Spring: A Great Time to Fertilize

By Chris Gill
March 7, 2024

Dear Reader,

Spring is a great time to fertilize trees. As the soil begins to warm up, feeder roots become active and begin to look for nutrients in the soil. A general Spring fertilization provides trees with a boost of macronutrients (typically nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) which are essential to trees as they enter the challenges of a new growing season and require energy to develop new leaves, branches, and roots. Spring fertilization can also benefit trees recovering from the winter stresses of cold temperatures, desiccating winds, and potential exposure to de-icing products around tree roots. 

At Russell Tree Experts, we fertilize trees through a technique called deep-root fertilization. We perform deep-root fertilization by using a lance to inject liquid fertilizer under pressure deep into the feeder root system in a soluble form that is easy for the tree to take up. This is superior to a traditional surface application where a granular fertilizer is spread over the root system of a tree but still requires time for the product to break down and work itself into the soil. Deep-root fertilization allows nutrients to pass by the competitive roots of turf, weeds, and other ground covers to maximize uptake for the tree. The process of deep root fertilization also helps to loosen up compacted soil around the tree to promote better root growth while also allowing water and oxygen to more easily reach the roots. Compacted soil is a common problem in urban landscapes and can reduce a tree’s ability to access nutrients.

STEP 1: Fertilization

In the spring or fall the soil around the tree will be fertilized with a custom selection of the following: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), and liquid compost - all essential nutrients for healthy soil and root systems. The goal is to provide the tree with the best soil chemistry possible.

STEP 2: Metabolic Processes

The tree acquires carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen from the atmosphere and from water. Using light energy from the sun (photosynthesis), these are combined to produce glucose. Other essential nutrients are gathered from the soil. The tree uses glucose and essential nutrients for growth, reproduction, and pest/disease resistance.

STEP 3: Evapotranspiration

Through this process the tree is able to move nutrients from the soil, up the trunk, and into the outer canopy, carrying them dissolved in water to be used as needed. This process continues throughout the growing season.

STEP 4: Reduced Nutrient Levels

In urban soils macro and micronutrients can be depleted for several reasons, limiting metabolic processes. Fertilization helps maintain nutrient availability to trees by supplying needed elements that have been used by the tree or leached out of the soil. [BACK TO STEP 1]

Trees that are showing dieback in the canopy, poor leaf color, stunted growth, or low vigor are all great candidates for fertilization. When putting together a fertilization plan, it is important to also consider tree type and location. Most trees benefit from a general fertilization, but many tree species may require more specific nutrients. Some of these nutrients can be lacking in urban and highly developed environments. For example, many woodland species that grow naturally in low-lying areas (ex: river birch, pin oak, and red maple) often require the addition of manganese to a fertilization program for long-term health and vigor when planted in a residential neighborhood. The specific nutrient for which a tree is deficient may not always be obvious, especially in a young or newly planted tree, but can be determined easily through soil and tissue testing. Russell Tree Experts can provide these testing services as needed.

Trees in native areas are less likely to require fertilization. This is due to the less disturbed nature of the soil and to the natural breakdown of leaves, sticks, and other organic matter continually providing nutrients to the soil or a “natural fertilization.” Trees in urban or highly developed areas are less likely to experience “natural fertilization” due to interference from hardscapes and through regular landscape maintenance practices including raking out yards and landscape beds. 

Soil quality is the key to good tree health and longevity and Spring fertilization is a great way to start the soil improvement process. There are various considerations that are made when selecting a fertilizer for your trees including the type of tree and the location of the tree in your landscape. Consulting with one of our certified arborists can help determine the specific nutritional needs of your trees and get the process started!

Sincerely,

Chris Gill I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Chris joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 and has been in the green industry for over 15 years. When not at RTE, he enjoys spending time with wife & son, wakeboarding, and hunting. His favorite trees are the white oak & sugar maple for their beauty and uses beyond the landscape. Chris is an ISA certified arborist, EHAT certified, CPR and first aid certified, holds an ODA commercial pesticide license, and holds a tree risk assessment qualification (TRAQ).

