6 Harmful Pruning Methods for Trees

By Enrique Arayata

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 4th, 2025

Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches, buds, and roots from a tree. Pruning is a common and necessary form of tree maintenance that can be beneficial or detrimental to a tree’s health depending on the location and quantity of the cuts. Poor pruning practices will decrease the health and vigor of a tree and increase the likelihood of structural failure or even worse, tree death. More specifically, improper tree pruning can lead to unaesthetic appearances, stunted growth, insect and disease susceptibility, compromised structure, poor branching habits, decayed and damaged limbs, and property damage due to limb failure. On the flip side, proper pruning practices can increase a tree’s aesthetics, health, and longevity, allowing it to be a beautiful sight for sore eyes instead of a headache for the owner. 

The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned! To learn more about the benefits and use cases of tree pruning, read here for my previous ARBOR ED™ article on the importance of tree pruning! 

An example of tree topping.

1. TREE PRUNING

One of the most harmful pruning mistakes is tree topping. Tree topping is the removal of entire top-ends of tree stems, sometimes including the central leader, regardless of the stem’s health. Often times, healthy stems with plenty of green leaves are removed during tree topping. The thought behind this is to increase light visibility for grass or plants below the tree, to control a tree’s size, and/or to shape a tree to the owner’s liking. However, tree topping can have serious long-term consequences. Tree topping looks aesthetically unpleasing due to many leaves and greenery being removed from the tree. When topping a mature tree, the topped stem could be large enough to where it is difficult for the tree to properly compartmentalize and close the wound, which is basically an open-door invitation for insect and disease issues. Compartmentalization in layman’s terms is how a tree heals, closes, and recovers from a wound. When large branches are removed, trees will respond by growing small, skinny shoots known as watersprouts that are poorly attached to the trunk. These shoots often grow on the interior of a tree in an upright behavior. They are often weakly attached to the tree and are prone to breakage if they mature large enough. This poses a structural, safety risk for nearby items like concrete, houses, cars, and more. With the removal of much of the tree's canopy, this will reduce its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. The tree may experience severe stress, making the tree more prone to insect and disease issues. 

An example of lion tailing.

2. LION TAILING

Lion tailing is the removal of a majority of the interior or lower branches of a tree stem or an entire tree. This leaves foliage clustered at a branch’s end, similar to the appearance of a lion’s tail. Lion tailing often occurs due to improper pruning practices like tree thinning and general over pruning. This type of tree pruning can often result in weakened branch structure or load failure, causing the limb to break. Two additional consequences of lion tailing are the production of watersprouts and an increased risk of sunburned bark tissue. Lastly, lion tailed trees have less leaves for photosynthesis and will often result in general stress due to a nutrient deficiency.  

A subtle example of excessive pruning. Note the small amount of interior branches that is uncharacteristic of honeylocust trees.

3. EXCESSIVE PRUNING

Another common tree care mistake is excessive tree pruning, which occurs when too many branches are removed in one session, or when a tree is over-pruned over a small range of time. While it might seem like pruning a tree heavily will promote its health, in reality, it often does more harm than good. Pruning removes leaves, and leaves are the primary site for photosynthesis. Without enough leaves, a tree struggles to produce the energy it needs to thrive. This leaves it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses like sun scorch and drought. Over-pruned trees are often stunted in growth and will develop the same watersprouts mentioned earlier. The exact amount of pruning for a tree is often debated because there is no definitive answer. The general rule of thumb is to identify the purpose of pruning a tree and to prune as little as necessary to achieve the desired outcome. Common reasons to prune a tree are to reduce risk, improve or restore structure, provide clearance, manage crown size, or to remove dead or diseased limbs. If the reason for pruning can be accomplished with just a few pruning cuts, then there is no need to over prune. 

4. INCORRECT PRUNING CUTS AND LOCATIONS

There are many ways that a specific, individual pruning cut can be incorrect and harmful to a tree, so much so that a short book could be written. As a brief, condensed overview, a cut can be improper if it is at an unideal location on a stem or if it was performed using an improper tool. Using a dull or rusty tool can lead to improper cuts that the tree cannot compartmentalize properly. A proper, finished cut should have a smooth surface without jagged edges or torn bark. These defects could create a vulnerable location for insect or disease problems.  

Choosing the right pruning tool is important. Most folks would not use a chainsaw to prune a bonsai tree. Trust me, I’ve tried, and it didn’t work out well (for me or the bonsai tree). Jokes aside, there are often gray areas where limbs could be pruned with smaller tools such as loppers or pruning shears, but a handsaw or chainsaw would be more effective and leave a cleaner cut. 

Even if a clean pruning cut has been made, it could be at the wrong location and cause increased compartmentalization time, leaving the tree exposed to potential insect or disease problems for a longer period of time. A pruning cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area around the underside/base of a tree branch where it meets the trunk of a tree. The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of bark above a branch union that forms as a result of the trunk and stem connecting, thus pushing the bark into a ridge. Together, the branch bark ridge and branch collar have special tissues that assist in a tree’s compartmentalization response to a pruning wound and to defend that wound from infection. It is important not to damage either of these when making a pruning cut.

5. INSECT AND DISEASE PROBLEMS

Pruning is an excellent maintenance technique to minimize the risk of insect and disease problems for a tree. If you just have a couple of small limbs with decay or unwanted insect pests, they can simply be pruned off. When it comes to an entire tree suffering from a disease or infested with a pest, it is best to have it inspected by an ISA Certified Arborist® to determine the best course of action. Timing is important when it comes to preventing disease and insect pests. There are many tree species with known pest or disease issues that can be minimized through proper pruning at a certain time of year. Two important examples in central Ohio are the pruning of oak and elm trees between October 15th and March 31st to minimize the risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease. 

6. UNIDEAL TIMING

Timing, both frequency and time of year, are important when it comes to tree pruning. Pruning at an improper time of the year can result in stress and stunted growth. A good, general rule of thumb to maximize growth is to prune a tree just before buds begin to swell, typically around late winter/early spring. Oppositely, pruning a tree around late spring or early summer could cause a tree to grow a little slower, which could be beneficial in an urban or tightly spaced setting. Some trees in temperate settings are best pruned during the active growing season in the middle of spring and summer to maximize the speed of wound closure. Pruning during drought-like conditions such as an unusually hot and dry August should be minimized as a tree is less likely to compartmentalize the wound quickly, potentially leading to decay. An ISA Certified Arborist® working in their local area will be familiar with common, native trees and their preferred pruning window. 

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Proper tree pruning is a delicate balance between art and science. While pruning may be done to improve a tree’s aesthetics, it is important to prioritize its health over its looks as a dead tree is an unaesthetic tree. If possible, avoid any and all of the improper pruning mistakes mentioned in this article such as tree topping, lion tailing, excessive pruning, improper cuts, and incorrect timing to ensure that your trees remain healthy and beautiful! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

How to Protect Trees Before, During, & After Heavy Construction!

By Cody Gray
January 23, 2025

What is soil compaction and how can this affect the trees growing on your property? In this article we are going to cover the “do’s” and “don’ts” during the construction process to avoid soil compaction on the property. We’ll also be peeking into soil science as well as ways to regain healthy soil composition.  

Soil compaction is caused when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space. Think of this like making a snowball - as you take a scoop of snow and press it together, it becomes hard and dense. The previously light and fluffy snow is now firm and sheds water. The same phenomenon is true with soil. As these particles are pressed together, air and water become scarce. With reduced pore space, water infiltration is much slower, and drainage becomes increasingly poor and insufficient. In addition to the soil’s inability to move and drain water, the exchange of gases is slowed down significantly. In poorly drained soils, the composition can turn hard and arid, causing a tree’s penetrating roots to struggle in seeking water.  

Compacted Soil

Porous Soil

Wooded lots offer extremely beautiful home sites. However, if approached improperly from start to finish, what could have been a serene place to kick your feet up at the end of a long day can slowly turn into a hazardous environment full of dead and declining trees. It’s no secret that heavy equipment is used to clear plots of land for both residential and commercial purposes. These pieces of equipment are often heavy and can cause substantial damage to the soil composition when extra care is not taken. However, there are ways to protect the trees you desire to keep if you are aware of some basic tree biology. In terms of spread, a tree’s roots mostly occupy the canopy drip line of a tree. The canopy drip line of a tree is the outermost circumference of the tree’s canopy in relation to the ground. A tree’s roots occupy this entire area and often extend two to four times the radius of the drip line. In terms of depth, most tree roots can be found in the first six to twenty-four inches of soil. This is important to know because this is where long-term root damage can occur if proper preventative measures are not taken. 

A video example of a land clearing project for a new construction home. Heavy equipment was used and soil was likely compacted.

When selecting the building site, it is important to choose an area as far away from the preserved trees as possible. However, at times this may not be possible due to the lot layout, construction needs, etc. There are ways to improve the likelihood of saving these trees inside of the construction zone. Setting up a tree protection zone can be accomplished by protecting the drip edge of the tree you plan to save. The idea is to minimize or prevent any travel of heavy equipment over this area to protect the tree’s valuable roots. One of the most effective ways to protect this precious area is by using T-posts, zip ties and a few rolls of orange barrier fence often referred to as a “snow fence”. The first step in this process is to walk out and mark the approximate drip edge of the tree. You can use orange marking paint on the ground if this helps. Next you will need to drive a T-post every four to five feet around the circumference of the drip line. Once you have traced the entire drip line of the tree, you will begin stringing your orange barrier fence and zip-tying it to your T-posts. This process is simple yet effective for keeping people as well as machines away from the root zone. Additionally, this will help limit the potential for damage to the trunk of the tree. If access is an issue and you are unable to successfully barricade the drip edge of the tree, another option is to use some sort of matting. This can be done with many different products. The simplest form of matting is plywood but whatever solution you use, this significantly reduces ground pressure, which reduces the effects of soil compaction.  

Tree Protection Zone!

Following the construction process, it is important to do a final walkthrough to determine if the grade has been changed. Any excess fill that may have been added inside of a tree’s canopy drip line should be minimized or avoided completely. A very small amount of fill used to fill in tiny divots or to lightly level the lawn is okay and unlikely to cause serious damage. A significant amount of excess fill or grade change can cause reduced oxygen and water infiltration for a tree's roots. A tell-tale sign is soil buildup around the root flare of the tree trunk. You can also take before-and-after photos and compare. If excess soil is present, it is important to remove it as soon as possible. The effects of soil compaction are not immediately noticed and often take months or years before it becomes apparent that something may be wrong. Unfortunately, by the time you notice that a tree is in decline, it is likely too late. Some key characteristics to look for include loss of leaves and premature leaf discoloration during the summer months as well as dead and decaying branches. It is not uncommon for one of our ISA Certified Arborists® to inspect a property containing a declining tree due to construction or renovation that occurred months or years in the past. Oftentimes this is discovered through a quick conversation with the property owner or when observing soil that is either compacted or covering a tree trunk’s root flare. 

