The 5 Steps to Become an ISA Certified Arborist®!

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 27, 2025

Have you ever wondered how to become an ISA Certified Arborist®? To first answer this question, it’s probably good to know what an arborist is and what the acronym ISA means. An arborist is a professional who practices arboriculture and the study, management, and cultivation of trees, shrubs, and other woody plants. ISA is the International Society of Arboriculture, a non-profit organization that serves the tree care industry by promoting the professional, proper practice of arboriculture, developing arborists’ skills and expertise, and educating the public about trees, their benefits, and how to properly care for them. ISA offers multiple credentials, one of which is the ISA Certified Arborist® credential. ISA certifies that these arborists have a minimum of 3 years’ full-time experience in tree care and that they have passed the 200-question arboriculture exam focusing on 10 different categories of trees and tree work. Obtaining the ISA Certified Arborist® credential is a strong indication that an arborist is dedicated, knowledgeable, experienced, and caring when it comes to trees. To become an ISA Certified Arborist®, there are 5 general steps! 

1. DEVELOP AN INTEREST IN ARBORICULTURE 

Planting trees at our office!

The first step to becoming an ISA Certified Arborist® is to develop an interest in arboriculture such as tree species, tree identification, growing habits, tree structure, planting sites, diseases, pests, soil science, tree planting, tree preservation strategies, tree removal techniques, plant healthcare, working with trees around construction, tree risk assessment, safe practices, urban forestry, and so much more!  

2. HAVE 3 YEARS OF FULL-TIME ARBORICULTURAL EXPERIENCE 

ISA requires that testing candidates have a minimum of 3 full-time years of arboricultural work experience, formal education, or a combination of both. One example could be finishing your junior year of college at a university majoring in forestry or horticulture. Another example could be working for a tree care company for 3 years as a ground worker, climber, crew leader, plant healthcare technician, or sales manager. Other rapid-fire examples of practical arboricultural experience could be working at a nursery, landscape company, municipality, state forestry agency, utility company, an academic arboriculture department or extension program, a tree consultancy, or pest control provider. Regardless, documentation of experience with related references is required for verification. 

 3. STUDY FOR THE EXAM 

A very common guide that people use when studying for their ISA certification!

Now it’s time to study for the ISA Certified Arborist® Exam! Even though ISA requires applicants to have a minimum of 3 years of full-time arboriculture experience/education, you can study in the meantime so that you’re ready to take the exam as soon as you have 3 years under your belt. In terms of what to study, ISA recommends the 4th Edition Arborists’ Certification Study Guide. This is what I and almost everyone at Russell Tree Experts used. ISA has a practice exam on their website set up in the exact same fashion as the actual exam. There are also free resources online such as lessons on YouTube, Quizlet flashcards, and sample questions online. On Facebook, there are various groups pertaining to the ISA Certified Arborist® exam where you can ask questions, study together, and learn from one another! One other resource is the Certified Arborist Review sessions at the Ohio Tree Care Conference. There is an approximate 1-hour session for each of the 16 chapters in the study guide led by different ISA Certified Arborists® that I found incredibly beneficial! 

Duration of study is different for everyone. I know coworkers who read the book in less than a month and passed the test on the first try, but I also know coworkers who periodically studied over the course of 3 years and then passed the test as soon as they were eligible to apply. Personally, I studied approximately 1 page per day throughout 2024 since the study guide is 369 pages long, reviewed all of January 2025, and then took the test in February! 

 4. APPLY FOR AND SCHEDULE THE EXAM 

Once you are eligible and feel confident in your studies, it’s now time to apply for and schedule the ISA Certified Arborist® exam! First, you’ll want to visit ISA’s website, create an account, and then become a member of your local chapter. Central Ohio’s local chapter is Ohio Chapter ISA. Afterwards, apply for testing eligibility. This is when ISA will ask for documentation of 3 years’ work or educational experience in arboriculture. Once you’re approved, you can schedule your exam. 

Ohio Chapter ISA: Ohio’s local ISA chapter.

For the exam, you can choose between a computer-based exam or a paper-based exam. Both require you to drive to a proctored exam site. Both exams are in the same format, cover the same topics, and are at the same difficulty level. Advantages of the computer-based exam is that there are more testing sites, potentially resulting in a shorter drive in most cases, being able to know your results immediately compared to waiting up to 6 weeks to know the results of a paper-based exam, and to save time clicking your answer as opposed to filling in 200 bubbles on a scantron with the paper-based exam. Two potential downsides of a computer-based exam are that it is costlier than the paper-based exam due to a $125 administrative fee and it is a little more tedious to click back-and-forth between questions compared to flipping the physical exam book pages. Advantages of the paper-based exam are if the testing site is closer to you than the computer-based exam testing site, being able to physically flip back-and-forth more quickly between questions, and having something physical and not digital to look at for 3.5 hours in case eye strain is a concern. 

Regardless of which exam you choose, you will need to select the specific testing date and location, submit an application to take the test, and then receive approval before you are officially enrolled. At the time of writing this ARBOR ED™ article, the exam fee ranges from $170 to $405 depending on your membership status and which testing option you choose. 

 5. TAKE THE EXAM 

Now it’s time to take the exam! The ISA Certified Arborist® exam comprises of 200 multiple-choice questions. Each question has 4 possible answers. There are no “all of the above” answer options, no multiple correct answers, and no images throughout the entire exam. There are 3.5 hours allotted to complete the exam. In order to pass, a 76% or higher is required. The exam content material is divided into 10 domains of knowledge: 

1. Tree Biology (11%) 

2. Identification and Selection (9%) 

3. Soil Management (7%) 

4. Installation and Establishment (9%) 

5. Pruning (14%) 

6. Diagnosis and Treatment (9%) 

7. Trees and Construction (9%) 

8. Tree Risk (11%) 

9. Safe Work Practices (15%) 

10. Urban Forestry (6%) 

From personal experience and chatting with multiple coworkers, 3.5 hours is plenty of time to take the exam. One tip is that some questions can provide context clues that can help answer a different question in the exam, so do not feel discouraged to skip a question and come back to it later. There should be at least 30 to 60 additional minutes to revisit unanswered questions or review unsure questions.  

MAINTAINING YOUR ISA CERTIFIED ARBORIST® CREDENTIAL 

Some of our fellow climbing ISA Certified Arborists® in a tree!

Once you’ve passed your exam, congratulations! You’re officially an ISA Certified Arborist®! Your certification is valid for 3 years. To maintain your certification, you can either retake the exam again OR you can earn 30 Continuing Education Credits (CEUs) before your certification expires. CEUs can be earned through opportunities such as safety trainings or meetings, podcasts and quizzes, e-learning modules, webinars, workshops, and/or conferences. The number of CEUs will vary depending on the length of opportunity and level of depth. For more information, check out isa-arbor.com.  

In 2022, ISA reported 35,944 ISA Certified Arborists® and 991 ISA Board Certified Master Arborists® worldwide. Russell Tree Experts is proud to have over 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® on staff, 3 of which are ISA Board Certified Master Arborists®. To request a free tree quote, give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

6 Harmful Pruning Methods for Trees

By Enrique Arayata

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 4th, 2025

Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches, buds, and roots from a tree. Pruning is a common and necessary form of tree maintenance that can be beneficial or detrimental to a tree’s health depending on the location and quantity of the cuts. Poor pruning practices will decrease the health and vigor of a tree and increase the likelihood of structural failure or even worse, tree death. More specifically, improper tree pruning can lead to unaesthetic appearances, stunted growth, insect and disease susceptibility, compromised structure, poor branching habits, decayed and damaged limbs, and property damage due to limb failure. On the flip side, proper pruning practices can increase a tree’s aesthetics, health, and longevity, allowing it to be a beautiful sight for sore eyes instead of a headache for the owner. 

The goal for this ARBOR ED™ article is to learn more about improper pruning practices, some of which are contextual and situational depending on the timing, quantity, or location of the pruning cut, and to have you identify if your tree has been improperly pruned! To learn more about the benefits and use cases of tree pruning, read here for my previous ARBOR ED™ article on the importance of tree pruning! 

An example of tree topping.

1. TREE PRUNING

One of the most harmful pruning mistakes is tree topping. Tree topping is the removal of entire top-ends of tree stems, sometimes including the central leader, regardless of the stem’s health. Often times, healthy stems with plenty of green leaves are removed during tree topping. The thought behind this is to increase light visibility for grass or plants below the tree, to control a tree’s size, and/or to shape a tree to the owner’s liking. However, tree topping can have serious long-term consequences. Tree topping looks aesthetically unpleasing due to many leaves and greenery being removed from the tree. When topping a mature tree, the topped stem could be large enough to where it is difficult for the tree to properly compartmentalize and close the wound, which is basically an open-door invitation for insect and disease issues. Compartmentalization in layman’s terms is how a tree heals, closes, and recovers from a wound. When large branches are removed, trees will respond by growing small, skinny shoots known as watersprouts that are poorly attached to the trunk. These shoots often grow on the interior of a tree in an upright behavior. They are often weakly attached to the tree and are prone to breakage if they mature large enough. This poses a structural, safety risk for nearby items like concrete, houses, cars, and more. With the removal of much of the tree's canopy, this will reduce its ability to photosynthesize and produce energy. The tree may experience severe stress, making the tree more prone to insect and disease issues. 

An example of lion tailing.

2. LION TAILING

Lion tailing is the removal of a majority of the interior or lower branches of a tree stem or an entire tree. This leaves foliage clustered at a branch’s end, similar to the appearance of a lion’s tail. Lion tailing often occurs due to improper pruning practices like tree thinning and general over pruning. This type of tree pruning can often result in weakened branch structure or load failure, causing the limb to break. Two additional consequences of lion tailing are the production of watersprouts and an increased risk of sunburned bark tissue. Lastly, lion tailed trees have less leaves for photosynthesis and will often result in general stress due to a nutrient deficiency.  

A subtle example of excessive pruning. Note the small amount of interior branches that is uncharacteristic of honeylocust trees.

