It’s Easy as G-D-D (Growing Degree Days)

By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
January 9, 2025

If you are a client of Russell Tree Experts and have us care for your trees, you’ve likely heard us use the term “growing degree day” or GDD. The concept of a growing degree day is basically how many units of heat have been accumulated within a 24-hour period. Any day with a mean temperature (average of the maximum and minimum temperature) over the “threshold temperature” of 50 degrees, growing degree days are accumulated. A threshold temperature is a temperature at which a specific plant or insect can progress in its development or life cycle. Different organisms have different base temperatures; however, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is considered acceptable for all plants and insects.

Calculating growing degree days can be complex to varying degrees. The simplest method is to subtract the base temperature from the mean temperature for the day and then add it to the previous day's growing degree day total.

Example:

It is April 11th. The average temperature is 61 degrees. Yesterday, the running total of GDD was 214. Subtracting the base temperature of 50 from the mean temperature of 61 degrees, we would arrive at 11 degrees. We would add that to yesterday's running total (214+11), and today’s current GDD is 225.

~

What information can we learn from knowing the growing degree day? Plant experts and entomologists have observed that the accumulation of heat causes development to proceed. For any given insect, its eggs will hatch, or an adult will emerge at precisely the same growing degree day every year. The date can vary from year to year since the temperature is not the same every day of the year. Below is a graphic of the growing degree day on the same date, April 11th, for the past fourteen years.

(https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/summary.asp):  

Since we know that plants and insects do the same thing on the same approximate GDD every year (not necessarily on the same date), we also know when to apply certain treatments for optimal effectiveness. Additionally, we can use plants as a “phenological indicator” to understand when certain insects will be active. Using our example of April 11th and GDD of 225, Serviceberry (GDD 219) and Common Chokecherry (GDD 221) should both be in full bloom. Various adult leafminers will also be emerging around this time (birch leafminer – GDD 215, elm leafminer – GDD 219, alder leafminer – GDD 224).

Some people have even taken it further and planted phenological gardens! Farmers have used this practice for centuries to know when to plant certain crops and vegetables and when to look for specific pests. Here are a few rules of thumb:

• Plant potatoes when the first dandelion blooms

• Plant peas when forsythia blooms

• Plant radishes and spinach when crocus is in bloom

• Plant carrots and beets when daffodils bloom

• Plant bush beans when apple trees bloom

• Plant annual flowers and squashes when lilacs are in full bloom

These were developed as a way of measuring growing degree days before the formal calculation of growing degree days existed, but they achieved similar results.

Entomologists work hard daily to figure out the growing degree day of certain active insects and pests to improve “best practices” observed in horticulture and arboriculture. One insect we are watching closely is the nitidulid beetle. These beetles have been known to carry a fungus that causes oak wilt, a deadly fungal disease of oak trees. As we learn more about these beetles, we can implement more effective management practices to ensure the safety of everyone’s oak trees! For now, we go off of the best information available to us. You can learn more how Russell Tree Experts handles oak wilt by reading here!

I am proud to be part of the arboriculture industry. The industry is very receptive to better and new information as knowledge is developed and discovered. The world is evolving and I’m happy that Russell Tree Experts prides itself on keeping up with the times and staying well-informed on essential tree issues. As we learn more, we will share with you all as well. As always, thank you for your time, and I hope you all do your best to be a tree advocate in your community. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote!

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ON GROWING DEGREE DAYS

The Ohio State University: https://weather.cfaes.osu.edu/gdd/glossary.asp

Smithsonian Gardens: https://gardens.si.edu/learn/blog/gardening-guided-by-phenology/

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Lindsey Rice | Special Projects Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A

Call OUPS So You Don't... Oops!!

By Joe Gabrielse
December 19, 2024

Are you about to start digging in your yard for a project such as to plant a tree or to grind out a tree stump? Before you begin, it's vital to prioritize safety by taking the necessary precautions to protect yourself and underground utility lines. One key step you should never overlook is calling the Ohio Utilities Protection Service, commonly known as OUPS. 

An example of a gas line marked in yellow.

811 is the national hotline for "Call Before You Dig," allowing homeowners and professionals to request free marking of underground utility lines. By calling 811 prior to digging, you can prevent accidental damage to vital utility lines like gas, electric, water, sewage, and telecommunications. Examples of digging projects where you can benefit from calling OUPS are planting a tree, grinding a stump, digging a new flower bed, putting in a new shed, laying a new driveway, installing a post for a new mailbox, building a retaining wall, and more. If you are utilizing Russell Tree Experts to care for your trees and digging is required such as in the case of stump grinding, we will take care of this process for you and call OUPS ahead of time!

Upon dialing 811, you will be connected to a local center. A representative will gather details about your digging project, such as location and depth of excavation. The center will then inform relevant utility companies who will then dispatch technicians to mark their underground lines with flags, paint, or both. In some cases, you will also receive an email with a summary containing a birds-eye view of the property with color coded markers as to where any lines may be located.

Advantages of Contacting 811 Before Digging

The blue oval indicates the location of a gas line that we need to be extra precautious around.

There are numerous benefits to calling 811 before digging, such as the following:

1. Compliance with Regulations. Many states mandate calling 811 to prevent harm to underground infrastructure.

2. Peace of Mind. Taking necessary safety precautions can provide peace of mind throughout your digging project and minimize the chances of stress and headaches.

3. Financial Savings. Preventing damage to utility lines can save you from costly repair expenses.

4. Enhanced Safety. Marking utility lines helps prevent potentially hazardous incidents.

Depending on the particular tree, a stump could be ground anywhere from approximately 4 to 16 inches below ground level.

Proceeding with digging without calling 811 can lead to severe outcomes. Accidentally striking a buried utility line can disrupt your project and result in headaches, expensive repairs, injuries, or even fatalities. Avoiding these dangers is as straightforward as dialing 811 before you commence digging. It’s free! 

One detail to be cautious of is that privately installed lines or pipes might not be reported to OUPS, therefore leading to those lines being left unmarked. It would be up to you to mark or be made aware of to prevent damage to said unmarked lines. Examples of unmarked lines could be an electrical line to an exterior light post, irrigation lines, and invisible dog fences.

At Russell Tree Experts, we utilize OUPS quite literally every single day. Whenever a customer requests stump grinding services, our stump grinders call OUPS a few days ahead of time so that way our machines can focus on the stump and avoid damaging any lines. 

Russell Tree Experts offers stump grinding services. Before any stump is ground, we call OUPS to mark any nearby lines that could pose an issue.

For larger tree work projects such as on federal and state property or along highways and powerlines, we contact OUPS to request any and all lines to be marked. Whenever we are using heavier equipment such as CMIs, ASVs, or Bobcats, we are sometimes asked to provide specifications such as gross vehicle weight, track width, lengths of tracks on the ground, and distance between tracks to ensure that there is no risk of damage to underground lines even during movement of our machines. Some pipes and lines can be located 18 to 24 inches below ground level. With a machine that weighs 85,000 pounds, even just driving 2 feet above the line’s location could cause damage. If the pipe is unavoidable and a piece of equipment must cross its location, we build an “air bridge” using timber mats to cross the line safely and to eliminate the risk of damage. When a line is avoidable and no tree work or equipment needs to occur nearby, we still like to have the line marked and we will set a minimum approach distance such as 50 feet so that way our crew members know not to come anywhere close to the line’s location.

A balled-and-burlapped tree can require a lot of digging in order for it to be properly planted.

The examples above may not be relatable to you from day-to-day on your private property, but tree planting can! According to the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide, a saucer shaped planting hole two to three times the width of the root ball is recommended for optimal tree planting. The depth of said hole is going to be approximately the height of the root ball, which could be upwards of two to three feet tall for a large balled-and-burlapped tree. This area is definitely deep and wide enough to where the risk of damaging a line could be high. A simple and free 811 call to OUPS could provide you the peace of mind of planting your tree with no risk (not including privately unmarked lines)!

In conclusion, calling 811 before digging is a simple yet critical measure to ensure the safety of your excavation work. Making this call can help prevent accidents, legal complications, and unnecessary expenses. Remember that safety is paramount, so don't forget to contact 811 before picking up that shovel. Be safe and happy digging!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Joe Gabrielse I Administrative Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Joe joined Russell Tree Experts in 2022 with a background in dispatching of commercial vehicles and project management. He enjoys spending time with friends and family, attending different sporting events, traveling, car shows, sports collectibles shows and video games.

