Spring: A Great Time to Fertilize!
By Chris Gill
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6416A
March 5, 2026
Spring is a great time to fertilize trees. As the soil begins to warm up, feeder roots become active and begin to look for nutrients in the soil. A general Spring fertilization provides trees with a boost of macronutrients (typically nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) which are essential to trees as they enter the challenges of a new growing season and require energy to develop new leaves, branches, and roots. Spring fertilization can also benefit trees recovering from the winter stresses of cold temperatures, desiccating winds, and potential exposure to de-icing products around tree roots.
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Using an irrigation lance to deliver nutrients below the surface
At Russell Tree Experts, we fertilize trees through a technique called deep-root fertilization. We perform deep-root fertilization by using a lance to inject liquid fertilizer under pressure deep into the feeder root system in a soluble form that is easy for the tree to take up. This is superior to a traditional surface application where a granular fertilizer is spread over the root system of a tree but still requires time for the product to break down and work itself into the soil. Deep-root fertilization allows nutrients to pass by the competitive roots of turf, weeds, and other ground covers to maximize uptake for the tree. The process of deep root fertilization also helps to loosen up compacted soil around the tree to promote better root growth while also allowing water and oxygen to more easily reach the roots. Compacted soil is a common problem in urban landscapes and can reduce a tree’s ability to access nutrients.
Trees that are showing dieback in the canopy, poor leaf color, stunted growth, or low vigor are all great candidates for fertilization. When putting together a fertilization plan, it is important to also consider tree type and location. Most trees benefit from a general fertilization, but many tree species may require more specific nutrients. Some of these nutrients can be lacking in urban and highly developed environments. For example, many woodland species that grow naturally in low-lying areas (ex: river birch, pin oak, and red maple) often require the addition of manganese to a fertilization program for long-term health and vigor when planted in a residential neighborhood. The specific nutrient for which a tree is deficient may not always be obvious, especially in a young or newly planted tree, but can be determined easily through soil and tissue testing. Russell Tree Experts can provide these testing services as needed.
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Our team member Alex fertilizing an ash tree in Columbus, OH!
Trees in native areas are less likely to require fertilization. This is due to the less disturbed nature of the soil and to the natural breakdown of leaves, sticks, and other organic matter continually providing nutrients to the soil or a “natural fertilization.” Trees in urban or highly developed areas are less likely to experience “natural fertilization” due to interference from hardscapes and through regular landscape maintenance practices including raking out yards and landscape beds.
Soil quality is the key to good tree health and longevity and spring fertilization is a great way to start the soil improvement process. There are various considerations that are made when selecting a fertilizer for your trees including the type of tree and the location of the tree in your landscape. Consulting with one of our certified arborists can help determine the specific nutritional needs of your trees and get the process started! For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was revised and republished on 3/5/26 from its original publish date of 3/5/24.
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Tree Bracing 101
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
February 27, 2024
Trees adorn our landscapes, offering shade, beauty, and a connection to nature. However, ensuring their structural integrity and stability is vital for their longevity. Common tree preservation services that you may be familiar with are tree pruning and mulching. Other uncommon services could be cabling or trunk injections depending on the specific tree. However, throughout my 4+ years of working at Russell Tree Experts, one service that I have not heard of up until this year is tree bracing! Let's delve into the world of tree bracing to understand the process and benefits!
What is Tree Bracing?
Tree bracing? I couldn’t initially picture what this meant when first hearing it. Let’s first break down tree bracing into two words. Tree. Bracing. Tree: A woody, perennial plant typically having a single stem. I know what that is. Brace: To make (something) stronger or firmer, or to prepare for something difficult or unpleasant. So would it be a solid guess that tree bracing is the process of making a tree stronger? Yes! That’s exactly what it is!
Tree bracing is a tree preservation service to reduce the risk of two or more stems from splitting apart or to fasten a split or cracked union together, thus improving the overall structure of your tree. This is achieved through the installation of brace rods to prevent select tree unions from spreading or twisting apart or to prevent a split or cracked union from worsening.
This sounds great! Let’s start bracing every single tree to improve their overall structure! Well, not so fast. Only certain trees will stand to benefit from tree bracing. Just like fertilizing trees with manganese or iron to treat a manganese or iron deficiency, this service is only recommended for trees that need it, otherwise there would be either no noticeable effect or even a decrease in structural rigidity. Just like with pruning, which involves removing (or “wounding”) the tree’s crown of undesired parts, bracing is a semi-invasive procedure that involves installing large threaded steel rods into the trunk of the tree, so we only want to install brace rods when the net result is positive and beneficial.
