skin) on the calcar (the spur off the ankle). This bat enjoys taking up residence in pastures, corn fields, and wooded areas in the buckeye state as well as Indiana.

• Little Brown Bat - Weighs in at less than an ounce, has mouse-like ears, and long hairs on its feet. This tiny flying mammal can also be found in tree hollows and wood piles.  

The flittermouse, AKA the bat, is the major pollinator for over 530 types of flowering plants. With their unique ability to fly farther than the average insect and with their skin coating, bats make excellent pollinators. As they lap up the nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to their coat. Then when they visit the next flower for a drink, the pollen falls onto said flower. The bulsa tree population depends highly on the bat pollination process. Bulsa is the world’s lightest wood tree and is used for aircraft construction and surfboards since bulsa wood also floats.

Without these amazing, flying mammals, we would not have agave - a natural sugar alternative used to sweeten foods and used in medicines to fight diseases like cancer. Additionally, agave is also the main ingredient in tequila.

Bats also play a major role in pest control. In the U.S. alone, they eat enough pests to save more than $1 billion annually in pesticide costs and crop damage. As we are discovering the harmful effects of pesticides, we should welcome these creatures as they naturally combat the pest battle.

Why are these nocturnal insect eaters becoming endangered? As the human population and businesses grow, so also does our need for roads, buildings, and housing developments. With this human growth and development, the bats are losing their habitats.

Bats are also becoming endangered due to white-nose syndrome; a fungus that thrives in cold humid conditions of caves and mines where bats often dwell in wintertime. Discovered in 2006, this fungus grows on the muzzles, ears, and wings, and has claimed the lives of over five million bats.

During the winter, bats will either migrate south for warmer weather and a more plentiful food source, or hibernate in places such as caves, mines, or rock crevices to minimize energy expenditure. In Ohio, this will typically take place from approximately October 1st to March 31st. It is during this window that it is safer for certain tree work projects to be completed. Such examples are larger scale, heavier-wooded areas where bats are likely or known to be located. A residential or developed area is typically safe to perform tree work year-round since these are unpreferable and unlikely conditions for bats to call their home. Surveys can be performed, or in some cases are required, to determine if bats are present. These precautions are done to minimize disturbance for these endangered bats.

So what can we do to protect the flittermouse?

• Develop a natural habitat around your home if there is a confirmed bat sighting. In areas where it is safe to do so, leave dead and dying trees in their place. These trees can make great roosting sites for bats.

• Install a bat box 10 to 20 feet above ground and create a garden with flowering plants nearby. Place the bat box in an area that will get six to eight hours of direct sunlight primarily in the morning. Bats will take up residence and keep those pests away as your garden grows.

• Decrease the amount of light in your lawn area as too much light can disrupt bat behavior. Turn down the lights and watch the bat acrobatics as they munch on up to as 3,000 insects per night.

Every creature has a purpose on Earth and the bat is no exception. Let’s do all we can to help them as they continue to help us!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Michelle Burden I Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Michelle joined Russell Tree Experts in 2019. Fall is her favorite time of the year! When she is not working she enjoy spending time with family and friends.

Nicole Hoffman I Project Accountant, Russell Tree Experts

Nicole joined Russell Tree Experts in 2023! Her favorite tree is the sugar maple! She is drawn to the tree industry because of the awesome people. Outside of work, you can find her enjoying quality family time or eating her favorite food: Mexican food!

When Do I Call an Arborist?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
October 3, 2024​

Russell Tree Experts has 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® and 3 ISA Board Certified Master Arborists®!

First of all, what is an arborist? An arborist is a professional that has studied and practices the proper care of urban trees and shrubs. They use a combination of science and skills learned both in the classroom and in the field to perform their daily tasks. Arborists have learned to identify many trees and shrubs along with their preferred growing sites and conditions. They are trained to identify and treat many pests and diseases as well. An arborist can take their commitment to the next level by earning the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist® credential, accredited by the ANSI National Accreditation Board (ANAB) for meeting ISA’s standards of training and knowledge in arboriculture.

With this being said, why call an arborist? Unfortunately, many of our calls come when it’s too late for the tree after it has already succumbed to some type of insect, disease, construction damage, and more. Some trees were also planted in the wrong place to begin with, or simply not planted correctly. The following are some examples of the best instances to call an arborist.

A mature tree being protected with fencing for an upcoming home renovation project.

The best time to call an arborist is before starting your project. Whether you are clearing a lot to build a new house, planting a new landscape around your house, or simply planting a tree anywhere, it is always beneficial to have a plan. One such plan may include how to save trees from damage that you want to maintain on your new lot. This requires a lot of planning before, during, and after this process. Planting the wrong tree in the wrong spot is often a problem we deal with in many situations. Many people don't account for the mature size of that river birch they planted just off the corner of the house. Structural pruning at an early age can help trees adapt to the site, even if they were planted in the wrong place. They may not realize that the red maple they planted does not like central Ohio soils. Many trees we deal with are not suited for our soils and require additional plant healthcare just to maintain their health. This can be avoided with proper planning and choices. The list goes on and on. Sometimes just a simple discussion or email can avoid a lot of issues down the road.

Sometimes a visit to a client’s property can be discouraging when arriving on site and seeing the results of preventable construction damage or improper planning that could have been avoided with a properly timed consultation. I once had a contractor tell me that he had never killed a tree. That contractor had apparently never visited a site he worked at 4 to 5 years later to see the results from the construction and damage. Some construction damage can be apparent within the first year, but oftentimes it may take 4 to 5 years before the total impact is realized.

A tree with chlorotic leaves, indicating a potential pH problem or nutrient deficiency that could slowly lead to the decline and death of the tree if left untreated.

When I arrive on a property with trees planted too closely together, planted in the wrong site conditions, and/or planted incorrectly, these inadequate conditions sadden me for the health of the trees. As an arborist, we are trained to see the future impact of plant selections, as well as how they will fit into their site at maturity. Trees planted too close together can often result in stunted growth due to resource competition such as water, sunlight, and space. Unideal site conditions for a tree can lead to numerous, future problems such as leaf scorch and chlorosis just to name a few. An improperly planted tree can result in stem-girdling roots and root rot. A simple consultation in the beginning can avoid a lot of issues down the road. 

My third, most challenging visit is to a recently purchased property. One of the best times to consult with an arborist is prior to purchasing an existing property with mature trees. We often find major problems that could be taken care of before the purchase by the seller or used in the negotiation of the purchase price. Most home inspectors are not trained to identify tree issues. A simple consultation could save you a lot of money on your new home purchase. A recent example is with our Media Production Coordinator (Enrique) who had a pre-purchase inspection by one of our Regional Managers (Mitch) who caught lecanium scale on a crabapple tree and boxwood leafminer on numerous boxwood shrubs that were missed by the home inspector. He was able to bring this to the attention of the previous homeowner who offered to take care of the plant healthcare services prior to closing. In the end, he saved a few hundred dollars by attaining a pre-purchase inspection instead of paying for plant healthcare services.

ISA Certified Arborist® Mike McKee and ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel planting a ginkgo tree!

Another trend that I have noticed lately is insurance companies telling homeowners that they must eliminate all overhang of their structure or their insurance policy will be dropped. Some insurance agents are using Google Earth images to make many of these decisions and not visiting the property in-person to more accurately assess the tree’s risk. This practice could lead to pruning practices that could severely degrade the health of your trees. A property owner that is proactively caring for their trees should not be subjected to this practice. If this trend continues, it will be our job as arborists to help convince insurance companies not to require this practice, especially when it is not appropriate. If you receive such a request from your insurance company, this would be another opportune time to call an arborist.