More Tree Preservation Articles!

Tree Bracing 101

Dear Reader,

Trees adorn our landscapes, offering shade, beauty, and a connection to nature. However, ensuring their structural integrity and stability is vital for their longevity. Common tree preservation services that you may be familiar with are tree pruning and mulching. Other uncommon services could be cabling or trunk injections depending on the specific tree. However, throughout my 4+ years of working at Russell Tree Experts, one service that I have not heard of up until this year is tree bracing! Let's delve into the world of tree bracing to understand the process and benefits!

What is Tree Bracing?

Tree bracing? I couldn’t initially picture what this meant when first hearing it. Let’s first break down tree bracing into two words. Tree. Bracing. Tree: A woody, perennial plant typically having a single stem. I know what that is. Brace: To make (something) stronger or firmer, or to prepare for something difficult or unpleasant. So would it be a solid guess that tree bracing is the process of making a tree stronger? Yes! That’s exactly what it is!

Tree bracing is a tree preservation service to reduce the risk of two or more stems from splitting apart or to fasten a split or cracked union together, thus improving the overall structure of your tree. This is achieved through the installation of brace rods to prevent select tree unions from spreading or twisting apart or to prevent a split or cracked union from worsening.

This sounds great! Let’s start bracing every single tree to improve their overall structure! Well, not so fast. Only certain trees will stand to benefit from tree bracing. Just like fertilizing trees with manganese or iron to treat a manganese or iron deficiency, this service is only recommended for trees that need it, otherwise there would be either no noticeable effect or even a decrease in structural rigidity. Just like with pruning, which involves removing (or “wounding”) the tree’s crown of undesired parts, bracing is a semi-invasive procedure that involves installing large threaded steel rods into the trunk of the tree, so we only want to install brace rods when the net result is positive and beneficial. 

What Trees Should Be Braced?

So what trees should receive tree bracing? Well, as mentioned earlier, trees with a split or cracked union could benefit from brace rod installation. A split or cracked union should be easy to spot, especially in the winter in the case for deciduous trees as there is little to no foliage. A limb can split or crack due to various reasons like included bark (bark that is partially or fully embedded into the tree’s wood), improper pruning, disease, and storm damage from adverse weather like lightning, heavy winds, rainstorms, and thick layers of ice just to name a few. A split or cracked union can also occur from structural defects like large, long, horizontally growing limbs and codominant stems. If the limb is large and long and growing more horizontal rather than vertical, there could be a lot of weight-related stress near the union that could cause it to split if the limb is not supported properly or if end-weight reduction pruning does not occur. Codominant stems are two similarly sized stems originating from the same point of the tree and growing in the same, general direction. They can be characterized as having a tight “V” shape near the union or by both of the limbs competing to be the central leader of the whole structure. This is not ideal for a tree’s structure as they are prone to splitting during adverse weather conditions. In scenarios where removal of the branch or tree is not viable or preferred, tree bracing serves as a beneficial solution or alternative.

What Are the Benefits to Tree Bracing?

Tree bracing can be beneficial for a tree as they can minimize movement, ensuring the splits or cracks do not occur or worsen, especially during strong weather. A tree with poor structure or a split or cracked union may not want to be removed by the owner as it is a specimen tree (a tree chosen as a point of focus in a landscape) that provides aesthetics, shade, real estate value, or more. For some trees, it may also be unnecessary to remove them simply because of one or two weak, treatable unions that could even be healed over time. Tree bracing aims to improve the tree’s structure at a choice union and to give its owner more peace of mind that a union or limb has a decreased chance of failing, which would potentially end the tree’s life, or to keep it from falling onto something like a house, car, driveway, or anything else near the tree.

