Why Can’t I Plant a Tree Just Anywhere?

Image via Adobe Stock

By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
May 13, 2021

When I first began working at Russell Tree Experts as a video production assistant, I had no significant prior knowledge of arboriculture, and I never really understood the concept of tree planting. My overall impression was that trees are good for the environment as they provide oxygen, contribute to an ecosystem, and are visually pleasing to look at and enjoy. However, after working at Russell Tree Experts for almost two years now and after taking a World of Plants class at The Ohio State University, I learned that it’s not that simple. For many reasons, a tree cannot simply be planted anywhere, as it may be planted in the wrong location, leading to a low survival rate or a negative impact on the local ecosystem.

Hardiness Zones

One reason why a tree cannot just be planted anywhere is because it may be planted in the wrong hardiness zone. The USDA Hardiness Zone Map is a map of the United States that divides the country into different zones based on the area’s average annual minimum winter temperature. In relation to arboriculture, it can often reveal where a tree has or does not have a strong likelihood of survival and growth. For example, palm trees (Arecaceae) can be expected to grow in hardiness zones 8 and above. If it were planted in Columbus, Ohio, which has a hardiness zone of approximately 6a, it would not have a strong likelihood of growth and survival and may require extensive care and maintenance. However, if that palm tree were to be planted in Miami, Florida, which has a hardiness zone of 10b, it would have a higher chance of successful growth and survival, which makes sense as palm trees can be commonly seen in Miami and not in Columbus.

Native vs Non-Native

Even if a tree is planted in the proper hardiness zone, it may still not survive or grow well if it is in a non-native area. When compared to non-native trees, native trees are adapted to the local climate and soil conditions and experience fewer insect and disease problems. They may also require little to no fertilizers, pesticides, or added water. Native insects, birds, and animals also rely on native trees for food and shelter and might not adapt well to a non-native tree. Although many trees have been planted and grown outside of their native area, some non-native trees may be more susceptible to insect and disease problems or may even spread an insect and disease problem if planted in a non-native area. For example, the Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens) is natively found in the southern Rocky Mountains area, such as Colorado. Although it can be expected to grow in hardiness zones 2 through 7, which Ohio falls under, a Colorado blue spruce planted in Columbus, Ohio has a significantly higher chance of suffering from rhizosphaera needle cast, a fungal disease causing needles to turn brown and fall off, due to Ohio’s local ecosystem and weather conditions.

Invasive

Invasive Tree
/inˈvāsiv trē/

Definition: An exotic, indigenous, or non-native tree species that has a negative or harmful effect on the growth of commercial, nearby, or native tree species.

Invasive trees will survive, reproduce, and quickly spread in large numbers at considerable distances from the parent tree with little to no maintenance or aid. They will also threaten the native or natural ecosystem or habitat by outcompeting the neighboring trees and plants for resources like sunlight, water, nutrients, soil, and space. Finally (and maybe most troublingly), they can also change the character, form, condition, or nature of their planted ecosystem in favor of their conditions rather than the native species’ conditions. These invasive species can be introduced purposely or by accident, but regardless, they are serious environmental pests. It can lead to the loss of biodiversity, habitat degradation, and economic damage in some cases. Examples of invasive species in Ohio include, but are not limited to, amur honeysuckle, autumn olive, multiflora rose, and the tree of heaven. For more information on invasive species in Ohio, visit this link: Ohio Department of Agriculture.

Additional Factors

Let’s say you are ready to plant a tree in your yard and you have chosen a native, non-invasive tree with little to no insect or disease problems that is suitable for your local area’s hardiness zone; there are still a few things to consider that could impact the lifespan of your tree.

SUNLIGHT PREFERENCE
Trees have a sun preference (full, partial, full shade) and if a tree were to be planted outside of its sun preference, it may lead to less than ideal results: stunted growth in a tree’s height potential, poor flowering/fruiting ability, dehydration, low survival rate, and more. To determine a planting site’s sun allowance, observe the area’s amount of sun or shade throughout the day.