The Sugar Maple

By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 12, 2024​

The sugar maple tree (Acer saccharum) is one of my favorite trees and a beloved symbol of North American forests, renowned for its beauty and many uses. It is native across southern Canada, the midwest, and the northeastern US states. Known for its vibrant autumn colors, sweet sap, and high-quality timber, the sugar maple plays an essential role in the natural landscape, urban forest, economy, and cultural heritage of the northeastern United States.

The sugar maple tree grows best in hardiness zones 3 through 8. It has a slow-to-medium growth speed and will grow to a mature height of 60 to 75 feet with a mature width of 40 to 50 feet. Sugar maple trees grow well in well-drained soil and in partial sun, but will perform best in full sun conditions.

The sugar maple is one of the most visually captivating trees, especially during the fall when its leaves turn to brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Each autumn, forests, yards, and parks where sugar maples grow become vibrant canvases of color. Beyond its autumn display, the sugar maple brings beauty throughout the year. In spring, delicate clusters of yellow-green flowers bloom, signaling the arrival of warmer weather. By summer, the tree’s broad canopy offers cool, welcoming shade, making it a favorite in parks along streets and in backyards. Even in winter, when its branches are bare, the sugar maple’s ovular architecture is a beautiful sight.

The sugar maples in my backyard are a constant source of joy to my family and me; my kids often collect the autumn leaves and we all appreciate the cool shade it provides during hot summer afternoons where we play with our dog.

The sugar maple’s value extends far beyond its visual appeal. It is also a tree of exceptional utility, benefiting industries and ecosystems. The sugar maple is the lifeblood of the maple syrup industry, which is both economically and culturally significant. In early spring, when temperatures fluctuate between freezing at night and above freezing during the day, sap begins to flow within the tree. This sap is collected through taps and boiled down to produce pure maple syrup. It takes about 40 gallons of sap to produce just one gallon of syrup, making the process both labor-intensive and rewarding. Sharing the resulting syrup with my family is a tradition whether drizzled on pancakes or used to sweeten a good recipe. I like to mix two tablespoons of maple syrup with a teaspoon of dijon mustard, ¼ teaspoon of dried thyme, and 1 clove of garlic, minced, for an excellent glaze on chicken or ham.

Sugar maple is also valuable for its timber. Known as "hard maple," its wood is highly durable with a dense grain that makes it resistant to wear. This strength makes sugar maple wood a popular choice for furniture, cabinetry, and flooring. It is especially favored for high-traffic areas such as gymnasiums and basketball courts where durability is crucial.

In addition to its strength, sugar maple wood is renowned for its beauty. Patterns like "curly" and "birdseye" maple — unique grain formations that resemble ripples or tiny eyes — are highly sought after by woodworkers. Musical instruments including violins, guitars, and pianos, are often crafted from maple wood due to its aesthetic appeal and due to the wood’s density enhancing sound quality.

Birdseye Maple Wood Pattern

Curly Maple Wood Pattern

The sugar maple also contributes to the health of ecosystems in numerous ways. Its dense canopy provides shelter for birds, mammals, and insects, while its seeds and buds serve as food for creatures such as squirrels and deer. In autumn, when the tree drops its leaves, the organic matter enriches the soil, promoting healthy plant growth.

Note the fall foliage containing greens, reds, oranges, and yellows!

The tree also plays a critical role in water regulation as its roots absorb rainfall and reduce runoff, helping to prevent flooding. Forests dominated by sugar maple trees stabilize soil and prevent erosion, especially on slopes and riverbanks. The tree’s ability to thrive in well-drained, fertile soils makes it a reliable indicator of a healthy forest.

While sugar maple is a great tree for aesthetics and practicality, it is now facing significant threats due to changing weather patterns and climate shifts. The species thrives in cool climates with predictable seasons and the recent shift in temperatures, along with changes in precipitation, is making it harder for sugar maple trees to survive and reproduce in many areas. Sugar maple trees require cold winters to produce sap. The ideal conditions for sap flow — freezing nights followed by warmer days — are becoming less consistent as winters grow shorter and warmer. Without these precise temperature swings, sap production is also decreasing, directly impacting the maple syrup industry. 

Rising temperatures are also forcing the sugar maple’s growing range to shift northward. Areas that were once ideal habitats for the tree are becoming too warm or dry, while colder regions farther north are now better suited to support new growth. This gradual shift threatens the cultural and economic identity of communities that have long relied on sugar maple forests. Scientists predict that if current trends continue, sugar maple trees may disappear from parts of their southern range, such as Ohio, Pennsylvania and New Jersey, within the next century.

Additionally, the increase in frequency and intensity of droughts have been particularly damaging to sugar maple. While the tree prefers moist, well-drained soils, extended periods of drought weaken its root system and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Invasive pests like the Asian longhorned beetle and certain fungi have expanded their range into sugar maple forests. These pests can cause severe damage (and often tree death), weakening the trees and making them more vulnerable to environmental stresses. Fortunately, the Asian longhorned beetle has not been found in central Ohio, highlighting the importance of maintaining strict quarantine zones and monitoring programs. Preventing its spread is crucial to protecting the region’s sugar maples (as well as several additional native genera) and the ecosystems and industries they support.

Russell Tree Experts offers a range of tree services to help preserve your sugar maple trees, including health assessments to identify stress factors, pest and disease management to help mitigate threats, and soil care programs to improve root resilience. With expert pruning, deep-root fertilization, and a detailed plan, we can attempt to mitigate these challenges. For a free tree work quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

Guide to Choosing the Right Christmas Tree for You!

By Mike Wilson
ISA Certified Arborist®
December 5, 2024​

Thanksgiving has come and gone and with that comes the mad dash to prepare for Christmas. Gift shopping, meal prepping, decorating, and Christmas tree buying are just a few of the many tasks leading up to the holiday season. This article is to help ease your stress when picking out a tree so that you can stay jolly throughout December. We all want a tree that would make Clark Griswald proud. Picking out the wrong Christmas tree and not properly caring for it can result in a “Charlie Brown” tree.  

The six most common Christmas trees sold in Ohio are Scotch pine, eastern white pine, Colorado blue spruce, Douglas fir, Canaan fir, and Fraser fir! Each tree has their own unique characteristics that I will dive into to help you make the right decision and keep it looking as healthy as possible. Some factors to consider and keep in mind when reading these descriptions include size, color, scent, branch strength, and needle retention.

pick the right tree for you

keep your tree healthy

If you’re like me, you may have already purchased your tree or will be soon, and you’ll want to keep it as healthy as possible. Not only will this improve the overall aesthetics of the tree for multiple weeks, but it will also help reduce the post-Christmas cleanup mess by minimizing the amount of needles falling off.  Here are some tips and tricks I recommend:

1. If possible, cutting your tree fresh will be best to ensure your tree stays alive for the maximum amount of time. If you run a hand down the branch, little to no needles should release on a healthy tree.

2. If your tree has been cut for more than 6 to 8 hours, make a new cut approximately 1 inch from the tree’s base to improve water uptake. Most retailers should cut a small “cookie” from the base for you before leaving. These cookies make great ornaments once dried or they can be boiled in water for a festive scent (consider adding cinnamon sticks and orange peels for an even better aroma).

3. Avoid placing your tree directly next to heat sources or direct sunlight to help keep your tree from drying out too fast and to minimize the risk of fire.

4. Last but not least, WATER! Cut trees should be placed in a stand that can hold water. Ensure the water is above the cut base and refill as necessary with tap water. Additives to the water are not recommended. 

keep your tree Safe

Christmas trees are responsible for approximately 200 house fires every year. It’s a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand, know where its located, ensure that it is properly charged, and to educate everyone in the home on how to use it in the event of a fire. If you are unable to power any lights or decorations directly into a wall outlet, use properly functioning extension cords and power sources. Store bought tree stands are designed to hold your tree securely upright. The wider the base, the more stable it will be. I highly recommend using one instead of having the tree free-standing or creating your own DIY stand. For those with little ones like myself, place delicate and small ornaments out of reach from smaller children and make sure they know not to try and eat the needles.

A real Christmas tree can last anywhere from 3 to 6 weeks and cannot be kept for next year. There are many creative ways to reuse your tree after the holidays are over, but most people will either chop it in pieces for firewood or dispose of it to be composted or recycled. Pine needles can make for a great natural mulch alternative if you spread them out 2 to 4 inches deep around the trunk of a tree. If doing this, please ensure that the trunk’s root flare is exposed and not buried. For those who live in a home where it is difficult to dispose of your tree, you can drop off and dispose of your old Christmas tree at Russell Tree Experts (3427 E Dublin Granville Road Westerville, OH 43081) on Thursday, January 2nd and Friday, January 3rd from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. You can knock on our front door and one of our local, friendly office staff members will help you dispose of your old Christmas tree! We’ll ensure that it gets reused to become mulch or compost!

