Russell Tree Experts — Arbor Ed™

Tree Tips

The Year of the Ugly Boxwood

Dear Reader, 
My good friend and arborist colleague Cat Baumgartner wrote the below article for the Inniswood Garden Society’s quarterly member newsletter (known as The Image). As soon as I read it, I knew that I wanted to share it with all our readers. Cat does a thorough job of describing the most serious problems we have had with boxwood this year and she explains them well and in simple terms. She has generously agreed to let us republish it. Photos within the body of Cat’s article are courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County.
- TJ Nagel, Russell Tree Experts

The Year of The
Ugly Boxwood

by cat Baumgartner, Oakland Nursery

I don’t have a simple answer. Or there are multiple answers, and your boxwood might have one, or several of the problems at once.

I’ll go over the likely suspects for this year- including winter damage, or ‘winter burn’, Boxwood Leafminer, Volutella Blight, and THE Boxwood Blight.

I’ll start with winter burn. Boxwood store a lot of their energy in their leaves through the winter. When we get extreme cold and wind in the winter, the leaves will lose more moisture. If the ground is frozen or dry (or worse, both), the leaves lose moisture faster than the roots can replace it, and we get the ‘burn’, where they turn a straw color and die, staying attached to the stem. It wasn’t noticeable until early spring, because evergreens have a delayed reaction to stress. It’s why we can cut down trees for Christmas and they don’t immediately turn brown, often lasting months. We did have greater than normal rainfall last year, but the three months leading up to late December were on the dry side. So, the ground was dry leading up to the extreme cold event that hit in late December creating a Double Whammy. There was a lot more winter burn this spring than I’ve seen in decades. It looks like straw-colored sections in the shrubs, often in a random pattern.

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Next, there are different blights out there that can affect boxwood. ‘Blight’ is a general term for a plant disease, typically caused by a type of fungus. Most of them are less common and less damaging than the blight striking fear in the hearts of gardeners that is Calonectria pseudonaviculata, called simply “Boxwood Blight”. There have been some isolated cases in the Greater Columbus area. The main symptom though is defoliation. You’ll have green leaves, then they’ll start looking funny, and rapidly progress and fall off the stem. In a matter of weeks, you can go from a healthy-looking plant to one with sections with completely naked stems. Definitive identification requires lab testing. Other blights can show similar symptoms, but since some are more treatable, confirming which type of blight your boxwood might have is recommended before removing plants. If you do have “Boxwood Blight,” replanting with more boxwood is not recommended, so confirmation of what kind of blight you have will also tell you what you can plant in that spot. Most of the damage we’ve been seeing is NOT “Boxwood Blight.”

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Volutella Blight or Pseudonectria Canker (Pseudonectria buxi) can be damaging but is not necessarily a death sentence often just affecting individual stems and not whole portions of the plant. Symptoms can be seen if the stem is sliced into, showing dark brown streaking just under the bark. Most twigs infected with Volutella blight will turn straw colored and die. In most cases dead stems from Volutella canker can be easily pruned out and the remaining portions of the boxwood will fill in slowly over time. 

This year we also had frost damage in May. If leaf buds are still tight, frost is not a problem. If the new leaves have emerged, but have ‘hardened off’, it is also not a problem. But if the new growth is timed so that it is new, fresh and tender, and then we have a late freeze, the new growth is damaged, turns that sad straw color, and is aesthetically at least, a problem. A healthy shrub can put out another round of growth, and it is not a long-term problem. Trimming off the burnt new growth is all that needs doing.

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Boxwood Leafminer, an insect pest, is an ongoing problem. The damage from leaf miner is more generalized, an ‘all-over’ bad look rather than the chunky sections dying back. The adults lay eggs in the new growth in mid-spring, and as the larval stage hatches and begins to feed on the interior tissues, the leaves start looking bad, often having a blistered or bubbled effect, usually easier to see from the bottom of the leaf.   

Preventative sprays can thwart adult leafminers from laying eggs in the new growth, but need to be applied as you see the new growth. Systemics applied in the Fall or Spring can also provide control but know that boxwoods are insect pollinated. 

If you don’t have Boxwood blight, you have two options. Cut out the dead branches and let the plants regrow which may take three years or more to totally restore, in good condition, or replace the plants.