There are ways to improve soil composition following compaction if it is caught quickly. One of the most effective ways is by using an air-spade. An air spade is a tool that uses compressed air to loosen the soil around the tree’s roots. An arborist will push the tool into the ground around the tree’s root system and force air into the compressed soil, causing the pore space to increase. This is a non-invasive way to expose the roots to much needed water, oxygen, and nutrients. Another simple yet effective way to help with previous soil compaction is to mulch a tree. Removing 2 to 4 inches below ground level and backfilling with porous mulch can minimize the impact of soil compaction. There are also many benefits to mulching beyond just increased pore space.  

Porous (Left) vs. Compacted (Right)

In conclusion, remember to pick a building site that requires as little tree removal as possible. If there is a tree that is in question, it is much easier to remove the tree prior to construction and it will often cost less to do so. Complete a walkthrough with your contractors, express your concerns for the trees you plan on saving, and be certain to create your tree protection zone(s). This will take a little time in the beginning of the project but can end up saving thousands of dollars over the years to come. If you follow these steps and still end up with some soil compaction, don’t fret as there are still options. Reach out to your local arborists and inquire about air spading, tree mulch ring installations, frequent watering, or other plant healthcare options that might be recommended after an inspection. I can assure you that if you take the time in the early stages of the land clearing and construction process, the survival rate of your trees will increase significantly. If you are interested in a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Cody Gray I Senior Division Supervisor, Russell Tree Experts

Cody Gray is our Environmental Division Senior Division Supervisor and has been at RTE since 2016. He has worked around trees since 2013. He graduated from Hocking College with a major in forestry and is certified with aerial rescue, EHAT, first aid, CPR, and OSHA30. In his free time, Cody is an avid outdoorsman and enjoys spending time with his family. His favorite tree is the white oak because of their exceptional durability, beautiful grain patterns, and longevity.

It’s Easy as G-D-D (Growing Degree Days)

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
January 9, 2025

If you are a client of Russell Tree Experts and have us care for your trees, you’ve likely heard us use the term “growing degree day” or GDD. The concept of a growing degree day is basically how many units of heat have been accumulated within a 24-hour period. Any day with a mean temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperature) over the “threshold temperature” of 50 degrees, growing degree days are accumulated. A threshold temperature is a temperature at which a specific plant or insect can progress in its development or life cycle. Different organisms have different base temperatures; however, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered acceptable for all plants and insects.

Calculating growing degree days can be complex to varying degrees. The simplest method is to subtract the base temperature from the mean temperature for the day and then add it to the previous day's growing degree day total.

Example:

It is April 11th. The average temperature is 61 degrees. Yesterday, the running total of GDD was 214. Subtracting the base temperature of 50 from the mean temperature of 61 degrees, we would arrive at 11 degrees. We would add that to yesterday's running total (214+11), and today’s current GDD is 225.

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What information can we learn from knowing the growing degree day? Plant experts and entomologists have observed that the accumulation of heat causes development to proceed. For any given insect, its eggs will hatch, or an adult will emerge at precisely the same growing degree day every year. The date can vary from year to year since the temperature is not the same every day of the year. Below is a graphic of the growing degree day on the same date, April 11th, for the past fourteen years.

(https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/summary.asp):  

Since we know that plants and insects do the same thing on the same approximate GDD every year (not necessarily on the same date), we also know when to apply certain treatments for optimal effectiveness. Additionally, we can use plants as a “phenological indicator” to understand when certain insects will be active. Using our example of April 11th and GDD of 225, Serviceberry (GDD 219) and Common Chokecherry (GDD 221) should both be in full bloom. Various adult leafminers will also be emerging around this time (birch leafminer – GDD 215, elm leafminer – GDD 219, alder leafminer – GDD 224).

Some people have even taken it further and planted phenological gardens! Farmers have used this practice for centuries to know when to plant certain crops and vegetables and when to look for specific pests. Here are a few rules of thumb:

• Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms

• Plant peas when forsythia blooms

• Plant radishes and spinach when crocus is in bloom

• Plant carrots and beets when daffodils bloom

• Plant bush beans when apple trees bloom

• Plant annual flowers and squashes when lilacs are in full bloom

These were developed as a way of measuring growing degree days before the formal calculation of growing degree days existed, but they achieved similar results.

Entomologists work hard daily to figure out the growing degree day of certain active insects and pests to improve “best practices” observed in horticulture and arboriculture. One insect we are watching closely is the nitidulid beetle. These beetles have been known to carry a fungus that causes oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease of oak trees. As we learn more about these beetles, we can implement more effective management practices to ensure the safety of everyone’s oak trees! For now, we go off of the best information available to us. You can learn more how Russell Tree Experts handles oak wilt by reading here!

I am proud to be part of the arboriculture industry. The industry is very receptive to better and new information as knowledge is developed and discovered. The world is evolving and I’m happy that Russell Tree Experts prides itself on keeping up with the times and staying well-informed on essential tree issues. As we learn more, we will share with you all as well. As always, thank you for your time, and I hope you all do your best to be a tree advocate in your community. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ON GROWING DEGREE DAYS

The Ohio State University: https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/glossary.asp

Smithsonian Gardens: https://gardens.si.edu/learn/blog/gardening-guided-by-phenology/

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A

The Sugar Maple

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 12, 2024​

The sugar maple tree (Acer saccharum) is one of my favorite trees and a beloved symbol of North American forests, renowned for its beauty and many uses. It is native across southern Canada, the midwest, and the northeastern US states. Known for its vibrant autumn colors, sweet sap, and high-quality timber, the sugar maple plays an essential role in the natural landscape, urban forest, economy, and cultural heritage of the northeastern United States.

The sugar maple tree grows best in hardiness zones 3 through 8. It has a slow-to-medium growth speed and will grow to a mature height of 60 to 75 feet with a mature width of 40 to 50 feet. Sugar maple trees grow well in well-drained soil and in partial sun, but will perform best in full sun conditions.

The sugar maple is one of the most visually captivating trees, especially during the fall when its leaves turn to brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Each autumn, forests, yards, and parks where sugar maples grow become vibrant canvases of color. Beyond its autumn display, the sugar maple brings beauty throughout the year. In spring, delicate clusters of yellow-green flowers bloom, signaling the arrival of warmer weather. By summer, the tree’s broad canopy offers cool, welcoming shade, making it a favorite in parks along streets and in backyards. Even in winter, when its branches are bare, the sugar maple’s ovular architecture is a beautiful sight.

The sugar maples in my backyard are a constant source of joy to my family and me; my kids often collect the autumn leaves and we all appreciate the cool shade it provides during hot summer afternoons where we play with our dog.

The sugar maple’s value extends far beyond its visual appeal. It is also a tree of exceptional utility, benefiting industries and ecosystems. The sugar maple is the lifeblood of the maple syrup industry, which is both economically and culturally significant. In early spring, when temperatures fluctuate between freezing at night and above freezing during the day, sap begins to flow within the tree. This sap is collected through taps and boiled down to produce pure maple syrup. It takes about 40 gallons of sap to produce just one gallon of syrup, making the process both labor-intensive and rewarding. Sharing the resulting syrup with my family is a tradition whether drizzled on pancakes or used to sweeten a good recipe. I like to mix two tablespoons of maple syrup with a teaspoon of dijon mustard, ¼ teaspoon of dried thyme, and 1 clove of garlic, minced, for an excellent glaze on chicken or ham.

Sugar maple is also valuable for its timber. Known as "hard maple," its wood is highly durable with a dense grain that makes it resistant to wear. This strength makes sugar maple wood a popular choice for furniture, cabinetry, and flooring. It is especially favored for high-traffic areas such as gymnasiums and basketball courts where durability is crucial.

In addition to its strength, sugar maple wood is renowned for its beauty. Patterns like "curly" and "birdseye" maple — unique grain formations that resemble ripples or tiny eyes — are highly sought after by woodworkers. Musical instruments including violins, guitars, and pianos, are often crafted from maple wood due to its aesthetic appeal and due to the wood’s density enhancing sound quality.

Birdseye Maple Wood Pattern

Curly Maple Wood Pattern

The sugar maple also contributes to the health of ecosystems in numerous ways. Its dense canopy provides shelter for birds, mammals, and insects, while its seeds and buds serve as food for creatures such as squirrels and deer. In autumn, when the tree drops its leaves, the organic matter enriches the soil, promoting healthy plant growth.

Note the fall foliage containing greens, reds, oranges, and yellows!

The tree also plays a critical role in water regulation as its roots absorb rainfall and reduce runoff, helping to prevent flooding. Forests dominated by sugar maple trees stabilize soil and prevent erosion, especially on slopes and riverbanks. The tree’s ability to thrive in well-drained, fertile soils makes it a reliable indicator of a healthy forest.

While sugar maple is a great tree for aesthetics and practicality, it is now facing significant threats due to changing weather patterns and climate shifts. The species thrives in cool climates with predictable seasons and the recent shift in temperatures, along with changes in precipitation, is making it harder for sugar maple trees to survive and reproduce in many areas. Sugar maple trees require cold winters to produce sap. The ideal conditions for sap flow — freezing nights followed by warmer days — are becoming less consistent as winters grow shorter and warmer. Without these precise temperature swings, sap production is also decreasing, directly impacting the maple syrup industry. 

Rising temperatures are also forcing the sugar maple’s growing range to shift northward. Areas that were once ideal habitats for the tree are becoming too warm or dry, while colder regions farther north are now better suited to support new growth. This gradual shift threatens the cultural and economic identity of communities that have long relied on sugar maple forests. Scientists predict that if current trends continue, sugar maple trees may disappear from parts of their southern range, such as Ohio, Pennsylvania and New Jersey, within the next century.

Additionally, the increase in frequency and intensity of droughts have been particularly damaging to sugar maple. While the tree prefers moist, well-drained soils, extended periods of drought weaken its root system and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Invasive pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and certain fungi have expanded their range into sugar maple forests. These pests can cause severe damage (and often tree death), weakening the trees and making them more vulnerable to environmental stresses. Fortunately, the Asian longhorned beetle has not been found in central Ohio, highlighting the importance of maintaining strict quarantine zones and monitoring programs. Preventing its spread is crucial to protecting the region’s sugar maples (as well as several additional native genera) and the ecosystems and industries they support.

Russell Tree Experts offers a range of tree services to help preserve your sugar maple trees, including health assessments to identify stress factors, pest and disease management to help mitigate threats, and soil care programs to improve root resilience. With expert pruning, deep-root fertilization, and a detailed plan, we can attempt to mitigate these challenges. For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Guide to Choosing the Right Christmas Tree for You!

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 5, 2024​

Thanksgiving has come and gone and with that comes the mad dash to prepare for Christmas. Gift shopping, meal prepping, decorating, and Christmas tree buying are just a few of the many tasks leading up to the holiday season. This article is to help ease your stress when picking out a tree so that you can stay jolly throughout December. We all want a tree that would make Clark Griswald proud. Picking out the wrong Christmas tree and not properly caring for it can result in a “Charlie Brown” tree.  