Photos

Canaan Fir

Eastern White Pine

Scotch Pine

Douglas Fir

Colorado Blue Spruce

Fraser Fir

Sincerely,

Mike Wilson I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike joined RTE in 2013 and has been in the green industry for over 14 years! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and a graduate of Oregon State University. Mike is an outdoor enthusiast and a US Army Medic Veteran!

---

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Cabling for Safer and Longer Living Trees

By Harry Carter
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 26, 2024​

As an ISA Certified Arborist® and avid tree climber, I find myself in many different trees and looking down over elegant landscapes, playgrounds and houses. I work in many trees requested to be removed by their owners due to concerns regarding potential tree failure and property damage. Although some of these trees may have defects such as poor branching habits, cracks, codominant stems, and more, there are tree preservation solutions that can work to keep them upright, healthy, and stable! Proper tree care including tree cabling can go a long way toward maintaining your big, green giant!

Trees are such a beneficial part of your property whether it’s the shade the canopies can provide to your home or the aesthetics of the wind blowing through their leaves. Unfortunately like everything else, these beautiful organisms can have their problems, especially as they mature and grow larger. These giants need some help to stick around just like me and you. Defects left unattended such as included bark or wounds can create weakened unions in your tree. Luckily, there are solutions to help keep your canopy stable! Cabling the tree creates strength from above to protect the tree and provide it with a long-term health plan to keep it together. Paired with a good pruning regimen and tree wellness prescription, we can help to keep the tree happy and healthy. Russell Tree Experts offers two types of cable systems that each have their own supportive benefits! 

Tree Candidates for Cabling

You might ask yourself “Why would my tree require cables?” Though trees are strong and beautiful, sometimes they are imperfect and grow in funky, different ways to reach sunlight more or to grow away from a structure, often resulting in poor branching habits or defects such as cracked stems, codominant stems, or included bark. Codominant stems are two similarly sized stems growing away from each other, causing a v-shaped crotch that is prone to splitting. Included bark is bark trapped and growing between two branches or unions. This bark acts as a wedge and makes the crotch more prone to splitting.

Other trees that would benefit from cabling are trees damaged from a storm, impacted by an insect or disease, or that have been pruned improperly away from a utility line. These scenarios often leave behind defects and/or wounds, leaving the tree in a weakened, vulnerable state. Wounds take time to compartmentalize (compartmentalization is how trees heal) and sometimes the tree doesn’t have the resources to close the wound quick enough before decay starts to creep into the heartwood of the tree. Cabling can indirectly assist trees in compartmentalization by supporting particular limbs and giving the tree a better chance of compartmentalizing over the affected area before failure. Limb failure can be the end of it for a tree and potentially damage targets below such as turf, concrete, cars, or structures. Supporting these works of art nature created is an essential part of tree preservation and in protecting your property.

What is Tree Cabling?

Tree cabling is the installation of hardware in a tree to provide supplemental support to weak sections at risk of failure. This will limit movement of branches and help support loads. This is especially beneficial during adverse weather conditions such as heavy rainstorms, harsh wind events, and blizzards. There are two general cabling options: Static and dynamic. Both options have their advantages and proper use cases.

Static Cable

Static cable

A static cable is an extra high strength, galvanized steel cable. Russell Tree Experts commonly uses a 5/16 inch cable with a minimum breaking strength of 11,200 pounds, but other sizes exist. This provides low to minimal stretch or movement. A static cable is an ideal choice for a tree containing moderate to severe damage such as a tear, split or crack. Using an analogy of a broken bone, this is similar to using a splint to prevent the limb from moving in a harmful way. With a static cable, the arborist drills a hole through the stem, terminates the cable using a wedge grip device, and traverses the canopy to the other side to drill a second hole and terminate the system using a come along to tension the cable to make the support more rigid. Although this method of cabling is intrusive, it is much stronger than dynamic cable and will allow less movement. Sometimes this is necessary in order for a damaged tree to stay together.

Dynamic Cable

Dynamic cable

The second option is a dynamic cable. As the name suggests, a dynamic cable allows the tree to sway with the wind and work together to stay upright. A dynamic cable can be seen as a preventative option to help keep the tree together before a split occurs. This is beneficial for trees with poor branching habits or codominant stems. One of the benefits to a dynamic cabling system is allowing reaction wood to strengthen over time, thus making the tree healthier overall. Reaction wood is wood that has formed due to stresses like leaning or bending in order to offer additional strength and support. It is less intrusive to the tree and does not require any drilling. Dynamic cabling is also beneficial for a union with minor damage that is at risk of separating from the rest of the tree. This is an aid to help the tree compartmentalize and work toward creating good structure. Continuing on with the broken bone analogy, this would be similar to using a sling that allows for a little more movement than a splint. 

This cable system is a hollow braid rope that is much softer and does not require the arborist to drill into the tree. The dynamic cable is similar to a static cable in that it must be terminated, but the arborist makes a loop and splices the rope together to make a loop on the limb. Afterwards, the arborist traverses the canopy to make another loop and hand tightens the line to achieve the proper support the tree needs.

Improper Cabling

If a cable is installed correctly, it shouldn’t cause any damage or girdle the tree. A static cable arguably harms the tree during the drilling process, but it should only be performed if the end result is a net positive towards a tree’s health through adding additional support. In the case of a dynamic cable, girdling can occur when a cable loop is wrapped extremely tight around a stem, choking it out and restricting resources to the upper portion of the canopy above the cable. This can happen when a cable has not been inspected/adjusted for multiple years and the tree continues to grow. As a result, the bark and even the cambium layer can be damaged. 

An example of a girdled dynamic cable. ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® Jacob Nau does not approve.

Maintenance

After tree work occurs on a tree, the tree will react and adapt to the treatment slowly over time. Trees continue to grow and sometimes cables need to be adjusted to prevent girdling or to ensure correct placement in the upper 2/3 of the canopy from the union in question to work effectively. The International Society of Arboriculture recommends having cables inspected every 1 to 3 years. All cables should be inspected by a qualified arborist to check the tension and structure of the cable. Wildlife, weather, and UV degradation all play roles in the breakdown of a cable and should be considered by an arborist during an inspection. 

If you suspect that your tree may benefit from cabling, the next step would be to have an ISA Certified Arborist® inspect your tree(s) and provide a second opinion. There is a chance that cabling may be recommended alongside other services such as pruning or bracing. The arborist should have a strong recommendation as to which cable would best support your tree. 

Unfortunately, not all trees can be saved by cabling and in some cases, may require removal for safety purposes. With the proper tree candidate, tree cabling can be a good investment for both your tree and property. The science and art of tree preservation is very rewarding to the arborist as well as the manager of the tree. For a free tree work quote including cabling by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!   

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Harry Carter I General Crew Leader, Russell Tree Experts

Harry has been with RTE since 2015! He is an ISA Certified Arborist® and TCIA Certified Treecare Safety Professional (CTSP)! Harry has his associate’s degree in forestry management from Hocking College. His favorite tree is the Ginkgo biloba. When he’s not up climbing in a tree, you can find Harry playing in the woods with his family, caring for his bonsai trees, ice climbing, or rock climbing!

The Persian Parrotia

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist®
November 19, 2024​

A Persian parrotia tree (Parrotia persica)

For a variety of reasons, there are certain trees that never seem to get the attention and use they deserve in our Ohio landscapes. The Persian parrotia is one of those trees. The landscape industry tends to rely heavily on a narrow variety of tree species and the Persian parrotia is often overlooked when considering planting options for the landscape. Let’s shed some light on this beautiful, adaptable, and underutilized option.

The Persian parrotia (Parrotia persica), also sometimes known as the Persian ironwood, is a deciduous tree native to a small range of temperate forests in the Middle East. It can grow up to around 30 feet in height with a mature width of 15 to 30 feet. The crown’s shape is generally round or ovular and you may encounter trees grown with either single or multiple stems. The mature size of this tree alone makes it a noteworthy species as this medium size at maturity is often hard to come by and is typically satisfied with trees like river birch or linden. The former often has major health issues with central Ohio’s urban soils. Parrotias tend to be tolerant of less than ideal soil conditions once established, making them a good choice for residential, commercial, and municipal landscapes. Consideration should still be given to location on any property with regard to overhead wires as a 30 foot tree may still be tall enough to interfere with these utilities.

Fall color of Persian parrotia. Note the ~4 different colors of its leaves!

