Some Mites Like It Hot... Ready or Not!

By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist®
July 25, 2024​

As the average temperatures rise, hungry spider mites thrive! These tiny leaf suckers love hot and dry weather and are currently causing many of our beloved foundation shrubs to look sickly and even lose their leaves entirely.

Spider mites on a burning bush

Spider mite damage on burning bush (Euomymus alatus) and on boxwood (Buxus sp.) is common in the summer months. These typically dependably green shrubs will begin to take on a yellow or bronze cast when infested, and, upon closer inspection, a distinct stippling or scratched appearance of the leaves will become apparent. This characteristic pattern is caused by feeding of the mites on the undersides of the plant’s leaves. Many generations of this tiny sucker can occur per summer. A complete generation can take less than a week during 90°F temperatures and without significant rainfall. That’s a lot of babies at 100 eggs per female!

The twospotted spider mite is the species that afflicts the burning bush. These mites will also feed on many other species when available including viburnum, roses, edible plants, perennials and houseplants. In full sun conditions (especially near hardscape like driveways or brick walls) you may see their webbing binding the leaves and even tiny mites moving within the web. This species of mite overwinters as adults in leaf litter and in soil. It's important to clean up and bag any fallen leaves in the fall so that you can reduce the population of these pests before they wake up next spring.

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Burning bush with spider mites

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The boxwood spider mite can only feed on boxwood species. This makes it a “host specific” species of spider mite and will not cause damage to any other plants in your landscape. This mite also differs from the twospotted spider mite in that it creates no webs, it feeds on the upper surface of the leaf as well as the bottom surface and it overwinters as eggs on the boxwood plant.

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Boxwood with spider mites

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If you want to check your plants for these "pepper sized" pests or suspect you may have a growing spider mite issue, the best way is to firmly smack the twig over a white piece of paper. Look closely and you may see tiny mites crawling on the paper.

As a preventative measure, it is a great idea to give both your burning bushes and boxwoods a heavy spray with your hose nozzle. Do this twice a week in hot, dry weather (over 85°F). Concentrate on the undersides of the leaves especially to attempt to dislodge adults and eggs.

Keeping your plants watered during the summer also really helps to curb serious infestations. If plants are stressed for water, they will be much more likely to become overrun with spider mites and also insect pests like scale, aphids and lacebug.

If you would like one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® to scout your landscape for spider mites and give you options to control these proliferous pests, please contact our office at (614) 895-7000 or request a free quote at RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote. We offer many options to get spider mites under control and we will help determine the best course of action for your specific trees and shrubs! Have a great summer and make sure to keep yourself watered as well!

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Sincerely,

Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts

Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]

Bagworms: Why they are bad news & How to get rid of them

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 23, 2024​

A bagworm on a Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens)

Bagworms are a serious pest to a variety of ornamental plants in our landscapes. Bagworms are the caterpillars of a moth. These caterpillars are called “bagworms” because they wrap themselves in a bag constructed of material from their host plant. The bags camouflage the bagworms from predators as they feed and can also make effective treatments challenging. Understanding their life cycle, preferred host plants, feeding habits, and effective treatment methods are crucial for managing infestations and preserving the health of your plants. 

Life Cycle of Bagworms

Bagworms undergo a fascinating life cycle, transitioning through various stages from egg to adult moth. Let’s start with the hatching of the eggs and the main feeding stage. This is the stage that is the most noticeable and damaging to the host plant. Starting in early June into July, the larvae emerge hungry and begin constructing their protective cases using silk and surrounding plat materials. As they feed on foliage, they expand and reinforce their bags, incorporating leaves, twigs, and other debris to camouflage themselves and deter predators.    

After reaching maturity, which typically takes several weeks, the larvae stop feeding and prepare for pupation. Within the safety of their bags, they undergo metamorphosis, and the males emerge as adult moths and the female bagworm remains in the bag for mating. Once mated the female bagworm lays her eggs and their life cycle is over at this point. There can be as many as 500-1000 eggs. The eggs overwinter inside the dead female's bag and the cycle begins again in the spring.   

Feeding Habits

The larval stage of bagworm is the main feeding stage, consuming foliage from their host plants as they construct their protective bags. This feeding stage can last several weeks to a couple of months depending on environmental conditions and the availability of food sources. They use their silk threads to anchor themselves to branches or leaves, where they remain while feeding. As they consume foliage, they gradually defoliate the plant, weakening its overall health and potentially causing significant damage if left untreated. Complete defoliation often leads to plant death. Once the bagworm reaches maturity, they quit feeding and focus on mating.   