In closing, the goal of this article is to help people to understand the best time to call an ISA Certified Arborist®. The scenarios mentioned in the article are from recent visits to our client’s properties and are a recurring problem. As an arborist, we are disappointed when we have to tell people to remove a tree that could have been preserved if the proper steps had been taken at the beginning of a project. Tree removal is a part of our business, but preserving trees for future generations is our passion! I hope this helps. Below are other beneficial Arbor Ed article related to tree planting and tree preservation. To request a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, request a quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Day in the Life of a Tree Wellness Technician!

By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist®
September 26, 2024​

Green spaces are known to have an endless list of positive effects on mental and physical health, including but not limited to reducing stress, reducing blood pressure, strengthening memory retention, increasing productivity, increasing concentration, increasing creativity, and lowering the symptoms of dementia. This makes being a plant healthcare technician a rewarding profession centered around the essential task of maintaining and enhancing the health of trees and shrubs in the urban landscape! However, it is not without its challenges. Each day is a blend of technical skills, environmental awareness, and client interaction which makes everyday both unique and fulfilling.

One of our plant healthcare trucks!

My day typically begins early, often before sunrise, as I prepare for a day of diverse tasks. The morning routine involves reviewing the day’s schedule, which might include site visits to commercial properties, residential gardens, or public parks. Each location has its own set of plant health issues, so preparation is key. I check for any special instructions or updates related to the plants I will be treating, ensuring that all necessary equipment and supplies are loaded into the truck. Often, I am aware of the issues I am treating, but not always. If I can, upon arriving at the site I try to meet with the client, if for nothing else, to let them know who’s walking around their property. Then my role will shift into diagnostic mode or straight into treatment. If I am doing an inspection, this involves carefully inspecting plants for signs of distress, looking for telltale signs of pests, diseases, or nutrient deficiencies. Detailed observations are crucial. For example, yellowing leaves might indicate a nutrient imbalance, while holes in leaves could suggest an insect infestation. I take lots of notes on these observations and sometimes collect samples for further analysis.

Treating a crabapple tree for apple scab via fungicide spray!

A significant part of my day involves applying treatments. This could mean spraying pesticides, administering fertilizers, or implementing soil amendments. Each treatment requires precision to ensure that it targets the problem effectively while minimizing impact on the surrounding environment. I follow a lot of safety protocols, wearing protective gear and adhering to regulations regarding chemical use. Often, I will simply report my findings and allow the regional manager who is more familiar with the property to engage in consultations with clients. This involves explaining findings, recommending best practices for plant care, and discussing potential improvements to enhance plant health in the future. As my workday progresses, I am constantly logging data; documenting treatments I’ve applied, the observations I’ve made, and the outcomes I’ve observed. This helps track the progress of each plant and plan future interventions.

Root zone invigoration using an air excavation device!

An often-overlooked aspect of working in various outdoor settings is dealing with the occasional mess left behind by others. For instance, it is quite a relief when I encounter a site where pet waste, such as dog poop, has already been picked up. It not only improves my working conditions, but also ensures that I can focus on plant health without any distractions. This small but significant detail can make a substantial difference in my day’s workflow as dragging a hose through a backyard without hitting any landmines can sometimes be a challenging task. It is a simple pleasure that certainly enhances the overall experience of the job. In addition, it is incredibly helpful when clients are able to prepare for my arrival by moving bird feeders, yard art, or furniture out of the work zone. This thoughtful preparation allows me to focus on the task at hand and leads to a smoother and more efficient workflow.

Vertical mulching a tree suffering from soil compaction!

My day typically ends with a review of the completed tasks and preparation for the following day. I may plan out my next set of site visits and ensure all necessary tools and supplies are working and ready. There’s also a period of reflection on the day’s work, assessing what went well, and what could be improved. However, not every day is perfect, and there are challenges such as inclement weather or unexpected complications with plant health issues that may lead to delays. This can of course be frustrating for clients because some interventions may have a very narrow window of effectivity and may have to take priority of certain tasks that have a much wider range of time to be effective. Communication here is the key to ensuring tasks are getting done in their appropriate time frame and clients are satisfied with the work they are receiving. One of the more gratifying aspects of my job is the opportunity to visit sites year-to-year, or sometimes even a few times a year, and witness the positive outcomes of my interventions. There is something deeply rewarding about seeing a plant bounce back from the brink of disease or pest damage and seeing it full of life and vigor; especially after you have put in the effort to nurse it back to health.

In summary, a day in the life of a plant healthcare technician is a dynamic blend of technical expertise, hands-on problem solving, and client interaction. It involves diagnosing and treating plant health issues, applying treatments, and offering valuable advice. Amidst the challenges, small comforts, like avoiding the unpleasantness of dog poop, enhance the work experience, making the role both manageable and uplifting by ensuring that plants thrive and contribute positively to humans and to their environments. If tree preservation services are of interest for your property, Russell Tree Experts provides free tree work quotes from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or (614) 895-7000!

CHECK OUT THESE VIDEOS!

Sincerely,

Alex Miller I Crew Leader, Russell Tree Experts

Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!

How to Prepare Your Trees for Severe Storms

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
September 19, 2024​

The word “storm” can take on many different meanings: Thunderstorms, blizzards, ice storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, or one of our crew leaders Storm Wellman! Jokes aside, all types of storm events can wreak havoc on properties, causing significant damage to homes, landscapes, and personal property. Preventing storm damage is crucial for safeguarding your property and minimizing costly repairs. By taking proactive steps you can reduce the impact of severe weather. Regular maintenance and preparation are key to ensuring that your property remains protected when storms occur. In this article, we will explore practical tips to help protect your property against the destructive forces of nature.

WHAT IS "STORM DAMAGE"?

General Crew Leader Harry Carter removing a tree off of a house that failed during a thunderstorm.

Storm damage occurs when a tree or limbs from a tree fall and damage valued property. This can range from a tree limb falling on your gutter to a large tree falling onto your home. Storm damage results in millions of dollars in property loss every year. 

IS IT POSSIBLE TO PREVENT STORM DAMAGE?

While it is not always possible to eliminate storm damage, steps can be taken to reduce its impact. However, extreme storms may still cause damage despite preventive efforts. See below for useful tips to help you identify at-risk trees and limbs as well commonly employed interventions to mitigate these risks for the future. 

HOW TO IDENTIFY STORM DAMAGE RISKS 

The key to reducing potential storm damage is identifying the hazards. The following are a few simple ways to try and identify potential hazards.

1.    Look for hazardous dead limbs close to your house or other valued property

Dead limbs near a house.

2.    Try to identify declining trees on your property by looking for the following:

• A large number of dead limbs in the canopy of the tree

• The existence of conks or mushrooms which are the fruiting bodies of decay on the trunk of the tree

• In general, a tree that appears unhealthy (missing leaves, loose bark, etc.)

An example of co-dominant stems with multiple brace rods installed.

3.    Locate high risk co-dominant stems

• These are tight “V” type unions 

• May appear as multiple stems originating from one point in the trunk.

HOW TO MITIGATE HAZARDS

Mitigating the hazards within your trees can be done in many ways. At Russell Tree Experts, we can identify general and more noticeable hazards on your property during a tree inspection such as our free anytime quote or optional firm time quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®. Another option to consider is a tree risk assessment containing a thoroughly written report on a suspected hazardous tree. In this scenario, an ISA Certified Arborist® with a TRAQ (Tree Risk Assessment Qualification) will employ various tools and tests from head-to-toe of your tree to assess the overall risk rating of your tree. Once hazards are identified either though a property inspection or tree risk assessment, a full mitigation plan can be put together. This plan may include, but is not limited to, tree pruning, tree removal, brace rod installation, cabling, and lightning protection to make your property safer and more resilient to storms. 

IN SUMMARY

Don’t be scared - be prepared. A well-maintained tree with regular pruning and care will be stronger and more storm-resistant. Proactively identifying hazards and putting together a mitigation plan can help save money as well as reduce headaches when storm events occur.