The Tree Bracing Process

Here at Russell Tree Experts, we use the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices to help guide us! With that said, before tree bracing begins, we typically prune the tree's crown to reduce weight and then install one or more cables in the crown to support the suspect union(s) from above. Once these initial steps are complete, we install a specified size and quantity of brace rods in your tree in accordance with the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices. The size and quantity is determined by factors such as the tree’s diameter below the union, number of limbs or unions being cared for, and whether or not there is or is not a split or crack present. To install the brace rods, holes are drilled straight through the tree near the union. The threaded brace rods are then fully inserted and will have excess rod on both ends. The brace rods are then secured with one or more washers, a lock washer, and a nut on both ends. The connections are then tightened as firmly as possible. Afterwards, the excess length of threaded rod is cut off close to the nuts and subsequently peened off to prevent any movement of the nuts. And voila! The end result is a tree with increased structural integrity and a reduced chance of failing! 

I talked with my coworker Jacob, our Training & Development Manager and an ISA certified arborist, read through the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices, and looked at other resources online to see if it was an acceptable practice to drill holes through a tree to install brace rods. After considering a variety of sources, the general consensus is that the overall impact is minor because almost all of the drilled wounds are filled with threaded steel rod (except a 1/32'' gap), allowing the tree to compartmentalize the wounds rapidly, and that tree bracing should be done on trees that have a bigger concern to worry about, such as two codominant stems or a split union.

Professional assessment is imperative to determine the necessity of bracing for a tree. Signs such as co-dominant stems or split or cracked unions should prompt owners to get an opinion from an ISA certified arborist. After researching, observing, recording, and photographing various trees being braced, I felt empowered and motivated to share my newfound knowledge on this not-so-commonly heard of tree preservation service! The main purpose of this Arbor Ed article is to educate and share my findings, but Russell Tree Experts does provide tree bracing services should you want or need it! Our regional managers are all ISA certified arborists and can provide a free inspection and quote! Below are some videos about tree bracing! 

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Coordinator, Russell Tree Experts

In his free time, Enrique enjoys working out, hanging out with his girlfriend, video production and photography, cars, technology, cooking, and watching new movies and YouTube videos. He has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University, and is an FAA Certified Remote Pilot.

Learn More About Tree Bracing!

Tree Work in the Winter?

By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2025

[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/25 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]

“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.

Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.

Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.

Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.

Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.

With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.

One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!

As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote from one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000!

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

The Year of the Ugly Boxwood

Dear Reader, 

My good friend and arborist colleague Cat Baumgartner wrote the below article for the Inniswood Garden Society’s quarterly member newsletter (known as The Image). As soon as I read it, I knew that I wanted to share it with all our readers. Cat does a thorough job of describing the most serious problems we have had with boxwood this year and she explains them well and in simple terms. She has generously agreed to let us republish it. Photos within the body of Cat’s article are courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County.

- TJ Nagel, Russell Tree Experts

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The Year of The
Ugly Boxwood

by cat Baumgartner, Oakland Nursery

I don’t have a simple answer. Or there are multiple answers, and your boxwood might have one, or several of the problems at once.

I’ll go over the likely suspects for this year- including winter damage, or ‘winter burn’, Boxwood Leafminer, Volutella Blight, and THE Boxwood Blight.

I’ll start with winter burn. Boxwood store a lot of their energy in their leaves through the winter. When we get extreme cold and wind in the winter, the leaves will lose more moisture. If the ground is frozen or dry (or worse, both), the leaves lose moisture faster than the roots can replace it, and we get the ‘burn’, where they turn a straw color and die, staying attached to the stem. It wasn’t noticeable until early spring, because evergreens have a delayed reaction to stress. It’s why we can cut down trees for Christmas and they don’t immediately turn brown, often lasting months. We did have greater than normal rainfall last year, but the three months leading up to late December were on the dry side. So, the ground was dry leading up to the extreme cold event that hit in late December creating a Double Whammy. There was a lot more winter burn this spring than I’ve seen in decades. It looks like straw-colored sections in the shrubs, often in a random pattern.