What Trees Should Be Braced?
So what trees should receive tree bracing? Well, as mentioned earlier, trees with a split or cracked union could benefit from brace rod installation. A split or cracked union should be easy to spot, especially in the winter in the case for deciduous trees as there is little to no foliage. A limb can split or crack due to various reasons like included bark (bark that is partially or fully embedded into the tree’s wood), improper pruning, disease, and storm damage from adverse weather like lightning, heavy winds, rainstorms, and thick layers of ice just to name a few. A split or cracked union can also occur from structural defects like large, long, horizontally growing limbs and codominant stems. If the limb is large and long and growing more horizontal rather than vertical, there could be a lot of weight-related stress near the union that could cause it to split if the limb is not supported properly or if end-weight reduction pruning does not occur. Codominant stems are two similarly sized stems originating from the same point of the tree and growing in the same, general direction. They can be characterized as having a tight “V” shape near the union or by both of the limbs competing to be the central leader of the whole structure. This is not ideal for a tree’s structure as they are prone to splitting during adverse weather conditions. In scenarios where removal of the branch or tree is not viable or preferred, tree bracing serves as a beneficial solution or alternative.
What Are the Benefits to Tree Bracing?
Tree bracing can be beneficial for a tree as they can minimize movement, ensuring the splits or cracks do not occur or worsen, especially during strong weather. A tree with poor structure or a split or cracked union may not want to be removed by the owner as it is a specimen tree (a tree chosen as a point of focus in a landscape) that provides aesthetics, shade, real estate value, or more. For some trees, it may also be unnecessary to remove them simply because of one or two weak, treatable unions that could even be healed over time. Tree bracing aims to improve the tree’s structure at a choice union and to give its owner more peace of mind that a union or limb has a decreased chance of failing, which would potentially end the tree’s life, or to keep it from falling onto something like a house, car, driveway, or anything else near the tree.
The Tree Bracing Process
Here at Russell Tree Experts, we use the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices to help guide us! With that said, before tree bracing begins, we typically prune the tree's crown to reduce weight and then install one or more cables in the crown to support the suspect union(s) from above. Once these initial steps are complete, we install a specified size and quantity of brace rods in your tree in accordance with the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices. The size and quantity is determined by factors such as the tree’s diameter below the union, number of limbs or unions being cared for, and whether or not there is or is not a split or crack present. To install the brace rods, holes are drilled straight through the tree near the union. The threaded brace rods are then fully inserted and will have excess rod on both ends. The brace rods are then secured with one or more washers, a lock washer, and a nut on both ends. The connections are then tightened as firmly as possible. Afterwards, the excess length of threaded rod is cut off close to the nuts and subsequently peened off to prevent any movement of the nuts. And voila! The end result is a tree with increased structural integrity and a reduced chance of failing!
I talked with my coworker Jacob, our Training & Development Manager and an ISA certified arborist, read through the ANSI A300 Tree Support System Best Management Practices, and looked at other resources online to see if it was an acceptable practice to drill holes through a tree to install brace rods. After considering a variety of sources, the general consensus is that the overall impact is minor because almost all of the drilled wounds are filled with threaded steel rod (except a 1/32'' gap), allowing the tree to compartmentalize the wounds rapidly, and that tree bracing should be done on trees that have a bigger concern to worry about, such as two codominant stems or a split union.
Professional assessment is imperative to determine the necessity of bracing for a tree. Signs such as co-dominant stems or split or cracked unions should prompt owners to get an opinion from an ISA certified arborist. After researching, observing, recording, and photographing various trees being braced, I felt empowered and motivated to share my newfound knowledge on this not-so-commonly heard of tree preservation service! The main purpose of this Arbor Ed article is to educate and share my findings, but Russell Tree Experts does provide tree bracing services should you want or need it! Our regional managers are all ISA certified arborists and can provide a free inspection and quote! Below are some videos about tree bracing!
Learn More About Tree Bracing!
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
Root for Your Roots!
By Mitch Lippencott
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6715A
October 30, 2025
A tree is only as healthy as its roots. Luckily, Russell Tree Experts offers a variety of root-health services! The powerhouse of our root-health services is the air spade. This excavating tool, when attached to a powerful air compressor, is capable of removing soil without damaging tree roots. (Full disclosure and fun fact: air spading is my very favorite type of tree care to perform!)
Root Collar Excavation
“Say NO to Girdling Roots!”