SOIL PREFERENCE
Trees have a wide range of soil preferences based on moisture, material, and pH level. For example, a tree may prefer certain moisture of soil like well-drained soil, a certain soil material like clay soil, or a certain pH level like alkaline or acidic pH soil. pH is a method of measuring a solution or soil’s acidity or alkalinity ranging from 0 to 14. 0 is acidic, 7 is neutral, and 14 is basic. If a tree that prefers a low soil pH, such as a pin oak tree, is planted in soil that has a high pH, it may lead to issues such as chlorotic leaves or the need for seasonal fertilization to maintain a certain pH level. Studies have shown that soil near recently paved sidewalks may have a higher pH due to limestone in the cement mixture. To measure a planting site’s soil pH level, give us a call and we can arrange a soil test.

Ask Yourself

So before you plant that tree in your yard, as yourself the following questions:

1. Is this tree appropriate for this hardiness zone?

2. Is this tree native to this location?

3. Is this tree not deemed invasive?

4. Am I planting this tree in an area with the ideal sunlight for the species?

5. Am I planting this tree in an area with the ideal soil for the species?

If you answer “Yes” to all five then you are likely good to start digging! PS - we recommend that you don’t plant your trees during the summer months as the heat adds additional stress to young trees.

Additional Reads

Feel free to also check out our ARBOR ED™ tree planting articles for more information written by my fellow coworkers! I hope this helps, good luck, and have fun on your next tree planting project!

Sincerely,

Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.

Planting Trees for a Purpose

I think we all can agree that our TREE FOR A TREE® program is an awesome idea for replacing the trees that we remove, but as I set in the office watching nature happen outside my window, I started thinking of other reasons to plant trees. Trees provide countless benefits to our environment as well as providing food and shelter for a number of living organisms. Anytime that I am walking through a property I cannot help but notice the birds enjoying all that the trees are providing for them. I decided to write about planting trees that provide shelter and food for birds throughout the year. 

One of the first types of trees that I would consider would be conifers. Not only do they provide fruit and seed throughout the fall and into winter, but they also provide unmatched cover and nesting sites. The Eastern red cedar would be a favorite for our area as well as White pine and many Spruce species. If you plan to feed the birds, it is always a good idea to have conifers nearby to provide cover for the birds taking advantage of your feeders.

The next type that I would recommend planting for attracting and feeding birds would be a variety of fruit trees. Careful selection of varieties can provide fruit throughout the year. One favorite would be the Mulberry tree, but be careful with placement as the fruit can be rather messy. Other smaller trees would be Serviceberries, Flowering Dogwoods, and Crabapples which can provide fruit from the summer, (Serviceberry) to the fall, and even into the winter with many Crabapples.

Of the large native trees, there are a few that seem to attract a large variety of birds, including wild turkeys. Some would be the White oak, Wild black cherry, and the American beech. They provide nuts, fruit, and the Beech often provides hollow nesting sites as well, often used by Owls.

There are also many vines that are very beneficial to birds. A couple of favorites are wild grape vines which are great for the fruit they provide and the shredding bark is great for nest building material. Another would be the Virginia Creeper vine that provides fruit that can last into winter and as a bonus has brilliant fall color.

One thing to keep in mind when planting to attract birds in our area is to try to use native plant material when possible. There is a large variety of native shrubs as well that are awesome plants with a lot of benefits for birds. 

Another idea that I observed recently while visiting a client’s property was a technique they used to attract woodpeckers. They gathered large fallen branches from a wooded area on their property and leaned them against a tree outside their window where they hang their bird feeders. The woodpeckers would come to extract insects from the decaying branches.

In closing, I would like to mention a few quick reminders to keep in mind whenever planting trees and shrubs:

1. Always identify the root flare on your plant material prior to digging the hole as this will identify how deep to dig the hole.