The six most common Christmas trees sold in Ohio are Scotch pine, eastern white pine, Colorado blue spruce, Douglas fir, Canaan fir, and Fraser fir! Each tree has their own unique characteristics that I will dive into to help you make the right decision and keep it looking as healthy as possible. Some factors to consider and keep in mind when reading these descriptions include size, color, scent, branch strength, and needle retention.

pick the right tree for you

keep your tree healthy

If you’re like me, you may have already purchased your tree or will be soon, and you’ll want to keep it as healthy as possible. Not only will this improve the overall aesthetics of the tree for multiple weeks, but it will also help reduce the post-Christmas cleanup mess by minimizing the amount of needles falling off.  Here are some tips and tricks I recommend:

1. If possible, cutting your tree fresh will be best to ensure your tree stays alive for the maximum amount of time. If you run a hand down the branch, little to no needles should release on a healthy tree.

2. If your tree has been cut for more than 6 to 8 hours, make a new cut approximately 1 inch from the tree’s base to improve water uptake. Most retailers should cut a small “cookie” from the base for you before leaving. These cookies make great ornaments once dried or they can be boiled in water for a festive scent (consider adding cinnamon sticks and orange peels for an even better aroma).

3. Avoid placing your tree directly next to heat sources or direct sunlight to help keep your tree from drying out too fast and to minimize the risk of fire.

4. Last but not least, WATER! Cut trees should be placed in a stand that can hold water. Ensure the water is above the cut base and refill as necessary with tap water. Additives to the water are not recommended. 

keep your tree Safe

Christmas trees are responsible for approximately 200 house fires every year. It’s a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand, know where its located, ensure that it is properly charged, and to educate everyone in the home on how to use it in the event of a fire. If you are unable to power any lights or decorations directly into a wall outlet, use properly functioning extension cords and power sources. Store bought tree stands are designed to hold your tree securely upright. The wider the base, the more stable it will be. I highly recommend using one instead of having the tree free-standing or creating your own DIY stand. For those with little ones like myself, place delicate and small ornaments out of reach from smaller children and make sure they know not to try and eat the needles.

A real Christmas tree can last anywhere from 3 to 6 weeks and cannot be kept for next year. There are many creative ways to reuse your tree after the holidays are over, but most people will either chop it in pieces for firewood or dispose of it to be composted or recycled. Pine needles can make for a great natural mulch alternative if you spread them out 2 to 4 inches deep around the trunk of a tree. If doing this, please ensure that the trunk’s root flare is exposed and not buried. For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) on Thursday, January 2nd and Friday, January 3rd from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. You can knock on our front door and one of our local, friendly office staff members will help you dispose of your old Christmas tree! We’ll ensure that it gets reused to become mulch or compost!

Photos

Canaan Fir

Eastern White Pine

Scotch Pine

Douglas Fir

Colorado Blue Spruce

Fraser Fir

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

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ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

The Persian Parrotia

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 19, 2024​

A Persian parrotia tree (Parrotia persica)

For a variety of reasons, there are certain trees that never seem to get the attention and use they deserve in our Ohio landscapes. The Persian parrotia is one of those trees. The landscape industry tends to rely heavily on a narrow variety of tree species and the Persian parrotia is often overlooked when considering planting options for the landscape. Let’s shed some light on this beautiful, adaptable, and underutilized option.

The Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica), also sometimes known as the Persian ironwood, is a deciduous tree native to a small range of temperate forests in the Middle East. It can grow up to around 30 feet in height with a mature width of 15 to 30 feet. The crown’s shape is generally round or ovular and you may encounter trees grown with either single or multiple stems. The mature size of this tree alone makes it a noteworthy species as this medium size at maturity is often hard to come by and is typically satisfied with trees like river birch or linden. The former often has major health issues with central Ohio’s urban soils. Parrotias tend to be tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions once established, making them a good choice for residential, commercial, and municipal landscapes. Consideration should still be given to location on any property with regard to overhead wires as a 30 foot tree may still be tall enough to interfere with these utilities.

Fall color of Persian parrotia. Note the ~4 different colors of its leaves!

In addition to a desirable size as an accent or shade tree in the landscape, parrotias feature attractive dark green foliage with a gentle serration along the leaf margin. Avid gardeners and tree enthusiasts may find that parrotia foliage resembles that of witch hazel and fothergilla. This is because all three of these species belong to the witch-hazel family (Hamamelidaceae). Fall color is among the best you can find, with blends of yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds that almost seem to glow at the peak of fall foliage season. After the leaves drop, the tree continues to provide winter interest with a beautifully smooth and mottled bark, not unlike the mature bark of crape myrtle or lacebark pine. Flowering in central Ohio occurs in late winter and is not particularly showy. Parrotias are cold hardy to zone 4 (5a), making it a great match for central Ohio winter temperatures.

When planting a parrotia, the selected site should receive full sun to partial shade. Even though the species is tolerant of a variety of soil conditions, including soil pH and somewhat poor soil structure, the site should be well drained and not prone to standing water. With proper location to accommodate its future mature size, correct planting methods, and aftercare, parrotias can be healthy and beautiful additions to an Ohio landscape for several or more decades. Best of all, they are readily found at Ohio plant nurseries and garden centers, making them a tree species that you shouldn’t have to go too far to find! Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Pawpaw Cream Pie and I

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
November 7, 2024​

When it comes to trees, I’ve got lots of favorites. I have a favorite deciduous tree - the Persian parrotia. My favorite evergreen tree is the lacebark pine. My favorite tree for fall color is the black tupelo. I even have a favorite smelling tree - the concolor fir (I love that the crushed needles smell like oranges). Today, I’m writing about my favorite native, edible fruit tree, the pawpaw! Keep reading if you like pie.

A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) in the fall!

If you’re not hip to pawpaws already, the next paragraph is required reading. If you have pawpaw trees in your landscape currently, have ever attended the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, have a pawpaw cookbook, own an article of clothing with a pawpaw printed on it, or have a pawpaw bumper sticker on your car, you can jump ahead to the pie.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), sometimes called custard apple, is a hardy and adaptable small tree, generally growing 15 - 25’ in height in the landscape, with a dense pyramidal shaped canopy (when grown in full sun). The leaves hang downward at an angle and give the tree a somewhat tropical appearance. The fall color of the leaves is a nice golden yellow. Maroon to purple flowers come out mid-spring and are pollinated by flies. Interesting side note: Some of the old timers I know hang meat in their pawpaw trees at the time of flowering to increase pollination as the meat attracts more flies. Pawpaw flowers give way to small fruits, 3 - 6” in length that somewhat resemble a banana and often form in clumps of 3 to 5. Depending on the tree, the fruit can ripen anywhere between late August and early October. Additional side notes: The pawpaw fruit is the largest fruit native to North America and the pawpaw tree is the host plant for the caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly. Good stuff!

Pawpaw fruit! Quarter for scale.

Pawpaw fruit is one of my favorite things to look forward to every year (up there with spring flowers and fall color). The fruit tastes similar to a banana, mango, pear but with more of a custard-like consistency. FYI, the fruit can often contain many large, lima bean-sized seeds, especially with wild picked fruit. The fruit also has a short shelf life, often lasting only a few days after ripening, which is why you don’t see pawpaws at Costco.

Several cultivated varieties of pawpaw exist now that have been selected for longer lasting and  larger fruit with less seeds. I personally recommend ‘Prolific,’ ‘Wells,’ and ‘Sweet Alice.’ These cultivated varieties can be difficult to source, but not impossible. Check in with the folks at Dannaher Landscaping in Galena who generally have several different varieties of pawpaw trees on hand. These are good friends of mine.

Collecting wild fruit is also cool and another reason to go out into the woods. In central Ohio, I typically find pawpaw trees growing naturally near the banks of Walnut Creek, Alum Creek, the Scioto River, the Olentangy River, and throughout wooded flood plains where it often develops a more open and leggy appearance. Near my office in Westerville, along the Alum Creek bike path, I have observed several pawpaw trees in excess of 30’ in height with decent fruit production. We’re getting closer to the part about pie.

Dad removing seeds from the pulp of a pawpaw with precision.

I first discovered pawpaw trees by accident while my brother and I were canoeing a multi-day trip down the Scioto River late summer 2006. We kept noticing the fruit reaching out over the river from Columbus to Portsmouth and we decided to bring some back home to our father. We really didn’t know what we had, but Dad figured out they were pawpaws and decided to save the seeds, which started some of our original trees. My brother and I have followed different paths growing up, but we both have become professional ISA Certified Arborists® and I think somehow it started with the power of the pawpaw. Almost pie time.

Since 2006, I have eaten pawpaw every which way. At the risk of sounding like Forrest Gump, I’ve had pawpaw ice cream, pawpaw candy, pawpaw beer, pawpaw bread, pawpaw salsa, deep fried pawpaw on a stick and everything pawpaw in between. Dad even invented the pawtini (a martini with a toothpick holding a slice of frozen pawpaw). Until recently, my preference for pawpaw provisions was just eating the pulp straight out of the skin with a spoon. If I’m feeling fancy, I might even chill the fruit first, cut it in half, and cover it with homemade whipping cream for an excellent dessert.

A couple of years ago a colleague sent me a recipe for pawpaw cream pie and it blew my mind! (Yes, it is now pie time.) I’ve been experimenting with different levels and ingredients ever since and today I present to you my final draft!  

T.J.’s Pawpaw Cream Pie Recipe

• ½ cup of sugar

• ⅓ cup of flour 

• 3 egg yolks, beaten (save the whites for the meringue topping)

• 3 egg whites

• 1 cup of milk

• 1 cup of heavy cream

• 1 cup of pureed pawpaw pulp

• 3 tbsp. of sugar

• 1 pinch of salt

• 1 baked 9-inch pastry shell

• Optional: ⅓ - ½ cup of chopped walnuts

Start by combining the sugar and flour. Add the beaten egg yolks, milk and cream. Mix well and add the pawpaw pulp and walnuts. The walnuts are not essential to the recipe but add some additional flavor and texture. Cook and stir constantly over a low heat until the mixture thickens. Let cool and then pour mixture into a baked pastry shell and cover with meringue. Make a meringue by beating the 3 left over egg whites stiff with 3 tbsp. of sugar and a pinch of salt. Bake at 350 degrees F for 12 - 15 minutes until meringue is browned.

I also make a true cream pie version of this pie following the same recipe except ditching the 3 egg whites and baking the custard and then adding homemade whipping cream to the top after the filling has cooled.   A simple and delicious recipe for whipping cream is to mix a half pint container of heavy whipping cream with ¼ cup of sugar and 1 teaspoon of vanilla.

Both of these versions are outstanding. If you like banana cream pie, you are going to love this recipe. I’m partial to the true cream pie version but full disclosure, most of my taste testing buddies prefer the meringue.