Main Host Plants

Bagworms are known to infest a wide range of host plants. Some of the most common host plants for bagworms include:  

• Evergreens: Arborvitae, juniper, cedar, pine, spruce, and cypress are often targeted by bagworms, which can cause severe damage to these trees if left unchecked.  

• Deciduous Trees: Bagworms may also infest deciduous trees such as honey locust, oak, maple, sycamore, willow, and poplar, feeding on their leaves and weakening the overall health of the tree.  

• Ornamental Shrubs: Boxwood, azalea, holly, and other ornamental shrubs are susceptible to bagworm infestations, which can defoliate and disfigure these plants if not addressed promptly.  

While bagworms are adaptable and may infest various plant species, their preference for evergreen trees is most common.  

Colorado blue spruce with bagworms

Twig dieback due to bagworms

Treatment Options 

Managing bagworm infestations can be done in a few ways - culturally, mechanically, or with chemical control methods. The most effective strategy will depend on the severity of the infestation and the size of the plants that are being treated. The following are some effective strategies for treating bagworm infestations:  

• Handpicking: In smaller infestations, manually removing bags from affected plants can be an effective control method. Simply pluck the bags from the branches and dispose of them properly to attempt to prevent future infestations.  You can throw them in the trash or burn them.

• Biological Control: Introducing natural predators of bagworms, such as parasitic wasps, or predatory insects, can help reduce populations naturally without the need for chemical intervention. (Flowers with lots of nectar can attract these predator insects). I like this method but do not recommend relying on it for managing heavily infested plants.

• Insecticides: Applying two well timed insecticide sprays spaced two weeks apart has been the most effective way to control bagworms. Applying the product early while the larva is feeding and in the initial stages of making their bag is essential. Once they have constructed a bag around their bodies, insecticides are far less effective.

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Bagworms may be small but their impact on plants can be quite serious. The damage is not obvious early in the season because the caterpillars and their bags are small, and the bags can be difficult to see until large numbers are present. Bagworms often are not detected by the untrained observer until August after severe defoliation has occurred. Getting to the plants early and detecting a problem can save a lot of headaches. At Russell Tree Experts we are trained to spot bagworms and use the OSU phenology calendar to properly time applications for effective control. 

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Sincerely,

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Rhizosphaera Needle Cast: Causes, Symptoms, and Management

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
May 2, 2024​

Rhizosphaera needle cast is a fungal disease that affects various species of coniferous trees, particularly spruces throughout central Ohio and the midwest, and has become increasingly common. This disease can cause significant damage to tree health and aesthetics if left untreated. Understanding its causes, symptoms, and management strategies is crucial for preventing its spread and minimizing its impact on host trees in your landscape. Rhizosphaera needle cast, or needle cast for short, is primarily caused by the fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii. This fungus thrives in humid and wet conditions, which Ohio is seeing more and more of now. Spores of the fungus are spread through water splash, wind, and contaminated pruning tools, facilitating its transmission from infected to healthy trees. Colorado blue spruce trees (Picea pungens) is especially vulnerable due to the fact that they much prefer dry, arid environments like in Colorado and Utah.

A young Colorado blue spruce tree (Picea pungens) rapidly defoliating

Symptoms

The symptoms of needle cast typically appear on older needles first and progress upwards through the tree. Common symptoms to look out for are:

• Needle Discoloration: Infected needles initially develop yellow or light green spots, which gradually turn brown or purple-ish brown as the disease progresses.

• Needle Dropping: Infected needles may prematurely drop from the tree, leading to sparse foliage and an overall thinning of the canopy.

• Black Fruiting Bodies: Under close inspection, black fruiting bodies (spores) of the fungus may be visible on the surface of infected needles, particularly during humid conditions. This shows up as very fine black peppering found on the underside of the needles.

Black fruiting bodies (spores) of the fungus fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii on the surface of infected needles

Effective management strategies of Rhizosphaera needle cast involves a combination of cultural practices, chemical control, and preventive measures.  

Cultural Practices

• Proper Tree Spacing: Ensuring adequate spacing between trees promotes good air circulation, reducing humidity levels and minimizing fungal growth.