In addition to a desirable size as an accent or shade tree in the landscape, parrotias feature attractive dark green foliage with a gentle serration along the leaf margin. Avid gardeners and tree enthusiasts may find that parrotia foliage resembles that of witch hazel and fothergilla. This is because all three of these species belong to the witch-hazel family (Hamamelidaceae). Fall color is among the best you can find, with blends of yellows, oranges, pinks, and reds that almost seem to glow at the peak of fall foliage season. After the leaves drop, the tree continues to provide winter interest with a beautifully smooth and mottled bark, not unlike the mature bark of crape myrtle or lacebark pine. Flowering in central Ohio occurs in late winter and is not particularly showy. Parrotias are cold hardy to zone 4 (5a), making it a great match for central Ohio winter temperatures.

When planting a parrotia, the selected site should receive full sun to partial shade. Even though the species is tolerant of a variety of soil conditions, including soil pH and somewhat poor soil structure, the site should be well drained and not prone to standing water. With proper location to accommodate its future mature size, correct planting methods, and aftercare, parrotias can be healthy and beautiful additions to an Ohio landscape for several or more decades. Best of all, they are readily found at Ohio plant nurseries and garden centers, making them a tree species that you shouldn’t have to go too far to find! Happy planting!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Pawpaw Cream Pie and I

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®
November 7, 2024​

When it comes to trees, I’ve got lots of favorites. I have a favorite deciduous tree - the Persian parrotia. My favorite evergreen tree is the lacebark pine. My favorite tree for fall color is the black tupelo. I even have a favorite smelling tree - the concolor fir (I love that the crushed needles smell like oranges). Today, I’m writing about my favorite native, edible fruit tree, the pawpaw! Keep reading if you like pie.

A pawpaw tree (Asimina triloba) in the fall!

If you’re not hip to pawpaws already, the next paragraph is required reading. If you have pawpaw trees in your landscape currently, have ever attended the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, have a pawpaw cookbook, own an article of clothing with a pawpaw printed on it, or have a pawpaw bumper sticker on your car, you can jump ahead to the pie.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba), sometimes called custard apple, is a hardy and adaptable small tree, generally growing 15 - 25’ in height in the landscape, with a dense pyramidal shaped canopy (when grown in full sun). The leaves hang downward at an angle and give the tree a somewhat tropical appearance. The fall color of the leaves is a nice golden yellow. Maroon to purple flowers come out mid-spring and are pollinated by flies. Interesting side note: Some of the old timers I know hang meat in their pawpaw trees at the time of flowering to increase pollination as the meat attracts more flies. Pawpaw flowers give way to small fruits, 3 - 6” in length that somewhat resemble a banana and often form in clumps of 3 to 5. Depending on the tree, the fruit can ripen anywhere between late August and early October. Additional side notes: The pawpaw fruit is the largest fruit native to North America and the pawpaw tree is the host plant for the caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly. Good stuff!

Pawpaw fruit! Quarter for scale.

Pawpaw fruit is one of my favorite things to look forward to every year (up there with spring flowers and fall color). The fruit tastes similar to a banana, mango, pear but with more of a custard-like consistency. FYI, the fruit can often contain many large, lima bean-sized seeds, especially with wild picked fruit. The fruit also has a short shelf life, often lasting only a few days after ripening, which is why you don’t see pawpaws at Costco.

Several cultivated varieties of pawpaw exist now that have been selected for longer lasting and  larger fruit with less seeds. I personally recommend ‘Prolific,’ ‘Wells,’ and ‘Sweet Alice.’ These cultivated varieties can be difficult to source, but not impossible. Check in with the folks at Dannaher Landscaping in Galena who generally have several different varieties of pawpaw trees on hand. These are good friends of mine.

Collecting wild fruit is also cool and another reason to go out into the woods. In central Ohio, I typically find pawpaw trees growing naturally near the banks of Walnut Creek, Alum Creek, the Scioto River, the Olentangy River, and throughout wooded flood plains where it often develops a more open and leggy appearance. Near my office in Westerville, along the Alum Creek bike path, I have observed several pawpaw trees in excess of 30’ in height with decent fruit production. We’re getting closer to the part about pie.

Dad removing seeds from the pulp of a pawpaw with precision.

I first discovered pawpaw trees by accident while my brother and I were canoeing a multi-day trip down the Scioto River late summer 2006. We kept noticing the fruit reaching out over the river from Columbus to Portsmouth and we decided to bring some back home to our father. We really didn’t know what we had, but Dad figured out they were pawpaws and decided to save the seeds, which started some of our original trees. My brother and I have followed different paths growing up, but we both have become professional ISA Certified Arborists® and I think somehow it started with the power of the pawpaw. Almost pie time.

Since 2006, I have eaten pawpaw every which way. At the risk of sounding like Forrest Gump, I’ve had pawpaw ice cream, pawpaw candy, pawpaw beer, pawpaw bread, pawpaw salsa, deep fried pawpaw on a stick and everything pawpaw in between. Dad even invented the pawtini (a martini with a toothpick holding a slice of frozen pawpaw). Until recently, my preference for pawpaw provisions was just eating the pulp straight out of the skin with a spoon. If I’m feeling fancy, I might even chill the fruit first, cut it in half, and cover it with homemade whipping cream for an excellent dessert.

A couple of years ago a colleague sent me a recipe for pawpaw cream pie and it blew my mind! (Yes, it is now pie time.) I’ve been experimenting with different levels and ingredients ever since and today I present to you my final draft!  

T.J.’s Pawpaw Cream Pie Recipe

• ½ cup of sugar

• ⅓ cup of flour 

• 3 egg yolks, beaten (save the whites for the meringue topping)

• 3 egg whites

• 1 cup of milk

• 1 cup of heavy cream

• 1 cup of pureed pawpaw pulp

• 3 tbsp. of sugar

• 1 pinch of salt

• 1 baked 9-inch pastry shell

• Optional: ⅓ - ½ cup of chopped walnuts

Start by combining the sugar and flour. Add the beaten egg yolks, milk and cream. Mix well and add the pawpaw pulp and walnuts. The walnuts are not essential to the recipe but add some additional flavor and texture. Cook and stir constantly over a low heat until the mixture thickens. Let cool and then pour mixture into a baked pastry shell and cover with meringue. Make a meringue by beating the 3 left over egg whites stiff with 3 tbsp. of sugar and a pinch of salt. Bake at 350 degrees F for 12 - 15 minutes until meringue is browned.

I also make a true cream pie version of this pie following the same recipe except ditching the 3 egg whites and baking the custard and then adding homemade whipping cream to the top after the filling has cooled.   A simple and delicious recipe for whipping cream is to mix a half pint container of heavy whipping cream with ¼ cup of sugar and 1 teaspoon of vanilla.

Both of these versions are outstanding. If you like banana cream pie, you are going to love this recipe. I’m partial to the true cream pie version but full disclosure, most of my taste testing buddies prefer the meringue.

This recipe is a great way to use up several pawpaws at once as I often end up with fruit faster than I can eat it. Pawpaw is an underutilized tree in the landscape and I’m hoping that delicious pie will encourage you to plant one; although fruit production is better with two. Pawpaw is an easy tree to grow (I haven’t killed one yet) and it has no significant insect or disease problems. This tree will grow happily in a wide range of environments and tolerate some of the most challenging sites and conditions. I hope you can find a way to incorporate this great native tree into your landscape and I encourage you to share any pawpaw recipes, experiences or questions you might have with us at the bottom of this article. Look forward to hearing from you!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Firewood Cutting and Safety Tips!

By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist®
October 31, 2024

Fall is the time for football, leaf-peeping, pumpkin spice everything, and if you're like me, SO! MUCH! FIREWOOD! to process!!! In my twenty years of heating my home almost exclusively with firewood, I have learned a lot of tricks that inevitably came with learning from my mistakes. The following is a list of safety reminders and veteran advice for processing and burning wood in your own home. 

GETTING STARTED

When getting started, have a professional inspect and clean your chimney, stove, and/or fireplace annually. For heavier users like me, a second cleaning may be needed mid-winter. NEVER burn until recommended repairs are completed.

Keep fire extinguishers charged and easily accessible. Know how to operate one! Use appropriately aged hardwood species. For example, conifers should never be burned indoors. Never burn poison ivy or wood with vines you can't identify, even outdoors. Wood must be cut or split and sit long enough to allow moisture content to drop. This will typically take a minimum of 6 months. Wood with conks or mushrooms have sat too long.

Add an appropriately sized venting chimney cap to keep animals out (ask me how I know) and to protect against water damage. Water-loving tree species (ex: willow, cottonwood, and sycamore) are not dangerous to burn, but do not produce enough heat to warrant the effort.