A Final Note…

Since Cat wrote her article, we have had several boxwood shrubs test positive for yet another disease, Colletotrichum theobromicola (also referred to as boxwood dieback). This is a new disease for central Ohio and symptoms look similar to other blight diseases with the random dieback of twigs and straw-colored foliage. However, in addition to twig dieback, the pathogen also causes leaf spots that appear white in the center surrounded by dark brown margins as well as a bright black discoloration just beneath the bark along the twigs. The jury is still out on the best way to attempt to manage this disease but for now, good cultural practices such as removing symptomatic plants and sterilizing pruning tools between pruning different plants are the best-known strategies. Fungicides might also be helpful, but efficacy has not been determined. Laboratory testing should be used to confirm boxwood dieback because it can easily be misdiagnosed as other blight diseases. 

As we continue to have more problems in the landscape with boxwood, it may be time to consider alternative plants that can achieve a similar function. Stay tuned for my boxwood replacement article later this Fall.

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

The Oak Wilt Defense

The fall season is approaching, and cooler weather is hopefully just right around the corner. With changing temperatures, all our trees are going to be going through a change as well. As we enter the dormant season, we will be gifted with…

Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!

When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?

Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!

Two examples of trees with codominant stems

You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant. 

Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau

To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.

So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years. 

However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:

End-Weight Reductions

  • Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.

Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree.

Cabling Support System

  • Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.

A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio.

Through-Brace Support System

  • Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.

Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted.

Propping Support System

  • Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.

A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina.

All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.

3 Knots for Your Backyard!

What uses come to mind when you think of knot-tying? Putting up a rope swing, securing a load in a truck bed, or installing a makeshift fence around the garden perhaps?

Rope handling and knot-tying may be overlooked by many today as an antiquated skill lost to history. When questioned, most people may only think about knot-tying and rope handling as a badge that is to be awarded to young Boy or Girl Scouts. 

Or, if you are an avid history aficionado like myself, knot-tying may even conjure up images in your mind of the seafaring sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The age of sail was one of the pinnacles of human technology with navigating the oceans on massive wooden ships. Skilled crews used miles of rigging consisting of ropes and knots to help steer the large vessel.

The rigging for a British ship-of-the-line.

All of these scenarios are just a brief glimpse into how interwoven human history is with knot-tying and the use of rope. Some historians even believe that knot-tying and rope handling is a technology older than the wheel. It is a relationship as old as recorded history itself! 

In a world full of technological advancements and mechanical wonders, you won’t be able to find a replacement for good knot know-how and rope handling. Just think of some of the industries we wouldn’t have without them: rope access, technical rescue, arboriculture, commercial trucking and shipping, commercial fishing, performing arts, the list goes on and on!

Let’s take a look at three knots that you may find useful in your own backyard or around the house. I will let the videos speak for themselves on how to tie the knot, but I will include some common uses down below!

Figure Eight Stopper Knot

The figure eight stopper knot is a relatively easy knot to tie and functions as the name implies. Tying this knot on the end of a rope may prevent it from slipping out of your hand or falling out of your reach. The figure eight knot is the building block of a whole range of more knots relating to or requiring the figure eight knot!

Tying a number of these knots about a foot apart from each other on an anchored rope will give your kids a simple way to climb a rope. Using a short section of 2x6 wood with two equally spaced holes, two equally-long pieces of rope, and two figure eight stopper knots, you can have yourself an affordable rope swing!

But how do we anchor our rope swing?

Bowline Knot

This particular knot forms a secured loop at the end of a rope that can be used to attach the rope to a suitable anchor. Commonly referred to as the “king of knots”, this knot is also the building block of a whole family of bowline-related knots. It may be more difficult to tie than our figure eight stopper knot, but this is a very appropriate knot to use for anchoring our rope swing as well as anchoring a rope to a truck bed or trailer when you are trying to secure a load,

Chain Sinnet (Daisy Chain)

This knot is used primarily for shortening or storing a longer rope and having quick access to all of its length, without the hassle of coiling or tangled, unwanted knots! I use this knot extensively to store longer extension cords in my garage so that I can plug them in and then transport them to where I need them on my property without having to deal with a tangled, jumbled up mess.

BONUS Knot: Slipknot

If you have mastered the chain sinnet, then you may have learned a fourth knot without even realizing it! The chain sinnet is started by tying a Slipknot. We have our arborists first learn this knot when they begin working at Russell Tree Experts. It is an easy, quick knot to learn and allows you to add a loop anywhere along the rope. To retain the loop in the rope, be sure to clip a carabiner or some sort of equipment to the loop. We use this knot daily to send equipment into a tree’s crown. You may find a use for it such as when adjusting the height of a hammock!