This recipe is a great way to use up several pawpaws at once as I often end up with fruit faster than I can eat it. Pawpaw is an underutilized tree in the landscape and I’m hoping that delicious pie will encourage you to plant one; although fruit production is better with two. Pawpaw is an easy tree to grow (I haven’t killed one yet) and it has no significant insect or disease problems. This tree will grow happily in a wide range of environments and tolerate some of the most challenging sites and conditions. I hope you can find a way to incorporate this great native tree into your landscape and I encourage you to share any pawpaw recipes, experiences or questions you might have with us at the bottom of this article. Look forward to hearing from you!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Mulch Volcanoes & The Hidden Dangers

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
October 23, 2024

The kwanzan cherry tree in question.

Recently, I was talking to one of my neighbors about typical home and outdoor activities, which sparked the conversation about the kwanzan cherry tree in my front yard. He let me know that it was mulched incorrectly, which caught me off-guard seeing as I took mulching advice from my coworkers Lindsey, an ISA Certified Arborist®, and TJ, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. I kept an open mind and asked him what was wrong and he informed me that it’s best to form a volcano-like shape up towards the trunk of the tree so that way the tree will absorb more water and to increase curb appeal. For him, since it looks more intentional and less natural, it shows that someone is caring for the tree. I communicated to him that multiple coworkers as well as the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide have conflicting information. He said he’s been doing it this way for decades and everything has been fine, completely ignoring the fact that his 50-60 foot tall sugar maple tree was removed due to heavy decay at the base of the tree. We agreed to disagree and went on with our days. Now, I’m not saying mulch volcanoes will cause your tree to decay and be removed, but I am saying that it is detrimental to a tree’s health and that this method of mulching needs to be addressed, stopped, and changed.

A mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed trunk flare and the mulch exceeding the height of the surrounding grade.

So what is a mulch volcano? A mulch volcano, also sometimes known as a mulch mound, mulch pyramid, or a mulch shield, is a circular volcano-shaped pile of mulch above ground level formed up to the trunk of a tree. Mulch volcanoes are created with good intention as tree mulching adds nutrients to the soil, aids in water retention, helps the tree outcompete other plants for resources, protects the tree from trunk damage by lawn mowers and string trimmers, minimizes soil compaction, and increases curb appeal. However, all of the aforementioned benefits apply only to properly mulched trees and mulch volcanoes are an improper form of mulching that eliminates most of these benefits. Most of the time, the person applying mulch to the tree does not even know about this incorrect practice. So if you have ever created a mulch volcano, know that I am not upset or mad. My goal is to educate and discuss the harms of mulch volcanoes and the proper ways to mulch a tree.

An example of stem girdling roots.

Limited Oxygen and Stem Girdling Roots

Mulch volcanoes bury the roots of a tree and simulate it being planted too deeply. This limits the availability of oxygen and water which can cause stem girdling roots, roots that wrap around the trunk of the tree in search of oxygen and nutrients and inevitably “choke” the tree. Stem girdling roots can lead to dieback, stunted growth, and delayed or shrunken leaves popping out in the spring. This can be treated via root collar excavation.

Limited Water

For a mulch volcano with compacted mulch, less water is actually retained and runs off to the bottom perimeter of the mulch. This results in less water availability for the tree as it may run off elsewhere on the property or be absorbed by grass and other plants instead of by the tree.

Excess Water and Bacteria

For better or for worse, mulch is great at retaining water. In the case of mulch volcanoes with porous mulch, this is bad because water can sit and dampen the trunk. Sitting water is bad for a tree because it can carry bacteria that can lead to disease.

Soil pH

Overmulching in this fashion may also limit nitrogen availability and detrimentally alter the soil’s pH. A change in pH outside the ideal range for the tree can lead to nutrient deficiency, chlorosis, stunted growth, defoliation, dieback, or even worse, the death of a tree.

Another mulch volcano. Note the tip dieback on the right side that could be a result of the mulch volcano. An in-depth inspection would be needed for confirmation.

Rodents

When mulch is piled high, it may be enticing to rodents as a form of shelter and concealment. They have also been observed to feed on the lower stems and bark of trees, leaving open wounds that could invite decay, disease, and pests. 

Aesthetics

Mulch volcanoes can make a trained eye who knows proper mulching practices cringe similar to nails on a chalkboard. They convey that the tree manager or mulch installer may be unaware of the best care for the tree. Depending on who you ask, mulch volcanoes are subjectively an eyesore and look goofy or out of place.

A tree mulch ring 12 feet in diameter.

Proper Tree Mulching

So how do you properly mulch a tree? Apply a level 2 to 4 inch deep layer of mulch at least 6 feet in diameter or up to the canopy drip line of a medium-to-larged sized tree. The exact size will depend on your preference or landscape limitations. Keep the root flare exposed and not in direct contact with any mulch. If water runoff is a concern, a small 1 inch tall, wall-like berm can be formed by hand around the perimeter of the mulch to encourage water to remain inside of the mulch. Linked below is my previously written Arbor Ed article on how to properly mulch a tree. It contains a video and even additional tips on how to create a crisp edge for enhanced visual appeal! I strongly encourage you to check it out. You can even follow along with the video when mulching your own tree! For those in central Ohio looking for other tree care needs, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and service quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Why Do We Need Bats?

By Michelle Burden & Nicole Hoffman
October 17, 2024​

Do you ever wonder why some creatures were placed on the Earth such as snakes, spiders and the like? One such creature that comes to mind is the bat. While they are not appealing to most of us, bats serve a purpose on this planet and deserve respect as they play a vital role in our ecosystem.

Did you know there are over 1200 kinds of bats across the globe? About 13 to 15 species of them reside right here in the Buckeye state. Unfortunately, four of these bat species, also known as flittermice for their fluttering wings, are on Ohio’s endangered species list. Let’s learn a bit more about these endangered bat types in Ohio, how they are helpful to us, and what we can do to save these nocturnal creatures so precious to our planet.

• Tricolored Bat - Known for their mixed dark and light coloring. These endangered bats prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. You may find them in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters (that’s a good thing).

• Northern Long-Eared Bat - Known by their long-pointed ears. Similar to the tricolored bat, they also prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. Similarly, they are also found in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters!

• Indiana Bat - Was first found in southern Indiana’s Wyandotte Cave in the late 1920s and is distinguished by the keel (a flap of skin) on the calcar (the spur off the ankle). This bat enjoys taking up residence in pastures, corn fields, and wooded areas in the buckeye state as well as Indiana.

• Little Brown Bat - Weighs in at less than an ounce, has mouse-like ears, and long hairs on its feet. This tiny flying mammal can also be found in tree hollows and wood piles.  

The flittermouse, AKA the bat, is the major pollinator for over 530 types of flowering plants. With their unique ability to fly farther than the average insect and with their skin coating, bats make excellent pollinators. As they lap up the nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to their coat. Then when they visit the next flower for a drink, the pollen falls onto said flower. The bulsa tree population depends highly on the bat pollination process. Bulsa is the world’s lightest wood tree and is used for aircraft construction and surfboards since bulsa wood also floats.

Without these amazing, flying mammals, we would not have agave - a natural sugar alternative used to sweeten foods and used in medicines to fight diseases like cancer. Additionally, agave is also the main ingredient in tequila.

Bats also play a major role in pest control. In the U.S. alone, they eat enough pests to save more than $1 billion annually in pesticide costs and crop damage. As we are discovering the harmful effects of pesticides, we should welcome these creatures as they naturally combat the pest battle.

Why are these nocturnal insect eaters becoming endangered? As the human population and businesses grow, so also does our need for roads, buildings, and housing developments. With this human growth and development, the bats are losing their habitats.

Bats are also becoming endangered due to white-nose syndrome; a fungus that thrives in cold humid conditions of caves and mines where bats often dwell in wintertime. Discovered in 2006, this fungus grows on the muzzles, ears, and wings, and has claimed the lives of over five million bats.

During the winter, bats will either migrate south for warmer weather and a more plentiful food source, or hibernate in places such as caves, mines, or rock crevices to minimize energy expenditure. In Ohio, this will typically take place from approximately October 1st to March 31st. It is during this window that it is safer for certain tree work projects to be completed. Such examples are larger scale, heavier-wooded areas where bats are likely or known to be located. A residential or developed area is typically safe to perform tree work year-round since these are unpreferable and unlikely conditions for bats to call their home. Surveys can be performed, or in some cases are required, to determine if bats are present. These precautions are done to minimize disturbance for these endangered bats.

So what can we do to protect the flittermouse?

• Develop a natural habitat around your home if there is a confirmed bat sighting. In areas where it is safe to do so, leave dead and dying trees in their place. These trees can make great roosting sites for bats.

• Install a bat box 10 to 20 feet above ground and create a garden with flowering plants nearby. Place the bat box in an area that will get six to eight hours of direct sunlight primarily in the morning. Bats will take up residence and keep those pests away as your garden grows.

• Decrease the amount of light in your lawn area as too much light can disrupt bat behavior. Turn down the lights and watch the bat acrobatics as they munch on up to as 3,000 insects per night.

Every creature has a purpose on Earth and the bat is no exception. Let’s do all we can to help them as they continue to help us!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Michelle Burden I Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Michelle joined Russell Tree Experts in 2019. Fall is her favorite time of the year! When she is not working she enjoy spending time with family and friends.

Nicole Hoffman I Project Accountant, Russell Tree Experts

Nicole joined Russell Tree Experts in 2023! Her favorite tree is the sugar maple! She is drawn to the tree industry because of the awesome people. Outside of work, you can find her enjoying quality family time or eating her favorite food: Mexican food!

When Do I Call an Arborist?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
October 3, 2024​

Russell Tree Experts has 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® and 3 ISA Board Certified Master Arborists®!

First of all, what is an arborist? An arborist is a professional that has studied and practices the proper care of urban trees and shrubs. They use a combination of science and skills learned both in the classroom and in the field to perform their daily tasks. Arborists have learned to identify many trees and shrubs along with their preferred growing sites and conditions. They are trained to identify and treat many pests and diseases as well. An arborist can take their commitment to the next level by earning the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist® credential, accredited by the ANSI National Accreditation Board (ANAB) for meeting ISA’s standards of training and knowledge in arboriculture.

With this being said, why call an arborist? Unfortunately, many of our calls come when it’s too late for the tree after it has already succumbed to some type of insect, disease, construction damage, and more. Some trees were also planted in the wrong place to begin with, or simply not planted correctly. The following are some examples of the best instances to call an arborist.

A mature tree being protected with fencing for an upcoming home renovation project.

The best time to call an arborist is before starting your project. Whether you are clearing a lot to build a new house, planting a new landscape around your house, or simply planting a tree anywhere, it is always beneficial to have a plan. One such plan may include how to save trees from damage that you want to maintain on your new lot. This requires a lot of planning before, during, and after this process. Planting the wrong tree in the wrong spot is often a problem we deal with in many situations. Many people don't account for the mature size of that river birch they planted just off the corner of the house. Structural pruning at an early age can help trees adapt to the site, even if they were planted in the wrong place. They may not realize that the red maple they planted does not like central Ohio soils. Many trees we deal with are not suited for our soils and require additional plant healthcare just to maintain their health. This can be avoided with proper planning and choices. The list goes on and on. Sometimes just a simple discussion or email can avoid a lot of issues down the road.