• Pruning: Prune infected branches to improve air circulation within the canopy and remove sources of fungal spores. Also, lightly elevating the canopy of a tree above the ground can help increase airflow.

• Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of trees to retain soil moisture and reduce stress, which can help trees resist fungal infections. 
  

Chemical Control

Apply fungicidal sprays containing active ingredients such as chlorothalonil or copper hydroxide during the spring months as new growth is emerging. Multiple applications in 10 to 14-day intervals applied annually are most effective, however, there is no end-all cure for this fungal disease.

Preventive Measures

• Monitoring: Regularly inspect trees for early signs of infection, especially during periods of high humidity.

• Water Management: Avoid overhead watering and excessive irrigation, as these practices can create ideal conditions for fungal growth. Water trees in the morning to avoid foliage staying wet overnight.

• Plant Selection: Some other options that may be suitable for your landscape include, but are not limited to: Concolor fir (if you desire the silvery blue color), Norway spruce, green giant arborvitae, and Canadian hemlock.  

Purple-ish brown needles

Rhizosphaera needle cast poses a significant threat to the health and vitality of coniferous trees, particularly Colorado blue spruce. By understanding the causes, symptoms, and management strategies associated with this fungal disease I hope that you will, as a Colorado blue spruce owner, help keep these beautiful trees healthy. Through a combination of cultural practices, chemical controls, and preventive measures, it is possible to mitigate the impact of Rhizosphaera needle cast and preserve the beauty and ecological value of our coniferous forests and landscapes. Please reach out to Russell Tree Experts if you suspect your trees are infected or need advice on proper maintenance as our ISA Certified Arborists® (myself included) are happy to take a look! Have a happy summer and we look forward to helping you with your trees!

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

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10 Boxwood Alternatives

Dear Reader,

My introduction into the horticultural world was working at a small retail nursery in the early 2000s. Back then, when a customer would ask for an easy to grow, low maintenance, no brainer plant, boxwood is what we would often recommend. Fast forward twenty years and today boxwood have to contend with boxwood leaf miner, boxwood psyllid, spider mites, volutella stem canker, winterburn, boxwood blight and most recently, a new disease known as boxwood dieback. Historically, Boxwood have been appreciated in the landscape because they are evergreen, deer proof, compact, easy to manipulate and respond well to pruning/shearing. But they are no longer the maintenance free, easy to grow plants they once were. 2023 was a particularly bad year for boxwood in central Ohio and every arborist, landscaper and plant person I know was overwhelmed with calls from desperate clients willing to try anything to restore their boxwood to how they once looked. Many of the boxwood installations I observed this year are beyond preservation. Others will likely recover over the next two to three growing seasons but may look a little rough along the way. Much of the damage that occurred to boxwood this year is a result of the cold weather event we had just before the holiday season of 2022, where temperatures changed from 40 degrees Fahrenheit into the negatives in less than 12 hours. There is no topical spray or any professional service that can be offered to combat this sort of environmental event. And many of the boxwood that were able to survive the initial cold temperatures succumbed later to disease spreading pathogens seeking a stressed and vulnerable host. Even under normal weather conditions, most boxwood require regular applications of insecticides and dormant oils to protect them from insect pests that have taken advantage of their abundance. The best management strategy for the prevention of disease and insect pests on our plants is to use plants that do not get those diseases and insect pests. So as you are wrapping up your Fall landscape plantings or making plans for next Spring, consider something new for your hedges, accent plants and foundation plantings. Here are 10 suggestions for plants to consider with similar characteristics to boxwood.

1. Blue Holly

Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) is a hybrid between the cold hardy Asian prostrate holly (Ilex rugosa) and English holly (Ilex aquifolium). It is one of my personal favorite evergreen shrubs and has lustrous dark green/blue leaves and dark red berries on female plants that ultimately feed the robins and mockingbirds around late winter to early spring. Individual plants form a shrubby upright to pyramidal habit and can grow 8 to 12 feet in height by 6 to 8 feet in width. Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) can easily be pruned into hedges and can be kept at any height or width with minimal, annual pruning. They are cold hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit and adaptable to both full sun or partial shade. Several cultivated varieties of this hybrid exist with my personal favorites being Blue Princess and Blue Prince.

NOTE:  Holly plants require a male pollinator to achieve fruit. Make sure to include at least one male plant (like Blue Prince), and possibly more depending on the size of your Holly plantings to improve fruiting.