View fullsize

[click to enlarge]

View fullsize

Example of a Fireplace Inspection Form

CUTTING LOGS

Before cutting any logs, measure your stove’s opening to determine the size of your chainsaw cuts. Cuts that are too short wastes effort and time. You also don’t want to deal with the frustration of having an oversized piece of firewood that won’t fit through the door no matter how hard you try to force it or no matter how many times you rotate it. Ask me how I know… If you care about your back and chainsaw chain, you can cut your firewood on stacked logs or palettes for better work positioning. I strongly advise using a modern chainsaw with all safety features in place. Below is a video we’ve made on chainsaw maintenance and safety!

When using a chainsaw, I recommend staying safe and wearing personal protective equipment (PPE) such as ankle-high boots, chainsaw pants or chaps, hearing protection, and eye protection. If you want to complete the arborist look, you can also wear a helmet and hi-vis t-shirt too!  Cut out and discard any imperfections in the wood such as knots, bends, or flaws. These will be hard to split and may not be worth your time and energy.

SPLITTING LOGS (BY HAND) 

Splitting logs can be physically strenuous labor complete with bends, lifts, and cardiovascular stress. Be honest about your fitness and pace yourself! On the flip side, pre-cut and pre-split wood can be purchased relatively easily. It's far cheaper than a heart attack! When splitting logs, always wear ear and eye protection. Split logs on a large, flat stump or trunk section in an open space. Use a splitting maul, not an axe, and various metal splitting wedges. Again, make life easy and don't worry about waste - if a log is difficult to split, set it aside, and knock out easier pieces.

One important detail to consider about firewood once you have your split logs is to not move it! Firewood can contain insects and disease that could spread and harm another tree population. One harmful example is how emerald ash borer was first detected in the US around 2002 and wiped out, with no exaggeration, millions of ash trees across North America. The general accepted theory as to how emerald ash borer ended up in the US was through wood in a shipping crate that arrived from China. All of this to say, the exact distance varies based on county, state, and country, but the general recommendation is to burn wood within 10 miles of where it was purchased or from where the wood was split. For more information, DontMoveFirewood.org is a good resource! (not sponsored, just want to spread the message!)

STACKING

Stacking can surprisingly be another physically strenuous task, especially if you rush or try to stack too many logs at a time. Please pace yourself accordingly! When choosing a location, select a space elevated from the bare ground that can also be protected from rain and other weather. Leave a gap large enough to walk through between your woodpile and structures to make logs more accessible. More importantly, this will provide a buffer zone for insects, rodents, and wood decaying organisms between the stack and your house, shed, etc.

When stacking, place the flat side down. Round sides can roll, making the entire stack unstable. Build up corners and outside edges first - gaps in the middle can be filled as needed with less precision. Orient wedge-shaped logs inwards. Shifts or slides will fall harmlessly to the center instead of the whole stack toppling over.

View fullsize

[click to enlarge & more info]

View fullsize

[click to enlarge]

BURNING

Before burning, have an evacuation plan ready that includes calling 9-1-1 in the event of an emergency. When it comes time to burn your firewood,  build up heat little by little. You can first ignite paper and work your way up to cardboard, then kindling, and eventually small logs. Cardboard doesn't burn hot enough to ignite full-sized logs. Burn as hot as possible to avoid buildup in the chimney. Remove ashes to a metal container daily. Wood ashes can increase a soil’s pH, so I would not recommend adding them to a mulch or compost bed unless you know that the pH level is below its optimal range for the trees or plants. Regularly inspect the interior and exterior of the room containing the chimney/stove.

Whether you're a veteran or a newbie, cutting and burning firewood is a physically demanding process with life and property threatening consequences. While the process should be respected with the proper safety procedures, it does not need to be intimidating. For those curious, Russell Tree Experts does not produce or sell firewood, but we do offer local, log delivery for you to process yourself! Safe and happy splitting my friends, those blisters will callus soon enough!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES

Sincerely,

Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA certified arborist. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.

Mulch Volcanoes & The Hidden Dangers

By Enrique Arayata
October 24, 2024

The kwanzan cherry tree in question.

Recently, I was talking to one of my neighbors about typical home and outdoor activities, which sparked the conversation about the kwanzan cherry tree in my front yard. He let me know that it was mulched incorrectly, which caught me off-guard seeing as I took mulching advice from my coworkers Lindsey, an ISA Certified Arborist®, and TJ, an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist®. I kept an open mind and asked him what was wrong and he informed me that it’s best to form a volcano-like shape up towards the trunk of the tree so that way the tree will absorb more water and to increase curb appeal. For him, since it looks more intentional and less natural, it shows that someone is caring for the tree. I communicated to him that multiple coworkers as well as the Arborists’ Certification Study Guide have conflicting information. He said he’s been doing it this way for decades and everything has been fine, completely ignoring the fact that his 50-60 foot tall sugar maple tree was removed due to heavy decay at the base of the tree. We agreed to disagree and went on with our days. Now, I’m not saying mulch volcanoes will cause your tree to decay and be removed, but I am saying that it is detrimental to a tree’s health and that this method of mulching needs to be addressed, stopped, and changed.

A mulch volcano. Note the lack of an exposed trunk flare and the mulch exceeding the height of the surrounding grade.

So what is a mulch volcano? A mulch volcano, also sometimes known as a mulch mound, mulch pyramid, or a mulch shield, is a circular volcano-shaped pile of mulch above ground level formed up to the trunk of a tree. Mulch volcanoes are created with good intention as tree mulching adds nutrients to the soil, aids in water retention, helps the tree outcompete other plants for resources, protects the tree from trunk damage by lawn mowers and string trimmers, minimizes soil compaction, and increases curb appeal. However, all of the aforementioned benefits apply only to properly mulched trees and mulch volcanoes are an improper form of mulching that eliminates most of these benefits. Most of the time, the person applying mulch to the tree does not even know about this incorrect practice. So if you have ever created a mulch volcano, know that I am not upset or mad. My goal is to educate and discuss the harms of mulch volcanoes and the proper ways to mulch a tree.

An example of stem girdling roots.

Limited Oxygen and Stem Girdling Roots

Mulch volcanoes bury the roots of a tree and simulate it being planted too deeply. This limits the availability of oxygen and water which can cause stem girdling roots, roots that wrap around the trunk of the tree in search of oxygen and nutrients and inevitably “choke” the tree. Stem girdling roots can lead to dieback, stunted growth, and delayed or shrunken leaves popping out in the spring. This can be treated via root collar excavation.

Limited Water

For a mulch volcano with compacted mulch, less water is actually retained and runs off to the bottom perimeter of the mulch. This results in less water availability for the tree as it may run off elsewhere on the property or be absorbed by grass and other plants instead of by the tree.

Excess Water and Bacteria

For better or for worse, mulch is great at retaining water. In the case of mulch volcanoes with porous mulch, this is bad because water can sit and dampen the trunk. Sitting water is bad for a tree because it can carry bacteria that can lead to disease.

Soil pH

Overmulching in this fashion may also limit nitrogen availability and detrimentally alter the soil’s pH. A change in pH outside the ideal range for the tree can lead to nutrient deficiency, chlorosis, stunted growth, defoliation, dieback, or even worse, the death of a tree.

Another mulch volcano. Note the tip dieback on the right side that could be a result of the mulch volcano. An in-depth inspection would be needed for confirmation.

Rodents

When mulch is piled high, it may be enticing to rodents as a form of shelter and concealment. They have also been observed to feed on the lower stems and bark of trees, leaving open wounds that could invite decay, disease, and pests. 

Aesthetics

Mulch volcanoes can make a trained eye who knows proper mulching practices cringe similar to nails on a chalkboard. They convey that the tree manager or mulch installer may be unaware of the best care for the tree. Depending on who you ask, mulch volcanoes are subjectively an eyesore and look goofy or out of place.

A tree mulch ring 12 feet in diameter.

Proper Tree Mulching

So how do you properly mulch a tree? Apply a level 2 to 4 inch deep layer of mulch at least 6 feet in diameter or up to the canopy drip line of a medium-to-larged sized tree. The exact size will depend on your preference or landscape limitations. Keep the root flare exposed and not in direct contact with any mulch. If water runoff is a concern, a small 1 inch tall, wall-like berm can be formed by hand around the perimeter of the mulch to encourage water to remain inside of the mulch. Linked below is my previously written Arbor Ed article on how to properly mulch a tree. It contains a video and even additional tips on how to create a crisp edge for enhanced visual appeal! I strongly encourage you to check it out. You can even follow along with the video when mulching your own tree! For those in central Ohio looking for other tree care needs, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree inspection and service quote!