Sometimes a visit to a client’s property can be discouraging when arriving on site and seeing the results of preventable construction damage or improper planning that could have been avoided with a properly timed consultation. I once had a contractor tell me that he had never killed a tree. That contractor had apparently never visited a site he worked at 4 to 5 years later to see the results from the construction and damage. Some construction damage can be apparent within the first year, but oftentimes it may take 4 to 5 years before the total impact is realized.

A tree with chlorotic leaves, indicating a potential pH problem or nutrient deficiency that could slowly lead to the decline and death of the tree if left untreated.

When I arrive on a property with trees planted too closely together, planted in the wrong site conditions, and/or planted incorrectly, these inadequate conditions sadden me for the health of the trees. As an arborist, we are trained to see the future impact of plant selections, as well as how they will fit into their site at maturity. Trees planted too close together can often result in stunted growth due to resource competition such as water, sunlight, and space. Unideal site conditions for a tree can lead to numerous, future problems such as leaf scorch and chlorosis just to name a few. An improperly planted tree can result in stem-girdling roots and root rot. A simple consultation in the beginning can avoid a lot of issues down the road. 

My third, most challenging visit is to a recently purchased property. One of the best times to consult with an arborist is prior to purchasing an existing property with mature trees. We often find major problems that could be taken care of before the purchase by the seller or used in the negotiation of the purchase price. Most home inspectors are not trained to identify tree issues. A simple consultation could save you a lot of money on your new home purchase. A recent example is with our Media Production Coordinator (Enrique) who had a pre-purchase inspection by one of our Regional Managers (Mitch) who caught lecanium scale on a crabapple tree and boxwood leafminer on numerous boxwood shrubs that were missed by the home inspector. He was able to bring this to the attention of the previous homeowner who offered to take care of the plant healthcare services prior to closing. In the end, he saved a few hundred dollars by attaining a pre-purchase inspection instead of paying for plant healthcare services.

ISA Certified Arborist® Mike McKee and ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel planting a ginkgo tree!

Another trend that I have noticed lately is insurance companies telling homeowners that they must eliminate all overhang of their structure or their insurance policy will be dropped. Some insurance agents are using Google Earth images to make many of these decisions and not visiting the property in-person to more accurately assess the tree’s risk. This practice could lead to pruning practices that could severely degrade the health of your trees. A property owner that is proactively caring for their trees should not be subjected to this practice. If this trend continues, it will be our job as arborists to help convince insurance companies not to require this practice, especially when it is not appropriate. If you receive such a request from your insurance company, this would be another opportune time to call an arborist.

In closing, the goal of this article is to help people to understand the best time to call an ISA Certified Arborist®. The scenarios mentioned in the article are from recent visits to our client’s properties and are a recurring problem. As an arborist, we are disappointed when we have to tell people to remove a tree that could have been preserved if the proper steps had been taken at the beginning of a project. Tree removal is a part of our business, but preserving trees for future generations is our passion! I hope this helps. Below are other beneficial Arbor Ed article related to tree planting and tree preservation. To request a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, request a quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Day in the Life of a Tree Wellness Technician!

By Alex Miller
ISA Certified Arborist®
September 26, 2024​

Green spaces are known to have an endless list of positive effects on mental and physical health, including but not limited to reducing stress, reducing blood pressure, strengthening memory retention, increasing productivity, increasing concentration, increasing creativity, and lowering the symptoms of dementia. This makes being a plant healthcare technician a rewarding profession centered around the essential task of maintaining and enhancing the health of trees and shrubs in the urban landscape! However, it is not without its challenges. Each day is a blend of technical skills, environmental awareness, and client interaction which makes everyday both unique and fulfilling.

One of our plant healthcare trucks!

My day typically begins early, often before sunrise, as I prepare for a day of diverse tasks. The morning routine involves reviewing the day’s schedule, which might include site visits to commercial properties, residential gardens, or public parks. Each location has its own set of plant health issues, so preparation is key. I check for any special instructions or updates related to the plants I will be treating, ensuring that all necessary equipment and supplies are loaded into the truck. Often, I am aware of the issues I am treating, but not always. If I can, upon arriving at the site I try to meet with the client, if for nothing else, to let them know who’s walking around their property. Then my role will shift into diagnostic mode or straight into treatment. If I am doing an inspection, this involves carefully inspecting plants for signs of distress, looking for telltale signs of pests, diseases, or nutrient deficiencies. Detailed observations are crucial. For example, yellowing leaves might indicate a nutrient imbalance, while holes in leaves could suggest an insect infestation. I take lots of notes on these observations and sometimes collect samples for further analysis.

Treating a crabapple tree for apple scab via fungicide spray!

A significant part of my day involves applying treatments. This could mean spraying pesticides, administering fertilizers, or implementing soil amendments. Each treatment requires precision to ensure that it targets the problem effectively while minimizing impact on the surrounding environment. I follow a lot of safety protocols, wearing protective gear and adhering to regulations regarding chemical use. Often, I will simply report my findings and allow the regional manager who is more familiar with the property to engage in consultations with clients. This involves explaining findings, recommending best practices for plant care, and discussing potential improvements to enhance plant health in the future. As my workday progresses, I am constantly logging data; documenting treatments I’ve applied, the observations I’ve made, and the outcomes I’ve observed. This helps track the progress of each plant and plan future interventions.

Root zone invigoration using an air excavation device!

An often-overlooked aspect of working in various outdoor settings is dealing with the occasional mess left behind by others. For instance, it is quite a relief when I encounter a site where pet waste, such as dog poop, has already been picked up. It not only improves my working conditions, but also ensures that I can focus on plant health without any distractions. This small but significant detail can make a substantial difference in my day’s workflow as dragging a hose through a backyard without hitting any landmines can sometimes be a challenging task. It is a simple pleasure that certainly enhances the overall experience of the job. In addition, it is incredibly helpful when clients are able to prepare for my arrival by moving bird feeders, yard art, or furniture out of the work zone. This thoughtful preparation allows me to focus on the task at hand and leads to a smoother and more efficient workflow.

Vertical mulching a tree suffering from soil compaction!

My day typically ends with a review of the completed tasks and preparation for the following day. I may plan out my next set of site visits and ensure all necessary tools and supplies are working and ready. There’s also a period of reflection on the day’s work, assessing what went well, and what could be improved. However, not every day is perfect, and there are challenges such as inclement weather or unexpected complications with plant health issues that may lead to delays. This can of course be frustrating for clients because some interventions may have a very narrow window of effectivity and may have to take priority of certain tasks that have a much wider range of time to be effective. Communication here is the key to ensuring tasks are getting done in their appropriate time frame and clients are satisfied with the work they are receiving. One of the more gratifying aspects of my job is the opportunity to visit sites year-to-year, or sometimes even a few times a year, and witness the positive outcomes of my interventions. There is something deeply rewarding about seeing a plant bounce back from the brink of disease or pest damage and seeing it full of life and vigor; especially after you have put in the effort to nurse it back to health.

In summary, a day in the life of a plant healthcare technician is a dynamic blend of technical expertise, hands-on problem solving, and client interaction. It involves diagnosing and treating plant health issues, applying treatments, and offering valuable advice. Amidst the challenges, small comforts, like avoiding the unpleasantness of dog poop, enhance the work experience, making the role both manageable and uplifting by ensuring that plants thrive and contribute positively to humans and to their environments. If tree preservation services are of interest for your property, Russell Tree Experts provides free tree work quotes from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or (614) 895-7000!

CHECK OUT THESE VIDEOS!

Sincerely,

Alex Miller I Crew Leader, Russell Tree Experts

Alex joined Russell Tree Experts in 2021 and has been in the green industry since 2020. He is an ISA Certified Arborist®, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, OSHA 10 certified, and holds an ODA commercial pesticide license. Alex’s favorite tree is a magnolia tree! When not at RTE, he enjoys rock climbing and his favorite movie series: The Lord of the Rings!

How to Prepare Your Trees for Severe Storms

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
September 19, 2024​

The word “storm” can take on many different meanings: Thunderstorms, blizzards, ice storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, or one of our crew leaders Storm Wellman! Jokes aside, all types of storm events can wreak havoc on properties, causing significant damage to homes, landscapes, and personal property. Preventing storm damage is crucial for safeguarding your property and minimizing costly repairs. By taking proactive steps you can reduce the impact of severe weather. Regular maintenance and preparation are key to ensuring that your property remains protected when storms occur. In this article, we will explore practical tips to help protect your property against the destructive forces of nature.

WHAT IS "STORM DAMAGE"?

General Crew Leader Harry Carter removing a tree off of a house that failed during a thunderstorm.

Storm damage occurs when a tree or limbs from a tree fall and damage valued property. This can range from a tree limb falling on your gutter to a large tree falling onto your home. Storm damage results in millions of dollars in property loss every year. 

IS IT POSSIBLE TO PREVENT STORM DAMAGE?

While it is not always possible to eliminate storm damage, steps can be taken to reduce its impact. However, extreme storms may still cause damage despite preventive efforts. See below for useful tips to help you identify at-risk trees and limbs as well commonly employed interventions to mitigate these risks for the future. 

HOW TO IDENTIFY STORM DAMAGE RISKS 

The key to reducing potential storm damage is identifying the hazards. The following are a few simple ways to try and identify potential hazards.

1.    Look for hazardous dead limbs close to your house or other valued property

Dead limbs near a house.

2.    Try to identify declining trees on your property by looking for the following:

• A large number of dead limbs in the canopy of the tree

• The existence of conks or mushrooms which are the fruiting bodies of decay on the trunk of the tree

• In general, a tree that appears unhealthy (missing leaves, loose bark, etc.)

An example of co-dominant stems with multiple brace rods installed.

3.    Locate high risk co-dominant stems

• These are tight “V” type unions 

• May appear as multiple stems originating from one point in the trunk.

HOW TO MITIGATE HAZARDS

Mitigating the hazards within your trees can be done in many ways. At Russell Tree Experts, we can identify general and more noticeable hazards on your property during a tree inspection such as our free anytime quote or optional firm time quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®. Another option to consider is a tree risk assessment containing a thoroughly written report on a suspected hazardous tree. In this scenario, an ISA Certified Arborist® with a TRAQ (Tree Risk Assessment Qualification) will employ various tools and tests from head-to-toe of your tree to assess the overall risk rating of your tree. Once hazards are identified either though a property inspection or tree risk assessment, a full mitigation plan can be put together. This plan may include, but is not limited to, tree pruning, tree removal, brace rod installation, cabling, and lightning protection to make your property safer and more resilient to storms. 

IN SUMMARY

Don’t be scared - be prepared. A well-maintained tree with regular pruning and care will be stronger and more storm-resistant. Proactively identifying hazards and putting together a mitigation plan can help save money as well as reduce headaches when storm events occur.

CHECK OUT THESE VIDEOS!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Fall Webworm: An In-Depth Exploration

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
September 12, 2024​

As a regional manager, I have been hearing many concerns from homeowners about fall webworm over the last few weeks and have seen even more in landscapes throughout central Ohio. Fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea) is a species of moth known for its distinctive and conspicuous webs, which are commonly found on a wide variety of trees across North America. While not considered a major threat, fall webworm can cause significant defoliation in late summer and early fall, leading to reduced vigor and unsightly trees.