I hope this article has inspired you to look into how tying knots can improve your day-to-day activities around the house. Cheers to the craft of knot-tying!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob joined RTE in 2015 and has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees recreationally (in addition to professionally) and spending lots of time with his family.

Magnolia Scale: They're Back!

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
June 20, 2024​

Hello! We have decided to revisit the topic of magnolia scale and add more information to this previously published article as we are in the middle of a larger magnolia scale infestation compared to last year (2023).

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Please note: This article was originally published on 8/9/2023 and was revised and republished on 6/20/2024.

Is your magnolia tree turning black? Is it attracting ants, flies, bees and wasps? Is there a sticky substance covering the leaves and everything under the plant? If you look closely, you will also see white blotches on the twigs throughout the tree.

This is an invasion of magnolia scale like we have not seen in several years. They happen to thrive in warm summers with abundant moisture. The population is building and is very apparent this year.

The insect overwinters on twigs and is inconspicuous to the untrained eye until it starts feeding and producing honeydew. Honeydew is the very sweet, sticky substance secreted by the insect that in turn coats the leaves and anything under the plant. This is what attracts other insects to the plant. Eventually the insect covers itself with a waxy coating that protects it while feeding. These are the white blotches we are now seeing on the plants starting early summer through August.

Nymphs emerging from a recently plucked adult Magnolia Scale

The juvenile stage of magnolia scale emerges from these waxy coatings (the adults) in mid to late August through September as crawlers. This is when scale are most vulnerable to insecticides and we attempt to control their population. We typically recommend 2 to 3 topical insecticide sprays during this period spaced a couple weeks apart for the best control of the insect due to the extended emergence. During seasons with larger infestations, it is unlikely that insecticide sprays will completely eliminate this insect. The overall goal of plant healthcare is to keep the population at a threshold that minimizes damage and maintains aesthetics of the host tree.

If the tree’s owner is concerned about the population of magnolia scale before the appropriate window for insecticide applications is open, there are a few DIY options that can be done. First, the insects can be scrubbed off from branches and leaves in June and July. This is when the adults are visible before the hatch begins. You could also prune out heavily infested Interior branches to help reduce numbers. Be sure to completely dispose of any pruned branches as the insect will still hatch. Spraying the trees with a medium pressure garden hose can also eliminate some insects as well as reduce the honeydew on the plants.


The insects feed by sucking sap out of the tree. If left untreated the scale population can grow to levels that will cause decline and eventual death in your tree.

Another issue with Magnolia scale is the occurrence of sooty mold which is a byproduct of the honeydew produced by the scale. It is a black fungal growth which is what most people notice first. Although this generally does not harm the tree, it is very unsightly.

In closing, if you have a magnolia in the landscape, give us a call and we will dispatch a certified arborist to your property to come out and complete an evaluation of the tree and make recommendations for the best management strategy. Timing is everything.

Sincerely,

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

English Ivy: the Silent, Selfish Assassin

By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A
February 20, 2025

English ivy climbing the trunks of your trees can look so natural and attractive in the landscape.  It is a lovely and effortless groundcover with glossy, emerald, evergreen foliage. However, English ivy is also a non-native species in the US and will clamber defiantly into your tree’s canopy, threatening the tree’s ultimate survival. You may be tempted, as I have been, to allow this beautiful European invader to engulf the scaffold limbs of your defenseless trees, but please do not be misled by this aggressive charmer. English ivy seeks to deprive your trees of water and nutrients at first, and over time, envelop the tree’s crown and hinder its ability to create food for itself through photosynthesis. The tree is ultimately outcompeted by the vine and slowly declines, while the ivy thrives on its new framework, acquiring all the water, soil nutrients and sunlight for itself.

English ivy can be a very heavy burden for your tree to bear. It can ascend 100’ and achieve 12” diameter stems. The sheer weight can weaken limb attachments, causing failure of limbs or entire trees, especially in wind or snow events. Vigorous vines can block natural air and sun penetration to the bark and encourage pest and disease development. When bark is thickly concealed by vines, tree decay and diseases are also very difficult to observe and can go unnoticed.