Additional Arbor Ed Articles

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Coordinator, Russell Tree Experts

In his free time, Enrique enjoys working out, hanging out with his girlfriend, video production and photography, cars, technology, cooking, and watching new movies and YouTube videos. He has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University, and is an FAA Certified Remote Pilot.

Why Do We Need Bats?

By Michelle Burden & Nicole Hoffman
October 17, 2024​

Do you ever wonder why some creatures were placed on the Earth such as snakes, spiders and the like? One such creature that comes to mind is the bat. While they are not appealing to most of us, bats serve a purpose on this planet and deserve respect as they play a vital role in our ecosystem.

Did you know there are over 1200 kinds of bats across the globe? About 13 to 15 species of them reside right here in the Buckeye state. Unfortunately, four of these bat species, also known as flittermice for their fluttering wings, are on Ohio’s endangered species list. Let’s learn a bit more about these endangered bat types in Ohio, how they are helpful to us, and what we can do to save these nocturnal creatures so precious to our planet.

• Tricolored Bat - Known for their mixed dark and light coloring. These endangered bats prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. You may find them in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters (that’s a good thing).

• Northern Long-Eared Bat - Known by their long-pointed ears. Similar to the tricolored bat, they also prefer to travel solo or in very small groups. Similarly, they are also found in brush piles, your chimney, or even under your shutters!

• Indiana Bat - Was first found in southern Indiana’s Wyandotte Cave in the late 1920s and is distinguished by the keel (a flap of skin) on the calcar (the spur off the ankle). This bat enjoys taking up residence in pastures, corn fields, and wooded areas in the buckeye state as well as Indiana.

• Little Brown Bat - Weighs in at less than an ounce, has mouse-like ears, and long hairs on its feet. This tiny flying mammal can also be found in tree hollows and wood piles.  

The flittermouse, AKA the bat, is the major pollinator for over 530 types of flowering plants. With their unique ability to fly farther than the average insect and with their skin coating, bats make excellent pollinators. As they lap up the nectar from a flower, pollen sticks to their coat. Then when they visit the next flower for a drink, the pollen falls onto said flower. The bulsa tree population depends highly on the bat pollination process. Bulsa is the world’s lightest wood tree and is used for aircraft construction and surfboards since bulsa wood also floats.

Without these amazing, flying mammals, we would not have agave - a natural sugar alternative used to sweeten foods and used in medicines to fight diseases like cancer. Additionally, agave is also the main ingredient in tequila.

Bats also play a major role in pest control. In the U.S. alone, they eat enough pests to save more than $1 billion annually in pesticide costs and crop damage. As we are discovering the harmful effects of pesticides, we should welcome these creatures as they naturally combat the pest battle.

Why are these nocturnal insect eaters becoming endangered? As the human population and businesses grow, so also does our need for roads, buildings, and housing developments. With this human growth and development, the bats are losing their habitats.

Bats are also becoming endangered due to white-nose syndrome; a fungus that thrives in cold humid conditions of caves and mines where bats often dwell in wintertime. Discovered in 2006, this fungus grows on the muzzles, ears, and wings, and has claimed the lives of over five million bats.

During the winter, bats will either migrate south for warmer weather and a more plentiful food source, or hibernate in places such as caves, mines, or rock crevices to minimize energy expenditure. In Ohio, this will typically take place from approximately October 1st to March 31st. It is during this window that it is safer for certain tree work projects to be completed. Such examples are larger scale, heavier-wooded areas where bats are likely or known to be located. A residential or developed area is typically safe to perform tree work year-round since these are unpreferable and unlikely conditions for bats to call their home. Surveys can be performed, or in some cases are required, to determine if bats are present. These precautions are done to minimize disturbance for these endangered bats.

So what can we do to protect the flittermouse?

• Develop a natural habitat around your home if there is a confirmed bat sighting. In areas where it is safe to do so, leave dead and dying trees in their place. These trees can make great roosting sites for bats.

• Install a bat box 10 to 20 feet above ground and create a garden with flowering plants nearby. Place the bat box in an area that will get six to eight hours of direct sunlight primarily in the morning. Bats will take up residence and keep those pests away as your garden grows.

• Decrease the amount of light in your lawn area as too much light can disrupt bat behavior. Turn down the lights and watch the bat acrobatics as they munch on up to as 3,000 insects per night.

Every creature has a purpose on Earth and the bat is no exception. Let’s do all we can to help them as they continue to help us!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Sincerely,

Michelle Burden I Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Michelle joined Russell Tree Experts in 2019. Fall is her favorite time of the year! When she is not working she enjoy spending time with family and friends.

Nicole Hoffman I Project Accountant, Russell Tree Experts

Nicole joined Russell Tree Experts in 2023! Her favorite tree is the sugar maple! She is drawn to the tree industry because of the awesome people. Outside of work, you can find her enjoying quality family time or eating her favorite food: Mexican food!

The Root of Many Plant Problems in Central Ohio: Soil pH

By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist
January 16, 2025​

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/16/25 from its original publish date of 4/24/24.]

You’ve probably heard the term pH. You may even think “I know this one - it means something is either acidic, neutral, or alkaline”, and that wouldn’t be wrong. But what does that mean and why does it matter? What determines the pH of soil, water, or even the human body? Like the periodic table of elements, pH may be something that reminds you of high school chemistry class, something you’ve filed away under the “when am I ever going to use this?” section of your brain, long ago forgotten and collecting dust ever since it was put there. While pH is far from being an endorphin-producing topic, it does significantly influence plant growth and overall health in your landscape. Let’s discuss the role that soil pH plays in nutrient availability, soil chemistry, and even microorganism activity, and why it matters for your plants.

pH and How It’s Influenced

pH stands for “potential of hydrogen”, and is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, ranging from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. A value below 7 is considered acidic while a value above 7 is considered alkaline (or basic). This scale represents the concentration of hydrogen ions present, with acidic solutions having a greater number of ions and alkaline solutions having fewer ions. In soils, that concentration of hydrogen ions is influenced by things such as the parent rock material that originally formed the soil, human activity, climate, and the presence or lack of organic matter. In turn, the resulting pH will influence the availability of nutrients essential for plant growth, microbial activity that helps with nutrient absorption, and soil chemistry that influences the breakdown of soil particles into more usable forms. Of the influencing factors mentioned above, parent rock material and the presence or lack of organic matter often go hand in hand and are the most significant influencers in our central Ohio landscapes. Central Ohio largely consists of limestone bedrock, which naturally has a higher pH than what’s preferable for most plants. So you might ask “Well, how is it then that any plants can be healthy and thrive in central Ohio?”. The answer is organic matter. In an undisturbed, natural environment like the forest, years and years of organic matter have formed on top of the infamous “Ohio clay” subsoil that we encounter in our backyards. The source of this organic matter comes from falling leaves, dead branches and trees, and dying organisms just to name a few, that collect on the forest floor year after year, decade after decade. These are all things we tend to remove from our landscapes to keep them tidy, which results in a lack of organic matter formation over time. For more on how to address this topic, check out our Arbor Ed article “Leave those Leaves!”

Nutrient Availability

Chlorosis in a pin oak tree in Bexley, Ohio

pH influences the availability of essential nutrients in the soil by changing their level of solubility. This simply means that pH will determine whether or not these nutrients are in a form that can be absorbed by the tiny roots and roots hairs of plants. Most plants will prefer growing in soil with a pH range between 6-7, slightly acidic to neutral. When the pH is out of its optimal range for a particular plant (generally too high in central Ohio), the plant’s growth may slow, it may lose overall health and vigor, or conditions like chlorosis can develop because that plant isn’t getting the nutrients it needs to carry out essential functions for growth. Chlorosis, or yellowing of leaf tissue, is a very common condition in central Ohio and can be seen most often with trees like pin oak, red maple, white pine, and river birch. It’s interesting to note that these are trees that are either native to Ohio or an adjacent region. In their natural habitats where organic matter is abundant, soil pH is lower and nutrients are readily available for uptake. The parent material, derived from limestone and having higher pH levels, does not affect the trees since the absorbing roots are largely growing in the organic layer above it. In our backyards however, carpeted with lawn but cleared annually of leaves, higher pH levels can quickly cause issues even with otherwise healthy trees.

Chart showing availability of essential elements at various pH levels

Microbial Activity

pH affects the activity of microorganisms in the soil. These microorganisms are essential for plant health, helping plants to absorb certain nutrients, or aiding in the breakdown of organic matter into available forms for your plants. Certain fungi, bacteria, or insects that benefit a particular plant will naturally thrive in the same pH that is ideal for that plant. Encouraging the proper pH for your plants in turn helps to foster a healthier population of these important helpers in the soil. In the same way that our own bodies are influenced by the health of our gut bacteria, plants rely on microbial activity in the soil. Without it, they can struggle to carry out essential functions for proper growth and overall health.