Negatives: Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) can have significant leaf burn when temperatures drop below -10 degrees Fahrenheit (although established plants recover quickly in the Spring). They are susceptible to phytophthora (root rot) in poorly drained sites and deer browsing during the winter when snow persists for days at a time.

2. Privet

Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is a densely branched shrub with dark green to yellowish green leaves that can easily be manipulated into rounded plants and hedges. Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is fast growing and adaptable to a wide range of soils and growing conditions; I’ve observed many well kept privet hedges that would give boxwood a run for its money during the spring or summer. The foliage persists late into the fall often turning purple but is not evergreen. There are no serious disease or insect problems and oftentimes plants seem to thrive with neglect. Several different species and many different cultivars exist for a range of size, texture and leaf color.

Negatives: Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is not native to central Ohio and can easily spread by seed into native areas and out compete native species. They are also not evergreen.

3. Wintercreeper euonymus

Until recently I have always considered this species of euonymus to be best used as a ground cover or climber on a tree or trellis. More and more though, I’m seeing it in the landscape pruned into a very small and cute hedge or sculpted into 1 to 2 feet tall and wide mounds looking very similar to boxwood. Euonymus in general is fast growing and adaptable from full sun, to full shade, and to just about any landscape situation that isn’t a swamp. Leaves are evergreen most winters (leaf drop can occur when temps drop below -20 F) and there are dozens of cultivated varieties for leaf size and color. I’m partial to the green and white variegated cultivar ‘Emerald Gaiety.’

Negatives: Wintercreeper euonymus (Euonymus fortunei) is not native and can easily naturalize and take over unmanaged native areas. They can be susceptible to euonymus scale and difficult to treat successfully once a population is established.

4. Spirea

There are several species and dozens of different cultivars of spirea that mimic the compact and rounded habit of boxwood. They can be grown as separate plants, planted in masses or managed as a hedge. Spirea can grow in most landscape situations and will perform well in any soil that is not excessively wet. Spirea are easy to grow, have little insect or disease problems, respond well to pruning and shearing, and are cold hardy and adaptable to full sun and partial shade. Spirea are deciduous but even without leaves, the stems and twigs are so dense that the structure of the plant still provides texture and interest in the winter landscape.

Negatives: Spirea are not evergreen. They can get powdery mildew but it has little impact on the overall health of the plant. Spirea may also be somewhat overused in the landscape but for good reason - it is almost impossible to kill.

5. Japanese HollY

Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is another compact evergreen shrub with a rounded habit and dark green foliage through the growing season and through the winter. They can grow 3 to 5 feet in height and width, although I have observed larger plants in arboreta. Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is cold hardy to - 20 degrees Fahrenheit and adaptable to both full sun or partial shade. They respond well to pruning/shearing and can be used in hedges, foundation plantings, or in masses. Several different cultivars are available for different sizes, colors, and superior cold hardiness.

Negatives: Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is slow growing and not tolerant of high pH soils. They are a preferred host to spider mites during extended periods of drought. Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is not well known in Ohio and could be difficult to source. I would avoid using the upright cultivar ‘Sky pencil’ unless in a warmer protected spot with exceptionally well drained soil.

6. Globe arborvitae

Globe arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Globosa’ or ‘Little Gem’) is a compact and rounded form of our native eastern arborvitae. Its leaves are bright green in the spring and summer but turn more bronze or yellowish green during the winter months. Globosa arborvitae is a dwarf form and matures to only 5 to 6 feet tall and wide. They are very adaptable to different soil types and respond well to pruning and shearing. Globosa arborvitae can be used as a specimen plant or accent plant as well as in hedges or foundation plantings. Little gem arborvitae has essentially the same habit as globosa arborvitae but are smaller, maturing to a height of about only 3 feet tall. Either cultivar will perform well from full sun to partial shade (but they should have at least a half day of sunlight).

Negatives: Deer will eat arborvitae to bare wood when hungry. They are also a preferred host to bagworm and spider mites.

7. Yew

Yew (Taxus spp.) is a hardy and easy to grow evergreen shrub. I use them primarily for screening in the parts of my garden that receive less sun, but they can be easily manipulated and sculpted into tight hedges, mazes, and formal shapes in the same fashion that we often treat boxwood. Yew are very adaptable and urban tolerant and can withstand almost any amount of pruning. They will grow well in sun and shade and have few disease or pest problems. If they are used as an alternative to boxwood, I recommend the cultivars ‘Runyan’ or ‘Densiformis’.