The most common root-health service is root collar excavation. In this procedure, our technician begins at the tree's trunk and removes soil approximately a foot outwards to reveal the root system closest to the tree. From here, roots that are squeezing the trunk or each other can be selectively removed, thus improving the passage of water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves. Once the soil near the trunk is removed, additional improvements can be made such as removing twine, burlap, or other nursery products left during planting, or correcting the soil depth of trees planted too deep. In my experience, this is the single most beneficial process to long-term tree health. Maples and sweetgums are especially prone to girdling roots. Stem girdling roots are no good because they inhibit the flow of water and nutrients for a tree. Signs of trunk girdling in other trees include lack of flare at the base (which indicates the tree is planted too deep), flat spots in the otherwise round trunk, early fall color and leaf drop, and excessive stress during summer drought. Root collar excavations should be performed in winter when trees are dormant, but when the ground is not frozen.
In limited quantities, roots can also be exposed and pruned to prevent damage to patios, driveways, or underground utilities. This method of root removal is far less damaging to tree health than traditional shovel/backhoe techniques. An ISA Certified Arborist® should always be consulted before this type of work is performed because excessive root removal can cause instability and rapid tree death. Air spade trenching and root removal can be performed year-round except in the case of some trees that may be highly stressed or experiencing severe drought conditions.
Even when a tree is planted at the proper depth, has plenty of soil space, and with no girdling, the trunk can still benefit from root-health services. We offer three related, but progressively more intensive options to treat the entire root zone and not just the area around the trunk.
Vertical Mulching
Vertical Mulching
The first is vertical mulching, in which the technician removes soil in small bursts radiating outward from the trunk and extending the entire drip-line of the tree. The small but 8-12 inch deep cavities are then replaced with a porous and nutrient-rich compost blend. The result is a looser, more aerated soil structure for new roots and beneficial microorganisms to expand into. This service can be provided almost year-round (frozen ground/drought excluded) and is my go-to for mature trees on undisturbed sites that are beginning to lack vigor.
Radial Trenching
Radial Trenching
One step up, radial trenching is a similar procedure, but instead of small bursts, the soil is removed in continuous lines radiating outward the length of the canopy. I prefer this technique for new builds and areas with recent compaction, urban sites, and situations where old trees are beginning to decline. This is another almost year-round service.
Root zone Invigoration
The most extensive of entire root zone services we offer is root zone invigoration. In this technique, we use the air spade to remove all the grass, soil, or competing plants sitting on top of the tree's root system. We then correct any girdling and planting depth problems. Finally, we replace the entire space with our compost blend. This is a big, messy, expensive procedure but often the best solution when a valued small to medium-sized tree is being damaged by mowers, vandalism, or when there is an especially dense or aggressive plant growing above the root zone. I prefer this service to occur during winter dormancy, but in extreme cases, it can be performed any time roots are too restricted to function properly.
It’s easy to forget about your trees while they're sitting leafless in winter - but late fall and winter can be an incredibly opportune time to give them attention. Caring for your tree's roots is often more beneficial than pruning, spraying fungicides, or almost any other plant health care service. For a free tree work quote from one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call us at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 1/29/2024 and was revised on 10/30/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mitch Lippencott I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mitchell Lippencott joined Russell Tree Experts in 2020 and has been in the green industry for over 20+ years with a diverse background ranging from working for a landscape design company, a retail garden center, and two municipalities! Mitch is an alum from The Ohio State University, a licensed pesticide applicator, a qualified tree risk assessor, and an ISA Certified Arborist®. Outside of work, he enjoys traveling, cooking, and gardening.
Tree Work in the Winter?
By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
January 2, 2026
“Can we get this work scheduled before winter kicks in?” “Do you complete tree work during the winter?” These are questions that I am often asked as the hibernal or winter soltice has arrived. In many cases, winter is the only time we can complete certain projects. This is due to the fact that many diseases and insects are not active, canopy visibility is increased, impact on landscapes is lessened due to winter’s colder conditions, and wildlife regulations are not in effect. Winter can be the perfect time for tree work.
Nitidulid beetles can transmit oak wilt between March 31st and October 15th, making this an unideal time to prune oak trees. On the flip side, October 15th to March 31st is the preferred time prune oak trees as nitidulid beetles will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of oak wilt.
Winter is an opportune time for tree pruning to minimize the risk of insect and disease issues. For oak trees and elm trees, oak wilt and Dutch elm disease respectively are two devastating diseases that are be transmitted by insects (and root grafts) attracted to fresh pruning cuts. (Learn more here!) These insects are typically not active during the winter months, thus making approximately October 15th to March 31st the preferred time to prune oak and elm trees. If pruning cuts are required outside of this time window due to reasons such as storm damage, we highly recommend painting the cuts to minimize the risk of attracting the insects that can spread these diseases. Other trees that can benefit from winter pruning is the Rosaceae family which includes apples, pears, plums, and other fruit-bearing trees. The pathogens that infect many of these trees with diseases such as fire blight and black knot are typically not active during the winter months. Black knot is also much easier to see and prune out when the leaves are not present on our plum trees. Sanitation between cuts and proper disposal of these branches is imperative to slow down the spread of this disease.