2. Dig a broad shallow hole, no deeper than needed to place the root flare at the same height as the surrounding grade, and broad enough to allow proper root expansion.

3. Firmly backfill around the root ball and only stake when necessary to support the tree.

4. Water thoroughly and cover the excavated area and tree with 1-2 inches of mulch.

Also, here is a how-to video created by our team. Check it out!

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Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Best Practices for Watering Your Trees

Please note: This article was originally published on 8/13/2020 and was republished on 8/1/2023.

Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.

I approached the tree expecting to see an insect infestation, disease presence, or mechanical damage from my neighbor getting to close with his string trimmer. I could find none of these things. Upon closer inspection I noticed that the soil around the base of the tree was cracked, hard and dry and that I simply had allowed the root system to dry out. I felt like such a greenhorn. I immediately watered the tree with a slow deep soaking and will continue to do so through the end of October.

© Russell Tree Experts

An arborist is not supposed to make this mistake but I share this story to show you how it can happen to anyone and to illustrate that there is a better way to water, and that watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.

Many of the calls that come through our office are a result of improper tree watering, both directly and indirectly. Some are regarding trees that were planted and simply never watered, others are regarding trees that have experienced significant drought stress and now have been impacted by pest and/or disease problems targeting a vulnerable host.

Drought stress develops in trees when available soil water becomes limited. Newly planted trees are at the highest risk of drought stress because they do not have an extensive root system. As the soil dries it becomes harder and more compact reducing oxygen availability. When this happens young feeder roots can be killed outright further reducing the trees ability to absorb sufficient water even after it may return to the soil.

Why is water important to trees? Trees require water for two important functions: (1) Photosynthesis: the process by which plants synthesize food and (2) Transpiration: a process where water evaporates from the leaves and is drawn up from the roots helping to move nutrients up the tree.

No water in the soil means no nutrient transfer and no photosynthesis. This generally equates to tree death.

Knowing the best way to deliver water is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees so here are some basic guidelines and tips to follow to make sure you are getting the most out of your watering efforts:

When to water

Newly planted trees should be watered one to two times per week during the growing season. The best time to water is early in the morning or at night. This allows trees the opportunity to replenish their moisture during these hours when they are not as stressed by hot temperatures. Watering at night allows more effective use of water and less loss to evaporation. Side note: If watering at night, a system that directs water into the ground and away from the foliage is recommended. Some foliar fungal diseases like apple scab or needle cast can thrive on foliage that remains wet through the cool nighttime hours.

How to Water

The best way to water newly planted trees is slowly, deeply and for a long time so that roots have more time to absorb moisture from the soil. A deep soaking will encourage roots to grow deeper as opposed to frequent shallow watering which can lead to a shallow root system more vulnerable to drying out (like my Nikko maple).

I like to water trees slowly two different ways. Around my house I use a garden hose with the pressure turned low so that water is coming out at a slow trickle. I place the end of the hose on the root ball a few inches away from the main stem and leave it in place 30 - 60 minutes depending on the size of the tree. This should be done at least once a week during the growing season. Verify that water is coming out slowly and seeping into the soil rather than just running off into the lawn. For trees that are outside the range of my hose, I like to use 5-gallon buckets with two small holes poked in the bottom of one side. These can be filled up quickly with the hose but will drain slowly, ideal for a slow soaking. Two 5-gallon buckets once a week should suffice for most newly planted trees, depending on the size.

Where to water

It is important to understand that for the first growing season after planting, most newly planted tree's roots are still within the original root ball. This is where watering efforts should be focused. The root ball and the surrounding soil should be kept evenly moist to encourage healthy root growth. It can take two or more growing seasons for a tree to become established and for its roots to venture into the soil beyond the original root ball.

Trees under stress from disease or insect predation and trees in restricted root zones (trees surrounded by pavement) could take longer to establish.