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Next, there are different blights out there that can affect boxwood. ‘Blight’ is a general term for a plant disease, typically caused by a type of fungus. Most of them are less common and less damaging than the blight striking fear in the hearts of gardeners that is Calonectria pseudonaviculata, called simply “Boxwood Blight”. There have been some isolated cases in the Greater Columbus area. The main symptom though is defoliation. You’ll have green leaves, then they’ll start looking funny, and rapidly progress and fall off the stem. In a matter of weeks, you can go from a healthy-looking plant to one with sections with completely naked stems. Definitive identification requires lab testing. Other blights can show similar symptoms, but since some are more treatable, confirming which type of blight your boxwood might have is recommended before removing plants. If you do have “Boxwood Blight,” replanting with more boxwood is not recommended, so confirmation of what kind of blight you have will also tell you what you can plant in that spot. Most of the damage we’ve been seeing is NOT “Boxwood Blight.”

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Volutella Blight or Pseudonectria Canker (Pseudonectria buxi) can be damaging but is not necessarily a death sentence often just affecting individual stems and not whole portions of the plant. Symptoms can be seen if the stem is sliced into, showing dark brown streaking just under the bark. Most twigs infected with Volutella blight will turn straw colored and die. In most cases dead stems from Volutella canker can be easily pruned out and the remaining portions of the boxwood will fill in slowly over time. 

This year we also had frost damage in May. If leaf buds are still tight, frost is not a problem. If the new leaves have emerged, but have ‘hardened off’, it is also not a problem. But if the new growth is timed so that it is new, fresh and tender, and then we have a late freeze, the new growth is damaged, turns that sad straw color, and is aesthetically at least, a problem. A healthy shrub can put out another round of growth, and it is not a long-term problem. Trimming off the burnt new growth is all that needs doing.

Photo courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County. 

Boxwood Leafminer, an insect pest, is an ongoing problem. The damage from leaf miner is more generalized, an ‘all-over’ bad look rather than the chunky sections dying back. The adults lay eggs in the new growth in mid-spring, and as the larval stage hatches and begins to feed on the interior tissues, the leaves start looking bad, often having a blistered or bubbled effect, usually easier to see from the bottom of the leaf.   

Preventative sprays can thwart adult leafminers from laying eggs in the new growth, but need to be applied as you see the new growth. Systemics applied in the Fall or Spring can also provide control but know that boxwoods are insect pollinated. 

If you don’t have Boxwood blight, you have two options. Cut out the dead branches and let the plants regrow which may take three years or more to totally restore, in good condition, or replace the plants.

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A Final Note…

Since Cat wrote her article, we have had several boxwood shrubs test positive for yet another disease, Colletotrichum theobromicola (also referred to as boxwood dieback). This is a new disease for central Ohio and symptoms look similar to other blight diseases with the random dieback of twigs and straw-colored foliage. However, in addition to twig dieback, the pathogen also causes leaf spots that appear white in the center surrounded by dark brown margins as well as a bright black discoloration just beneath the bark along the twigs. The jury is still out on the best way to attempt to manage this disease but for now, good cultural practices such as removing symptomatic plants and sterilizing pruning tools between pruning different plants are the best-known strategies. Fungicides might also be helpful, but efficacy has not been determined. Laboratory testing should be used to confirm boxwood dieback because it can easily be misdiagnosed as other blight diseases. 

View fullsize

Twig Dieback (Colletotrichum theobromicola)

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Leaf Spotting (Colletotrichum theobromicola)

As we continue to have more problems in the landscape with boxwood, it may be time to consider alternative plants that can achieve a similar function. Stay tuned for my boxwood replacement article later this Fall.

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.

Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!

When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?

Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!

Two examples of trees with codominant stems

You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant. 

Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau

To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.

So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years. 

However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:

End-Weight Reductions

• Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.

Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree.

Cabling Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.

A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio.

Through-Brace Support System

• Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.

Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted.

Propping Support System

• Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.

A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina.

All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.

3 Knots for Your Backyard!

What uses come to mind when you think of knot-tying? Putting up a rope swing, securing a load in a truck bed, or installing a makeshift fence around the garden perhaps?

Rope handling and knot-tying may be overlooked by many today as an antiquated skill lost to history. When questioned, most people may only think about knot-tying and rope handling as a badge that is to be awarded to young Boy or Girl Scouts. 