Another reason for performing tree work during the winter months is the minimization of turf impact. Winter typically provides an absence of perennial and annual plants that are often planted under trees. Clients also tend to store their yard art, furniture, and other items that could be damaged during pruning and removal operations. This allows for our crews to be more efficient as less time is spent preparing the drop zone and moving items to a safe location prior to beginning any tree work. Thirdly, the winter months tend to be colder which provides a harder, sturdier ground that is more resilient to damage from limbs or equipment. As always, we do place mats on the ground if turf impact is a concern regardless of the time of year. Therefore, winter pruning becomes much more productive since there are fewer items that could be damaged otherwise.
Certain job sites such as golf courses, public parks, and street tree pruning, just to name a few, are performed during the winter months as there tends to be less pedestrians, allowing for better focus, less interference, minimized risk, and overall a more efficient and safe work zone.
With the absence of leaves on the trees, it is much easier for the trained eye to identify structural issues. Some structural issues may require a cable or even brace rods to secure your favorite tree in your landscape. Winter is also a great time to observe decay, fungi, or other pathogens that may not be visible during the summer when leaves are abundant and present. It is also the best time to observe cavities throughout the tree that may not be noticed while leaves are present. Dead, diseased, and broken branches are also much more visible when the leaves are not present in the winter months. Our arborists are trained to be able to identify the difference between dead and live branches even during the winter months. This time also allows the arborist to make quick decisions on improving the structure of the tree while pruning in the most efficient time of the year.
One example of projects that must be completed during the winter is anything that falls under federal bat tree regulations. This typically includes public property projects where large trees need to be removed or the removal of any tree that could be a nesting site for bats. These regulations are intended to protect the Indiana Bat and the Northern Long-eared Bat, which are both currently endangered species. The importance of bats in our ecosystem is a story in itself. Bats typically overwinter in caves but move out to their nesting sites as early as April, therefore removal of possible nesting sites is regulated from March 31 through October 1. This is the main reason that the majority of our clearing operations and trail creation projects are completed during the winter months. To learn more about endangered bats in Ohio, read here!
As you can see, there are many beneficial reasons and scenarios to have tree work performed in the winter! Every day can be a good day for tree care. Check out the video below to learn more. To request a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or give us a call at (614) 895-7000 to speak with our friendly, local office staff!
[Please note: This article was revised and republished on 1/2/26 from its original publish date of 1/10/24.]
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in September 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
10 Boxwood Alternatives
Dear Reader,
My introduction into the horticultural world was working at a small retail nursery in the early 2000s. Back then, when a customer would ask for an easy to grow, low maintenance, no brainer plant, boxwood is what we would often recommend. Fast forward twenty years and today boxwood have to contend with boxwood leaf miner, boxwood psyllid, spider mites, volutella stem canker, winterburn, boxwood blight and most recently, a new disease known as boxwood dieback. Historically, Boxwood have been appreciated in the landscape because they are evergreen, deer proof, compact, easy to manipulate and respond well to pruning/shearing. But they are no longer the maintenance free, easy to grow plants they once were. 2023 was a particularly bad year for boxwood in central Ohio and every arborist, landscaper and plant person I know was overwhelmed with calls from desperate clients willing to try anything to restore their boxwood to how they once looked. Many of the boxwood installations I observed this year are beyond preservation. Others will likely recover over the next two to three growing seasons but may look a little rough along the way. Much of the damage that occurred to boxwood this year is a result of the cold weather event we had just before the holiday season of 2022, where temperatures changed from 40 degrees Fahrenheit into the negatives in less than 12 hours. There is no topical spray or any professional service that can be offered to combat this sort of environmental event. And many of the boxwood that were able to survive the initial cold temperatures succumbed later to disease spreading pathogens seeking a stressed and vulnerable host. Even under normal weather conditions, most boxwood require regular applications of insecticides and dormant oils to protect them from insect pests that have taken advantage of their abundance. The best management strategy for the prevention of disease and insect pests on our plants is to use plants that do not get those diseases and insect pests. So as you are wrapping up your Fall landscape plantings or making plans for next Spring, consider something new for your hedges, accent plants and foundation plantings. Here are 10 suggestions for plants to consider with similar characteristics to boxwood.