3. EXCESSIVE PRUNING

Another common tree care mistake is excessive tree pruning, which occurs when too many branches are removed in one session, or when a tree is over-pruned over a small range of time. While it might seem like pruning a tree heavily will promote its health, in reality, it often does more harm than good. Pruning removes leaves, and leaves are the primary site for photosynthesis. Without enough leaves, a tree struggles to produce the energy it needs to thrive. This leaves it more susceptible to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses like sun scorch and drought. Over-pruned trees are often stunted in growth and will develop the same watersprouts mentioned earlier. The exact amount of pruning for a tree is often debated because there is no definitive answer. The general rule of thumb is to identify the purpose of pruning a tree and to prune as little as necessary to achieve the desired outcome. Common reasons to prune a tree are to reduce risk, improve or restore structure, provide clearance, manage crown size, or to remove dead or diseased limbs. If the reason for pruning can be accomplished with just a few pruning cuts, then there is no need to over prune. 

4. INCORRECT PRUNING CUTS AND LOCATIONS

There are many ways that a specific, individual pruning cut can be incorrect and harmful to a tree, so much so that a short book could be written. As a brief, condensed overview, a cut can be improper if it is at an unideal location on a stem or if it was performed using an improper tool. Using a dull or rusty tool can lead to improper cuts that the tree cannot compartmentalize properly. A proper, finished cut should have a smooth surface without jagged edges or torn bark. These defects could create a vulnerable location for insect or disease problems.  

Choosing the right pruning tool is important. Most folks would not use a chainsaw to prune a bonsai tree. Trust me, I’ve tried, and it didn’t work out well (for me or the bonsai tree). Jokes aside, there are often gray areas where limbs could be pruned with smaller tools such as loppers or pruning shears, but a handsaw or chainsaw would be more effective and leave a cleaner cut. 

Even if a clean pruning cut has been made, it could be at the wrong location and cause increased compartmentalization time, leaving the tree exposed to potential insect or disease problems for a longer period of time. A pruning cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar. The branch collar is the swollen area around the underside/base of a tree branch where it meets the trunk of a tree. The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of bark above a branch union that forms as a result of the trunk and stem connecting, thus pushing the bark into a ridge. Together, the branch bark ridge and branch collar have special tissues that assist in a tree’s compartmentalization response to a pruning wound and to defend that wound from infection. It is important not to damage either of these when making a pruning cut.

5. INSECT AND DISEASE PROBLEMS

Pruning is an excellent maintenance technique to minimize the risk of insect and disease problems for a tree. If you just have a couple of small limbs with decay or unwanted insect pests, they can simply be pruned off. When it comes to an entire tree suffering from a disease or infested with a pest, it is best to have it inspected by an ISA Certified Arborist® to determine the best course of action. Timing is important when it comes to preventing disease and insect pests. There are many tree species with known pest or disease issues that can be minimized through proper pruning at a certain time of year. Two important examples in central Ohio are the pruning of oak and elm trees between October 15th and March 31st to minimize the risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease. 

6. UNIDEAL TIMING

Timing, both frequency and time of year, are important when it comes to tree pruning. Pruning at an improper time of the year can result in stress and stunted growth. A good, general rule of thumb to maximize growth is to prune a tree just before buds begin to swell, typically around late winter/early spring. Oppositely, pruning a tree around late spring or early summer could cause a tree to grow a little slower, which could be beneficial in an urban or tightly spaced setting. Some trees in temperate settings are best pruned during the active growing season in the middle of spring and summer to maximize the speed of wound closure. Pruning during drought-like conditions such as an unusually hot and dry August should be minimized as a tree is less likely to compartmentalize the wound quickly, potentially leading to decay. An ISA Certified Arborist® working in their local area will be familiar with common, native trees and their preferred pruning window. 

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Proper tree pruning is a delicate balance between art and science. While pruning may be done to improve a tree’s aesthetics, it is important to prioritize its health over its looks as a dead tree is an unaesthetic tree. If possible, avoid any and all of the improper pruning mistakes mentioned in this article such as tree topping, lion tailing, excessive pruning, improper cuts, and incorrect timing to ensure that your trees remain healthy and beautiful! As always, if you’re interested in a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

How to Protect Trees Before, During, & After Heavy Construction!

By Cody Gray
January 23, 2025

What is soil compaction and how can this affect the trees growing on your property? In this article we are going to cover the “do’s” and “don’ts” during the construction process to avoid soil compaction on the property. We’ll also be peeking into soil science as well as ways to regain healthy soil composition.  

Soil compaction is caused when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space. Think of this like making a snowball - as you take a scoop of snow and press it together, it becomes hard and dense. The previously light and fluffy snow is now firm and sheds water. The same phenomenon is true with soil. As these particles are pressed together, air and water become scarce. With reduced pore space, water infiltration is much slower, and drainage becomes increasingly poor and insufficient. In addition to the soil’s inability to move and drain water, the exchange of gases is slowed down significantly. In poorly drained soils, the composition can turn hard and arid, causing a tree’s penetrating roots to struggle in seeking water.  

Compacted Soil

Porous Soil

Wooded lots offer extremely beautiful home sites. However, if approached improperly from start to finish, what could have been a serene place to kick your feet up at the end of a long day can slowly turn into a hazardous environment full of dead and declining trees. It’s no secret that heavy equipment is used to clear plots of land for both residential and commercial purposes. These pieces of equipment are often heavy and can cause substantial damage to the soil composition when extra care is not taken. However, there are ways to protect the trees you desire to keep if you are aware of some basic tree biology. In terms of spread, a tree’s roots mostly occupy the canopy drip line of a tree. The canopy drip line of a tree is the outermost circumference of the tree’s canopy in relation to the ground. A tree’s roots occupy this entire area and often extend two to four times the radius of the drip line. In terms of depth, most tree roots can be found in the first six to twenty-four inches of soil. This is important to know because this is where long-term root damage can occur if proper preventative measures are not taken. 

A video example of a land clearing project for a new construction home. Heavy equipment was used and soil was likely compacted.

When selecting the building site, it is important to choose an area as far away from the preserved trees as possible. However, at times this may not be possible due to the lot layout, construction needs, etc. There are ways to improve the likelihood of saving these trees inside of the construction zone. Setting up a tree protection zone can be accomplished by protecting the drip edge of the tree you plan to save. The idea is to minimize or prevent any travel of heavy equipment over this area to protect the tree’s valuable roots. One of the most effective ways to protect this precious area is by using T-posts, zip ties and a few rolls of orange barrier fence often referred to as a “snow fence”. The first step in this process is to walk out and mark the approximate drip edge of the tree. You can use orange marking paint on the ground if this helps. Next you will need to drive a T-post every four to five feet around the circumference of the drip line. Once you have traced the entire drip line of the tree, you will begin stringing your orange barrier fence and zip-tying it to your T-posts. This process is simple yet effective for keeping people as well as machines away from the root zone. Additionally, this will help limit the potential for damage to the trunk of the tree. If access is an issue and you are unable to successfully barricade the drip edge of the tree, another option is to use some sort of matting. This can be done with many different products. The simplest form of matting is plywood but whatever solution you use, this significantly reduces ground pressure, which reduces the effects of soil compaction.  

Tree Protection Zone!

Following the construction process, it is important to do a final walkthrough to determine if the grade has been changed. Any excess fill that may have been added inside of a tree’s canopy drip line should be minimized or avoided completely. A very small amount of fill used to fill in tiny divots or to lightly level the lawn is okay and unlikely to cause serious damage. A significant amount of excess fill or grade change can cause reduced oxygen and water infiltration for a tree's roots. A tell-tale sign is soil buildup around the root flare of the tree trunk. You can also take before-and-after photos and compare. If excess soil is present, it is important to remove it as soon as possible. The effects of soil compaction are not immediately noticed and often take months or years before it becomes apparent that something may be wrong. Unfortunately, by the time you notice that a tree is in decline, it is likely too late. Some key characteristics to look for include loss of leaves and premature leaf discoloration during the summer months as well as dead and decaying branches. It is not uncommon for one of our ISA Certified Arborists® to inspect a property containing a declining tree due to construction or renovation that occurred months or years in the past. Oftentimes this is discovered through a quick conversation with the property owner or when observing soil that is either compacted or covering a tree trunk’s root flare. 

There are ways to improve soil composition following compaction if it is caught quickly. One of the most effective ways is by using an air-spade. An air spade is a tool that uses compressed air to loosen the soil around the tree’s roots. An arborist will push the tool into the ground around the tree’s root system and force air into the compressed soil, causing the pore space to increase. This is a non-invasive way to expose the roots to much needed water, oxygen, and nutrients. Another simple yet effective way to help with previous soil compaction is to mulch a tree. Removing 2 to 4 inches below ground level and backfilling with porous mulch can minimize the impact of soil compaction. There are also many benefits to mulching beyond just increased pore space.  

Porous (Left) vs. Compacted (Right)

In conclusion, remember to pick a building site that requires as little tree removal as possible. If there is a tree that is in question, it is much easier to remove the tree prior to construction and it will often cost less to do so. Complete a walkthrough with your contractors, express your concerns for the trees you plan on saving, and be certain to create your tree protection zone(s). This will take a little time in the beginning of the project but can end up saving thousands of dollars over the years to come. If you follow these steps and still end up with some soil compaction, don’t fret as there are still options. Reach out to your local arborists and inquire about air spading, tree mulch ring installations, frequent watering, or other plant healthcare options that might be recommended after an inspection. I can assure you that if you take the time in the early stages of the land clearing and construction process, the survival rate of your trees will increase significantly. If you are interested in a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, call us at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Cody Gray I Senior Division Supervisor, Russell Tree Experts

Cody Gray is our Environmental Division Senior Division Supervisor and has been at RTE since 2016. He has worked around trees since 2013. He graduated from Hocking College with a major in forestry and is certified with aerial rescue, EHAT, first aid, CPR, and OSHA30. In his free time, Cody is an avid outdoorsman and enjoys spending time with his family. His favorite tree is the white oak because of their exceptional durability, beautiful grain patterns, and longevity.