If you have unwittingly endangered your trees by allowing English ivy to establish itself on their bark, take action now to exterminate this clingy aggressor. The vines should be cut at the base of the tree, removing a 2-3” section from each stem. Repeat this process at 4-5’ up the trunk.  Carefully spraying or painting the section still attached to the roots with herbicide will help ensure the ivy does not regrow. Maintaining all English ivy 3-4’ away from the trunk is also a great habit. Do not attempt to remove the severed vines from the tree’s bark.  This very grippy greenery is firmly attached using modified stem roots called “hold fasts” and removing the vine will remove the tree bark as well. The remaining, now dead, vines can be safely removed without causing damage to the bark in 2-3 years, if you find them unsightly.

Process to abate English ivy from a tree

4 weeks after Russell Tree Experts abated the English ivy on a large American sycamore specimen

For a free tree quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, please give our local office staff a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote! One of our skilled arborists can tackle this important, tree life-saving task or any other tree care needs! Your trees will express their gratitude with many more years of healthy, unrestricted growth!

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 2/20/25 from its original publish date of 3/10/23]

 

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts

Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]

How to Plant a Tree

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
November 15, 2022

 

Today I would like to discuss step-by-step how ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® TJ Nagel plants a tree! He very kindly planted a kwanzan cherry tree for me at my house that was donated by him, Cindy, one of our office managers, and Mark, our fleet manager! At the bottom of this article is a YouTube video where you can visually follow along!

THE STEPS

  1. First, pick out a tree! TJ and I went to Oakland Nursery and selected a kwanzan cherry tree. To help in the planting process, we brought mushroom compost, mulch, a trowel, a shovel, and a pickaxe. Mushroom compost will help enrich the soil. Mulch will help with water retention, temperature regulation, protection from lawn mowers, and curb appeal. A trowel, a shovel, and a pickaxe will help in the digging process.

  2. Choose a tree planting site! We chose in front a picture window in the front yard for viewing pleasure and as it was a few feet away from any obstructions such as my neighbor’s driveway, the sidewalk, my front porch steps, and nearby plants. We also knew that we were not planting directly on top of any pipes or water lines.

  3. Dig your hole! The hole should be slightly wider but just a few inches shallower than the size of the tree’s pot. You will want a couple extra inches around the circumference of the root ball to pack in compost and dirt. We also like to plant most trees a few inches above the surrounding ground level as the tree could settle over the next couple of years, which is why the hole can be a few inches shallower than the depth of the root ball.

  4. Take the tree out from the pot and cut 4 straight lines across the root ball. This will break up and loosen both the dirt and roots which will help minimize the risk of stem girdling roots. Optionally, you can also clean up and remove any small or entangled surface roots.

  5. Test fit your tree and check if the hole’s depth is adequate. As mentioned earlier, you will want a few extra inches of space around the circumference of the tree and you will want the tree to sit a few inches above the surrounding ground level. Make adjustments to your hole if needed.

  6. Mix up the mushroom compost with the existing, dug up soil with an approximate 1:1 ratio to help enrich the soil and promote growth. You can break up any chunks of dirt to obtain a fine, well blended mixture. If a few grass blades end up in the mixture, it is okay as it will decompose and help enrich the soil with nutrients. As long as there is no significant sod or roots on the surface, there should be no significant risk of weeds. To further minimize the risk of weeds and for aesthetic purposes, we will be placing mulch over top of the soil.

  7. Place your tree in the the hole and fill it with your blended soil mixture! Be sure to keep your tree straight and upright while filling in your hole. You will want to lightly compact the soil mixture so that way the tree is stable during windy weather and does not lean or fall over.

  8. Water the soil!

  9. Apply a couple inches of mulch on top of the soil! Keep the trunk exposed and not covered with soil and also avoid creating a mulch volcano in order to minimize the risk of stem girdling roots. We shaped a small, subtle and almost unnoticeable moat around the perimeter of the elevated soil level to help water flow and soak towards the trunk.

  10. Water the mulch!

  11. And voila, your tree is now planted! Or in this case, this beautiful kwanzan cherry tree is now planted! If there are any tags on the tree, you can remove them now if you have not done so already. Optionally, TJ also made a few minor pruning cuts but this is not always necessary.