CHECK OUT THESE VIDEOS!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Fall Webworm: An In-Depth Exploration

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
September 12, 2024​

As a regional manager, I have been hearing many concerns from homeowners about fall webworm over the last few weeks and have seen even more in landscapes throughout central Ohio. Fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea) is a species of moth known for its distinctive and conspicuous webs, which are commonly found on a wide variety of trees across North America. While not considered a major threat, fall webworm can cause significant defoliation in late summer and early fall, leading to reduced vigor and unsightly trees.

Life Cycle of the Fall Webworm

The life cycle of fall webworm is a fascinating process that begins with the emergence of adult moths in late spring or early summer. The adult moths, characterized by their white wings often dotted with black spots, are nocturnal and are seldom seen during the day. After mating, the female moth lays her eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs are small, white, and laid in clusters, often numbering several hundred.

Within a week or two, the eggs hatch into larvae, which are the most destructive stage of the fall webworm life cycle. The caterpillars are initially light green or yellow with two rows of black spots along their bodies. As they mature, they develop long, silky hairs. The larvae immediately begin to feed on the leaves of the host tree, creating a communal web that serves as both a shelter and a feeding ground. As the larvae grow, the web expands to cover more of the tree's branches. This feeding occurs from late spring to mid-summer. By late August, they typically stop feeding.

The larvae go through several instars (or developmental stages) over the course of four to six weeks. Once they reach maturity, they leave the webbing to pupate in the soil or under loose bark, where they remain until the following spring.

Habitat and Distribution

Young fall webworm insects are highly adaptable caterpillars that feed on a wide variety of plants, including more than 100 species of deciduous trees. Some of their preferred hosts include hickory, walnut, cherry, and persimmon trees.

The webs of the fall webworm are commonly found in late summer and early fall, which is how the species earned its name. These webs can cover entire branches and, in severe infestations, can even envelop small trees entirely.

Ecological Impact

While fall webworm is a pest and nuisance, its overall impact on the urban forest is generally minimal. Most healthy trees can withstand the defoliation caused by these caterpillars, and the damage is typically more cosmetic than lethal. The webs themselves, though unsightly, do not cause direct harm to the tree. The unsightly webs can diminish the aesthetic value of ornamental trees, leading to concerns among tree managers.

Management and Control

Controlling populations of fall webworm can be challenging due to the species' high reproductive rate and wide host range. However, several management strategies can help reduce their impact.

1. Mechanical Control: One of the simplest methods is physically removing the webs from affected trees. This can be done by pruning infested branches or tearing open the webs to expose the caterpillars to predators.

2. Biological Control: Natural predators and parasitoids can help keep fall webworm populations in check. Birds, spiders, and wasps are all natural enemies of fall webworm. In some cases, introducing or encouraging these predators can be an effective control measure.

3. Chemical Control: In severe infestations, insecticides may be used to reduce fall webworm populations. We generally only recommend this if the infestation is extreme or if the tree is of high aesthetic value.

4. Cultural Control: Maintaining healthy trees through proper watering, fertilization, and pruning can help them better withstand defoliation. Additionally, removing fallen leaves and other debris from around the base of trees can reduce overwintering sites for pupae.

Conclusion

In conclusion, although the presence of fall webworm can be unsightly and concerning, they are generally not a serious threat to the overall health of trees. We generally do not recommend treatment of this pest unless populations are excessive, or if a young tree is infested to the point where serious defoliation is a concern. Should chemical or physical treatment be warranted, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can provide a free tree quote and determine the best care for your trees at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000!

CHECK OUT THESE ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

The Misunderstood Scapegoat of Our Landscape - Carpenter Ants

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 22, 2024​

Everyone loves to hate them, but did you know that carpenter ants are responsible for saving countless lives each year by dragging unsuspecting homeowners out of the way of falling limbs?

Okay, that’s completely false.

A carpenter ant!

While they may not be the most heroic Hymenopterans in the landscape, carpenter ants generally don’t deserve the “tree destroying, just-as-bad-as-termites” reputation they’ve gained over time. Like most people, places, or things that we think poorly of, there’s usually a good bit of misunderstanding or lack of knowledge that leads to false narratives. Let’s take a look at the habits of carpenter ants to understand them better.

You probably already know a few things about ants in general; they live in colonies, there’s usually one egg-producing female called the queen, they have a diverse diet that can include other insects, plant materials, sources of sugar in the landscape (berries, fruits, etc.) as well as human food. All of these traits apply to carpenter ants as well. But what makes carpenter ants different (among a few other things) is where they set up their nests, and this is an important fact to know if we are to better understand them. Carpenter ants will build nesting sites in moist, decaying wood. This could technically be in the structure of your home if you have an already compromised roof, flashing, or siding that has allowed moisture to decay the underlying framing. But most often these nests are in existing cavities of hardwood trees. If there is one important takeaway from this article, it’s this - carpenter ants DO NOT take perfectly sound, intact wood and turn it into decayed wood. If you see them, carpenter ants are simply an indication that decayed wood is already present, probably in a nearby hardwood tree. Think of it this way - if you sat your old collection of boy band CDs out to the curb, you might have groupies loitering in your front yard, but they’re probably not coming inside. The bigger concern in this case would be your neighbors finding out that you had a collection of boy band CDs in the first place. That’s right, you know who you are.

Carpenter ants on a freshly removed tree trunk with decayed wood present

Carpenter ants seeking out these existing pockets of decay in wood will further mine or carve out the area to create a hospitable and damp site to make new nests. You may see frass or shavings at the base of a tree that can indicate their mining activities within, even if you can’t see them on the outside of the tree. Worker ants that are busy foraging or scouting for new nesting sites can be spotted during the day, but are most active at night. The nesting sites do not contribute to faster decay of the area or further loss of structural integrity. If we should have an opinion about them that is anything other than neutral, let it be one of acceptance, perhaps even gratitude that these little creatures give us clues as to what’s happening in our trees.

One very common question about the cavities that can harbor these ants is “Can I cover it/fill it/seal it in some way to keep things out?” The answer is generally no. It’s virtually impossible to seal out oxygen and water from a cavity within the wood of a tree. And as long as there’s oxygen and moisture, unprotected/untreated wood will decay as nature intended it to. In fact, attempting to seal a cavity can often reduce (but not eliminate) airflow to the area, trapping moisture that would otherwise dry out during warmer, drier weather, and accelerating the rate of decay. The best approach for most trees is to assess their overall health and promote that health if the tree is deemed reasonably safe, or discuss and consider removal or major pruning if a whole tree or sections of it are determined to be hazardous.

Sawdust and a carpenter ant near a tree cavity. 

One important distinction between carpenter ants and termites is that carpenter ants do not eat wood. If it is determined that you have a carpenter ant problem within the structure of your home, contacting a pest control company is perfectly acceptable - just remember that killing the ants doesn’t eliminate the underlying issue that attracted them in the first place. Although treating for carpenter ants in the landscape is typically not necessary, a pest control company would be required for that as well if you chose to have it done. As a professional tree care company that offers plant health care services, we are licensed to apply treatments to horticultural pests when needed. Since carpenter ants are technically categorized as wood-destroying insects, we cannot and do not treat for them at Russell Tree Experts.

To summarize, carpenter ants are probably less of an issue in your landscape than you think. If you have mature trees, you’re very likely going to see them around in the landscape. If you see a lot of them, it may indicate that a larger concern is present. Give us a call and one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can come out to inspect the trees on your property. If you’re simply not sure, remember that carpenter ants are largely nocturnal. So while you’re throwing out those CDs under the cover of darkness, take a flashlight with you and look around!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

How to Mulch a Tree Ring with CRISP Edges!

By Enrique Arayata
August 8, 2024

In this article (and video below), we will be going over how to make a tree mulch ring with crisp edges! First, what is a tree mulch ring? In general, it is a circular area of organic mulch around the trunk of your tree. Sometimes the perimeter will be outlined with stone or plastic landscape edging. The benefits of creating a tree mulch ring is that if done properly, it will aid in maintaining the health of your tree and promote increased growth and vigor. We will also be going over common mistakes to be cautious of.