It’s Easy as G-D-D (Growing Degree Days)

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
January 9, 2025

If you are a client of Russell Tree Experts and have us care for your trees, you’ve likely heard us use the term “growing degree day” or GDD. The concept of a growing degree day is basically how many units of heat have been accumulated within a 24-hour period. Any day with a mean temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperature) over the “threshold temperature” of 50 degrees, growing degree days are accumulated. A threshold temperature is a temperature at which a specific plant or insect can progress in its development or life cycle. Different organisms have different base temperatures; however, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered acceptable for all plants and insects.

Calculating growing degree days can be complex to varying degrees. The simplest method is to subtract the base temperature from the mean temperature for the day and then add it to the previous day's growing degree day total.

Example:

It is April 11th. The average temperature is 61 degrees. Yesterday, the running total of GDD was 214. Subtracting the base temperature of 50 from the mean temperature of 61 degrees, we would arrive at 11 degrees. We would add that to yesterday's running total (214+11), and today’s current GDD is 225.

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What information can we learn from knowing the growing degree day? Plant experts and entomologists have observed that the accumulation of heat causes development to proceed. For any given insect, its eggs will hatch, or an adult will emerge at precisely the same growing degree day every year. The date can vary from year to year since the temperature is not the same every day of the year. Below is a graphic of the growing degree day on the same date, April 11th, for the past fourteen years.

(https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/summary.asp):  

Since we know that plants and insects do the same thing on the same approximate GDD every year (not necessarily on the same date), we also know when to apply certain treatments for optimal effectiveness. Additionally, we can use plants as a “phenological indicator” to understand when certain insects will be active. Using our example of April 11th and GDD of 225, Serviceberry (GDD 219) and Common Chokecherry (GDD 221) should both be in full bloom. Various adult leafminers will also be emerging around this time (birch leafminer – GDD 215, elm leafminer – GDD 219, alder leafminer – GDD 224).

Some people have even taken it further and planted phenological gardens! Farmers have used this practice for centuries to know when to plant certain crops and vegetables and when to look for specific pests. Here are a few rules of thumb:

• Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms

• Plant peas when forsythia blooms

• Plant radishes and spinach when crocus is in bloom

• Plant carrots and beets when daffodils bloom

• Plant bush beans when apple trees bloom

• Plant annual flowers and squashes when lilacs are in full bloom

These were developed as a way of measuring growing degree days before the formal calculation of growing degree days existed, but they achieved similar results.

Entomologists work hard daily to figure out the growing degree day of certain active insects and pests to improve “best practices” observed in horticulture and arboriculture. One insect we are watching closely is the nitidulid beetle. These beetles have been known to carry a fungus that causes oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease of oak trees. As we learn more about these beetles, we can implement more effective management practices to ensure the safety of everyone’s oak trees! For now, we go off of the best information available to us. You can learn more how Russell Tree Experts handles oak wilt by reading here!

I am proud to be part of the arboriculture industry. The industry is very receptive to better and new information as knowledge is developed and discovered. The world is evolving and I’m happy that Russell Tree Experts prides itself on keeping up with the times and staying well-informed on essential tree issues. As we learn more, we will share with you all as well. As always, thank you for your time, and I hope you all do your best to be a tree advocate in your community. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ON GROWING DEGREE DAYS

The Ohio State University: https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/glossary.asp

Smithsonian Gardens: https://gardens.si.edu/learn/blog/gardening-guided-by-phenology/

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A

Call OUPS So You Don't... Oops!!

By Joe Gabrielse
December 19, 2024

Are you about to start digging in your yard for a project such as to plant a tree or to grind out a tree stump? Before you begin, it's vital to prioritize safety by taking the necessary precautions to protect yourself and underground utility lines. One key step you should never overlook is calling the Ohio Utilities Protection Service, commonly known as OUPS. 

An example of a gas line marked in yellow.

811 is the national hotline for "Call Before You Dig," allowing homeowners and professionals to request free marking of underground utility lines. By calling 811 prior to digging, you can prevent accidental damage to vital utility lines like gas, electric, water, sewage, and telecommunications. Examples of digging projects where you can benefit from calling OUPS are planting a tree, grinding a stump, digging a new flower bed, putting in a new shed, laying a new driveway, installing a post for a new mailbox, building a retaining wall, and more. If you are utilizing Russell Tree Experts to care for your trees and digging is required such as in the case of stump grinding, we will take care of this process for you and call OUPS ahead of time!

Upon dialing 811, you will be connected to a local center. A representative will gather details about your digging project, such as location and depth of excavation. The center will then inform relevant utility companies who will then dispatch technicians to mark their underground lines with flags, paint, or both. In some cases, you will also receive an email with a summary containing a birds-eye view of the property with color coded markers as to where any lines may be located.

Advantages of Contacting 811 Before Digging

The blue oval indicates the location of a gas line that we need to be extra precautious around.

There are numerous benefits to calling 811 before digging, such as the following:

1. Compliance with Regulations. Many states mandate calling 811 to prevent harm to underground infrastructure.

2. Peace of Mind. Taking necessary safety precautions can provide peace of mind throughout your digging project and minimize the chances of stress and headaches.

3. Financial Savings. Preventing damage to utility lines can save you from costly repair expenses.

4. Enhanced Safety. Marking utility lines helps prevent potentially hazardous incidents.

Depending on the particular tree, a stump could be ground anywhere from approximately 4 to 16 inches below ground level.

Proceeding with digging without calling 811 can lead to severe outcomes. Accidentally striking a buried utility line can disrupt your project and result in headaches, expensive repairs, injuries, or even fatalities. Avoiding these dangers is as straightforward as dialing 811 before you commence digging. It’s free! 

One detail to be cautious of is that privately installed lines or pipes might not be reported to OUPS, therefore leading to those lines being left unmarked. It would be up to you to mark or be made aware of to prevent damage to said unmarked lines. Examples of unmarked lines could be an electrical line to an exterior light post, irrigation lines, and invisible dog fences.

At Russell Tree Experts, we utilize OUPS quite literally every single day. Whenever a customer requests stump grinding services, our stump grinders call OUPS a few days ahead of time so that way our machines can focus on the stump and avoid damaging any lines. 

Russell Tree Experts offers stump grinding services. Before any stump is ground, we call OUPS to mark any nearby lines that could pose an issue.

For larger tree work projects such as on federal and state property or along highways and powerlines, we contact OUPS to request any and all lines to be marked. Whenever we are using heavier equipment such as CMIs, ASVs, or Bobcats, we are sometimes asked to provide specifications such as gross vehicle weight, track width, lengths of tracks on the ground, and distance between tracks to ensure that there is no risk of damage to underground lines even during movement of our machines. Some pipes and lines can be located 18 to 24 inches below ground level. With a machine that weighs 85,000 pounds, even just driving 2 feet above the line’s location could cause damage. If the pipe is unavoidable and a piece of equipment must cross its location, we build an “air bridge” using timber mats to cross the line safely and to eliminate the risk of damage. When a line is avoidable and no tree work or equipment needs to occur nearby, we still like to have the line marked and we will set a minimum approach distance such as 50 feet so that way our crew members know not to come anywhere close to the line’s location.

A balled-and-burlapped tree can require a lot of digging in order for it to be properly planted.

The examples above may not be relatable to you from day-to-day on your private property, but tree planting can! According to the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide, a saucer shaped planting hole two to three times the width of the root ball is recommended for optimal tree planting. The depth of said hole is going to be approximately the height of the root ball, which could be upwards of two to three feet tall for a large balled-and-burlapped tree. This area is definitely deep and wide enough to where the risk of damaging a line could be high. A simple and free 811 call to OUPS could provide you the peace of mind of planting your tree with no risk (not including privately unmarked lines)!

In conclusion, calling 811 before digging is a simple yet critical measure to ensure the safety of your excavation work. Making this call can help prevent accidents, legal complications, and unnecessary expenses. Remember that safety is paramount, so don't forget to contact 811 before picking up that shovel. Be safe and happy digging!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Joe Gabrielse I Administrative Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Joe joined Russell Tree Experts in 2022 with a background in dispatching of commercial vehicles and project management. He enjoys spending time with friends and family, attending different sporting events, traveling, car shows, sports collectibles shows and video games.

The Sugar Maple

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 12, 2024​

The sugar maple tree (Acer saccharum) is one of my favorite trees and a beloved symbol of North American forests, renowned for its beauty and many uses. It is native across southern Canada, the midwest, and the northeastern US states. Known for its vibrant autumn colors, sweet sap, and high-quality timber, the sugar maple plays an essential role in the natural landscape, urban forest, economy, and cultural heritage of the northeastern United States.

The sugar maple tree grows best in hardiness zones 3 through 8. It has a slow-to-medium growth speed and will grow to a mature height of 60 to 75 feet with a mature width of 40 to 50 feet. Sugar maple trees grow well in well-drained soil and in partial sun, but will perform best in full sun conditions.

The sugar maple is one of the most visually captivating trees, especially during the fall when its leaves turn to brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Each autumn, forests, yards, and parks where sugar maples grow become vibrant canvases of color. Beyond its autumn display, the sugar maple brings beauty throughout the year. In spring, delicate clusters of yellow-green flowers bloom, signaling the arrival of warmer weather. By summer, the tree’s broad canopy offers cool, welcoming shade, making it a favorite in parks along streets and in backyards. Even in winter, when its branches are bare, the sugar maple’s ovular architecture is a beautiful sight.

The sugar maples in my backyard are a constant source of joy to my family and me; my kids often collect the autumn leaves and we all appreciate the cool shade it provides during hot summer afternoons where we play with our dog.

The sugar maple’s value extends far beyond its visual appeal. It is also a tree of exceptional utility, benefiting industries and ecosystems. The sugar maple is the lifeblood of the maple syrup industry, which is both economically and culturally significant. In early spring, when temperatures fluctuate between freezing at night and above freezing during the day, sap begins to flow within the tree. This sap is collected through taps and boiled down to produce pure maple syrup. It takes about 40 gallons of sap to produce just one gallon of syrup, making the process both labor-intensive and rewarding. Sharing the resulting syrup with my family is a tradition whether drizzled on pancakes or used to sweeten a good recipe. I like to mix two tablespoons of maple syrup with a teaspoon of dijon mustard, ¼ teaspoon of dried thyme, and 1 clove of garlic, minced, for an excellent glaze on chicken or ham.