Other important tips

• Avoid fertilizing during drought conditions - synthetic fertilizers can cause root injury when soil moisture is low. Fertilizing in the summer could also cause additional new growth requiring additional moisture to support it.

• A 1 - 2” layer of organic mulch over the root zone of the tree will help to conserve water.

• The goal of watering is to keep roots moist but not wet. Excessively saturated conditions can also damage tree roots.

• A “good rain” or even an irrigation system is not sufficient for most new tree plantings

• During extended periods of drought all trees (including established ones) benefit from supplemental watering.

TJ Nagel & José Fernández posing for a photo for this article! Happy watering, everyone!
© Russell Tree Experts

Remember, proper watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees. I am intentionally redundant on this point because it cannot be overstated. Air temperatures, precipitation, tree health, tree size, soil texture, etc. can all influence a tree's need for water. This article is intended to be a basis for proper tree watering procedures and cannot address every tree watering scenario. Happy watering and may your rain barrels always be full.

TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010

Planting Trees is Easy... Right?

Planting Trees is Easy... Right?

Well that’s what I thought when I took a position years ago (with a different company) where we planted 650 balled and burlapped trees the first year I was there.

I had been in the tree industry for about 10 years at the time but didn’t have a lot of planting experience. We had a backhoe, 4 crew members and all the elementary kids in the city to help us. What could go wrong? Well apparently, a number of things. One of the first things we learned was it doesn’t matter how many times you mention to an elementary student that you should not stand on the root ball or hang on the tree trunk while planting the tree. We also learned that it is very hard to keep the elementary students attention for more than 1 or 2 tree plantings. As it turned out, dealing with the students was the easy part. We quickly learned that digging the planting hole with an inexperienced tree planting backhoe operator was also a mistake. As we discovered the following year, many of our trees were planted way to deep. We also had to deal with large chunks of soil which hinders the ability to avoid air pockets around the root balls and clean up was much harder. We later discovered that using a stump grinder to dig our planting holes was much easier and cleaner.

View fullsize

dotted line indicates the root flare

After that first planting season we noticed that we were losing a number of trees. So instead of just yanking them out of the ground we started inspecting each dead tree to see if we could determine what went wrong. A number of them were simply planted to deep. Remember the backhoe, many of the holes were dug to deep. We didn’t realize how important it is that the root flare be visible at grade or even slightly higher than grade.

After even more inspections we found that we planted the top of the root ball at grade, but the root flares were 6 inches deep in the root ball itself. Some of the trees even tried to develop a second root flare called adventitious roots. After that first year we learned that the majority of our losses were from planting too deep.

As the years went on, we continued to learn from our mistakes. One example that really taught us about planting depth were 6 to 7 English Oaks that we planted at one location where they survived but didn’t really grow much. Plans for the site changed a few months later and we decided to move them to a new location. As we were digging them up, we discovered how deeply they were planted. We were able to move them and planted them at the correct depth. They grew over a foot in the first year after being planted properly. It was like they said, “Thank you”.

Another observation that I made recently was at a small clearing job we did in Canal Winchester. The site was a nursery at one time. Apparently when the property changed hands, they left about 12 to 15 balled and burlapped trees just sitting on the ground near some Norway Spruces. Every one of those trees survived and took root in the ground below them and have been growing for several years. So, I guess if you’re not sure, planting trees higher is better than being planted too deep.

I will be following up this article with a tree planting video at a later date. There are many other tips that we learned the hard way that I will be happy to share later.

Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been a certified arborist since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.

Editor’s Note: Although Russell Tree Experts doesn’t sell or plant trees (other than for our TREE FOR A TREE® program), we highly value the importance of proper tree planting. See our recommended vendors list for your tree purchasing and planting needs.

"Can you recommend a tree that is not messy?"