The first year is vital for a newly planted tree’s survival so make sure that it does not lean over, that it does not get chewed on or rubbed by any animals like deer, and that it gets properly watered, which can be once to twice per week depending on the season, your local climate, and the way the tree is packaged. You can optionally use a tree trunk guard or posts to help protect your tree and keep it straight but it may not be necessary depending on where you live.

I personally would like to give the hugest shoutout to TJ, Cindy, and Mark for donating and planting this tree. Earlier this year, my sister passed away and she loves kwanzan cherry trees. She loves their spring colors, has posters and images of them in her room and on her phone, and uses the Japanese cherry blossom scent for all her Bath & Body Works products. This sentiment is incredibly touching and meaningful and I cannot be more appreciative.

As mentioned earlier, linked down below is a step-by-step YouTube video you can follow along with as well as a few related tree planting articles! Hopefully you found this article educational and entertaining!

HOW TO PLANT A TREE BY AN ISA BOARD CERTIFIED MASTER ARBORIST

ADDITIONAL READS

How to Mulch Around a Tree
by Enrique Arayata

10 Trees with Amazing Fall Color… And One You Should Avoid!
by TJ Nagel

Why Can’t I Plant a Tree Just Anywhere?
by Enrique Arayata

Planting Trees for a Purpose
by Mike McKee


Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

17

Seventeen years ago near this season I was starting my second year as an arborist in training. A few months more into the year and I would be applying to the ISA to sit for the Certified Arborist examination, which thankfully I would pass. At this point in my career, I was fortunate to be working under a foreman who was (and is) passionate about trees, so as I learned primarily about climbing and pruning, I was also being taught about CODIT, tree identification, and common tree pests and diseases.

How to Mulch Around a Tree

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
April 7, 2021

 

Mulching is an important aspect of tree maintenance that is both functional and decorative, adding to your tree’s lifespan and helping it look its best. The main benefits of tree mulching are that it deters weeds, improves soil quality, protects trees from lawnmower damage, insulates soil from extreme temperatures, and retains moisture during hot weather. Today, I would like to talk about some tips and tricks on how to properly mulch a tree. At the top of this article is an instructional video hosted by ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice that can be used to follow along while mulching your own tree!

Example of a properly mulched tree

Example of a properly mulched tree

To mulch a tree, you will need organic wood chip mulch, a shovel, a rake, and personal protective equipment such as safety glasses, gloves, and boots. A wheelbarrow or air spade may potentially be needed depending on the situation. The best time to mulch a tree is in the fall or spring. Many trees are incorrectly mulched when the mulch is too high or when it covers the root collar of the tree, which is where the trunk and roots meet. The mulch only needs to be 1 to 2 inches deep and the root collar should be completely exposed in order to properly receive oxygen. This will help prevent girdling roots, which are roots that wrap around the trunk in search of oxygen. This can suffocate a tree and add unnecessary stress. If your tree has girdling roots or a mulch volcano, you will need to resolve these issues prior to mulching.

If there are no girdling roots, the first step is to pull out any weeds surrounding the base of the tree. Then, you may begin applying mulch in a wide and evenly spread area. For younger trees, it is ideal to mulch all the way out to the canopy drip line, which is where the majority of a tree’s roots extend, but you may have to compromise depending on your landscape.

Example of a canopy drip line

Example of a canopy drip line

For older trees, this is not as important. You should still see similar results when bringing the mulch out about 3 to 5 feet from the base. You can use a rake, shovel, or your hands to evenly distribute the mulch. The mulch only has to be about 1 to 2 inches deep at most, so make sure you avoid mounding, Leave about 2 to 3 inches of space between the mulch and the root collar in order for the tree to properly receive oxygen and to prevent girdling roots. This will also help prevent any moisture issues, which can lead to disease and rotting. Afterwards, you are all set!

For maintenance, water your mulch whenever it looks dry. Ohio can have inconsistent weather, so there is no need to water it on a scheduled basis. Also, only add mulch whenever it is looking sparse and below that 1 to 2 inch needed depth. Make sure you break up, turn over, and mix in the old mulch to prolong the mulch’s lifespan, prevent any clumping, and to allow maximum movement of oxygen and water. If there are any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comments section below and be sure to watch ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice’s video for a visual guide on this topic! Good luck on your next mulching project!

Additional Reads!

Below are two excellent articles written by our ISA Certified Arborists related to mulch volcanoes and girdling roots.