Sugar maple is also valuable for its timber. Known as "hard maple," its wood is highly durable with a dense grain that makes it resistant to wear. This strength makes sugar maple wood a popular choice for furniture, cabinetry, and flooring. It is especially favored for high-traffic areas such as gymnasiums and basketball courts where durability is crucial.

In addition to its strength, sugar maple wood is renowned for its beauty. Patterns like "curly" and "birdseye" maple — unique grain formations that resemble ripples or tiny eyes — are highly sought after by woodworkers. Musical instruments including violins, guitars, and pianos, are often crafted from maple wood due to its aesthetic appeal and due to the wood’s density enhancing sound quality.

Birdseye Maple Wood Pattern

Curly Maple Wood Pattern

The sugar maple also contributes to the health of ecosystems in numerous ways. Its dense canopy provides shelter for birds, mammals, and insects, while its seeds and buds serve as food for creatures such as squirrels and deer. In autumn, when the tree drops its leaves, the organic matter enriches the soil, promoting healthy plant growth.

Note the fall foliage containing greens, reds, oranges, and yellows!

The tree also plays a critical role in water regulation as its roots absorb rainfall and reduce runoff, helping to prevent flooding. Forests dominated by sugar maple trees stabilize soil and prevent erosion, especially on slopes and riverbanks. The tree’s ability to thrive in well-drained, fertile soils makes it a reliable indicator of a healthy forest.

While sugar maple is a great tree for aesthetics and practicality, it is now facing significant threats due to changing weather patterns and climate shifts. The species thrives in cool climates with predictable seasons and the recent shift in temperatures, along with changes in precipitation, is making it harder for sugar maple trees to survive and reproduce in many areas. Sugar maple trees require cold winters to produce sap. The ideal conditions for sap flow — freezing nights followed by warmer days — are becoming less consistent as winters grow shorter and warmer. Without these precise temperature swings, sap production is also decreasing, directly impacting the maple syrup industry. 

Rising temperatures are also forcing the sugar maple’s growing range to shift northward. Areas that were once ideal habitats for the tree are becoming too warm or dry, while colder regions farther north are now better suited to support new growth. This gradual shift threatens the cultural and economic identity of communities that have long relied on sugar maple forests. Scientists predict that if current trends continue, sugar maple trees may disappear from parts of their southern range, such as Ohio, Pennsylvania and New Jersey, within the next century.

Additionally, the increase in frequency and intensity of droughts have been particularly damaging to sugar maple. While the tree prefers moist, well-drained soils, extended periods of drought weaken its root system and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Invasive pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and certain fungi have expanded their range into sugar maple forests. These pests can cause severe damage (and often tree death), weakening the trees and making them more vulnerable to environmental stresses. Fortunately, the Asian longhorned beetle has not been found in central Ohio, highlighting the importance of maintaining strict quarantine zones and monitoring programs. Preventing its spread is crucial to protecting the region’s sugar maples (as well as several additional native genera) and the ecosystems and industries they support.

Russell Tree Experts offers a range of tree services to help preserve your sugar maple trees, including health assessments to identify stress factors, pest and disease management to help mitigate threats, and soil care programs to improve root resilience. With expert pruning, deep-root fertilization, and a detailed plan, we can attempt to mitigate these challenges. For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Guide to Choosing the Right Christmas Tree for You!

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 5, 2024​

Thanksgiving has come and gone and with that comes the mad dash to prepare for Christmas. Gift shopping, meal prepping, decorating, and Christmas tree buying are just a few of the many tasks leading up to the holiday season. This article is to help ease your stress when picking out a tree so that you can stay jolly throughout December. We all want a tree that would make Clark Griswald proud. Picking out the wrong Christmas tree and not properly caring for it can result in a “Charlie Brown” tree.  

The six most common Christmas trees sold in Ohio are Scotch pine, eastern white pine, Colorado blue spruce, Douglas fir, Canaan fir, and Fraser fir! Each tree has their own unique characteristics that I will dive into to help you make the right decision and keep it looking as healthy as possible. Some factors to consider and keep in mind when reading these descriptions include size, color, scent, branch strength, and needle retention.

pick the right tree for you

keep your tree healthy

If you’re like me, you may have already purchased your tree or will be soon, and you’ll want to keep it as healthy as possible. Not only will this improve the overall aesthetics of the tree for multiple weeks, but it will also help reduce the post-Christmas cleanup mess by minimizing the amount of needles falling off.  Here are some tips and tricks I recommend:

1. If possible, cutting your tree fresh will be best to ensure your tree stays alive for the maximum amount of time. If you run a hand down the branch, little to no needles should release on a healthy tree.

2. If your tree has been cut for more than 6 to 8 hours, make a new cut approximately 1 inch from the tree’s base to improve water uptake. Most retailers should cut a small “cookie” from the base for you before leaving. These cookies make great ornaments once dried or they can be boiled in water for a festive scent (consider adding cinnamon sticks and orange peels for an even better aroma).

3. Avoid placing your tree directly next to heat sources or direct sunlight to help keep your tree from drying out too fast and to minimize the risk of fire.

4. Last but not least, WATER! Cut trees should be placed in a stand that can hold water. Ensure the water is above the cut base and refill as necessary with tap water. Additives to the water are not recommended. 

keep your tree Safe

Christmas trees are responsible for approximately 200 house fires every year. It’s a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand, know where its located, ensure that it is properly charged, and to educate everyone in the home on how to use it in the event of a fire. If you are unable to power any lights or decorations directly into a wall outlet, use properly functioning extension cords and power sources. Store bought tree stands are designed to hold your tree securely upright. The wider the base, the more stable it will be. I highly recommend using one instead of having the tree free-standing or creating your own DIY stand. For those with little ones like myself, place delicate and small ornaments out of reach from smaller children and make sure they know not to try and eat the needles.

A real Christmas tree can last anywhere from 3 to 6 weeks and cannot be kept for next year. There are many creative ways to reuse your tree after the holidays are over, but most people will either chop it in pieces for firewood or dispose of it to be composted or recycled. Pine needles can make for a great natural mulch alternative if you spread them out 2 to 4 inches deep around the trunk of a tree. If doing this, please ensure that the trunk’s root flare is exposed and not buried. For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) on Thursday, January 2nd and Friday, January 3rd from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. You can knock on our front door and one of our local, friendly office staff members will help you dispose of your old Christmas tree! We’ll ensure that it gets reused to become mulch or compost!

Photos

Canaan Fir

Eastern White Pine

Scotch Pine

Douglas Fir

Colorado Blue Spruce

Fraser Fir

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

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ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Cabling for Safer and Longer Living Trees

By Harry Carter
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 26, 2024​

As an ISA Certified Arborist® and avid tree climber, I find myself in many different trees and looking down over elegant landscapes, playgrounds and houses. I work in many trees requested to be removed by their owners due to concerns regarding potential tree failure and property damage. Although some of these trees may have defects such as poor branching habits, cracks, codominant stems, and more, there are tree preservation solutions that can work to keep them upright, healthy, and stable! Proper tree care including tree cabling can go a long way toward maintaining your big, green giant!

Trees are such a beneficial part of your property whether it’s the shade the canopies can provide to your home or the aesthetics of the wind blowing through their leaves. Unfortunately like everything else, these beautiful organisms can have their problems, especially as they mature and grow larger. These giants need some help to stick around just like me and you. Defects left unattended such as included bark or wounds can create weakened unions in your tree. Luckily, there are solutions to help keep your canopy stable! Cabling the tree creates strength from above to protect the tree and provide it with a long-term health plan to keep it together. Paired with a good pruning regimen and tree wellness prescription, we can help to keep the tree happy and healthy. Russell Tree Experts offers two types of cable systems that each have their own supportive benefits! 

Tree Candidates for Cabling

You might ask yourself “Why would my tree require cables?” Though trees are strong and beautiful, sometimes they are imperfect and grow in funky, different ways to reach sunlight more or to grow away from a structure, often resulting in poor branching habits or defects such as cracked stems, codominant stems, or included bark. Codominant stems are two similarly sized stems growing away from each other, causing a v-shaped crotch that is prone to splitting. Included bark is bark trapped and growing between two branches or unions. This bark acts as a wedge and makes the crotch more prone to splitting.

Other trees that would benefit from cabling are trees damaged from a storm, impacted by an insect or disease, or that have been pruned improperly away from a utility line. These scenarios often leave behind defects and/or wounds, leaving the tree in a weakened, vulnerable state. Wounds take time to compartmentalize (compartmentalization is how trees heal) and sometimes the tree doesn’t have the resources to close the wound quick enough before decay starts to creep into the heartwood of the tree. Cabling can indirectly assist trees in compartmentalization by supporting particular limbs and giving the tree a better chance of compartmentalizing over the affected area before failure. Limb failure can be the end of it for a tree and potentially damage targets below such as turf, concrete, cars, or structures. Supporting these works of art nature created is an essential part of tree preservation and in protecting your property.

What is Tree Cabling?

Tree cabling is the installation of hardware in a tree to provide supplemental support to weak sections at risk of failure. This will limit movement of branches and help support loads. This is especially beneficial during adverse weather conditions such as heavy rainstorms, harsh wind events, and blizzards. There are two general cabling options: Static and dynamic. Both options have their advantages and proper use cases.

Static Cable

Static cable

A static cable is an extra high strength, galvanized steel cable. Russell Tree Experts commonly uses a 5/16 inch cable with a minimum breaking strength of 11,200 pounds, but other sizes exist. This provides low to minimal stretch or movement. A static cable is an ideal choice for a tree containing moderate to severe damage such as a tear, split or crack. Using an analogy of a broken bone, this is similar to using a splint to prevent the limb from moving in a harmful way. With a static cable, the arborist drills a hole through the stem, terminates the cable using a wedge grip device, and traverses the canopy to the other side to drill a second hole and terminate the system using a come along to tension the cable to make the support more rigid. Although this method of cabling is intrusive, it is much stronger than dynamic cable and will allow less movement. Sometimes this is necessary in order for a damaged tree to stay together.