Life Cycle of the Fall Webworm

The life cycle of fall webworm is a fascinating process that begins with the emergence of adult moths in late spring or early summer. The adult moths, characterized by their white wings often dotted with black spots, are nocturnal and are seldom seen during the day. After mating, the female moth lays her eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs are small, white, and laid in clusters, often numbering several hundred.

Within a week or two, the eggs hatch into larvae, which are the most destructive stage of the fall webworm life cycle. The caterpillars are initially light green or yellow with two rows of black spots along their bodies. As they mature, they develop long, silky hairs. The larvae immediately begin to feed on the leaves of the host tree, creating a communal web that serves as both a shelter and a feeding ground. As the larvae grow, the web expands to cover more of the tree's branches. This feeding occurs from late spring to mid-summer. By late August, they typically stop feeding.

The larvae go through several instars (or developmental stages) over the course of four to six weeks. Once they reach maturity, they leave the webbing to pupate in the soil or under loose bark, where they remain until the following spring.

Habitat and Distribution

Young fall webworm insects are highly adaptable caterpillars that feed on a wide variety of plants, including more than 100 species of deciduous trees. Some of their preferred hosts include hickory, walnut, cherry, and persimmon trees.

The webs of the fall webworm are commonly found in late summer and early fall, which is how the species earned its name. These webs can cover entire branches and, in severe infestations, can even envelop small trees entirely.

Ecological Impact

While fall webworm is a pest and nuisance, its overall impact on the urban forest is generally minimal. Most healthy trees can withstand the defoliation caused by these caterpillars, and the damage is typically more cosmetic than lethal. The webs themselves, though unsightly, do not cause direct harm to the tree. The unsightly webs can diminish the aesthetic value of ornamental trees, leading to concerns among tree managers.

Management and Control

Controlling populations of fall webworm can be challenging due to the species' high reproductive rate and wide host range. However, several management strategies can help reduce their impact.

1. Mechanical Control: One of the simplest methods is physically removing the webs from affected trees. This can be done by pruning infested branches or tearing open the webs to expose the caterpillars to predators.

2. Biological Control: Natural predators and parasitoids can help keep fall webworm populations in check. Birds, spiders, and wasps are all natural enemies of fall webworm. In some cases, introducing or encouraging these predators can be an effective control measure.

3. Chemical Control: In severe infestations, insecticides may be used to reduce fall webworm populations. We generally only recommend this if the infestation is extreme or if the tree is of high aesthetic value.

4. Cultural Control: Maintaining healthy trees through proper watering, fertilization, and pruning can help them better withstand defoliation. Additionally, removing fallen leaves and other debris from around the base of trees can reduce overwintering sites for pupae.

Conclusion

In conclusion, although the presence of fall webworm can be unsightly and concerning, they are generally not a serious threat to the overall health of trees. We generally do not recommend treatment of this pest unless populations are excessive, or if a young tree is infested to the point where serious defoliation is a concern. Should chemical or physical treatment be warranted, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can provide a free tree quote and determine the best care for your trees at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000!

CHECK OUT THESE ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

The Misunderstood Scapegoat of Our Landscape - Carpenter Ants

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 22, 2024​

Everyone loves to hate them, but did you know that carpenter ants are responsible for saving countless lives each year by dragging unsuspecting homeowners out of the way of falling limbs?

Okay, that’s completely false.

A carpenter ant!

While they may not be the most heroic Hymenopterans in the landscape, carpenter ants generally don’t deserve the “tree destroying, just-as-bad-as-termites” reputation they’ve gained over time. Like most people, places, or things that we think poorly of, there’s usually a good bit of misunderstanding or lack of knowledge that leads to false narratives. Let’s take a look at the habits of carpenter ants to understand them better.

You probably already know a few things about ants in general; they live in colonies, there’s usually one egg-producing female called the queen, they have a diverse diet that can include other insects, plant materials, sources of sugar in the landscape (berries, fruits, etc.) as well as human food. All of these traits apply to carpenter ants as well. But what makes carpenter ants different (among a few other things) is where they set up their nests, and this is an important fact to know if we are to better understand them. Carpenter ants will build nesting sites in moist, decaying wood. This could technically be in the structure of your home if you have an already compromised roof, flashing, or siding that has allowed moisture to decay the underlying framing. But most often these nests are in existing cavities of hardwood trees. If there is one important takeaway from this article, it’s this - carpenter ants DO NOT take perfectly sound, intact wood and turn it into decayed wood. If you see them, carpenter ants are simply an indication that decayed wood is already present, probably in a nearby hardwood tree. Think of it this way - if you sat your old collection of boy band CDs out to the curb, you might have groupies loitering in your front yard, but they’re probably not coming inside. The bigger concern in this case would be your neighbors finding out that you had a collection of boy band CDs in the first place. That’s right, you know who you are.

Carpenter ants on a freshly removed tree trunk with decayed wood present

Carpenter ants seeking out these existing pockets of decay in wood will further mine or carve out the area to create a hospitable and damp site to make new nests. You may see frass or shavings at the base of a tree that can indicate their mining activities within, even if you can’t see them on the outside of the tree. Worker ants that are busy foraging or scouting for new nesting sites can be spotted during the day, but are most active at night. The nesting sites do not contribute to faster decay of the area or further loss of structural integrity. If we should have an opinion about them that is anything other than neutral, let it be one of acceptance, perhaps even gratitude that these little creatures give us clues as to what’s happening in our trees.

One very common question about the cavities that can harbor these ants is “Can I cover it/fill it/seal it in some way to keep things out?” The answer is generally no. It’s virtually impossible to seal out oxygen and water from a cavity within the wood of a tree. And as long as there’s oxygen and moisture, unprotected/untreated wood will decay as nature intended it to. In fact, attempting to seal a cavity can often reduce (but not eliminate) airflow to the area, trapping moisture that would otherwise dry out during warmer, drier weather, and accelerating the rate of decay. The best approach for most trees is to assess their overall health and promote that health if the tree is deemed reasonably safe, or discuss and consider removal or major pruning if a whole tree or sections of it are determined to be hazardous.

Sawdust and a carpenter ant near a tree cavity. 

One important distinction between carpenter ants and termites is that carpenter ants do not eat wood. If it is determined that you have a carpenter ant problem within the structure of your home, contacting a pest control company is perfectly acceptable - just remember that killing the ants doesn’t eliminate the underlying issue that attracted them in the first place. Although treating for carpenter ants in the landscape is typically not necessary, a pest control company would be required for that as well if you chose to have it done. As a professional tree care company that offers plant health care services, we are licensed to apply treatments to horticultural pests when needed. Since carpenter ants are technically categorized as wood-destroying insects, we cannot and do not treat for them at Russell Tree Experts.

To summarize, carpenter ants are probably less of an issue in your landscape than you think. If you have mature trees, you’re very likely going to see them around in the landscape. If you see a lot of them, it may indicate that a larger concern is present. Give us a call and one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can come out to inspect the trees on your property. If you’re simply not sure, remember that carpenter ants are largely nocturnal. So while you’re throwing out those CDs under the cover of darkness, take a flashlight with you and look around!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

How to Mulch a Tree Ring with CRISP Edges!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
August 6, 2024

In this article (and video below), we will be going over how to make a tree mulch ring with crisp edges! First, what is a tree mulch ring? In general, it is a circular area of organic mulch around the trunk of your tree. Sometimes the perimeter will be outlined with stone or plastic landscape edging. The benefits of creating a tree mulch ring is that if done properly, it will aid in maintaining the health of your tree and promote increased growth and vigor. We will also be going over common mistakes to be cautious of.

VIDEOS: HOW TO CREATE A TREE MULCH RING

Full-length video

Shortened video

Benefits of a Tree Mulch Ring

More Nutrients: Organic mulch contains a lot of essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that will slowly break down and decompose for the tree to absorb. Examples of organic mulch are mulches made from wood chips, compost, or leaves. Examples of inorganic mulches that would not provide the benefit of increased nutrients are anything made of stones or synthetic materials like plastic or fabric.

Water Retention: Mulch is a natural insulator that will keep the soil warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer compared to the surrounding, ambient temperature. Mulch also retains water more effectively than grass or topsoil. Evaporation is slowed down and more water is available for the tree. This also means that less tree watering may be needed depending on the weather and season. Instead of watering every 1 to 2 days, a deep soaking once or twice per week could be completed with similar or improved results. Erosion is also minimized as mulch will lessen the impact of water droplets hitting the ground and washing away the soil.

Outcompeting Other Plants: Mulch will reduce competition of nutrients, water, and oxygen for the tree from grass, weeds, invasive plants, and more. This results in the tree having more resources to absorb to keep it growing as healthy as possible!

Minimizing Trunk Damage: A mulch ring will minimize or even eliminate any risk for trunk damage from lawn mowers or string trimmers. Someone may not be intentionally trying to damage a tree’s roots or trunk, but accidents happen when trying to mow or trim those last, stubborn blades of grass. If there’s mulch instead of grass near the trunk, then there will be no reason to bring a lawn mower or string trimmer within a close enough distance for accidental damage to occur. 

Soil Decompaction: Soil compaction is bad for a tree because it minimizes gas exchange and water infiltration. A tree benefits from soil decompaction and root zone invigoration if the soil is compacted when digging up the topsoil and is replaced with porous mulch. Peo de ple are also less likely to step on mulch compared to grass which will aid in minimizing soil compaction and keeping it porous for adequate gas exchange and water infiltration. 

Final product of a properly mulched tree ring!

Reduced Maintenance: Although there is an upfront time commitment with installing a tree mulch ring as well as some annual maintenance with re-edging the lines and adding mulch, less tree maintenance will be needed in the future. A tree mulch ring means less grass to mow and less weeds popping up. Revisiting the benefit of increased water retention, this means that less tree watering will be required with certain exceptions like newly planted trees and drought-like weather conditions. A properly installed tree mulch ring and a consistent watering schedule can also minimize the risk of stem girdling roots, soil compaction, drought stress, and some nutrient deficiencies. This makes for a healthier tree and lessened chance for problems that would require tree work services like fertilization, root collar excavation, root zone invigoration, or worse, tree removal.

Aesthetics: Subjectively speaking, tree mulch rings are aesthetically pleasing and can boost curb appeal! It conveys to passersby that you care about your trees and property. You can even make your neighbor Jim from three doors down envious of your lawn! If you start to notice other neighbors creating a mulch ring around their tree after creating yours, you can take pride and credit for being a trendsetter.

Stem girdling roots circling around the trunk of a tree. This is a common symptom a tree mulched or planted too deeply.

Correcting an Improperly Planted Tree: This doesn’t apply to every tree. However, if you are wanting to mulch a tree that just so happens to be planted improperly, this is a great double positive to fix the imperfection while also gaining the aforementioned benefits of tree mulching. Signs of an improperly planted tree are stem girdling roots, mulch volcanoes, and the lack of a visible root flare.