Negatives: Yew are susceptible to deer browsing

8. Japanese Plum Yew 

Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) is similar to yew, but with longer and glossier needles. I have planted this in more than one rural location and my experience so far is that deer will not touch them. Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) should be considered by anyone that likes yew but has given up because of continual deer damage. There are several different cultivars selected for a range of different sizes and habits but ‘Duke Gardens’ is the cultivar I recommend for central Ohio gardens and for anyone wishing to experiment with using Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) to replace boxwood. This cultivar matures to approximately 2 to 3 feet in height, approximately 3 to 4 feet in width and is cold hardy to - 20 degree fahrenheit.  There are no serious pest or disease problems.

Negatives: Straight species is not cold hardy in true zone 5 winters (winters that reach -20 F). I observed significant winterburn in the plants in my garden from the cold snap we had just before the holiday season of 2022.

9. Inkberry 

This is one of the boxwood alternatives that I think has the most potential. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) is native to the east coastal plains of the US and is a compact evergreen shrub with lustrous, dark green leaves during the growing season. Foliage can bronze somewhat during the winter months. Without pruning, inkberry (Ilex glabra) can reach heights of 6 to 8 feet tall with a width of 8 to 10 feet wide. Female plants can produce a small, pea-sized black berry (hence the name inkberry) that is edible to birds. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) performs well from full sun to full shade (foliage density is better with at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight) and is cold hardy to - 20 degrees fahrenheit; although I have observed winterburn in exposed plants during winters with temperatures that have dropped below zero for extended periods of time. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) responds quite well to heavy pruning or shearing and has strong regenerative growth in established plants. They can easily be used as individual specimen plants or in hedges. I recommend using the cultivars ‘Cape Cod’ or ‘Compacta’ if available. These selections maintain a more rounded and compact habit with less pruning.

Negatives: Inkberry (Ilex glabra) is not tolerant of excessively high pH soils and plants can lose lower leaves and become quite leggy if not well managed. I have observed significant deer browsing during periods of extended snow cover in landscapes with a high deer population.

10. Canadian Hemlock

Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is one of my favorite evergreen trees. It is a native and graceful evergreen tree with glossy dark green needles that also responds well to aggressive pruning. When my wife and I moved into our current home in 2008, we planted 36 Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) on 5 foot centers around the perimeter of our front and side yards. We keep these plants sculpted into a tight 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide pyramidal shaped hedge which we prune once a year in the late spring, approximately a month after new growth has pushed out. This could make an excellent replacement for a tall boxwood hedge.

Negatives: Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is susceptible to deer browsing during the winter months with extended periods of snow. They are a preferred host to spruce spider mites when under stress. Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) also have poor tolerance to drought.

These 10 plants are just the beginning of the conversation regarding boxwood alternatives. There are dozens of other cultivated varieties of chamaecyparis, juniper, spruce, pine, fir, leucothoe, etc that could fulfill the same niche in many of our gardens. I believe there is a perfect substitute out there for every plant. The perfect substitute for your needs will depend on your individual situation and landscape.

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Illustrations by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts

Why Are We "Buckeyes?"

Dear Reader,

As I sat in my family room on Friday night making buckeye necklaces for friends and family before The Ohio State University football team faced off against Penn State, I began to wonder why anyone would call themselves the “Buckeyes?”I like to think a team prefers to have a name that intimidates or even scares an opponent, but not us. Many throughout central Ohio consider themselves “Buckeyes” even if they didn’t attend The Ohio State University. However, what does it mean to be a buckeye and why is the identity of Columbus based around this unique nut from a tree? Well, there is actually quite a bit of history surrounding the Ohio buckeye tree (Aesculus glabra) in our beautiful state and the story of how it was adopted by our university may not be well known.  

[Illustration by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]

The Ohio Buckeye has palmately compound leaves, usually comprising of five (occasionally seven) leaflets. The leaves are bright green in the spring and summer, turning to yellow and gold in the fall, creating a stunning display of autumn colors. In the spring, the Ohio Buckeye produces clusters of small, tubular, greenish-yellow flowers. These flowers are a valuable nectar source for pollinators, including bees and butterflies. The most iconic feature of this tree is the nut, the name of which is thought to be derived from its resemblance to the eye of a deer or “Buck-eye.” These nuts are encased in a spiky, leathery husk that splits open in the fall to reveal the glossy, dark brown nut. While they might resemble true chestnuts, it's important to note that buckeye nuts are not edible and can be toxic if ingested.