VIDEOS: HOW TO CREATE A TREE MULCH RING

Full-length video

Shortened video

Benefits of a Tree Mulch Ring

More Nutrients: Organic mulch contains a lot of essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that will slowly break down and decompose for the tree to absorb. Examples of organic mulch are mulches made from wood chips, compost, or leaves. Examples of inorganic mulches that would not provide the benefit of increased nutrients are anything made of stones or synthetic materials like plastic or fabric.

Water Retention: Mulch is a natural insulator that will keep the soil warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer compared to the surrounding, ambient temperature. Mulch also retains water more effectively than grass or topsoil. Evaporation is slowed down and more water is available for the tree. This also means that less tree watering may be needed depending on the weather and season. Instead of watering every 1 to 2 days, a deep soaking once or twice per week could be completed with similar or improved results. Erosion is also minimized as mulch will lessen the impact of water droplets hitting the ground and washing away the soil.

Outcompeting Other Plants: Mulch will reduce competition of nutrients, water, and oxygen for the tree from grass, weeds, invasive plants, and more. This results in the tree having more resources to absorb to keep it growing as healthy as possible!

Minimizing Trunk Damage: A mulch ring will minimize or even eliminate any risk for trunk damage from lawn mowers or string trimmers. Someone may not be intentionally trying to damage a tree’s roots or trunk, but accidents happen when trying to mow or trim those last, stubborn blades of grass. If there’s mulch instead of grass near the trunk, then there will be no reason to bring a lawn mower or string trimmer within a close enough distance for accidental damage to occur. 

Soil Decompaction: Soil compaction is bad for a tree because it minimizes gas exchange and water infiltration. A tree benefits from soil decompaction and root zone invigoration if the soil is compacted when digging up the topsoil and is replaced with porous mulch. Peo de ple are also less likely to step on mulch compared to grass which will aid in minimizing soil compaction and keeping it porous for adequate gas exchange and water infiltration. 

Final product of a properly mulched tree ring!

Reduced Maintenance: Although there is an upfront time commitment with installing a tree mulch ring as well as some annual maintenance with re-edging the lines and adding mulch, less tree maintenance will be needed in the future. A tree mulch ring means less grass to mow and less weeds popping up. Revisiting the benefit of increased water retention, this means that less tree watering will be required with certain exceptions like newly planted trees and drought-like weather conditions. A properly installed tree mulch ring and a consistent watering schedule can also minimize the risk of stem girdling roots, soil compaction, drought stress, and some nutrient deficiencies. This makes for a healthier tree and lessened chance for problems that would require tree work services like fertilization, root collar excavation, root zone invigoration, or worse, tree removal.

Aesthetics: Subjectively speaking, tree mulch rings are aesthetically pleasing and can boost curb appeal! It conveys to passersby that you care about your trees and property. You can even make your neighbor Jim from three doors down envious of your lawn! If you start to notice other neighbors creating a mulch ring around their tree after creating yours, you can take pride and credit for being a trendsetter.

Stem girdling roots circling around the trunk of a tree. This is a common symptom a tree mulched or planted too deeply.

Correcting an Improperly Planted Tree: This doesn’t apply to every tree. However, if you are wanting to mulch a tree that just so happens to be planted improperly, this is a great double positive to fix the imperfection while also gaining the aforementioned benefits of tree mulching. Signs of an improperly planted tree are stem girdling roots, mulch volcanoes, and the lack of a visible root flare.

Now let’s move on with how to create a tree mulch ring and avoid some common mistakes!

How to Create a Tree Mulch Ring 

The ISA Arborists’ Certification Study Guide recommends a mulching depth of 2 to 4 inches and a radius of anywhere from 3 feet up to the canopy drip line of a tree.

1. Determine the size of your mulch ring! In general, aim for a mulch ring with a diameter anywhere between 6 feet wide or up to the canopy drip line for a medium-to-large sized tree. The latter is not always achievable however due to obstacles like nearby trees, plants, concrete, and more. As long as the mulch ring is at least 6 feet in diameter, it should suffice! In terms of mulch depth, 2 to 4 inches is recommended, but I like sticking closer to 2 inches deep.

2. Outline your circle and make sure the tree is centered. There are multiple, effective methods of outlining the mulch ring circle. Below are a few popular ways. One might be more effective than the other depending on your tree, such as if there’s a central leader or any low hanging limbs.

1. Method 1 requires a tool like a shovel or edger and some type of long, ovular, band like a piece of rope, tie down strap, belt, or exercise band. Place the tree trunk inside one end of the band and the edging tool on the other end of the band. Set the distance of the band to the desired radius of the mulch ring. Go around the tree in a circle and make a 2 to 4 inch deep cut into the ground until you have a fully outlined circle.

2. Method 2 requires string and a can of spray paint. Cut the string to the desired radius of your mulch ring. Leave some margin on the string so you can tie the tree trunk and spray paint can together and maintain the desired radius. On one end, tie the string gently and securely to the tree trunk and on the other end, tie the string to the spray paint can. An easy knot I recommend would be the bowline knot! Walk around the tree while applying a visible layer of spray paint to create a circular, painted outline. 

3. Method 3 requires a long garden hose and measuring device. Lay down the garden hose in a circle around the tree to create an outline the size of your desired mulch ring. Use the measuring device to check if the tree is centered in the circle by checking for the same radius at various locations between the trunk and the hose.

4. Method 4 requires a measuring device and an edging tool. Measure your desired radius from the trunk of the tree to the edge of the mulch ring and mark the spot by digging 2 to 4 inches into the soil with your edging tool. Move your shovel away from the mark and repeat this process along the circumference of the tree until your circle is fully outlined. 

3. Dig up the top 2 to 4 inches of topsoil within the circular outline! Be careful of any fine, fibrous tree roots. If any are present, consider using an air blower or your hands to gently remove the soil near it. If there’s any grass or weeds remaining after the top 2 to 4 inches of topsoil are removed, consider pulling them out to minimize the chance of weeds or grass growing out above the mulch. Check for a level surface and a well-defined edge and make touch-ups if needed.

4. Dampen the soil to a darker shade of brown and avoid pooling of any water. This could be considered optional on different guides for how to create a tree mulch ring, but I recommend this as a quick, low effort way to add moisture back into the soil. This is especially helpful if you are doing this in the middle of summer with any exposed roots. Avoid placing down landscape fabric between the soil and mulch. This is a common practice of the past that is slowly being phased out because studies have shown this to not be noticeably more effective at blocking weeds, because the openings can clog up with organic matter and minimize air exchange and drainage, and because the decomposed nutrients from the mulch will be blocked from improving your soil and making nutrients more available for your tree. If weeds are a concern, an optional step could be to apply a weed preventer like Preen before applying mulch.

An incorrect method of applying mulch commonly known as a mulch volcano.

5. Evenly apply your mulch! Depending on the specific diameter and depth of your hole, anywhere from 1 to 4 bags could be used. Be cautious of compacting the mulch. You can lightly tamp the soil with your hands to help level the surface, but keep the mulch porous to maximize gas exchange and water infiltration. Do not cover the root flare (also known as the trunk flare) of the tree. This may be a commonly seen occurrence, but that does not mean it’s the correct way to mulch a tree. This is known as a mulch volcano and is bad for the tree! They are detrimental to a tree’s health because they encourage unwanted disease and decay and because the needed oxygen-carbon dioxide exchange for healthy growth is minimized. Keep it simple by applying a level layer of mulch. If you are concerned about water runoff, a tiny, wall-like berm could be created around the perimeter of the mulch ring and formed by hand to encourage water to remain inside the mulch.

6. Touch up the circumference of the mulch ring to make that edge look nice and crisp! You can use a tool like the sharp end of a shovel, an edger, a string trimmer, or a bed redefiner. Avoid stepping on the edge or using a heavy piece of equipment as the edge could cave in and break.