Soil Chemistry

Similar to nutrient availability, pH can affect the chemistry of the soil and determine whether or not the available nutrients will be absorbed by roots. It also influences the composition of the soil, helping certain minerals to break down into smaller molecules, ultimately affecting the charge of soil particles and the ability for the soil to hold on to essential elements that could otherwise be removed from the soil. A good example of this would be a soil’s ability to retain certain nutrients by preventing them from getting washed out of the soil by irrigation or rainfall. Acidic soils tend to be better at retaining more of these charged nutrients. It's no coincidence then that most plants prefer acidic or slightly acidic soils, as the lower pH makes those soils richer in nutrients and more “user friendly” for plants.

 ~

Soil pH plays a significant role in the overall health of trees, shrubs, and other plants in our landscape. A little bit of knowledge can go a long way in helping to understand the unique issues you may have in your central Ohio landscape. Below is a list of a few things you can consider in determining what’s best for your yard.

• Have a soil sample from your yard submitted for analysis to help determine if there is a pH issue or nutrient deficiency.

• If you know that you have higher pH levels, consider planting trees and shrubs that are more tolerant of alkaline soils.

• Try incorporating more organic matter into your soil by allowing leaves to decompose in landscape beds over the winter, and consider enlarging groundcover or mulch beds around trees (less lawn)

• Have root zone invigoration work done for trees that are struggling with nutrient deficiencies and/or soil compaction.

• Apply pH lowering products to landscape beds with particularly sensitive trees or shrubs (note that this is something that generally needs done annually, as permanently lowering the pH of soil with additives is next to impossible).  

As always, one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists® are happy to provide a free tree quote by giving us a call at (614) 895-7000 or by visiting RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote

Additional Tree Preservation Articles!

Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Walter became an ISA certified arborist in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.

Tree Work in the Winter?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2025

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/25 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]

“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.

Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.

Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.

Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.

Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.

With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.

One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!

As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!

When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?

Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!

Two examples of trees with codominant stems

You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant. 

Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau

To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.

So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years. 

However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:

End-Weight Reductions

• Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.

Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree.

Cabling Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.

A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio.

Through-Brace Support System

• Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.

Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted.

Propping Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.

A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina.

All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.

3 Knots for Your Backyard!

What uses come to mind when you think of knot-tying? Putting up a rope swing, securing a load in a truck bed, or installing a makeshift fence around the garden perhaps?

Rope handling and knot-tying may be overlooked by many today as an antiquated skill lost to history. When questioned, most people may only think about knot-tying and rope handling as a badge that is to be awarded to young Boy or Girl Scouts. 

Or, if you are an avid history aficionado like myself, knot-tying may even conjure up images in your mind of the seafaring sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The age of sail was one of the pinnacles of human technology with navigating the oceans on massive wooden ships. Skilled crews used miles of rigging consisting of ropes and knots to help steer the large vessel.

The rigging for a British ship-of-the-line.

All of these scenarios are just a brief glimpse into how interwoven human history is with knot-tying and the use of rope. Some historians even believe that knot-tying and rope handling is a technology older than the wheel. It is a relationship as old as recorded history itself! 

In a world full of technological advancements and mechanical wonders, you won’t be able to find a replacement for good knot know-how and rope handling. Just think of some of the industries we wouldn’t have without them: rope access, technical rescue, arboriculture, commercial trucking and shipping, commercial fishing, performing arts, the list goes on and on!

Let’s take a look at three knots that you may find useful in your own backyard or around the house. I will let the videos speak for themselves on how to tie the knot, but I will include some common uses down below!

Figure Eight Stopper Knot

The figure eight stopper knot is a relatively easy knot to tie and functions as the name implies. Tying this knot on the end of a rope may prevent it from slipping out of your hand or falling out of your reach. The figure eight knot is the building block of a whole range of more knots relating to or requiring the figure eight knot!

Tying a number of these knots about a foot apart from each other on an anchored rope will give your kids a simple way to climb a rope. Using a short section of 2x6 wood with two equally spaced holes, two equally-long pieces of rope, and two figure eight stopper knots, you can have yourself an affordable rope swing!

But how do we anchor our rope swing?

Bowline Knot

This particular knot forms a secured loop at the end of a rope that can be used to attach the rope to a suitable anchor. Commonly referred to as the “king of knots”, this knot is also the building block of a whole family of bowline-related knots. It may be more difficult to tie than our figure eight stopper knot, but this is a very appropriate knot to use for anchoring our rope swing as well as anchoring a rope to a truck bed or trailer when you are trying to secure a load,

Chain Sinnet (Daisy Chain)

This knot is used primarily for shortening or storing a longer rope and having quick access to all of its length, without the hassle of coiling or tangled, unwanted knots! I use this knot extensively to store longer extension cords in my garage so that I can plug them in and then transport them to where I need them on my property without having to deal with a tangled, jumbled up mess.

BONUS Knot: Slipknot

If you have mastered the chain sinnet, then you may have learned a fourth knot without even realizing it! The chain sinnet is started by tying a Slipknot. We have our arborists first learn this knot when they begin working at Russell Tree Experts. It is an easy, quick knot to learn and allows you to add a loop anywhere along the rope. To retain the loop in the rope, be sure to clip a carabiner or some sort of equipment to the loop. We use this knot daily to send equipment into a tree’s crown. You may find a use for it such as when adjusting the height of a hammock!

I hope this article has inspired you to look into how tying knots can improve your day-to-day activities around the house. Cheers to the craft of knot-tying!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob joined RTE in 2015 and has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees recreationally (in addition to professionally) and spending lots of time with his family.

Meet Mitch Lippencott!

Dear Reader,

I’m proud and excited to announce the newest member of our regional management team, Mitch Lippencott. Mitch is someone I always enjoy working and sharing tree talk with. If you are fortunate enough to reside in the Grandview, Franklinton, Hilliard, Dublin or Plain City/Marysville areas, Mitch will be your new Russell Tree Experts representative!

Mitch has more than 20 years experience in the green industry. His background is diverse - before Russell Tree Experts, Mitch worked for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and performed municipal tree work for two different communities. His experience gives him a wide spectrum of knowledge in horticulture and tree care.

Mitch joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 as a ground worker and progressed quickly to plant health care and production crew leader before joining our management team. Mitch is an Ohio State graduate, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. He is preparing to take the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® exam this winter. We wish him well in this new position and all endeavors!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010

Magnolia Scale: They're Back!

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
June 20, 2024​

Hello! We have decided to revisit the topic of magnolia scale and add more information to this previously published article as we are in the middle of a larger magnolia scale infestation compared to last year (2023).

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Please note: This article was originally published on 8/9/2023 and was revised and republished on 6/20/2024.

Is your magnolia tree turning black? Is it attracting ants, flies, bees and wasps? Is there a sticky substance covering the leaves and everything under the plant? If you look closely, you will also see white blotches on the twigs throughout the tree.

This is an invasion of magnolia scale like we have not seen in several years. They happen to thrive in warm summers with abundant moisture. The population is building and is very apparent this year.

The insect overwinters on twigs and is inconspicuous to the untrained eye until it starts feeding and producing honeydew. Honeydew is the very sweet, sticky substance secreted by the insect that in turn coats the leaves and anything under the plant. This is what attracts other insects to the plant. Eventually the insect covers itself with a waxy coating that protects it while feeding. These are the white blotches we are now seeing on the plants starting early summer through August.

Nymphs emerging from a recently plucked adult Magnolia Scale

The juvenile stage of magnolia scale emerges from these waxy coatings (the adults) in mid to late August through September as crawlers. This is when scale are most vulnerable to insecticides and we attempt to control their population. We typically recommend 2 to 3 topical insecticide sprays during this period spaced a couple weeks apart for the best control of the insect due to the extended emergence. During seasons with larger infestations, it is unlikely that insecticide sprays will completely eliminate this insect. The overall goal of plant healthcare is to keep the population at a threshold that minimizes damage and maintains aesthetics of the host tree.

If the tree’s owner is concerned about the population of magnolia scale before the appropriate window for insecticide applications is open, there are a few DIY options that can be done. First, the insects can be scrubbed off from branches and leaves in June and July. This is when the adults are visible before the hatch begins. You could also prune out heavily infested Interior branches to help reduce numbers. Be sure to completely dispose of any pruned branches as the insect will still hatch. Spraying the trees with a medium pressure garden hose can also eliminate some insects as well as reduce the honeydew on the plants.

The insects feed by sucking sap out of the tree. If left untreated the scale population can grow to levels that will cause decline and eventual death in your tree.