[Illustration by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]

Early settlers used these nuts to craft buttons and the trees themselves became valuable for their wood and ornamental qualities. It didn't take long for the buckeye tree to become an integral part of American culture. The first recorded use of the term Buckeye was in 1788 to refer to a settler. Colonel Ebenezer Sproat, who happened to be large in both size and character, was aptly named Hetuck (the Indian word for buckeye) by local natives. He proudly carried the Buckeye nickname for the rest of his life and the label gradually spread to his companions and other local settlers. By the 1830s, writers were commonly referring to locals as “Buckeyes.” The Buckeye nickname became even more commonplace during the 1840 presidential campaign when Ohioan William Henry Harrison was running for president. His supporters wore buckeye-shaped wooden tokens as a sign of their allegiance, and the nickname stuck. Some even believed that carrying a buckeye nut could bring good luck similar to a rabbit’s foot or a four-leaf clover.  The buckeye continued to resonate with Ohioans and became the state tree in 1953.

The Buckeye & The Ohio State University

Learn more about the history of Brutus Buckeye
[Illustration by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]

In the early 1950s, The Ohio State University held a contest to select a new mascot. A student named Dick Doan, who was a cartoonist for the university's student newspaper, suggested the buckeye as a potential symbol because of its significance to Ohio. Prior to this, The Ohio State University hadn’t solidified any formal name. In 1950, The Ohio State officially adopted the name "Buckeyes" and became associated with the university's athletic teams and more. It wasn’t until 1965 that two students, Ray Bourhis and Sally Huber, formalized this tree nut as the official mascot that has been an iconic figure for Ohio State ever since. During this period, schools were known to bring live animal mascots to stadiums and the idea of corralling a live buck didn’t seem like the brightest idea. Instead, they delved back into our state’s historical roots and opted for the simple buckeye nut. An unnamed papier-mâché mascot inspired by the buckeye nut entered Ohio Stadium on October 30th, 1965 during a football game against Minnesota. Shortly afterwards, OSU held a contest to pick a name for the mascot which ultimately led to who we know today as Brutus Buckeye, responsible for the daunting task of rallying fans and encouraging our athletics teams!

Buckeye Grove (pictured above) at The Ohio State University, located just south of Ohio Stadium, is filled with various buckeye trees!

Today, the buckeye is a well-known symbol of The Ohio State University and the buckeye leaf logo is recognized across the country, particularly in the realm of college sports. The buckeye tree and the nuts it produces are closely associated with the state of Ohio and have become a source of pride for OSU and its fans. So next time you’re cheering on our Buckeyes, feel free to quiz those around you to see who really knows why our beloved university chose a toxic nut as a lasting symbol.

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

Illustrations by Kenny Greer, ©Russell Tree Experts

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✅Wafer Ash

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General Info

• Latin Name - Ptelea trifoliata

• Native Range - Ontario and New York to Florida, west to Minnesota and parts of Colorado and Arizona

• Growth Rate - Medium

• Mature Height - 15 – 20’

• Mature Spread - 15 – 20’

Arborist Thoughts

• A great native plant that can perform well in full sun to full shade, Wafer Ash is easy to grow, adaptable, and should be considered for the small landscape or as a street tree in areas with low hanging utilities.

• No significant pest or disease problems

• Host to Giant Swallowtail butterfly

• Fruit of wafer ash has been used as a substitute for Hops and is sometimes referred to as Hoptree.

🚫Tree of Heaven

>>>DO NOT PLANT OR ALLOW TO GROW ON YOUR PROPERTY<<<

General Info

• Latin Name: Ailanthus altissima

• Native Range: China

• Growth Rate: Fast

• Mature Height: 40 – 60’

• Mature Spread: 25 – 40’

Arborist Thoughts

• Introduced from China in the late 1700s as a shade tree and horticultural specimen, this tree now threatens to overwhelm our native areas and landscapes.

• Its ease of establishment, prolific seed production, rapid growth, absence of significant disease/pests and ability to out compete other plants with allelopathy (producing toxic compounds to poison its competition) has made it possible for Tree-of-Heaven to invade natural areas and suppress the growth of native trees.

• Tree of Heaven is considered an invasive species and should be ruthlessly eliminated.