Final product!

7. Water the mulch! Ideally, it is best to water the tree slowly and deeply using a watering bucket or a drip irrigation device, but you can also use a garden hose on the mist setting and apply it evenly for a couple of minutes to get the mulch damp and moist. Avoid pooling any water and do not get the trunk or leaves excessively soaked for an extended period of time because an environment for disease or decay could be created.

8. Voila, you’re finished! Time to take a step back, enjoy it, take a few pictures, show your friends and family, or whatever else you’d like to do! You might have also created a messy work zone that you may need to clean up!

~~~

In terms of future maintenance, you may annually need to redefine the edge to keep it looking crisp and you may need to add a minimal amount of mulch as it decomposes and thins out. To preserve your edge line, avoid mowing directly up to the edge and use a string trimmer to cut the grass 1-3 inches closest to the edge. You can also add stone around the perimeter to make it stand out even more, but this is not necessary in regards to your tree’s health.

I hope this article was insightful and useful! The videos near the beginning are a visual guide for how to create a tree mulch ring! If you’re curious to learn more, I strongly encourage checking out the related articles below on topics such as proper tree watering, tree mulching, mulch volcanoes, stem girdling roots, and more. As always, if you’re in the central Ohio area looking for tree work, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Coordinator, Russell Tree Experts

In his free time, Enrique enjoys working out, hanging out with his girlfriend, video production and photography, cars, technology, cooking, and watching new movies and YouTube videos. He has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University, and is an FAA Certified Remote Pilot.

Spotted Lanternfly: They Are Here!

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 1, 2024​

In early 2022, I sent out a message warning people to keep an eye out for the spotted lanternfly as it was on the move from our neighboring state of Pennsylvania. Now today in 2024, there are multiple confirmed populations in Franklin County, Ohio. Linked below is a map with confirmed populations:

https://cornell.app.box.com/v/slf-distribution-map-detail

As a review, the spotted lanternfly (SLF) is an invasive insect that feeds on various plant species, with its primary host being tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but has been seen feeding on over 70 species of plants.

Preferred host plants for SLF depending on the time of year and stage of life cycle. (Source: PSU Extension)

Frontal view of a spotted lanternfly. Source: GH Photos Alamy Stock. PSU Extension.

SLF are not harmful to humans as they cannot bite or sting, but they are large in their adult form and look intimidating.

Spotted lanternfly insect are sap suckers and feed on the sap through a tiny, straw-like mouth part. While feeding, they excrete honeydew which has been known to resemble a light rain in forested parts of infested areas. SLF is a plant stressor that, combined with other stressors, can cause significant damage to the host plant. SLF alone may not necessarily kill a tree; it has only been known to kill grapevines, tree of heavens, and black walnut saplings directly.

We need to slow the spread of SLF by checking vehicles and any outdoor equipment for egg deposits. If they are present, they need to be destroyed and not moved across quarantine lines. Eggs are laid in the fall from September to December and will hatch in the spring from April to June. They lay their eggs on trees, decks, houses, outdoor equipment, and cars, and are protected by a mud-like covering, making the egg masses difficult to spot.

Spotted lanternfly egg masses

Adults begin to emerge in July and remain active until a hard freeze. 

Adult spotted lanternfly insects

Late spring/early summer

Spotted lanternfly nymph

When they start hatching, they will look like little black insects with white spots, and they will not turn red until about mid-summer. Watch out for the combination of honeydew/black sooty mold/wasp swarms around your trees, because it could be an indicator of an invasion.

Management options

Contact insecticides can be used by spraying either the nymphs or the adults from May through October. Be cautious of spraying actively blooming plants to minimize the risk of killing beneficial insects. Systemic insecticides can be used to control and kill SLF adults from May through September. Unfortunately, due to SLF being nimble and fast travelers, just because you treat your property or plant material once, doesn’t mean they won’t come back.

Please be diligent about stopping the spread of this invasive pest. When traveling and vacationing this summer, please be diligent in inspecting your vehicles, camping equipment, and basically anything that is exposed and stationary for more than a couple of hours, especially in known outbreak areas.

If you believe your tree might be infested with spotted lanternfly insects, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can provide a free tree quote to determine the best care for your trees at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000!

OTHER CREEPY CRAWLERS!

Sincerely,

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

Some Mites Like It Hot... Ready or Not!

By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist®
July 25, 2024​

As the average temperatures rise, hungry spider mites thrive! These tiny leaf suckers love hot and dry weather and are currently causing many of our beloved foundation shrubs to look sickly and even lose their leaves entirely.

Spider mites on a burning bush

Spider mite damage on burning bush (Euomymus alatus) and on boxwood (Buxus sp.) is common in the summer months. These typically dependably green shrubs will begin to take on a yellow or bronze cast when infested, and, upon closer inspection, a distinct stippling or scratched appearance of the leaves will become apparent. This characteristic pattern is caused by feeding of the mites on the undersides of the plant’s leaves. Many generations of this tiny sucker can occur per summer. A complete generation can take less than a week during 90°F temperatures and without significant rainfall. That’s a lot of babies at 100 eggs per female!

The twospotted spider mite is the species that afflicts the burning bush. These mites will also feed on many other species when available including viburnum, roses, edible plants, perennials and houseplants. In full sun conditions (especially near hardscape like driveways or brick walls) you may see their webbing binding the leaves and even tiny mites moving within the web. This species of mite overwinters as adults in leaf litter and in soil. It's important to clean up and bag any fallen leaves in the fall so that you can reduce the population of these pests before they wake up next spring.

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Burning bush with spider mites

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The boxwood spider mite can only feed on boxwood species. This makes it a “host specific” species of spider mite and will not cause damage to any other plants in your landscape. This mite also differs from the twospotted spider mite in that it creates no webs, it feeds on the upper surface of the leaf as well as the bottom surface and it overwinters as eggs on the boxwood plant.

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Boxwood with spider mites

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If you want to check your plants for these "pepper sized" pests or suspect you may have a growing spider mite issue, the best way is to firmly smack the twig over a white piece of paper. Look closely and you may see tiny mites crawling on the paper.

As a preventative measure, it is a great idea to give both your burning bushes and boxwoods a heavy spray with your hose nozzle. Do this twice a week in hot, dry weather (over 85°F). Concentrate on the undersides of the leaves especially to attempt to dislodge adults and eggs.

Keeping your plants watered during the summer also really helps to curb serious infestations. If plants are stressed for water, they will be much more likely to become overrun with spider mites and also insect pests like scale, aphids and lacebug.

If you would like one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® to scout your landscape for spider mites and give you options to control these proliferous pests, please contact our office at (614) 895-7000 or request a free quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote. We offer many options to get spider mites under control and we will help determine the best course of action for your specific trees and shrubs! Have a great summer and make sure to keep yourself watered as well!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts

Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]

Deep Root Irrigation: Another way to water!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
July 18, 2024​

Every day over the last couple of weeks I have observed newly planted trees in parks, along streets, and in front yards dry up and lose all their leaves because they are not receiving adequate water. As the weather continues to heat up in central Ohio, this is the time of year to pay special attention to your newly planted trees (and shrubs) to ensure they do not dry out. All trees need water to healthily grow, photosynthesize, and be more resistant to pests and disease. However, newly planted trees (trees planted within the last 3 growing seasons) need extra watering help throughout this time of year because they have limited root systems and less access to moisture. Whether your new trees are deciduous, evergreen, big, small, or listed as a drought tolerant species, it must receive supplemental water this time of year.  

As a quick review, remember that watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of the newly planted trees. Traditionally, tree watering should be performed regularly, slowly, deeply and in the area with active feeder roots. For more detailed information on general watering practices check out my article and video on watering HERE! 