Another issue with Magnolia scale is the occurrence of sooty mold which is a byproduct of the honeydew produced by the scale. It is a black fungal growth which is what most people notice first. Although this generally does not harm the tree, it is very unsightly.

In closing, if you have a magnolia in the landscape, give us a call and we will dispatch a certified arborist to your property to come out and complete an evaluation of the tree and make recommendations for the best management strategy. Timing is everything.

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Plant Native – But why?

We all hear that incorporating more native species into the landscape is beneficial; but do we know why? Native plants in the landscape are important because all of the plants’ neighbors, including animals and insects, have all evolved together to create a cozy, co-existing ecosystem. Pollinators also thrive in native plant landscapes because they have evolved to pollinate those plants, and they are a good food source and shelter for our pollinator friends. Native plants also require less maintenance than non-native species and therefore have easier upkeep in your gardens. Even if you are unwilling to go 100% native, it’s generally good practice to try and aim for 70% native species. And be sure to check with your local arborists and horticulturists to verify if a particular species is not invasive if you choose a non-native plant.

Did you know that a landscaped area can have layers? The uppermost layer is referred to as the canopy; this encompasses all of your large woody plants such as the Shagbark Hickory and the Northern Red Oak. After the canopy, you have the understory; this includes slightly smaller woody plants, often providing delicious food for consumption to wildlife, such as the Pawpaw and Eastern Redbud. Then you get to the shrub layer which is even smaller woody plants such as Sweetshrub, Oakleaf Hydrangea, and Spicebush. They are also a good source of food for native species of wildlife.

At the very bottom layer of the landscape, you get into all of the herbaceous perennials; these include ferns, grasses, spring ephemerals, and other perennials with various blooming times throughout the growing season. Listed are a few of my favorites:

• Virginia Bluebells (early bloom, shade, spring ephemeral)

• Solomon’s Seal (spring bloom, shade, perennial)

• Wild Blue Phlox (spring bloom, partial shade, perennial)

• Joe Pye Weed (summer bloom, full sun, perennial)

• Cardinal Flower (summer bloom, full sun, perennial)

• New England Aster (fall bloom, full sun, perennial)

• Northern Maiden Hair Fern (shade, perennial/fern)

• Little Bluestem (full sun, perennial/grass)

This year I had the opportunity to start my native garden from scratch! So hopefully I’ll have an update for you all next year when everything is beautifully in bloom. Until then, plant as many native species as you can so we can help our pollinator friends thrive and provide food and homes to other wildlife dependent on the natural ecosystem in your own yard.

Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.

Why is Tree Pruning Important?

Dear Reader,

Tree care comes in many forms: insect and disease management, pruning, fertilization, cabling, lightning protection, and removals. Today I would like to talk about the importance of tree pruning and the various reasons why a tree may need to be pruned.

ISA Certified Arborist Andy Bartram making a tree pruning cut!

Tree pruning is the selective removal of branches from a tree with the general goal of improving the overall quality of the tree, whether it be for safety, health, structure, fruit and flower production, aesthetic appearance, and more. Some may view pruning as unnecessary as there are hundreds and thousands of beautiful, healthy, and unpruned trees out in the world that have grown successfully without human intervention. Although this is true, there are also many trees out in nature that are dead, dying, or unpleasant to look at. A native volunteer tree out in nature grew naturally from one of hundreds of seeds and competed with all the surrounding trees for resources. They are tough and independent and do not need any human assistance. However, the same cannot be said for a single tree or sapling planted by a human in a site where that tree might not have ever grown there naturally. These human planted trees often need extra care like watering, mulching, and fertilization in order for them to be strong and healthy.

Planting a tree sapling for our TREE FOR A TREE® program.

“Pruning” differs from “trimming” as pruning prioritizes a tree’s health and structure. Only the necessary limbs are removed and aesthetic appearance is a byproduct. With “trimming”, plants, shrubs, hedges, and trees are trimmed with the goal of improving their appearance. Depending on the individual trimmer, health and structure may be sacrificed in order to attain a certain look.

Andrew Schneider making a tree pruning cut!

A tree may need to be immediately pruned if it poses a safety concern. If there is a large or dead limb overhanging something significant such as a house, car, sidewalk, or valuable lawn decoration, that limb may need to be removed as it could be hazardous during a storm.

ISA Certified Arborist Mac McGuire pruning a dead limb overhanging a busy road.

If there are any limbs with clearance issues, it may also need to be removed. This applies to limbs that are touching any house siding or utility lines or any low hanging limbs that impede lawn activities or pulling into a driveway.

Another important aspect of tree pruning is for health and structural reasons. A tree’s overall health and structure will increase by removing any dead, dying, damaged, disease-infected, codominant, or crossing limbs. Removal of these limbs promotes new growth and increased flower and fruit production. When a tree is pruned, nearby trees, shrubs, plants, and grass can also benefit by receiving more resources like sun, water, and air. These additional resources can improve aesthetic appearance and promote new growth. If the pruned tree was also close to a window you may even have a better view from inside your house or more sunlight coming in during the day!

Unruly lilac in need of pruning.

As mentioned earlier, tree pruning can improve aesthetic appearance. Pruning does not focus on looks but removing dead, dying, broken, weak in structure, or clearance-issue limbs generally makes trees look neater, cleaner, and overall better. The pruned tree may not have a specific shape desired by an individual, but it will be healthier and safer. Another small factor to potentially consider is property value. An unmaintained tree can look unpleasant, unruly, and unsafe which can hurt the value of a property. When it comes time to sell, having a beautiful, healthy, and pruned tree can potentially increase property value, making it an easy worthwhile investment!

So now that you have read about the various reasons for tree pruning, you may be wondering when a tree should be pruned, how often should a tree be pruned, or how much of a tree should be pruned? The short answer is that it depends. Some trees are best pruned during a specific season and some may have no preference. For example, oak trees are not recommended for pruning from roughly April to October due to the risk of oak wilt. A sugar maple can generally be pruned any time of the year, but it is recommended that you prune a sugar maple during the summer rather than winter to avoid sap leakage from pruning wounds, which does not pose any significant problem to the tree’s health. 

Multiple water sprouts shooting straight up from a larger branch due to stress.

In terms of frequency, younger trees may need to be pruned every two to three years while more mature trees may need to be pruned every three to five years. The specific timing can fluctuate and vary based on planting site, climate conditions, potential insect and disease issues, and more. In terms of how much to prune, there should be no specific goal. Only remove the necessary branches. However, a general guideline is that no more than 25% of a canopy should be removed at one time as the tree may “go into shock” and grow watersprouts in an attempt to replace the stored energy lost from the removed branches.

If you decide to have your tree pruned, two incorrect methods of pruning that Russell Tree Experts and I strongly advise against are tree topping and lion’s tailing. Tree topping is pruning to create a rounded canopy that often requires cutting through a stem at an improper location. Lion’s tailing is the removal of many, if not all, secondary or tertiary branches from the interior of the crown, leaving most of the foliage at the edge or top of a canopy. Although the look of both of these tree pruning methods may be desired by a specific individual, they do not improve the overall health or quality of a tree and can actually shorten its lifespan and promote decay.

Examples of improper tree pruning: Tree topping (left) and lion’s tailing (right)

Tree pruning is a very large and vast subject with much to cover. Someone could write a novel about tree pruning and still not cover every single detail. The goal of this article was to discuss the many reasons for tree pruning, not necessarily to teach someone how to become a tree pruning expert. However, we do have an article and a video on the 3 cut method that will be linked down below for anyone interested in learning how to safely and effectively remove a limb! A few additional tree pruning-related articles will be linked down below as well.

Interested in Pruning Your Own Tree?

Check out these other Arbor Ed articles!

The Value of Trees in the Urban Landscape By Chris Gill: https://www.russelltreeexperts.com/arbor-ed/2018/9/18/the-value-of-trees-in-the-urban-landscape?rq=tree%20pruning

Preventing Tree & Property Storm Damage By Chris Gill: https://www.russelltreeexperts.com/arbor-ed/2018/8/14/storm-damage?rq=tree%20pruning

Where’s the Fruit? By Krista Harris: https://www.russelltreeexperts.com/arbor-ed/2021/2/1/wheres-the-fruit?rq=tree%20pruning

Stop! Don’t Top! By Chris Gill: https://www.russelltreeexperts.com/arbor-ed/2018/10/9/stop-dont-top?rq=tree%20pruning

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Coordinator, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is a fourth year student at The Ohio State University majoring in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and photography. In his free time, he enjoys fitness, video games, technology, cars, videography, photography, and cooking.