“Can you recommend a tree that is not messy? One that will not drop fruit, or twigs, or stuff all over the place.” This is perhaps the request I run into the most when someone wants advice on what trees to plant. The first time I heard this one I had to fight the urge to smile and reply that yes, there are trees like that which also happen to be disease-free, not attacked by any pest, grow quickly (instantly, in fact) to the desired size, shape, and color you want them to be and never need to be pruned. The only maintenance required is a yearly power washing to make them as good as new. But I chose to leave that reply unspoken. Sometimes my attempt at harmless humor or a friendly jab in the ribs does not go over well. Of course, dear readers, now I am wondering how many of you are wondering what kind of tree I was thinking of, and where can one be acquired? I will leave that response for another day. In this installment I would like to highlight a different type of tree for you.

I realized this week that there is one shade tree that almost, just almost, fits the bill for being a non-messy tree, with a few caveats. For those who want to know immediately which tree I am thinking of, skip right down to somewhere near the bottom and find the answer. For those who want to test their ability to identify trees, see how many clues are needed before you figure it out… [Some of the following points may be trick statements, designed to point you the wrong way! Read carefully.]

• In prehistory, this tree was native to North America. In more recent history, this tree is considered to be native to somewhere on the other side of the world.

• Like most conifers, this tree is a gymnosperm.

• Some consider the fruit to be edible, and other plant parts are touted to help with hearing disorders. (Is that right? I’m not sure… perhaps if I took more of this herbal remedy I would remember).

• Fruit? Yes, if the tree is female. So definitely make sure you source a male cultivar to stay with the non-messy design requirement. Otherwise this tree will eventually produce loads and loads of fruit, and based on the odor of the fruit alone, you probably would not consider it to be edible in any way. (Actually, I think the nut inside is the edible part. I don’t know many people with the fortitude of character required to get to the nut. Most people downwind of the fallen fruit quickly walk the other way, or cross to the other side of the street).

• As other trees who are the only members of their genus, this tree has no pests or diseases of any importance.

• This tree has a beautiful bright yellow fall color, and is known for dropping all its leaves at once, making leaf cleanup a one-time event.

I recently read an article in Arborist News about these trees. There are very old individuals in China that are visited each year by crowds of people who want to witness the annual leaf fall. Apparently certain trees will drop their leaves on a predictable schedule and people like being a part of that. As I read the article I reflected that I have seen recently fallen leaves under this species, but have never witnessed the sudden leaf drop, nor did I know this happened. When the leaves do fall, there is a soft carpet of bright yellow completely under the tree – this I had seen several times.

This fall I was in a Columbus neighborhood to inspect a nice large Oak tree in the client’s back yard. As I pulled up, I noted a mature Ginkgo planted in the neighbor’s front yard. Lo and behold, it had started dropping leaves that morning of November 8, and was steadily raining leaves. There was a light breeze, so the yellow carpet was stretching into and down the street, and I found myself feeling as if I had received an unexpected gift. I watched the leaves falling for a minute or two, then carried on with my business. The entire time I was in my client’s back yard I could hear the steady soft murmur of falling leaves, and I would walk over to take a peek to see if the stream of leaves changed in any way. The rate of leaf fall remained steady, with increasing waves when the breeze picked up. As the breeze died down, the leaves continued to fall more slowly, making a sound like quiet rain, but with a more distinct, feathery quality. I could see how this would truly be a unique experience, to be somewhere in rural China under an ancient Maidenhair Tree (another name for Ginkgo) watching the leaves fall steadily until the tree remained bare for the winter.

I walked back to my truck and watched the tree some more. I wanted to stay to see if what I had read was true. Would the leaves really all fall off? Some toward the bottom still looked like they had not fully turned yellow yet and I wondered if they would come down too, or wait until later. The morning was beautiful, cold, crisp and clear like they rarely are in fall/winter in Ohio, and I wanted to soak it in. The leaves continued to fall. Thinking back now I am reminded of a poem called Spring Dreams by Li Po (if I recall correctly) that stuck with me after reading it years ago. Different season, but possibly the same sentiment:

In the spring I dream through dawn, but hear birds everywhere, singing.
Oh voice of all night wind and rain, do you count the petals that are falling?