Today, I’d like to introduce a new tree watering service we are providing called Deep Root Irrigation (DRI).  DRI is intended to efficiently deliver water to tree roots that need special assistance getting adequate hydration. 

How Does Deep Root Irrigation Work?

With DRI, we use an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water six to eight inches deep into the root zone of the tree. Using the lance beneath the surface of the soil helps to bypass turf, groundcover, or weed roots and delivers the water directly to the root zone of the tree. 

An irrigation lance used for deep root irrigation.

Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.

The tip of an irrigation lance spraying water at about 200 psi in 4 separate streams.

Since the water is being injected directly into the root zone of the tree with no chance of run off, the water can be applied to the tree quickly as opposed to the longer, deeper soaking that is required with traditional tree watering that starts above the soil surface. With DRI we can thoroughly apply the recommended 10 gallons of water to a new planted 2 inch dbh (diameter at breast height) balled-and-burlapped tree in 2 to 3 minutes. The amount of recommended water for a tree will vary depending on the particular tree’s size, level of establishment, and planting site.  

ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel performing a deep root irrigation using an irrigation lance!

What Trees Benefit From Deep Root Irrigation?

While tree watering is essential for ALL trees, certain trees will benefit from deep root irrigation more than others such as:

• Newly planted trees in landscapes whose owners are away during the hot or dry seasons. A 2 week gap in watering is all it takes for a tree to dry out while it’s owners are enjoying vacation

• Newly planted trees that are not close to a watering source (park trees, street trees or trees inaccessible by hose)

• Established trees in restricted root zones (ex: parking lots or sidewalk cut outs)

• Trees that recently experienced soil compaction or root disturbance events

• Established trees that have recently received a root zone invigoration

• Trees experiencing stress from insect infestation or disease

• Over mature trees in the beginnings of decline

• Established trees during extreme periods of drought

How Often is Deep Root Irrigation Needed?

There is not a one size fits all answer to this question. Watering is essential to newly planted trees during most of the growing season (May through October). In general, a newly planted 2 inch dbh balled-and-burlapped tree should receive roughly 10 gallons of water once every 7 to 10 days. If you have newly planted trees that you regularly care for, but plan to be away for a short time on vacation during the growing season, DRI is likely to only be needed while you are away. If you have a large old tree that is in the beginnings of decline, a thorough DRI once a month during the summer months will go a long way to maintaining health and vigor. Every situation is different.

To request a quote, please visit RussellTreeExperts.com/quote or call us at 614-895-7000 and one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can help determine the best care for your trees!

DEEP ROOT IRRIGATION IN ACTION!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Your Friendly Neighborhood Spider-lift

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist®
June 27, 2024​

Our CMC 90HD+ Arbor Pro® tracked aerial lift, commonly referred to as a “spider lift,” is one of the most versatile, but misunderstood machines in our fleet. It is invaluable for working in tight spaces beyond the reach of more traditional equipment and can provide safer, more efficient working conditions for our arborists. 

As an ISA Certified Arborist® and regional manager at Russell Tree Experts, I want to highlight the benefits and limitations of this machine. At the end of this article is also a video showcasing our spider lift!

Specifications 

Over the last couple of years, we have used various spider lifts as part of our fleet, so the specifications can and will vary as time passes. Below are the specifications for our current CMC 90HD+ Arbor Pro®:

Our CMC 90HD+ Arbor Pro spider lift in action on a residential tree removal job in Westerville, Ohio

• Weight: 9,025 pounds

• Max Basket Load Capacity: 507 pounds

• Max Working Height: 90 feet

• Max Lateral Reach: 50 feet

• Multiple rotation, articulation, and telescoping boom points for flexible work positioning

• 360 degree operation

• Length: 22 feet, 3 Inches with basket or 19 feet, 10 inches without basket

• Extendable, non-marking, rubber tracks

• Width: 35 inches with tracks in, 55 inches with tracks extended

  • 35 inch width is great for squeezing past fence gates

  • 55 inch width is great for increased stability, especially during towing and transport

• Once in position, a footprint of approximately 14X20 feet is needed to extend the stabilizer legs and rotate the boom (hence the “spider” moniker)

• 3 points of operation by the tracks, in the bucket, and with a wireless remote control
  

Spider Lift USE Cases

Employing rigging techniques alongside our spider lift to remove this tree due to a small drop zone

• Drop zones too small for tree felling

• Spaces too small, soft, sensitive, or far away to reach with larger machines like bucket trucks, cranes, telescopic handlers, etc

• Trees too decayed, compromised, or dead (this has proven to be the most critical asset)

• Trees with significantly larger or wide canopies and/or multiple trees able to be reached with one or minimal setups

• Safer, quicker work positioning for less experienced or physically capable climbers

NON-IDEAL SPIDER LIFT SCENARIOS

Our team member Bodi in our spider lift!

• Steep slopes or uneven terrain - the spider lift is a long, heavy, narrow machine that can roll over! 

• Soft or sensitive work zones where turf impact and compaction is unacceptable. If the turf is soft due to rain, we may reschedule tree work for another, dryer day

  • Note: The spider lift will have less turf impact than a bucket truck or crane, but will leave a footprint nonetheless

• Near electrical hazards - Our buckets at this time are uninsulated and we will need to follow minimum approach distance (MAD)

• Small trees or large, nonintrusive work zones - getting the spider lift on and off the trailer and in to and out of its work position is a tedious process – a tree that can be climbed or felled safely in an hour or two is usually not worth the extra steps 

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We at Russell Tree Experts are constantly seeking new techniques and machines to make tree work as safe and low-impact as possible. While our spider lift isn’t a perfect solution, it provides us with another option to maximize efficiency and limit damage. As always, if you’re in the central Ohio area looking for tree work, please feel free to request a free tree inspection and quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®! You might even get to see the spider lift working on your own property!

Spider Lift Showcase

SPIDERLIFT TREE WORK VIDEOS

Sincerely,

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA certified arborist. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Bagworms: Why they are bad news & How to get rid of them

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 23, 2024​

A bagworm on a Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens)

Bagworms are a serious pest to a variety of ornamental plants in our landscapes. Bagworms are the caterpillars of a moth. These caterpillars are called “bagworms” because they wrap themselves in a bag constructed of material from their host plant. The bags camouflage the bagworms from predators as they feed and can also make effective treatments challenging. Understanding their life cycle, preferred host plants, feeding habits, and effective treatment methods are crucial for managing infestations and preserving the health of your plants. 

Life Cycle of Bagworms

Bagworms undergo a fascinating life cycle, transitioning through various stages from egg to adult moth. Let’s start with the hatching of the eggs and the main feeding stage. This is the stage that is the most noticeable and damaging to the host plant. Starting in early June into July, the larvae emerge hungry and begin constructing their protective cases using silk and surrounding plat materials. As they feed on foliage, they expand and reinforce their bags, incorporating leaves, twigs, and other debris to camouflage themselves and deter predators.    

After reaching maturity, which typically takes several weeks, the larvae stop feeding and prepare for pupation. Within the safety of their bags, they undergo metamorphosis, and the males emerge as adult moths and the female bagworm remains in the bag for mating. Once mated the female bagworm lays her eggs and their life cycle is over at this point. There can be as many as 500-1000 eggs. The eggs overwinter inside the dead female's bag and the cycle begins again in the spring.   

Feeding Habits

The larval stage of bagworm is the main feeding stage, consuming foliage from their host plants as they construct their protective bags. This feeding stage can last several weeks to a couple of months depending on environmental conditions and the availability of food sources. They use their silk threads to anchor themselves to branches or leaves, where they remain while feeding. As they consume foliage, they gradually defoliate the plant, weakening its overall health and potentially causing significant damage if left untreated. Complete defoliation often leads to plant death. Once the bagworm reaches maturity, they quit feeding and focus on mating.   

Main Host Plants

Bagworms are known to infest a wide range of host plants. Some of the most common host plants for bagworms include:  

• Evergreens: Arborvitae, juniper, cedar, pine, spruce, and cypress are often targeted by bagworms, which can cause severe damage to these trees if left unchecked.  