• DO NOT PLANT OR ALLOW TO GROW ON YOUR PROPERTY

✅Serbian Spruce

General Info

• Latin Name - Picea omorika
• Native Range - Southeastern Europe
• Growth Rate - Slow to Medium
• Mature Height - 50–60’
• Mature Spread - 20–25’
  

Arborist Thoughts

• One of the most adaptable spruces and one of the most graceful and beautiful evergreen trees in general.
• An excellent evergreen tree for urban areas because of its narrower growth habit, unlike Norway spruce and White pine that can become quite wide and unruly at maturity.
• Less susceptible to insect infestation and needle cast diseases than other spruce.
• Should be considered as an alternative to using White spruce or Blue spruce in the landscape.

✅Persimmon

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General Info

• Latin Name - Diospyros virginiana
• Native Range - Connecticut to Florida, west to Kansas and Texas
• Growth Rate - Medium
• Mature Height - 35–60’
• Mature Spread - 30–35’

Arborist Thoughts

• Persimmon is a great native tree that can perform well in the toughest sites.  It is drought tolerant and will thrive in soils with low fertility and areas with restricted root zones.
• Produces a large edible berry that ripens late September through October (although flavor is best after the first hard frost).
• Good tree for reliable yellow to red Fall color.
• Could be used as a specimen tree, street tree or in the edible landscape.

✅Persian Parrotia

General Info

• Latin Name - Parrotia persica
• Native Range - Iran
• Growth Rate - Medium
• Mature Height - 25–40’
• Mature Spread - 15–30’

Arborist Thoughts

• One of the best specimen trees available, interesting bark, attractive foliage, interesting flowers, showy fall color and excellent disease/pest resistance make this a tree a must have for all landscapes.
• Parrotia is often grown as a multi-stemmed large shrub but single stem more traditional tree form cultivated varieties like ‘Vanessa’ and ‘Red Bull’ are becoming readily available and would make a great street tree.

✅Pawpaw

General Info

• Latin Name - Asimina triloba

• Native Range - New York to Florida, west to Nebraska and Texas

• Growth Rate - Medium

• Mature Height - 15–30’

• Mature Spread - 15–20’
  

Arborist Thoughts

• Our largest native edible fruit tree in North America, Pawpaw is easy to grow (in full sun to shade), adaptable to most soil types and has no significant disease or pest problems.

• Interesting purple flowers in Spring give way to edible greenish yellow fruits in late Summer. Flavor is similar to banana/pear/mango.

• Great tree for edible landscaping or naturalizing in low areas or edge of woods. Has been used successfully as a street tree in some Columbus neighborhoods.

• Host to Zebra Swallowtail butterfly.

✅White Shield Osage Orange

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General Info

• Latin Name - Maclura pomifera ‘White Shield’
• Native Range - Arkansas to Oklahoma and Texas
• Growth Rate - Fast
• Mature Height - 30–40’
• Mature Spread - 30–40’
  

Arborist Thoughts

• Named after the White Shield creek in Oklahoma near where the original tree was discovered, this cultivated variety of Osage Orange is both thornless and fruitless. 
• Dark green glossy foliage looks as good at the end of the growing season as it did when leaves first emerged in Spring.  No real fall color or noticeable flowers
• Not the best tree for ornamental appeal but is fast growing in youth, tough, and adaptable to most sites.
• Excellent tree for a street tree or use in institutional or unmanaged sites being both drought tolerant and pest/disease resistant

✅Overcup Oak

General Info

• Latin Name - Quercus lyrata
• Native Range - New Jersey to Florida, west to Missouri and Texas
• Growth Rate - Medium, Fast in youth
• Mature Height - 40–60’
• Mature Spread - 40–60’
  

Arborist Thoughts

• An excellent oak for use in challenging sites.  Overcup oak is a bottomlands species in its native habitat and adapts well to poor quality soils, poorly drained sites and restricted root zones.
• Overcup oak transplants well and is faster growing than most other oaks in the white oak group.
• Great specimen tree or a street tree for areas where overhead utilities are not an issue.