Dynamic Cable

Dynamic cable

The second option is a dynamic cable. As the name suggests, a dynamic cable allows the tree to sway with the wind and work together to stay upright. A dynamic cable can be seen as a preventative option to help keep the tree together before a split occurs. This is beneficial for trees with poor branching habits or codominant stems. One of the benefits to a dynamic cabling system is allowing reaction wood to strengthen over time, thus making the tree healthier overall. Reaction wood is wood that has formed due to stresses like leaning or bending in order to offer additional strength and support. It is less intrusive to the tree and does not require any drilling. Dynamic cabling is also beneficial for a union with minor damage that is at risk of separating from the rest of the tree. This is an aid to help the tree compartmentalize and work toward creating good structure. Continuing on with the broken bone analogy, this would be similar to using a sling that allows for a little more movement than a splint. 

This cable system is a hollow braid rope that is much softer and does not require the arborist to drill into the tree. The dynamic cable is similar to a static cable in that it must be terminated, but the arborist makes a loop and splices the rope together to make a loop on the limb. Afterwards, the arborist traverses the canopy to make another loop and hand tightens the line to achieve the proper support the tree needs.

Improper Cabling

If a cable is installed correctly, it shouldn’t cause any damage or girdle the tree. A static cable arguably harms the tree during the drilling process, but it should only be performed if the end result is a net positive towards a tree’s health through adding additional support. In the case of a dynamic cable, girdling can occur when a cable loop is wrapped extremely tight around a stem, choking it out and restricting resources to the upper portion of the canopy above the cable. This can happen when a cable has not been inspected/adjusted for multiple years and the tree continues to grow. As a result, the bark and even the cambium layer can be damaged. 

An example of a girdled dynamic cable. ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® Jacob Nau does not approve.

Maintenance

After tree work occurs on a tree, the tree will react and adapt to the treatment slowly over time. Trees continue to grow and sometimes cables need to be adjusted to prevent girdling or to ensure correct placement in the upper 2/3 of the canopy from the union in question to work effectively. The International Society of Arboriculture recommends having cables inspected every 1 to 3 years. All cables should be inspected by a qualified arborist to check the tension and structure of the cable. Wildlife, weather, and UV degradation all play roles in the breakdown of a cable and should be considered by an arborist during an inspection. 

If you suspect that your tree may benefit from cabling, the next step would be to have an ISA Certified Arborist® inspect your tree(s) and provide a second opinion. There is a chance that cabling may be recommended alongside other services such as pruning or bracing. The arborist should have a strong recommendation as to which cable would best support your tree. 

Unfortunately, not all trees can be saved by cabling and in some cases, may require removal for safety purposes. With the proper tree candidate, tree cabling can be a good investment for both your tree and property. The science and art of tree preservation is very rewarding to the arborist as well as the manager of the tree. For a free tree work quote including cabling by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!   

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Harry Carter I General Crew Leader, Russell Tree Experts

Harry has been with RTE since 2015! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and TCIA Certified Treecare Safety Professional (CTSP)! Harry has his associate’s degree in forestry management from Hocking College. His favorite tree is the Ginkgo biloba. When he’s not up climbing in a tree, you can find Harry playing in the woods with his family, caring for his bonsai trees, ice climbing, or rock climbing!

The Persian Parrotia

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 19, 2024​

A Persian parrotia tree (Parrotia persica)

For a variety of reasons, there are certain trees that never seem to get the attention and use they deserve in our Ohio landscapes. The Persian parrotia is one of those trees. The landscape industry tends to rely heavily on a narrow variety of tree species and the Persian parrotia is often overlooked when considering planting options for the landscape. Let’s shed some light on this beautiful, adaptable, and underutilized option.

The Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica), also sometimes known as the Persian ironwood, is a deciduous tree native to a small range of temperate forests in the Middle East. It can grow up to around 30 feet in height with a mature width of 15 to 30 feet. The crown’s shape is generally round or ovular and you may encounter trees grown with either single or multiple stems. The mature size of this tree alone makes it a noteworthy species as this medium size at maturity is often hard to come by and is typically satisfied with trees like river birch or linden. The former often has major health issues with central Ohio’s urban soils. Parrotias tend to be tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions once established, making them a good choice for residential, commercial, and municipal landscapes. Consideration should still be given to location on any property with regard to overhead wires as a 30 foot tree may still be tall enough to interfere with these utilities.

Fall color of Persian parrotia. Note the ~4 different colors of its leaves!

In addition to a desirable size as an accent or shade tree in the landscape, parrotias feature attractive dark green foliage with a gentle serration along the leaf margin. Avid gardeners and tree enthusiasts may find that parrotia foliage resembles that of witch hazel and fothergilla. This is because all three of these species belong to the witch-hazel family (Hamamelidaceae). Fall color is among the best you can find, with blends of yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds that almost seem to glow at the peak of fall foliage season. After the leaves drop, the tree continues to provide winter interest with a beautifully smooth and mottled bark, not unlike the mature bark of crape myrtle or lacebark pine. Flowering in central Ohio occurs in late winter and is not particularly showy. Parrotias are cold hardy to zone 4 (5a), making it a great match for central Ohio winter temperatures.

When planting a parrotia, the selected site should receive full sun to partial shade. Even though the species is tolerant of a variety of soil conditions, including soil pH and somewhat poor soil structure, the site should be well drained and not prone to standing water. With proper location to accommodate its future mature size, correct planting methods, and aftercare, parrotias can be healthy and beautiful additions to an Ohio landscape for several or more decades. Best of all, they are readily found at Ohio plant nurseries and garden centers, making them a tree species that you shouldn’t have to go too far to find! Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Pawpaw Cream Pie and I

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
November 7, 2024​

When it comes to trees, I’ve got lots of favorites. I have a favorite deciduous tree - the Persian parrotia. My favorite evergreen tree is the lacebark pine. My favorite tree for fall color is the black tupelo. I even have a favorite smelling tree - the concolor fir (I love that the crushed needles smell like oranges). Today, I’m writing about my favorite native, edible fruit tree, the pawpaw! Keep reading if you like pie.

A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) in the fall!

If you’re not hip to pawpaws already, the next paragraph is required reading. If you have pawpaw trees in your landscape currently, have ever attended the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, have a pawpaw cookbook, own an article of clothing with a pawpaw printed on it, or have a pawpaw bumper sticker on your car, you can jump ahead to the pie.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), sometimes called custard apple, is a hardy and adaptable small tree, generally growing 15 - 25’ in height in the landscape, with a dense pyramidal shaped canopy (when grown in full sun). The leaves hang downward at an angle and give the tree a somewhat tropical appearance. The fall color of the leaves is a nice golden yellow. Maroon to purple flowers come out mid-spring and are pollinated by flies. Interesting side note: Some of the old timers I know hang meat in their pawpaw trees at the time of flowering to increase pollination as the meat attracts more flies. Pawpaw flowers give way to small fruits, 3 - 6” in length that somewhat resemble a banana and often form in clumps of 3 to 5. Depending on the tree, the fruit can ripen anywhere between late August and early October. Additional side notes: The pawpaw fruit is the largest fruit native to North America and the pawpaw tree is the host plant for the caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly. Good stuff!

Pawpaw fruit! Quarter for scale.

Pawpaw fruit is one of my favorite things to look forward to every year (up there with spring flowers and fall color). The fruit tastes similar to a banana, mango, pear but with more of a custard-like consistency. FYI, the fruit can often contain many large, lima bean-sized seeds, especially with wild picked fruit. The fruit also has a short shelf life, often lasting only a few days after ripening, which is why you don’t see pawpaws at Costco.

Several cultivated varieties of pawpaw exist now that have been selected for longer lasting and  larger fruit with less seeds. I personally recommend ‘Prolific,’ ‘Wells,’ and ‘Sweet Alice.’ These cultivated varieties can be difficult to source, but not impossible. Check in with the folks at Dannaher Landscaping in Galena who generally have several different varieties of pawpaw trees on hand. These are good friends of mine.

Collecting wild fruit is also cool and another reason to go out into the woods. In central Ohio, I typically find pawpaw trees growing naturally near the banks of Walnut Creek, Alum Creek, the Scioto River, the Olentangy River, and throughout wooded flood plains where it often develops a more open and leggy appearance. Near my office in Westerville, along the Alum Creek bike path, I have observed several pawpaw trees in excess of 30’ in height with decent fruit production. We’re getting closer to the part about pie.

Dad removing seeds from the pulp of a pawpaw with precision.

I first discovered pawpaw trees by accident while my brother and I were canoeing a multi-day trip down the Scioto River late summer 2006. We kept noticing the fruit reaching out over the river from Columbus to Portsmouth and we decided to bring some back home to our father. We really didn’t know what we had, but Dad figured out they were pawpaws and decided to save the seeds, which started some of our original trees. My brother and I have followed different paths growing up, but we both have become professional ISA Certified Arborists® and I think somehow it started with the power of the pawpaw. Almost pie time.

Since 2006, I have eaten pawpaw every which way. At the risk of sounding like Forrest Gump, I’ve had pawpaw ice cream, pawpaw candy, pawpaw beer, pawpaw bread, pawpaw salsa, deep fried pawpaw on a stick and everything pawpaw in between. Dad even invented the pawtini (a martini with a toothpick holding a slice of frozen pawpaw). Until recently, my preference for pawpaw provisions was just eating the pulp straight out of the skin with a spoon. If I’m feeling fancy, I might even chill the fruit first, cut it in half, and cover it with homemade whipping cream for an excellent dessert.

A couple of years ago a colleague sent me a recipe for pawpaw cream pie and it blew my mind! (Yes, it is now pie time.) I’ve been experimenting with different levels and ingredients ever since and today I present to you my final draft!  