• Deciduous Trees: Bagworms may also infest deciduous trees such as honey locust, oak, maple, sycamore, willow, and poplar, feeding on their leaves and weakening the overall health of the tree.  

• Ornamental Shrubs: Boxwood, azalea, holly, and other ornamental shrubs are susceptible to bagworm infestations, which can defoliate and disfigure these plants if not addressed promptly.  

While bagworms are adaptable and may infest various plant species, their preference for evergreen trees is most common.  

Colorado blue spruce with bagworms

Twig dieback due to bagworms

Treatment Options 

Managing bagworm infestations can be done in a few ways - culturally, mechanically, or with chemical control methods. The most effective strategy will depend on the severity of the infestation and the size of the plants that are being treated. The following are some effective strategies for treating bagworm infestations:  

• Handpicking: In smaller infestations, manually removing bags from affected plants can be an effective control method. Simply pluck the bags from the branches and dispose of them properly to attempt to prevent future infestations.  You can throw them in the trash or burn them.

• Biological Control: Introducing natural predators of bagworms, such as parasitic wasps, or predatory insects, can help reduce populations naturally without the need for chemical intervention. (Flowers with lots of nectar can attract these predator insects). I like this method but do not recommend relying on it for managing heavily infested plants.

• Insecticides: Applying two well timed insecticide sprays spaced two weeks apart has been the most effective way to control bagworms. Applying the product early while the larva is feeding and in the initial stages of making their bag is essential. Once they have constructed a bag around their bodies, insecticides are far less effective.

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Bagworms may be small but their impact on plants can be quite serious. The damage is not obvious early in the season because the caterpillars and their bags are small, and the bags can be difficult to see until large numbers are present. Bagworms often are not detected by the untrained observer until August after severe defoliation has occurred. Getting to the plants early and detecting a problem can save a lot of headaches. At Russell Tree Experts we are trained to spot bagworms and use the OSU phenology calendar to properly time applications for effective control. 

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Tree Preservation Videos!

Sincerely,

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Be Alert: Lecanium Scale

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 16, 2024​

“What is wrong with my tree?”

This is a question we receive on a daily basis. Sometimes it is obvious what is going on with your tree, but other times it may require a more thorough investigation. Many of the more obvious tree problems can be the result of mechanical, environmental or disease problems. However, the issue that I am writing about today is insect related, which often is less noticeable until populations get out of hand and start to cause damage. One such insect that can cause significant damage to trees this time of year is the European fruit lecanium scale. This is just one of many types of scale, so proper identification is a must as most scale insects have different life cycles and different control recommendations.

Female lecanium scale

Lecanium scale is considered a soft scale with a wide host range. In central Ohio, trees that are most affected by this insect are callery pear, crabapple, and fruit trees; although we do occasionally see infestations in birch,  honeylocust, oak, and hickory trees. Lecanium scale is most noticeable when the females fill up with eggs. Over 1,000 eggs can be produced by one female. This is why the insect can get out of control quickly if left unnoticed and untreated.

Scale typically overwinter as second instar nymphs on the bark of trees. This stage is sometimes hard to notice, unless there are dead females from the previous year present at the same time. As your plants begin to break bud and leaf out in the early spring, this is when lecanium scale starts to feed. As the females feed and start to produce eggs, you’ll can easily see the large bump like structures on the stems of infested trees. You may also notice honeydew starting to drip from the branches as well. The honeydew on heavily infested trees can make everything under the tree very sticky. This attracts many other insects like flies, wasps, and ants. It also supports the growth of a black sooty mold, which can negatively affect plant growth as well. The eggs typically hatch in early to mid-June coinciding with the bloom of the Washington hawthorn tree in Ohio. This is called the crawler stage when the eggs hatch and crawl out to the leaves to begin feeding. This is the time when lecanium scale are at their most vulnerable stage. After feeding through the summer, the insect returns to the bark to overwinter.

Second-instar nymphs that overwintered on the tree stems. Note white waxy covering beginning to form. Scales are in their final fixed position, actively feeding and growing. Note droplets of honeydew here and there.

Each of these nymphs will mature into adult females that will be about 10 times their current size by the time they lay their clutch of 100 or more eggs.

This is a new infestation. An old infestation would also have the dead female bodies of last year’s adults alongside the current generation. They would be dark brown and about the size of BBs used for air gun ammunition.

There are many natural predators that feed on lecanium scale, but generally there are not enough to control large populations. This is when treatment options are beneficial. Every situation is different and may require different treatment strategies. Our ISA Certified Arborists® can visit your property and determine the best course of action.  

The most effective way to keep lecanium scale out of your landscape is to avoid planting host plants like crabapples, weeping cherry and callery pear. Keeping plants healthy, vigorous and stress free will also help to reduce the likelihood that lecanium scale takes up residence in your trees. If lecanium scale do make their way into your landscape, two well timed topical insecticide sprays on the crawler stage can help reduce and keep the population at a threshold that damage to the tree is minimal. On very small trees, adults can be removed and destroyed by hand before the eggs hatch.

If you think lecanium scale is a problem on your tree, please give us a call and one of our ISA Certified Arborists® will come out to inspect your landscape and provide the best course of action!

CHECK OUT THESE ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Tree Care Videos!

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

My Journey: Becoming an ISA Certified Arborist®!

By Enrique Arayata
May 9, 2024

When I started working at Russell Tree Experts as a video production intern (and now media production coordinator), I had no significant knowledge of arboriculture apart from taking courses in environmental science and world of plants in college. I graduated with an associate’s degree in web graphic design from DeVry University in 2018 and with a bachelor's degree in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art with a specialization in photography from The Ohio State University in 2023 and there’s quite a stark contrast between cameras and trees. One of my notable follies is that an “acorn tree” is not a thing and that it is the genus Quercus that produces acorns. I have also been judged for the Colorado blue spruce tree being my favorite tree since it is not native to Columbus and is susceptible to rhizosphaera needle cast. Luckily, throughout my almost 5 years now of working here, I have picked up various things along the way from talking with coworkers, attending meetings and training sessions, researching for a video, and more!

However, now that I have completed school and have some additional free time outside of work, I have decided to take on my next challenge and study to become an ISA Certified Arborist®! To become an ISA Certified Arborist®, one must have at least 3 years of documentable experience in the tree industry (or a combination of formal education and practical arboriculture experience) and must pass the ISA Certified Arborist® Exam with at least a 76% or higher. To learn more about what it takes to become an ISA Certified Arborist®, check out this Arbor Ed article written by my fellow coworker (and ISA Certified Arborist®) Lindsey Rice or visit ISA’s website here.

In my personal life, I try to always be curious, open-minded, and willing to learn and improve, so attaining my ISA Certified Arborist® credential feels like a good, natural next step in my career! Throughout this journey, I hope to expand my knowledge of arboriculture which will help me produce better photos, videos, or written content like social media captions or Arbor Ed articles! I would consider earning this certification a success if I can learn more about arboriculture and be able to use my position and platform here at Russell Tree Experts to spread more knowledge to people that would inevitably lead to better and more informed care of our trees and environment. I do not have a strict target date for when I take the ISA certified arborist exam but as of the time of writing this article, I am currently on chapter 5 out of 16 in my study guide (the 4th Edition Arborists’ Certification Study Guide). So far in my 82 pages of studying, there have already been many important details and interesting facts that I have learned that can go a long way in ensuring the best long-term health for your tree. Below are just a few of many!

Leaves are Life