Now let’s move on with how to create a tree mulch ring and avoid some common mistakes!

How to Create a Tree Mulch Ring 

The ISA Arborists’ Certification Study Guide recommends a mulching depth of 2 to 4 inches and a radius of anywhere from 3 feet up to the canopy drip line of a tree.

1. Determine the size of your mulch ring! In general, aim for a mulch ring with a diameter anywhere between 6 feet wide or up to the canopy drip line for a medium-to-large sized tree. The latter is not always achievable however due to obstacles like nearby trees, plants, concrete, and more. As long as the mulch ring is at least 6 feet in diameter, it should suffice! In terms of mulch depth, 2 to 4 inches is recommended, but I like sticking closer to 2 inches deep.

2. Outline your circle and make sure the tree is centered. There are multiple, effective methods of outlining the mulch ring circle. Below are a few popular ways. One might be more effective than the other depending on your tree, such as if there’s a central leader or any low hanging limbs.

1. Method 1 requires a tool like a shovel or edger and some type of long, ovular, band like a piece of rope, tie down strap, belt, or exercise band. Place the tree trunk inside one end of the band and the edging tool on the other end of the band. Set the distance of the band to the desired radius of the mulch ring. Go around the tree in a circle and make a 2 to 4 inch deep cut into the ground until you have a fully outlined circle.

2. Method 2 requires string and a can of spray paint. Cut the string to the desired radius of your mulch ring. Leave some margin on the string so you can tie the tree trunk and spray paint can together and maintain the desired radius. On one end, tie the string gently and securely to the tree trunk and on the other end, tie the string to the spray paint can. An easy knot I recommend would be the bowline knot! Walk around the tree while applying a visible layer of spray paint to create a circular, painted outline. 

3. Method 3 requires a long garden hose and measuring device. Lay down the garden hose in a circle around the tree to create an outline the size of your desired mulch ring. Use the measuring device to check if the tree is centered in the circle by checking for the same radius at various locations between the trunk and the hose.

4. Method 4 requires a measuring device and an edging tool. Measure your desired radius from the trunk of the tree to the edge of the mulch ring and mark the spot by digging 2 to 4 inches into the soil with your edging tool. Move your shovel away from the mark and repeat this process along the circumference of the tree until your circle is fully outlined. 

3. Dig up the top 2 to 4 inches of topsoil within the circular outline! Be careful of any fine, fibrous tree roots. If any are present, consider using an air blower or your hands to gently remove the soil near it. If there’s any grass or weeds remaining after the top 2 to 4 inches of topsoil are removed, consider pulling them out to minimize the chance of weeds or grass growing out above the mulch. Check for a level surface and a well-defined edge and make touch-ups if needed.

4. Dampen the soil to a darker shade of brown and avoid pooling of any water. This could be considered optional on different guides for how to create a tree mulch ring, but I recommend this as a quick, low effort way to add moisture back into the soil. This is especially helpful if you are doing this in the middle of summer with any exposed roots. Avoid placing down landscape fabric between the soil and mulch. This is a common practice of the past that is slowly being phased out because studies have shown this to not be noticeably more effective at blocking weeds, because the openings can clog up with organic matter and minimize air exchange and drainage, and because the decomposed nutrients from the mulch will be blocked from improving your soil and making nutrients more available for your tree. If weeds are a concern, an optional step could be to apply a weed preventer like Preen before applying mulch.

An incorrect method of applying mulch commonly known as a mulch volcano.

5. Evenly apply your mulch! Depending on the specific diameter and depth of your hole, anywhere from 1 to 4 bags could be used. Be cautious of compacting the mulch. You can lightly tamp the soil with your hands to help level the surface, but keep the mulch porous to maximize gas exchange and water infiltration. Do not cover the root flare (also known as the trunk flare) of the tree. This may be a commonly seen occurrence, but that does not mean it’s the correct way to mulch a tree. This is known as a mulch volcano and is bad for the tree! They are detrimental to a tree’s health because they encourage unwanted disease and decay and because the needed oxygen-carbon dioxide exchange for healthy growth is minimized. Keep it simple by applying a level layer of mulch. If you are concerned about water runoff, a tiny, wall-like berm could be created around the perimeter of the mulch ring and formed by hand to encourage water to remain inside the mulch.

6. Touch up the circumference of the mulch ring to make that edge look nice and crisp! You can use a tool like the sharp end of a shovel, an edger, a string trimmer, or a bed redefiner. Avoid stepping on the edge or using a heavy piece of equipment as the edge could cave in and break.

Final product!

7. Water the mulch! Ideally, it is best to water the tree slowly and deeply using a watering bucket or a drip irrigation device, but you can also use a garden hose on the mist setting and apply it evenly for a couple of minutes to get the mulch damp and moist. Avoid pooling any water and do not get the trunk or leaves excessively soaked for an extended period of time because an environment for disease or decay could be created.