T.J.’s Pawpaw Cream Pie Recipe

• ½ cup of sugar

• ⅓ cup of flour 

• 3 egg yolks, beaten (save the whites for the meringue topping)

• 3 egg whites

• 1 cup of milk

• 1 cup of heavy cream

• 1 cup of pureed pawpaw pulp

• 3 tbsp. of sugar

• 1 pinch of salt

• 1 baked 9-inch pastry shell

• Optional: ⅓ - ½ cup of chopped walnuts

Start by combining the sugar and flour. Add the beaten egg yolks, milk and cream. Mix well and add the pawpaw pulp and walnuts. The walnuts are not essential to the recipe but add some additional flavor and texture. Cook and stir constantly over a low heat until the mixture thickens. Let cool and then pour mixture into a baked pastry shell and cover with meringue. Make a meringue by beating the 3 left over egg whites stiff with 3 tbsp. of sugar and a pinch of salt. Bake at 350 degrees F for 12 - 15 minutes until meringue is browned.

I also make a true cream pie version of this pie following the same recipe except ditching the 3 egg whites and baking the custard and then adding homemade whipping cream to the top after the filling has cooled.   A simple and delicious recipe for whipping cream is to mix a half pint container of heavy whipping cream with ¼ cup of sugar and 1 teaspoon of vanilla.

Both of these versions are outstanding. If you like banana cream pie, you are going to love this recipe. I’m partial to the true cream pie version but full disclosure, most of my taste testing buddies prefer the meringue.

This recipe is a great way to use up several pawpaws at once as I often end up with fruit faster than I can eat it. Pawpaw is an underutilized tree in the landscape and I’m hoping that delicious pie will encourage you to plant one; although fruit production is better with two. Pawpaw is an easy tree to grow (I haven’t killed one yet) and it has no significant insect or disease problems. This tree will grow happily in a wide range of environments and tolerate some of the most challenging sites and conditions. I hope you can find a way to incorporate this great native tree into your landscape and I encourage you to share any pawpaw recipes, experiences or questions you might have with us at the bottom of this article. Look forward to hearing from you!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Firewood Cutting and Safety Tips!

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist®
October 31, 2024

Fall is the time for football, leaf-peeping, pumpkin spice everything, and if you're like me, SO! MUCH! FIREWOOD! to process!!! In my twenty years of heating my home almost exclusively with firewood, I have learned a lot of tricks that inevitably came with learning from my mistakes. The following is a list of safety reminders and veteran advice for processing and burning wood in your own home. 

GETTING STARTED

When getting started, have a professional inspect and clean your chimney, stove, and/or fireplace annually. For heavier users like me, a second cleaning may be needed mid-winter. NEVER burn until recommended repairs are completed.

Keep fire extinguishers charged and easily accessible. Know how to operate one! Use appropriately aged hardwood species. For example, conifers should never be burned indoors. Never burn poison ivy or wood with vines you can't identify, even outdoors. Wood must be cut or split and sit long enough to allow moisture content to drop. This will typically take a minimum of 6 months. Wood with conks or mushrooms have sat too long.

Add an appropriately sized venting chimney cap to keep animals out (ask me how I know) and to protect against water damage. Water-loving tree species (ex: willow, cottonwood, and sycamore) are not dangerous to burn, but do not produce enough heat to warrant the effort.

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Example of a Fireplace Inspection Form

CUTTING LOGS

Before cutting any logs, measure your stove’s opening to determine the size of your chainsaw cuts. Cuts that are too short wastes effort and time. You also don’t want to deal with the frustration of having an oversized piece of firewood that won’t fit through the door no matter how hard you try to force it or no matter how many times you rotate it. Ask me how I know… If you care about your back and chainsaw chain, you can cut your firewood on stacked logs or palettes for better work positioning. I strongly advise using a modern chainsaw with all safety features in place. Below is a video we’ve made on chainsaw maintenance and safety!

When using a chainsaw, I recommend staying safe and wearing personal protective equipment (PPE) such as ankle-high boots, chainsaw pants or chaps, hearing protection, and eye protection. If you want to complete the arborist look, you can also wear a helmet and hi-vis t-shirt too!  Cut out and discard any imperfections in the wood such as knots, bends, or flaws. These will be hard to split and may not be worth your time and energy.

SPLITTING LOGS (BY HAND) 

Splitting logs can be physically strenuous labor complete with bends, lifts, and cardiovascular stress. Be honest about your fitness and pace yourself! On the flip side, pre-cut and pre-split wood can be purchased relatively easily. It's far cheaper than a heart attack! When splitting logs, always wear ear and eye protection. Split logs on a large, flat stump or trunk section in an open space. Use a splitting maul, not an axe, and various metal splitting wedges. Again, make life easy and don't worry about waste - if a log is difficult to split, set it aside, and knock out easier pieces.

One important detail to consider about firewood once you have your split logs is to not move it! Firewood can contain insects and disease that could spread and harm another tree population. One harmful example is how emerald ash borer was first detected in the US around 2002 and wiped out, with no exaggeration, millions of ash trees across North America. The general accepted theory as to how emerald ash borer ended up in the US was through wood in a shipping crate that arrived from China. All of this to say, the exact distance varies based on county, state, and country, but the general recommendation is to burn wood within 10 miles of where it was purchased or from where the wood was split. For more information, DontMoveFirewood.org is a good resource! (not sponsored, just want to spread the message!)

STACKING

Stacking can surprisingly be another physically strenuous task, especially if you rush or try to stack too many logs at a time. Please pace yourself accordingly! When choosing a location, select a space elevated from the bare ground that can also be protected from rain and other weather. Leave a gap large enough to walk through between your woodpile and structures to make logs more accessible. More importantly, this will provide a buffer zone for insects, rodents, and wood decaying organisms between the stack and your house, shed, etc.

When stacking, place the flat side down. Round sides can roll, making the entire stack unstable. Build up corners and outside edges first - gaps in the middle can be filled as needed with less precision. Orient wedge-shaped logs inwards. Shifts or slides will fall harmlessly to the center instead of the whole stack toppling over.

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BURNING

Before burning, have an evacuation plan ready that includes calling 9-1-1 in the event of an emergency. When it comes time to burn your firewood,  build up heat little by little. You can first ignite paper and work your way up to cardboard, then kindling, and eventually small logs. Cardboard doesn't burn hot enough to ignite full-sized logs. Burn as hot as possible to avoid buildup in the chimney. Remove ashes to a metal container daily. Wood ashes can increase a soil’s pH, so I would not recommend adding them to a mulch or compost bed unless you know that the pH level is below its optimal range for the trees or plants. Regularly inspect the interior and exterior of the room containing the chimney/stove.

Whether you're a veteran or a newbie, cutting and burning firewood is a physically demanding process with life and property threatening consequences. While the process should be respected with the proper safety procedures, it does not need to be intimidating. For those curious, Russell Tree Experts does not produce or sell firewood, but we do offer local, log delivery for you to process yourself! Safe and happy splitting my friends, those blisters will callus soon enough!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Sincerely,

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA certified arborist. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Mulch Volcanoes & The Hidden Dangers

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
October 23, 2024

The kwanzan cherry tree in question.

Recently, I was talking to one of my neighbors about typical home and outdoor activities, which sparked the conversation about the kwanzan cherry tree in my front yard. He let me know that it was mulched incorrectly, which caught me off-guard seeing as I took mulching advice from my coworkers Lindsey, an ISA Certified Arborist®, and TJ, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. I kept an open mind and asked him what was wrong and he informed me that it’s best to form a volcano-like shape up towards the trunk of the tree so that way the tree will absorb more water and to increase curb appeal. For him, since it looks more intentional and less natural, it shows that someone is caring for the tree. I communicated to him that multiple coworkers as well as the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide have conflicting information. He said he’s been doing it this way for decades and everything has been fine, completely ignoring the fact that his 50-60 foot tall sugar maple tree was removed due to heavy decay at the base of the tree. We agreed to disagree and went on with our days. Now, I’m not saying mulch volcanoes will cause your tree to decay and be removed, but I am saying that it is detrimental to a tree’s health and that this method of mulching needs to be addressed, stopped, and changed.

A mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed trunk flare and the mulch exceeding the height of the surrounding grade.

So what is a mulch volcano? A mulch volcano, also sometimes known as a mulch mound, mulch pyramid, or a mulch shield, is a circular volcano-shaped pile of mulch above ground level formed up to the trunk of a tree. Mulch volcanoes are created with good intention as tree mulching adds nutrients to the soil, aids in water retention, helps the tree outcompete other plants for resources, protects the tree from trunk damage by lawn mowers and string trimmers, minimizes soil compaction, and increases curb appeal. However, all of the aforementioned benefits apply only to properly mulched trees and mulch volcanoes are an improper form of mulching that eliminates most of these benefits. Most of the time, the person applying mulch to the tree does not even know about this incorrect practice. So if you have ever created a mulch volcano, know that I am not upset or mad. My goal is to educate and discuss the harms of mulch volcanoes and the proper ways to mulch a tree.

An example of stem girdling roots.

Limited Oxygen and Stem Girdling Roots

Mulch volcanoes bury the roots of a tree and simulate it being planted too deeply. This limits the availability of oxygen and water which can cause stem girdling roots, roots that wrap around the trunk of the tree in search of oxygen and nutrients and inevitably “choke” the tree. Stem girdling roots can lead to dieback, stunted growth, and delayed or shrunken leaves popping out in the spring. This can be treated via root collar excavation.

Limited Water

For a mulch volcano with compacted mulch, less water is actually retained and runs off to the bottom perimeter of the mulch. This results in less water availability for the tree as it may run off elsewhere on the property or be absorbed by grass and other plants instead of by the tree.

Excess Water and Bacteria

For better or for worse, mulch is great at retaining water. In the case of mulch volcanoes with porous mulch, this is bad because water can sit and dampen the trunk. Sitting water is bad for a tree because it can carry bacteria that can lead to disease.

Soil pH

Overmulching in this fashion may also limit nitrogen availability and detrimentally alter the soil’s pH. A change in pH outside the ideal range for the tree can lead to nutrient deficiency, chlorosis, stunted growth, defoliation, dieback, or even worse, the death of a tree.