This time I needed to move on, so after a few more moments I got back in my truck thinking I should drive by later to see if the tree had shed all its clothing, or if it would wait demurely until a bit later. I did not make it back that day, and haven’t yet, but I do want to return next year to see if it is on schedule.

As we head toward the end of the year, deeper into winter, I hope this fall memory and this tree will remind you all that the continuing cycle of seasons is assured to us. Maidenhair leaves turn a brilliant yellow, as if giving us one last memory of the summer sun, then are shed voluntarily at their proper time to make way for new growth next season. Life pulses steadily in rhythms that change in color, temperature, and tempo, but the measure carries on. We have much to be thankful for.

Wishing you the best as the end of the year approaches,

José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts

José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.

Don’t Get Fooled by the Fall Color of Conifers!

By TJ Nagel
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® OH-6298B
November 13, 2025

Every fall I get calls from folks concerned about yellow needles on their evergreen trees. Often times I’m told that the trees are sick or that they appear to be dying from the inside out. There are some disease and insect problems that can cause yellowing and premature loss of needles in conifers but most often what people are reporting is just normal fall color.

Yellowing and the loss of old needles in the fall is normal for pine, spruce, arborvitae, hemlock and most evergreen conifers in the midwest. Most conifers shed their needles each year starting in late August and continue through November. Older interior needles will turn yellow while needles further out in the canopy and at the tips of branches will stay green. The yellow needles eventually drop off starting at the top of the tree and working their way to the bottom in a uniform fashion. Taxus (also called Yew) is the exception showing it’s “fall color” in mid to late spring.

Most folks understand and look forward to the fall color change in our maples, oaks, hickories and other hardwood trees — fall needle drop in conifers is as normal as leaf drop in deciduous trees.

The change in color and eventual drop of foliage is simply a physiological response to the shorter days and cooler temperatures as trees (both evergreen and deciduous) prepare themselves for the winter.

Pictured below are some of my favorite conifers showing fall color:

Arborvitae

©Russell Tree Experts

Chaemacyparis

©Russell Tree Experts

Dawn Redwood

©Russell Tree Experts

Dwarf White Pine

©Russell Tree Experts

Hemlock

©Russell Tree Experts

Japanese White Pine

©Russell Tree Experts

Scrub Pine

©Russell Tree Experts

Serbian Spruce

©Russell Tree Experts

White Pine

©Russell Tree Experts

Please note: This article was revised on 11/12/25 and originally published on 11/28/18.

ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!

TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts

TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012 and loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® and well versed in plant pathology and tree ID.

Ask An Arborist: What Should I Plant?

@thearachnidkid: 
We just bought a house with no trees or even shrubs in the yard. We want a bigger shade tree, and some smaller ones. We both want fruit or nut trees. And I love birch trees. We have our lot our house is on and a whole additional lot, so we have plenty of space. Can you recommend some types of trees and tell me when is a good time to plant them?

José Fernández & Joe Russell, Russell Tree Experts:
Prior to planting any new trees, a complete soil analysis of the site is recommended. Match the plant to the site. Native tree selections are best for large, medium, and smaller ornamental trees. Apple trees need to be selected for proper pollination and disease resistance. There are several cold hardy nut trees available. Regarding Birch trees, in Ohio we do not have cold enough winters to kill Bronze Birch Borer which is an insect that will ultimately kill white bark varieties of Birch trees. If soil tests are good, the best choice for a Birch tree in Ohio is River Birch. Other great choices would be large shade trees: Swamp White Oak, Hackberry, Ginkgo or Sugar Maple.  Medium/small trees: black tupelo, Japanese Zelkova, Red bud. Shrubs: spice bush, Korean spice viburnum, Nine bark, oak leaf  hydrangea.