Or, if you are an avid history aficionado like myself, knot-tying may even conjure up images in your mind of the seafaring sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The age of sail was one of the pinnacles of human technology with navigating the oceans on massive wooden ships. Skilled crews used miles of rigging consisting of ropes and knots to help steer the large vessel.

The rigging for a British ship-of-the-line.

All of these scenarios are just a brief glimpse into how interwoven human history is with knot-tying and the use of rope. Some historians even believe that knot-tying and rope handling is a technology older than the wheel. It is a relationship as old as recorded history itself! 

In a world full of technological advancements and mechanical wonders, you won’t be able to find a replacement for good knot know-how and rope handling. Just think of some of the industries we wouldn’t have without them: rope access, technical rescue, arboriculture, commercial trucking and shipping, commercial fishing, performing arts, the list goes on and on!

Let’s take a look at three knots that you may find useful in your own backyard or around the house. I will let the videos speak for themselves on how to tie the knot, but I will include some common uses down below!

Figure Eight Stopper Knot

The figure eight stopper knot is a relatively easy knot to tie and functions as the name implies. Tying this knot on the end of a rope may prevent it from slipping out of your hand or falling out of your reach. The figure eight knot is the building block of a whole range of more knots relating to or requiring the figure eight knot!

Tying a number of these knots about a foot apart from each other on an anchored rope will give your kids a simple way to climb a rope. Using a short section of 2x6 wood with two equally spaced holes, two equally-long pieces of rope, and two figure eight stopper knots, you can have yourself an affordable rope swing!

But how do we anchor our rope swing?

Bowline Knot

This particular knot forms a secured loop at the end of a rope that can be used to attach the rope to a suitable anchor. Commonly referred to as the “king of knots”, this knot is also the building block of a whole family of bowline-related knots. It may be more difficult to tie than our figure eight stopper knot, but this is a very appropriate knot to use for anchoring our rope swing as well as anchoring a rope to a truck bed or trailer when you are trying to secure a load,

Chain Sinnet (Daisy Chain)

This knot is used primarily for shortening or storing a longer rope and having quick access to all of its length, without the hassle of coiling or tangled, unwanted knots! I use this knot extensively to store longer extension cords in my garage so that I can plug them in and then transport them to where I need them on my property without having to deal with a tangled, jumbled up mess.

BONUS Knot: Slipknot

If you have mastered the chain sinnet, then you may have learned a fourth knot without even realizing it! The chain sinnet is started by tying a Slipknot. We have our arborists first learn this knot when they begin working at Russell Tree Experts. It is an easy, quick knot to learn and allows you to add a loop anywhere along the rope. To retain the loop in the rope, be sure to clip a carabiner or some sort of equipment to the loop. We use this knot daily to send equipment into a tree’s crown. You may find a use for it such as when adjusting the height of a hammock!

I hope this article has inspired you to look into how tying knots can improve your day-to-day activities around the house. Cheers to the craft of knot-tying!

Sincerely,

Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Jacob joined RTE in 2015 and has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees recreationally (in addition to professionally) and spending lots of time with his family.

Meet Mitch Lippencott!

Dear Reader,

I’m proud and excited to announce the newest member of our regional management team, Mitch Lippencott. Mitch is someone I always enjoy working and sharing tree talk with. If you are fortunate enough to reside in the Grandview, Franklinton, Hilliard, Dublin or Plain City/Marysville areas, Mitch will be your new Russell Tree Experts representative!

Mitch has more than 20 years experience in the green industry. His background is diverse - before Russell Tree Experts, Mitch worked for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and performed municipal tree work for two different communities. His experience gives him a wide spectrum of knowledge in horticulture and tree care.

Mitch joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 as a ground worker and progressed quickly to plant health care and production crew leader before joining our management team. Mitch is an Ohio State graduate, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. He is preparing to take the ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® exam this winter. We wish him well in this new position and all endeavors!

Sincerely,

TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010