8. Voila, you’re finished! Time to take a step back, enjoy it, take a few pictures, show your friends and family, or whatever else you’d like to do! You might have also created a messy work zone that you may need to clean up!

~~~

In terms of future maintenance, you may annually need to redefine the edge to keep it looking crisp and you may need to add a minimal amount of mulch as it decomposes and thins out. To preserve your edge line, avoid mowing directly up to the edge and use a string trimmer to cut the grass 1-3 inches closest to the edge. You can also add stone around the perimeter to make it stand out even more, but this is not necessary in regards to your tree’s health.

I hope this article was insightful and useful! The videos near the beginning are a visual guide for how to create a tree mulch ring! If you’re curious to learn more, I strongly encourage checking out the related articles below on topics such as proper tree watering, tree mulching, mulch volcanoes, stem girdling roots, and more. As always, if you’re in the central Ohio area looking for tree work, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Spotted Lanternfly: They Are Here!

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 1, 2024​

In early 2022, I sent out a message warning people to keep an eye out for the spotted lanternfly as it was on the move from our neighboring state of Pennsylvania. Now today in 2024, there are multiple confirmed populations in Franklin County, Ohio. Linked below is a map with confirmed populations:

https://cornell.app.box.com/v/slf-distribution-map-detail

As a review, the spotted lanternfly (SLF) is an invasive insect that feeds on various plant species, with its primary host being tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima), but has been seen feeding on over 70 species of plants.

Preferred host plants for SLF depending on the time of year and stage of life cycle. (Source: PSU Extension)

Frontal view of a spotted lanternfly. Source: GH Photos Alamy Stock. PSU Extension.

SLF are not harmful to humans as they cannot bite or sting, but they are large in their adult form and look intimidating.

Spotted lanternfly insect are sap suckers and feed on the sap through a tiny, straw-like mouth part. While feeding, they excrete honeydew which has been known to resemble a light rain in forested parts of infested areas. SLF is a plant stressor that, combined with other stressors, can cause significant damage to the host plant. SLF alone may not necessarily kill a tree; it has only been known to kill grapevines, tree of heavens, and black walnut saplings directly.

We need to slow the spread of SLF by checking vehicles and any outdoor equipment for egg deposits. If they are present, they need to be destroyed and not moved across quarantine lines. Eggs are laid in the fall from September to December and will hatch in the spring from April to June. They lay their eggs on trees, decks, houses, outdoor equipment, and cars, and are protected by a mud-like covering, making the egg masses difficult to spot.

Spotted lanternfly egg masses

Adults begin to emerge in July and remain active until a hard freeze. 

Adult spotted lanternfly insects

Late spring/early summer

Spotted lanternfly nymph

When they start hatching, they will look like little black insects with white spots, and they will not turn red until about mid-summer. Watch out for the combination of honeydew/black sooty mold/wasp swarms around your trees, because it could be an indicator of an invasion.

Management options

Contact insecticides can be used by spraying either the nymphs or the adults from May through October. Be cautious of spraying actively blooming plants to minimize the risk of killing beneficial insects. Systemic insecticides can be used to control and kill SLF adults from May through September. Unfortunately, due to SLF being nimble and fast travelers, just because you treat your property or plant material once, doesn’t mean they won’t come back.

Please be diligent about stopping the spread of this invasive pest. When traveling and vacationing this summer, please be diligent in inspecting your vehicles, camping equipment, and basically anything that is exposed and stationary for more than a couple of hours, especially in known outbreak areas.

If you believe your tree might be infested with spotted lanternfly insects, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can provide a free tree quote to determine the best care for your trees at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or at (614) 895-7000!

OTHER CREEPY CRAWLERS!

Sincerely,

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

Some Mites Like It Hot... Ready or Not!

By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist®
July 25, 2024​

As the average temperatures rise, hungry spider mites thrive! These tiny leaf suckers love hot and dry weather and are currently causing many of our beloved foundation shrubs to look sickly and even lose their leaves entirely.

Spider mites on a burning bush

Spider mite damage on burning bush (Euomymus alatus) and on boxwood (Buxus sp.) is common in the summer months. These typically dependably green shrubs will begin to take on a yellow or bronze cast when infested, and, upon closer inspection, a distinct stippling or scratched appearance of the leaves will become apparent. This characteristic pattern is caused by feeding of the mites on the undersides of the plant’s leaves. Many generations of this tiny sucker can occur per summer. A complete generation can take less than a week during 90°F temperatures and without significant rainfall. That’s a lot of babies at 100 eggs per female!

The twospotted spider mite is the species that afflicts the burning bush. These mites will also feed on many other species when available including viburnum, roses, edible plants, perennials and houseplants. In full sun conditions (especially near hardscape like driveways or brick walls) you may see their webbing binding the leaves and even tiny mites moving within the web. This species of mite overwinters as adults in leaf litter and in soil. It's important to clean up and bag any fallen leaves in the fall so that you can reduce the population of these pests before they wake up next spring.

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Burning bush with spider mites

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The boxwood spider mite can only feed on boxwood species. This makes it a “host specific” species of spider mite and will not cause damage to any other plants in your landscape. This mite also differs from the twospotted spider mite in that it creates no webs, it feeds on the upper surface of the leaf as well as the bottom surface and it overwinters as eggs on the boxwood plant.

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Boxwood with spider mites

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If you want to check your plants for these "pepper sized" pests or suspect you may have a growing spider mite issue, the best way is to firmly smack the twig over a white piece of paper. Look closely and you may see tiny mites crawling on the paper.

As a preventative measure, it is a great idea to give both your burning bushes and boxwoods a heavy spray with your hose nozzle. Do this twice a week in hot, dry weather (over 85°F). Concentrate on the undersides of the leaves especially to attempt to dislodge adults and eggs.

Keeping your plants watered during the summer also really helps to curb serious infestations. If plants are stressed for water, they will be much more likely to become overrun with spider mites and also insect pests like scale, aphids and lacebug.

If you would like one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® to scout your landscape for spider mites and give you options to control these proliferous pests, please contact our office at (614) 895-7000 or request a free quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote. We offer many options to get spider mites under control and we will help determine the best course of action for your specific trees and shrubs! Have a great summer and make sure to keep yourself watered as well!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Sincerely,

Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts

Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]

Deep Root Irrigation: Another way to water!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
July 18, 2024​

Every day over the last couple of weeks I have observed newly planted trees in parks, along streets, and in front yards dry up and lose all their leaves because they are not receiving adequate water. As the weather continues to heat up in central Ohio, this is the time of year to pay special attention to your newly planted trees (and shrubs) to ensure they do not dry out. All trees need water to healthily grow, photosynthesize, and be more resistant to pests and disease. However, newly planted trees (trees planted within the last 3 growing seasons) need extra watering help throughout this time of year because they have limited root systems and less access to moisture. Whether your new trees are deciduous, evergreen, big, small, or listed as a drought tolerant species, it must receive supplemental water this time of year.  

As a quick review, remember that watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of the newly planted trees. Traditionally, tree watering should be performed regularly, slowly, deeply and in the area with active feeder roots. For more detailed information on general watering practices check out my article and video on watering HERE! 

Today, I’d like to introduce a new tree watering service we are providing called Deep Root Irrigation (DRI).  DRI is intended to efficiently deliver water to tree roots that need special assistance getting adequate hydration. 

How Does Deep Root Irrigation Work?

With DRI, we use an irrigation lance to penetrate the surface of the soil and inject water six to eight inches deep into the root zone of the tree. Using the lance beneath the surface of the soil helps to bypass turf, groundcover, or weed roots and delivers the water directly to the root zone of the tree. 

An irrigation lance used for deep root irrigation.

Additionally, the water comes out of the lance at about 200 psi and splits into four separate streams that help to break up compacted soil and add valuable pore space into the soil profile for future root growth.

The tip of an irrigation lance spraying water at about 200 psi in 4 separate streams.

Since the water is being injected directly into the root zone of the tree with no chance of run off, the water can be applied to the tree quickly as opposed to the longer, deeper soaking that is required with traditional tree watering that starts above the soil surface. With DRI we can thoroughly apply the recommended 10 gallons of water to a new planted 2 inch dbh (diameter at breast height) balled-and-burlapped tree in 2 to 3 minutes. The amount of recommended water for a tree will vary depending on the particular tree’s size, level of establishment, and planting site.  

ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel performing a deep root irrigation using an irrigation lance!

What Trees Benefit From Deep Root Irrigation?

While tree watering is essential for ALL trees, certain trees will benefit from deep root irrigation more than others such as:

• Newly planted trees in landscapes whose owners are away during the hot or dry seasons. A 2 week gap in watering is all it takes for a tree to dry out while it’s owners are enjoying vacation

• Newly planted trees that are not close to a watering source (park trees, street trees or trees inaccessible by hose)

• Established trees in restricted root zones (ex: parking lots or sidewalk cut outs)

• Trees that recently experienced soil compaction or root disturbance events

• Established trees that have recently received a root zone invigoration

• Trees experiencing stress from insect infestation or disease

• Over mature trees in the beginnings of decline

• Established trees during extreme periods of drought

How Often is Deep Root Irrigation Needed?

There is not a one size fits all answer to this question. Watering is essential to newly planted trees during most of the growing season (May through October). In general, a newly planted 2 inch dbh balled-and-burlapped tree should receive roughly 10 gallons of water once every 7 to 10 days. If you have newly planted trees that you regularly care for, but plan to be away for a short time on vacation during the growing season, DRI is likely to only be needed while you are away. If you have a large old tree that is in the beginnings of decline, a thorough DRI once a month during the summer months will go a long way to maintaining health and vigor. Every situation is different.

To request a quote, please visit RussellTreeExperts.com/quote or call us at 614-895-7000 and one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® can help determine the best care for your trees!

DEEP ROOT IRRIGATION IN ACTION!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Bagworms: Why they are bad news & How to get rid of them

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 23, 2024​

A bagworm on a Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens)

Bagworms are a serious pest to a variety of ornamental plants in our landscapes. Bagworms are the caterpillars of a moth. These caterpillars are called “bagworms” because they wrap themselves in a bag constructed of material from their host plant. The bags camouflage the bagworms from predators as they feed and can also make effective treatments challenging. Understanding their life cycle, preferred host plants, feeding habits, and effective treatment methods are crucial for managing infestations and preserving the health of your plants. 

Life Cycle of Bagworms

Bagworms undergo a fascinating life cycle, transitioning through various stages from egg to adult moth. Let’s start with the hatching of the eggs and the main feeding stage. This is the stage that is the most noticeable and damaging to the host plant. Starting in early June into July, the larvae emerge hungry and begin constructing their protective cases using silk and surrounding plat materials. As they feed on foliage, they expand and reinforce their bags, incorporating leaves, twigs, and other debris to camouflage themselves and deter predators.    

After reaching maturity, which typically takes several weeks, the larvae stop feeding and prepare for pupation. Within the safety of their bags, they undergo metamorphosis, and the males emerge as adult moths and the female bagworm remains in the bag for mating. Once mated the female bagworm lays her eggs and their life cycle is over at this point. There can be as many as 500-1000 eggs. The eggs overwinter inside the dead female's bag and the cycle begins again in the spring.   

Feeding Habits

The larval stage of bagworm is the main feeding stage, consuming foliage from their host plants as they construct their protective bags. This feeding stage can last several weeks to a couple of months depending on environmental conditions and the availability of food sources. They use their silk threads to anchor themselves to branches or leaves, where they remain while feeding. As they consume foliage, they gradually defoliate the plant, weakening its overall health and potentially causing significant damage if left untreated. Complete defoliation often leads to plant death. Once the bagworm reaches maturity, they quit feeding and focus on mating.   

Main Host Plants

Bagworms are known to infest a wide range of host plants. Some of the most common host plants for bagworms include:  

• Evergreens: Arborvitae, juniper, cedar, pine, spruce, and cypress are often targeted by bagworms, which can cause severe damage to these trees if left unchecked.  

• Deciduous Trees: Bagworms may also infest deciduous trees such as honey locust, oak, maple, sycamore, willow, and poplar, feeding on their leaves and weakening the overall health of the tree.  

• Ornamental Shrubs: Boxwood, azalea, holly, and other ornamental shrubs are susceptible to bagworm infestations, which can defoliate and disfigure these plants if not addressed promptly.  

While bagworms are adaptable and may infest various plant species, their preference for evergreen trees is most common.  

Colorado blue spruce with bagworms

Twig dieback due to bagworms

Treatment Options 

Managing bagworm infestations can be done in a few ways - culturally, mechanically, or with chemical control methods. The most effective strategy will depend on the severity of the infestation and the size of the plants that are being treated. The following are some effective strategies for treating bagworm infestations:  

• Handpicking: In smaller infestations, manually removing bags from affected plants can be an effective control method. Simply pluck the bags from the branches and dispose of them properly to attempt to prevent future infestations.  You can throw them in the trash or burn them.

• Biological Control: Introducing natural predators of bagworms, such as parasitic wasps, or predatory insects, can help reduce populations naturally without the need for chemical intervention. (Flowers with lots of nectar can attract these predator insects). I like this method but do not recommend relying on it for managing heavily infested plants.

• Insecticides: Applying two well timed insecticide sprays spaced two weeks apart has been the most effective way to control bagworms. Applying the product early while the larva is feeding and in the initial stages of making their bag is essential. Once they have constructed a bag around their bodies, insecticides are far less effective.

- - -

Bagworms may be small but their impact on plants can be quite serious. The damage is not obvious early in the season because the caterpillars and their bags are small, and the bags can be difficult to see until large numbers are present. Bagworms often are not detected by the untrained observer until August after severe defoliation has occurred. Getting to the plants early and detecting a problem can save a lot of headaches. At Russell Tree Experts we are trained to spot bagworms and use the OSU phenology calendar to properly time applications for effective control. 

Additional Arbor Ed Articles!

Tree Preservation Videos!

Sincerely,

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Be Alert: Lecanium Scale

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 16, 2024​

“What is wrong with my tree?”

This is a question we receive on a daily basis. Sometimes it is obvious what is going on with your tree, but other times it may require a more thorough investigation. Many of the more obvious tree problems can be the result of mechanical, environmental or disease problems. However, the issue that I am writing about today is insect related, which often is less noticeable until populations get out of hand and start to cause damage. One such insect that can cause significant damage to trees this time of year is the European fruit lecanium scale. This is just one of many types of scale, so proper identification is a must as most scale insects have different life cycles and different control recommendations.

Female lecanium scale

Lecanium scale is considered a soft scale with a wide host range. In central Ohio, trees that are most affected by this insect are callery pear, crabapple, and fruit trees; although we do occasionally see infestations in birch,  honeylocust, oak, and hickory trees. Lecanium scale is most noticeable when the females fill up with eggs. Over 1,000 eggs can be produced by one female. This is why the insect can get out of control quickly if left unnoticed and untreated.

Scale typically overwinter as second instar nymphs on the bark of trees. This stage is sometimes hard to notice, unless there are dead females from the previous year present at the same time. As your plants begin to break bud and leaf out in the early spring, this is when lecanium scale starts to feed. As the females feed and start to produce eggs, you’ll can easily see the large bump like structures on the stems of infested trees. You may also notice honeydew starting to drip from the branches as well. The honeydew on heavily infested trees can make everything under the tree very sticky. This attracts many other insects like flies, wasps, and ants. It also supports the growth of a black sooty mold, which can negatively affect plant growth as well. The eggs typically hatch in early to mid-June coinciding with the bloom of the Washington hawthorn tree in Ohio. This is called the crawler stage when the eggs hatch and crawl out to the leaves to begin feeding. This is the time when lecanium scale are at their most vulnerable stage. After feeding through the summer, the insect returns to the bark to overwinter.

Second-instar nymphs that overwintered on the tree stems. Note white waxy covering beginning to form. Scales are in their final fixed position, actively feeding and growing. Note droplets of honeydew here and there.

Each of these nymphs will mature into adult females that will be about 10 times their current size by the time they lay their clutch of 100 or more eggs.

This is a new infestation. An old infestation would also have the dead female bodies of last year’s adults alongside the current generation. They would be dark brown and about the size of BBs used for air gun ammunition.

There are many natural predators that feed on lecanium scale, but generally there are not enough to control large populations. This is when treatment options are beneficial. Every situation is different and may require different treatment strategies. Our ISA Certified Arborists® can visit your property and determine the best course of action.  

The most effective way to keep lecanium scale out of your landscape is to avoid planting host plants like crabapples, weeping cherry and callery pear. Keeping plants healthy, vigorous and stress free will also help to reduce the likelihood that lecanium scale takes up residence in your trees. If lecanium scale do make their way into your landscape, two well timed topical insecticide sprays on the crawler stage can help reduce and keep the population at a threshold that damage to the tree is minimal. On very small trees, adults can be removed and destroyed by hand before the eggs hatch.

If you think lecanium scale is a problem on your tree, please give us a call and one of our ISA Certified Arborists® will come out to inspect your landscape and provide the best course of action!

CHECK OUT THESE ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Tree Care Videos!

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.