Another mulch volcano. Note the tip dieback on the right side that could be a result of the mulch volcano. An in-depth inspection would be needed for confirmation.

Rodents

When mulch is piled high, it may be enticing to rodents as a form of shelter and concealment. They have also been observed to feed on the lower stems and bark of trees, leaving open wounds that could invite decay, disease, and pests. 

Aesthetics

Mulch volcanoes can make a trained eye who knows proper mulching practices cringe similar to nails on a chalkboard. They convey that the tree manager or mulch installer may be unaware of the best care for the tree. Depending on who you ask, mulch volcanoes are subjectively an eyesore and look goofy or out of place.

A tree mulch ring 12 feet in diameter.

Proper Tree Mulching

So how do you properly mulch a tree? Apply a level 2 to 4 inch deep layer of mulch at least 6 feet in diameter or up to the canopy drip line of a medium-to-larged sized tree. The exact size will depend on your preference or landscape limitations. Keep the root flare exposed and not in direct contact with any mulch. If water runoff is a concern, a small 1 inch tall, wall-like berm can be formed by hand around the perimeter of the mulch to encourage water to remain inside of the mulch. Linked below is my previously written Arbor Ed article on how to properly mulch a tree. It contains a video and even additional tips on how to create a crisp edge for enhanced visual appeal! I strongly encourage you to check it out. You can even follow along with the video when mulching your own tree! For those in central Ohio looking for other tree care needs, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and service quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Why Do We Need Bats?

By Michelle Burden & Nicole Hoffman
October 17, 2024​

Do you ever wonder why some creatures were placed on the Earth such as snakes, spiders and the like? One such creature that comes to mind is the bat. While they are not appealing to most of us, bats serve a purpose on this planet and deserve respect as they play a vital role in our ecosystem.

Did you know there are over 1200 kinds of bats across the globe? About 13 to 15 species of them reside right here in the Buckeye state. Unfortunately, four of these bat species, also known as flittermice for their fluttering wings, are on Ohio’s endangered species list. Let’s learn a bit more about these endangered bat types in Ohio, how they are helpful to us, and what we can do to save these nocturnal creatures so precious to our planet.

• Tricolored Bat - Known for their mixed dark and light coloring. These endangered bats prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. You may find them in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters (that’s a good thing).

• Northern Long-Eared Bat - Known by their long-pointed ears. Similar to the tricolored bat, they also prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. Similarly, they are also found in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters!

• Indiana Bat - Was first found in southern Indiana’s Wyandotte Cave in the late 1920s and is distinguished by the keel (a flap of skin) on the calcar (the spur off the ankle). This bat enjoys taking up residence in pastures, corn fields, and wooded areas in the buckeye state as well as Indiana.

• Little Brown Bat - Weighs in at less than an ounce, has mouse-like ears, and long hairs on its feet. This tiny flying mammal can also be found in tree hollows and wood piles.  

The flittermouse, AKA the bat, is the major pollinator for over 530 types of flowering plants. With their unique ability to fly farther than the average insect and with their skin coating, bats make excellent pollinators. As they lap up the nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to their coat. Then when they visit the next flower for a drink, the pollen falls onto said flower. The bulsa tree population depends highly on the bat pollination process. Bulsa is the world’s lightest wood tree and is used for aircraft construction and surfboards since bulsa wood also floats.

Without these amazing, flying mammals, we would not have agave - a natural sugar alternative used to sweeten foods and used in medicines to fight diseases like cancer. Additionally, agave is also the main ingredient in tequila.

Bats also play a major role in pest control. In the U.S. alone, they eat enough pests to save more than $1 billion annually in pesticide costs and crop damage. As we are discovering the harmful effects of pesticides, we should welcome these creatures as they naturally combat the pest battle.

Why are these nocturnal insect eaters becoming endangered? As the human population and businesses grow, so also does our need for roads, buildings, and housing developments. With this human growth and development, the bats are losing their habitats.

Bats are also becoming endangered due to white-nose syndrome; a fungus that thrives in cold humid conditions of caves and mines where bats often dwell in wintertime. Discovered in 2006, this fungus grows on the muzzles, ears, and wings, and has claimed the lives of over five million bats.

During the winter, bats will either migrate south for warmer weather and a more plentiful food source, or hibernate in places such as caves, mines, or rock crevices to minimize energy expenditure. In Ohio, this will typically take place from approximately October 1st to March 31st. It is during this window that it is safer for certain tree work projects to be completed. Such examples are larger scale, heavier-wooded areas where bats are likely or known to be located. A residential or developed area is typically safe to perform tree work year-round since these are unpreferable and unlikely conditions for bats to call their home. Surveys can be performed, or in some cases are required, to determine if bats are present. These precautions are done to minimize disturbance for these endangered bats.

So what can we do to protect the flittermouse?

• Develop a natural habitat around your home if there is a confirmed bat sighting. In areas where it is safe to do so, leave dead and dying trees in their place. These trees can make great roosting sites for bats.

• Install a bat box 10 to 20 feet above ground and create a garden with flowering plants nearby. Place the bat box in an area that will get six to eight hours of direct sunlight primarily in the morning. Bats will take up residence and keep those pests away as your garden grows.

• Decrease the amount of light in your lawn area as too much light can disrupt bat behavior. Turn down the lights and watch the bat acrobatics as they munch on up to as 3,000 insects per night.

Every creature has a purpose on Earth and the bat is no exception. Let’s do all we can to help them as they continue to help us!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Michelle Burden I Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Michelle joined Russell Tree Experts in 2019. Fall is her favorite time of the year! When she is not working she enjoy spending time with family and friends.

Nicole Hoffman I Project Accountant, Russell Tree Experts

Nicole joined Russell Tree Experts in 2023! Her favorite tree is the sugar maple! She is drawn to the tree industry because of the awesome people. Outside of work, you can find her enjoying quality family time or eating her favorite food: Mexican food!

The Root of Many Plant Problems in Central Ohio: Soil pH

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist
January 16, 2025​

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/16/25 from its original publish date of 4/24/24.]

You’ve probably heard the term pH. You may even think “I know this one - it means something is either acidic, neutral, or alkaline”, and that wouldn’t be wrong. But what does that mean and why does it matter? What determines the pH of soil, water, or even the human body? Like the periodic table of elements, pH may be something that reminds you of high school chemistry class, something you’ve filed away under the “when am I ever going to use this?” section of your brain, long ago forgotten and collecting dust ever since it was put there. While pH is far from being an endorphin-producing topic, it does significantly influence plant growth and overall health in your landscape. Let’s discuss the role that soil pH plays in nutrient availability, soil chemistry, and even microorganism activity, and why it matters for your plants.

pH and How It’s Influenced

pH stands for “potential of hydrogen”, and is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, ranging from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. A value below 7 is considered acidic while a value above 7 is considered alkaline (or basic). This scale represents the concentration of hydrogen ions present, with acidic solutions having a greater number of ions and alkaline solutions having fewer ions. In soils, that concentration of hydrogen ions is influenced by things such as the parent rock material that originally formed the soil, human activity, climate, and the presence or lack of organic matter. In turn, the resulting pH will influence the availability of nutrients essential for plant growth, microbial activity that helps with nutrient absorption, and soil chemistry that influences the breakdown of soil particles into more usable forms. Of the influencing factors mentioned above, parent rock material and the presence or lack of organic matter often go hand in hand and are the most significant influencers in our central Ohio landscapes. Central Ohio largely consists of limestone bedrock, which naturally has a higher pH than what’s preferable for most plants. So you might ask “Well, how is it then that any plants can be healthy and thrive in central Ohio?”. The answer is organic matter. In an undisturbed, natural environment like the forest, years and years of organic matter have formed on top of the infamous “Ohio clay” subsoil that we encounter in our backyards. The source of this organic matter comes from falling leaves, dead branches and trees, and dying organisms just to name a few, that collect on the forest floor year after year, decade after decade. These are all things we tend to remove from our landscapes to keep them tidy, which results in a lack of organic matter formation over time. For more on how to address this topic, check out our Arbor Ed article “Leave those Leaves!”

Nutrient Availability

Chlorosis in a pin oak tree in Bexley, Ohio

pH influences the availability of essential nutrients in the soil by changing their level of solubility. This simply means that pH will determine whether or not these nutrients are in a form that can be absorbed by the tiny roots and roots hairs of plants. Most plants will prefer growing in soil with a pH range between 6-7, slightly acidic to neutral. When the pH is out of its optimal range for a particular plant (generally too high in central Ohio), the plant’s growth may slow, it may lose overall health and vigor, or conditions like chlorosis can develop because that plant isn’t getting the nutrients it needs to carry out essential functions for growth. Chlorosis, or yellowing of leaf tissue, is a very common condition in central Ohio and can be seen most often with trees like pin oak, red maple, white pine, and river birch. It’s interesting to note that these are trees that are either native to Ohio or an adjacent region. In their natural habitats where organic matter is abundant, soil pH is lower and nutrients are readily available for uptake. The parent material, derived from limestone and having higher pH levels, does not affect the trees since the absorbing roots are largely growing in the organic layer above it. In our backyards however, carpeted with lawn but cleared annually of leaves, higher pH levels can quickly cause issues even with otherwise healthy trees.

Chart showing availability of essential elements at various pH levels

Microbial Activity

pH affects the activity of microorganisms in the soil. These microorganisms are essential for plant health, helping plants to absorb certain nutrients, or aiding in the breakdown of organic matter into available forms for your plants. Certain fungi, bacteria, or insects that benefit a particular plant will naturally thrive in the same pH that is ideal for that plant. Encouraging the proper pH for your plants in turn helps to foster a healthier population of these important helpers in the soil. In the same way that our own bodies are influenced by the health of our gut bacteria, plants rely on microbial activity in the soil. Without it, they can struggle to carry out essential functions for proper growth and overall health.