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Leaves are important! Leaves are considered the “food factories” of a tree and have two important roles. First, leaves have cells with chloroplasts. Chloroplasts contain a great pigment known as chlorophyll which is the main leaf pigment that absorbs sunlight. Energy from the sun is collected in the chloroplasts for photosynthesis which converts the energy from sunlight into carbohydrates which is then used by the tree for growth and other processes within the tree. The second function of leaves is transpiration, which is the loss of water through a tree’s foliage in the form of water vapor, which in turn cools the leaf. Transpiration draws water up through the xylem from the roots. This is important for cooling a tree as this is essentially how evaporation occurs for a tree. Transpiration is also the driving force for water from the roots to travel up and through the tree to the shoots for growth. Transpiration is moderated by stomata, which are small openings commonly found on a leaf’s underside which controls the loss of water vapor and gas exchange by opening and closing like a door or gate. 

Root for Your Roots

Roots are also important! They play four key roles in a tree with anchorage, storage, absorption, and conduction. Anchorage is a tree’s ability to stay anchored to the ground so that they do not fall over during adverse weather conditions. Storage is a tree’s ability to store water and nutrients that can be used in the future, such as during the winter months when nutrients might be scarce. Absorption is a tree’s ability to uptake minerals and water. Conduction is a tree’s ability to distribute food and water throughout other parts of the tree like in leaves and stems.

Supportive Soil

For some trees such as maples and oaks, iron and/or manganese deficiency in higher pH soils can lead to chlorosis, the yellowing or whitening of leaves. This is a symptom of a tree not functioning properly. This is one example of why having the proper pH for a tree is important.

Soil is more complex than you may think! Soil is generally composed of 3 materials: clay, silt, and sand. The percentage content of each of these 3 particles determine a large number of factors ranging from the soil’s physical properties like pore space, texture, structure, and bulk density, chemical properties like pH, buffering capacity, and cation exchange capacity (CEC), and biological properties like water holding capacity, food web, and more. All of these different properties are important because if they are not ideal or paired correctly with a particular species of a tree, its growth may be hindered, or the tree may even fail. Two examples are: (1) unideal soil pH can cause nutrient deficiency, and (2) soil compaction can inhibit water flow and gas exchange. Soil has its own diverse ecosystem commonly referred to as a soil food web containing fungi, bacteria, small mammals, earthworms, millipedes, mites, and other insects and organisms that are directly and indirectly beneficial to trees. Collectively, they help to maintain soil structure, decompose organic matter, and aid in nutrient cycling and nutrient mineralization which, to make a long topic short, helps make nutrients available for roots and trees.

Wealth in Water

Water is arguably the most important factor when it comes to a tree’s health. Leaves need water to perform photosynthesis. Roots are important for a tree so that it can uptake water and nutrients. Soil is important so it can hold and provide water for trees. With that said, too much of a good thing can be bad. Trees have adapted to their environment and some trees near coastlines or swamps are thirstier for more water in comparison to trees that have adapted to arid regions like deserts. Drought and heat can cause leaf scorch and leaf drop, twig dieback, or even tree death. Flooding and overwatering can lead to leaf discoloration, defoliation, and crown dieback. It is important to research the tree (or trees) you are considering planting and figure out its water needs. Your local nursery or online resources from colleges, nurseries, laboratories, and more can be helpful! Tools such as bubblers, sprinklers, slow-release watering buckets, soil probes, electronic moisture sensors, and tensiometers can be beneficial in monitoring and adjusting soil moisture. There are also strategies to better manage water for a tree like xeriscaping, the designing a landscape of drought tolerant plants, minimum irrigation, the providing of the minimum amount of water to maintain and not prohibit a tree’s health, growth, and appearance, and hydrozoning, the grouping plants and trees of similar water needs and irrigating on the same schedule. One interesting fact I learned is that recycled or reclaimed water from your home’s water supply can commonly be high in salts and other chemicals which can raise a soil’s pH. Depending on what is planted, this may be a nonissue, but for trees that prefer a slightly acidic soil, this can be a big problem. Learning more about your trees and plants and performing a test on your soil and/or water can be beneficial for you and your trees’ success!

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There are so many important details that I have learned (and not mentioned because I would be here all day) about trees that are essential for their long-term health and survival. Above are just a few pieces of information that I found particularly interesting or useful! I plan on continuing my studies and will provide another update or two with more important details about trees that you might be able to apply to your tree’s maintenance. In the meantime, enjoy your landscape and the upcoming spring weather!

Check out these Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Coordinator, Russell Tree Experts

In his free time, Enrique enjoys working out, hanging out with his girlfriend, video production and photography, cars, technology, cooking, and watching new movies and YouTube videos. He has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University, and is an FAA Certified Remote Pilot.

Rhizosphaera Needle Cast: Causes, Symptoms, and Management

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 2, 2024​

Rhizosphaera needle cast is a fungal disease that affects various species of coniferous trees, particularly spruces throughout central Ohio and the midwest, and has become increasingly common. This disease can cause significant damage to tree health and aesthetics if left untreated. Understanding its causes, symptoms, and management strategies is crucial for preventing its spread and minimizing its impact on host trees in your landscape. Rhizosphaera needle cast, or needle cast for short, is primarily caused by the fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii. This fungus thrives in humid and wet conditions, which Ohio is seeing more and more of now. Spores of the fungus are spread through water splash, wind, and contaminated pruning tools, facilitating its transmission from infected to healthy trees. Colorado blue spruce trees (Picea pungens) is especially vulnerable due to the fact that they much prefer dry, arid environments like in Colorado and Utah.

A young Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) rapidly defoliating

Symptoms

The symptoms of needle cast typically appear on older needles first and progress upwards through the tree. Common symptoms to look out for are:

• Needle Discoloration: Infected needles initially develop yellow or light green spots, which gradually turn brown or purple-ish brown as the disease progresses.

• Needle Dropping: Infected needles may prematurely drop from the tree, leading to sparse foliage and an overall thinning of the canopy.

• Black Fruiting Bodies: Under close inspection, black fruiting bodies (spores) of the fungus may be visible on the surface of infected needles, particularly during humid conditions. This shows up as very fine black peppering found on the underside of the needles.

Black fruiting bodies (spores) of the fungus fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii on the surface of infected needles

Effective management strategies of Rhizosphaera needle cast involves a combination of cultural practices, chemical control, and preventive measures.  

Cultural Practices

• Proper Tree Spacing: Ensuring adequate spacing between trees promotes good air circulation, reducing humidity levels and minimizing fungal growth.

• Pruning: Prune infected branches to improve air circulation within the canopy and remove sources of fungal spores. Also, lightly elevating the canopy of a tree above the ground can help increase airflow.

• Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of trees to retain soil moisture and reduce stress, which can help trees resist fungal infections. 
  

Chemical Control

Apply fungicidal sprays containing active ingredients such as chlorothalonil or copper hydroxide during the spring months as new growth is emerging. Multiple applications in 10 to 14-day intervals applied annually are most effective, however, there is no end-all cure for this fungal disease.

Preventive Measures

• Monitoring: Regularly inspect trees for early signs of infection, especially during periods of high humidity.

• Water Management: Avoid overhead watering and excessive irrigation, as these practices can create ideal conditions for fungal growth. Water trees in the morning to avoid foliage staying wet overnight.

• Plant Selection: Some other options that may be suitable for your landscape include, but are not limited to: Concolor fir (if you desire the silvery blue color), Norway spruce, green giant arborvitae, and Canadian hemlock.  

Purple-ish brown needles

Rhizosphaera needle cast poses a significant threat to the health and vitality of coniferous trees, particularly Colorado blue spruce. By understanding the causes, symptoms, and management strategies associated with this fungal disease I hope that you will, as a Colorado blue spruce owner, help keep these beautiful trees healthy. Through a combination of cultural practices, chemical controls, and preventive measures, it is possible to mitigate the impact of Rhizosphaera needle cast and preserve the beauty and ecological value of our coniferous forests and landscapes. Please reach out to Russell Tree Experts if you suspect your trees are infected or need advice on proper maintenance as our ISA Certified Arborists® (myself included) are happy to take a look! Have a happy summer and we look forward to helping you with your trees!

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

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