✅Lacebark Pine

General Info

• Latin Name - Pinus bungeana
• Native Range - China
• Growth Rate - Slow
• Mature Height - 30–50’
• Mature Spread - 20–30

Arborist Thoughts

• The Lacebark Pine is one of the most beautiful and interesting pines because of its attractive exfoliating bark at maturity.  The bark is initially green but will begin to flake off revealing, brown, white and silver areas once stems reach 1.5 – 2 inches in diameter.
• Hardy and adaptable to high pH soils and makes an excellent specimen tree when planted in a location where the bark is visible
• Could also be used for screening as an alternative to other commonly used evergreens

✅Ginkgo

General Info

• Latin Name - Ginkgo biloba
• Native Range - Eastern China
• Growth Rate - Slow to Medium
• Mature Height - 50–80’
• Mature Spread - 30–50’

Arborist Thoughts

• An excellent and incredibly hardy shade tree that has stood the test of time – Ginkgo goes as far back as the dinosaurs (270 million years ago).
• Ginkgo has no known disease problems or insect predation and can grow well in a wide range of soil types and urban conditions including confined spaces.
• Ginkgo has unique, fan shaped leaves and stunning Golden-yellow Autumn color making it one of the most distinct and beautiful of all trees during the Fall season.
• Ginkgo trees can be male or female and the fruit of the female tree is considered messy and smells unpleasant.   Several male cultivated varieties of Ginkgo are available such as ‘Saratoga,’ ‘Princeton Sentry,’ and ‘Autumn Gold.’ 

✅Kousa Dogwood

General Info

• Latin Name - Cornus kousa
• Native Range - Japan, Korea, China
• Growth Rate - Slow to Medium
• Mature Height - 20–30’
• Mature Spread: 20–30’

Arborist Thoughts

• Kousa dogwood is a great ornamental tree for multi-seasonal interest.  Beautiful white flowers (technically bracts in late Spring, attractive exfoliating bark, showy red fruit edible fruit and reliable red Fall color in the foliage.

• Kousa dogwood is more sun tolerant, heat tolerant, and drought tolerant than our native dogwood and  less susceptible to fungal diseases like anthracnose and powdery mildew.

✅Korean Evodia

General Info

• Latin Name - Evodia daniellii
• Native Range - Northern China, Korea
• Growth Rate - Medium to Fast
• Mature Height - 25–35’
• Mature Spread - 25–35’

Arborist Thoughts

• This small to medium-sized tree could make a great front yard specimen in a smaller landscape or be used well as a street tree where growing height is limited.

• Korean evodia flowers late June – early August with attractive white flowers that provide quite a show when few other woody plants are in flower.  White flowers lead to attractive shiny red and black fruit.  Also, a great source of nectar for honeybees and other pollinators.

• Korean evodia has no significant disease or insect problems and is adaptable to most soil types and soil pH.

✅Japanese Zelkova

General Info

• Latin Name - Zelkova serrata
• Native Range - Japan, Korea, Taiwan
• Growth Rate - Medium, Fast in youth
• Mature Height - 50–80’
• Mature Spread - 40–50’

Arborist Thoughts

• Another great urban tolerant tree that deserves more consideration in the landscape or as a street tree.

• Japanese zelkova has an upright vase shaped habit, attractive exfoliating bark at maturity and stunning apricot to red fall color.

• Would make a great alternative to Red maple for folks seeing a tree with reliable Fall color. 

✅Dawn Redwood

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General Info

• Latin Name - Metasequoia glyptostroboides
• Native Range - Central China
• Growth Rate - Fast
• Mature Height - 70–100’
• Mature Spread - 5–30’

Arborist Thoughts

• Thought to be extinct until discovered in China in the 1940s, Dawn Redwood is a great tree for a site that can handle some height.

• Very fast growing, no serious disease or insect problems and can survive in a wide range of soil types and climates.

• Dawn redwood is deciduous conifer so needles do fall of in the Fall but not before turning a nice coppery orange color.

• A great tree to consider for folks looking to establish shade or a large screen in a short amount of time. 

✅Concolor Fir

General Info

• Latin Name - Abies concolor
• Native Range - Colorado to Southern California and parts of New Mexico
• Growth Rate - Slow to Medium
• Mature Height - 30–50’
• Mature Spread - 15–30’

Arborist Thoughts

• This magnificent evergreen deserves more use in the Midwest landscape. 

• Needles have a beautiful silvery blue color and citrusy fragrance.

• Concolor Fir is drought tolerant, urban tolerant/adaptable, has little insect or pest problems and is a narrower tree than other large evergreens making it better suited for smaller landscape sites.

• Would make an excellent alternative to Blue Spruce in the landscape.