Soil Chemistry

Similar to nutrient availability, pH can affect the chemistry of the soil and determine whether or not the available nutrients will be absorbed by roots. It also influences the composition of the soil, helping certain minerals to break down into smaller molecules, ultimately affecting the charge of soil particles and the ability for the soil to hold on to essential elements that could otherwise be removed from the soil. A good example of this would be a soil’s ability to retain certain nutrients by preventing them from getting washed out of the soil by irrigation or rainfall. Acidic soils tend to be better at retaining more of these charged nutrients. It's no coincidence then that most plants prefer acidic or slightly acidic soils, as the lower pH makes those soils richer in nutrients and more “user friendly” for plants.

 ~

Soil pH plays a significant role in the overall health of trees, shrubs, and other plants in our landscape. A little bit of knowledge can go a long way in helping to understand the unique issues you may have in your central Ohio landscape. Below is a list of a few things you can consider in determining what’s best for your yard.

• Have a soil sample from your yard submitted for analysis to help determine if there is a pH issue or nutrient deficiency.

• If you know that you have higher pH levels, consider planting trees and shrubs that are more tolerant of alkaline soils.

• Try incorporating more organic matter into your soil by allowing leaves to decompose in landscape beds over the winter, and consider enlarging groundcover or mulch beds around trees (less lawn)

• Have root zone invigoration work done for trees that are struggling with nutrient deficiencies and/or soil compaction.

• Apply pH lowering products to landscape beds with particularly sensitive trees or shrubs (note that this is something that generally needs done annually, as permanently lowering the pH of soil with additives is next to impossible).  

As always, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree quote by giving us a call at (614) 895-7000 or by visiting RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote

Additional Tree Preservation Articles!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Fungicides in Full Effect!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
March 20, 2025

Plant diseases love spring! As temperatures warm and tender new growth emerges, conditions are ideal for fungal pathogens to settle in and take up residence in our favorite trees. It is now when many plants are most susceptible AND treatable for fungal diseases, such as Dothistroma needle cast of Austrian pine, apple scab of flowering crabapple, Rhizosphaera needle cast of blue spruce, rust diseases on hawthorn and pear, and many others. So, rest easy as you see our tree wellness crews all over town arresting pathogenic perpetrators. 

For this article, I want to focus on apple scab because it may be the most aesthetically devastating disease of ornamental trees and it is one of the most common diseases we see daily out in the field. 

What is the disease and what does it do?

Apple scab is caused by the pathogen Venturia inaequalis.  It is a common disease targeting the rose family of plants which includes crabapple, apple, pear, hawthorn, mountain ash, cotoneaster and pyracantha.

Apple scab produces lesions on leaves, flowers, fruit and on young succulent shoots.  When infected areas are numerous, leaves can become curled and distorted and severe infections can lead to complete defoliation of trees and shrubs.

Several years of early leaf loss generally results in poor growth, reduced bloom and increased susceptibility to winter injury and insect predation.

images courtesy of OSU BYGL

How does the disease work?

Apple scab overwinters in fallen diseased leaves and in the soil. Disease development is favored by wet weather and cool temperatures that generally occur in central Ohio in the spring and early summer. Fungal spores are moved from the ground and carried to trees by raindrop splash and wind where they make their way to leaves, flowers, and fruit.  

During wet periods, newly emerging crabapple leaves are extremely susceptible to infection. The longer the leaves remain wet, the more significant the infection can be. 10-20 days after initial infection, new spores are released which infect new leaves. Repeated infections can continue through the summer until environmental conditions become too hot and dry for the pathogen.

What can be done to protect my crabapples?

For most crabapple trees, fungicides must be applied preventatively to successfully manage apple scab. Fungicide sprays should begin when the first green leaves are emerging with additional sprays being applied in roughly two-week intervals.  The number of fungicide applications needed can vary with weather conditions but generally, we recommend three separate applications.

Other cultural practices that can increase the effectiveness of fungicide applications when managing apple scab are:

1. Raking up and destroying infected fallen leaves to reduce locations where the apple scab pathogen can overwinter

2. Space crabapple trees generously to increase air circulation around trees

3. Prune out crossing limbs, vigorous upright sprouts, and suckers to increase airflow and sunlight penetration into the canopy (this can help foliage dry faster after rain or dew)

4. Avoid overhead irrigation, if plants need watering, apply water directly to the root zone. (Check out this article on best tree watering practices)

Additionally, much breeding and selection work has been performed within the nursery industry to introduce scab-resistant crabapples into the landscape. A short list of some of the most scab-resistant cultivars include:

1. ‘Coralburst’,

2. ‘Donald Wyman’

3. ‘Prairifire’

4. ‘Purple Prince’

5. ‘Red Jewel’

6. ‘Royal Raindrops’

7. ‘Sugar Tyme.’  

Also, selecting a tree that is not a member of the Rose family would be a guaranteed way to avoid apple scab.

Other common fungal diseases of trees that can be managed using fungicides include Oak Wilt, Dutch Elm Disease, Powdery Mildew, Black Knot, Anthracnose, and Verticillium wilt.  

Remember, application timing is important and most fungal diseases of trees and shrubs are treated preventively. Treatments are far less likely to be effective when applied after the disease(s) has shown up. Tree disease diagnosis and treatment recommendations should be made by a professional arborist. Definitive disease identification may even require sending samples to a plant pathology lab. Russell Tree Experts will provide this service if needed or recommended.

If you have questions about fungal diseases of trees on your property, request a free quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® at (614) 895-7000 or RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

Please note: This article was originally published on 3/25/24 and was revised and republished on 3/20/25.

ADDITIONAL TREE PRESERVATION ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and is well versed in plant pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Tree Work in the Winter?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2025

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/25 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]

“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.

Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.

Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.

Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.

Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.

With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.

One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!

As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!

When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?

Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!

Two examples of trees with codominant stems

You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant. 

Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau

To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.

So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years. 

However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:

End-Weight Reductions

• Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.

Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree.

Cabling Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.

A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio.

Through-Brace Support System

• Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.

Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted.

Propping Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.

A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina.

All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.

3 Knots for Your Backyard!

What uses come to mind when you think of knot-tying? Putting up a rope swing, securing a load in a truck bed, or installing a makeshift fence around the garden perhaps?

Rope handling and knot-tying may be overlooked by many today as an antiquated skill lost to history. When questioned, most people may only think about knot-tying and rope handling as a badge that is to be awarded to young Boy or Girl Scouts. 

Or, if you are an avid history aficionado like myself, knot-tying may even conjure up images in your mind of the seafaring sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The age of sail was one of the pinnacles of human technology with navigating the oceans on massive wooden ships. Skilled crews used miles of rigging consisting of ropes and knots to help steer the large vessel.

The rigging for a British ship-of-the-line.

All of these scenarios are just a brief glimpse into how interwoven human history is with knot-tying and the use of rope. Some historians even believe that knot-tying and rope handling is a technology older than the wheel. It is a relationship as old as recorded history itself! 

In a world full of technological advancements and mechanical wonders, you won’t be able to find a replacement for good knot know-how and rope handling. Just think of some of the industries we wouldn’t have without them: rope access, technical rescue, arboriculture, commercial trucking and shipping, commercial fishing, performing arts, the list goes on and on!

Let’s take a look at three knots that you may find useful in your own backyard or around the house. I will let the videos speak for themselves on how to tie the knot, but I will include some common uses down below!

Figure Eight Stopper Knot

The figure eight stopper knot is a relatively easy knot to tie and functions as the name implies. Tying this knot on the end of a rope may prevent it from slipping out of your hand or falling out of your reach. The figure eight knot is the building block of a whole range of more knots relating to or requiring the figure eight knot!

Tying a number of these knots about a foot apart from each other on an anchored rope will give your kids a simple way to climb a rope. Using a short section of 2x6 wood with two equally spaced holes, two equally-long pieces of rope, and two figure eight stopper knots, you can have yourself an affordable rope swing!

But how do we anchor our rope swing?

Bowline Knot

This particular knot forms a secured loop at the end of a rope that can be used to attach the rope to a suitable anchor. Commonly referred to as the “king of knots”, this knot is also the building block of a whole family of bowline-related knots. It may be more difficult to tie than our figure eight stopper knot, but this is a very appropriate knot to use for anchoring our rope swing as well as anchoring a rope to a truck bed or trailer when you are trying to secure a load,

Chain Sinnet (Daisy Chain)

This knot is used primarily for shortening or storing a longer rope and having quick access to all of its length, without the hassle of coiling or tangled, unwanted knots! I use this knot extensively to store longer extension cords in my garage so that I can plug them in and then transport them to where I need them on my property without having to deal with a tangled, jumbled up mess.

BONUS Knot: Slipknot

If you have mastered the chain sinnet, then you may have learned a fourth knot without even realizing it! The chain sinnet is started by tying a Slipknot. We have our arborists first learn this knot when they begin working at Russell Tree Experts. It is an easy, quick knot to learn and allows you to add a loop anywhere along the rope. To retain the loop in the rope, be sure to clip a carabiner or some sort of equipment to the loop. We use this knot daily to send equipment into a tree’s crown. You may find a use for it such as when adjusting the height of a hammock!

I hope this article has inspired you to look into how tying knots can improve your day-to-day activities around the house. Cheers to the craft of knot-tying!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob joined RTE in 2015 and has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees recreationally (in addition to professionally) and spending lots of time with his family.

Meet Mitch Lippencott!

Dear Reader,

I’m proud and excited to announce the newest member of our regional management team, Mitch Lippencott. Mitch is someone I always enjoy working and sharing tree talk with. If you are fortunate enough to reside in the Grandview, Franklinton, Hilliard, Dublin or Plain City/Marysville areas, Mitch will be your new Russell Tree Experts representative!

Mitch has more than 20 years experience in the green industry. His background is diverse - before Russell Tree Experts, Mitch worked for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and performed municipal tree work for two different communities. His experience gives him a wide spectrum of knowledge in horticulture and tree care.

Mitch joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 as a ground worker and progressed quickly to plant health care and production crew leader before joining our management team. Mitch is an Ohio State graduate, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. He is preparing to take the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® exam this winter. We wish him well in this new position and all endeavors!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010