”Mulch Mounds! Oh My!”
by ISA Board Certified Master Arborist José Fernández

“Are Your Trees Being Suffocated By Their Own Roots?”
by ISA Certified Arborist Chris Gill

Enrique Arayata Headshot.jpg

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

How to Verify a Certified Arborist Credential

210406-cert-arb-lindsey-v3.jpg

Recently, it was brought to my attention that there are some people performing tree work in the area claiming to be “certified arborists” when in fact, they are not. So… how can you tell if someone is telling the truth? One way is to ask for a business card or ask for their ISA Certified Arborist® credential number which will be in the following format: [state abbreviation] – [four digits] [letter]. Here is an example of a business card (mine!) with the credential number explicitly listed:

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The best way to verify this credential number is to search on the ISA Certified Arborist® database. Simply go to treesaregood.org, click the “Find an Arborist” section then choose “Verify a Credential.” From there, enter the credential certification number and submit the request to see if the credential is in fact genuine.

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Over my time working at Russell Tree Experts, I’ve sadly heard countless stories of “door knockers” coming by a person’s home and ruining their beloved tree. It’s a very sad occurrence in our industry and we hope through education these stories can lessen.

Improper tree work not only can cause irreparable damage to the tree or property, but there is also potential for spreading disease to nearby trees and affecting others’ landscapes. Tree care can also be very dangerous work, for both the property owner and the person doing the work. We highly recommend hiring an ISA Certified professional (even if it’s not us!) with the proper equipment, knowledge, and experience to perform your challenging tree work. The health of our environment relies on proper care for our trees so we may enjoy their countless benefits from improving air quality to providing homes for wildlife and beyond!

We’re very proud to have 19 ISA Certified Arborists® on our staff! Feel free to double-check their credentials at treesaregood.org! :)

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Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.

New Disease Control Measures for Oak & Elm Trees

… I hope everyone is having a great week and enjoying this sunshiny weather! I love being able to get outside with my girls and get some vitamin D and open our windows and get some fresh air. With spring around the corner, I wanted to bring to your attention that Russell Tree Experts is implementing some new Oak tree and Elm tree safety procedures to ensure the health and safety of these types of trees in the Columbus area.

Where’s the Fruit?

As an arborist, I often feel like I need to double as a detective. Trees, obviously, cannot tell us verbally how they are "feeling" or why they are behaving in a certain way. We have to look for clues as to what is possibly going on with them. When I am asked why a tree is performing poorly, oftentimes I need to swap out my helmet for a Sherlock Holmes cap and start digging around, asking questions of the tree's caretaker and standing back to observe the environment in which the tree exists.

Understanding Conifers

Understanding conifers should begin with a few simple definitions to clarify and classify. A conifer is a plant that bears its seeds in cones. When we hear the word cone, we likely think of pine and spruce trees, two types of coniferous trees that are widely found throughout Central Ohio and beyond. Their cones are obvious when they fall and scatter on the ground surrounding the tree. But did you know that yews (Taxus) and junipers are also conifers?

How do you become a Certified Arborist?

Have you ever wanted to become a Certified Arborist? The first step is developing an interest in trees: species, habits, ideal growing conditions, diseases, pests, structure, life cycle. An inquisitive mind is a great asset for any arborist. Any question about trees is a good question! Now that your curiosity is piqued, the next step in developing your arboreal skills is finding the answers!

Leave Those Leaves!

Of all of our seasons, I’ve heard more people proclaim their love of fall than any of the others. It marks an end to the uncomfortable heat of summer and traditionally represents a time when we reap the gifts of the harvest and prepare for winter. And for several weeks, our trees also gift us with a wonderful display of color. Everyone has a favorite - the brilliant orange of our native sugar maples, the rich yellow of the non-native maidenhair tree (Ginkgo), the reds, purples, and browns of oaks.

What's Going on with My Oak? Part 2

Earlier this year, we shared an article that highlighted two issues that were tied to recent weather patterns and had many homeowners concerned about their oak trees - one was an insect (Oak Shothole Leafminer) and another was a fungal pathogen (Oak Anthracnose). Combined, they made for unsightly leaves that were riddled with holes and brown patches. Fortunately, both issues were more of an aesthetic concern than anything else, and neither of them required treatment or had any lasting effects on the overall health of the trees. In fact, they are both likely to occur each year to some degree and should not be reason for concern.

Best Practices for Watering Your Trees

Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.