1. Blue Holly
Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) is a hybrid between the cold hardy Asian prostrate holly (Ilex rugosa) and English holly (Ilex aquifolium). It is one of my personal favorite evergreen shrubs and has lustrous dark green/blue leaves and dark red berries on female plants that ultimately feed the robins and mockingbirds around late winter to early spring. Individual plants form a shrubby upright to pyramidal habit and can grow 8 to 12 feet in height by 6 to 8 feet in width. Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) can easily be pruned into hedges and can be kept at any height or width with minimal, annual pruning. They are cold hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit and adaptable to both full sun or partial shade. Several cultivated varieties of this hybrid exist with my personal favorites being Blue Princess and Blue Prince.
NOTE: Holly plants require a male pollinator to achieve fruit. Make sure to include at least one male plant (like Blue Prince), and possibly more depending on the size of your Holly plantings to improve fruiting.
Negatives: Blue holly (Ilex x meserveae) can have significant leaf burn when temperatures drop below -10 degrees Fahrenheit (although established plants recover quickly in the Spring). They are susceptible to phytophthora (root rot) in poorly drained sites and deer browsing during the winter when snow persists for days at a time.
2. Privet
Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is a densely branched shrub with dark green to yellowish green leaves that can easily be manipulated into rounded plants and hedges. Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is fast growing and adaptable to a wide range of soils and growing conditions; I’ve observed many well kept privet hedges that would give boxwood a run for its money during the spring or summer. The foliage persists late into the fall often turning purple but is not evergreen. There are no serious disease or insect problems and oftentimes plants seem to thrive with neglect. Several different species and many different cultivars exist for a range of size, texture and leaf color.
Negatives: Privet (Ligustrum spp.) is not native to central Ohio and can easily spread by seed into native areas and out compete native species. They are also not evergreen.
3. Wintercreeper euonymus
Until recently I have always considered this species of euonymus to be best used as a ground cover or climber on a tree or trellis. More and more though, I’m seeing it in the landscape pruned into a very small and cute hedge or sculpted into 1 to 2 feet tall and wide mounds looking very similar to boxwood. Euonymus in general is fast growing and adaptable from full sun, to full shade, and to just about any landscape situation that isn’t a swamp. Leaves are evergreen most winters (leaf drop can occur when temps drop below -20 F) and there are dozens of cultivated varieties for leaf size and color. I’m partial to the green and white variegated cultivar ‘Emerald Gaiety.’
Negatives: Wintercreeper euonymus (Euonymus fortunei) is not native and can easily naturalize and take over unmanaged native areas. They can be susceptible to euonymus scale and difficult to treat successfully once a population is established.
4. Spirea
There are several species and dozens of different cultivars of spirea that mimic the compact and rounded habit of boxwood. They can be grown as separate plants, planted in masses or managed as a hedge. Spirea can grow in most landscape situations and will perform well in any soil that is not excessively wet. Spirea are easy to grow, have little insect or disease problems, respond well to pruning and shearing, and are cold hardy and adaptable to full sun and partial shade. Spirea are deciduous but even without leaves, the stems and twigs are so dense that the structure of the plant still provides texture and interest in the winter landscape.
Negatives: Spirea are not evergreen. They can get powdery mildew but it has little impact on the overall health of the plant. Spirea may also be somewhat overused in the landscape but for good reason - it is almost impossible to kill.
5. Japanese HollY
Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is another compact evergreen shrub with a rounded habit and dark green foliage through the growing season and through the winter. They can grow 3 to 5 feet in height and width, although I have observed larger plants in arboreta. Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is cold hardy to - 20 degrees Fahrenheit and adaptable to both full sun or partial shade. They respond well to pruning/shearing and can be used in hedges, foundation plantings, or in masses. Several different cultivars are available for different sizes, colors, and superior cold hardiness.
Negatives: Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is slow growing and not tolerant of high pH soils. They are a preferred host to spider mites during extended periods of drought. Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) is not well known in Ohio and could be difficult to source. I would avoid using the upright cultivar ‘Sky pencil’ unless in a warmer protected spot with exceptionally well drained soil.
6. Globe arborvitae
Globe arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Globosa’ or ‘Little Gem’) is a compact and rounded form of our native eastern arborvitae. Its leaves are bright green in the spring and summer but turn more bronze or yellowish green during the winter months. Globosa arborvitae is a dwarf form and matures to only 5 to 6 feet tall and wide. They are very adaptable to different soil types and respond well to pruning and shearing. Globosa arborvitae can be used as a specimen plant or accent plant as well as in hedges or foundation plantings. Little gem arborvitae has essentially the same habit as globosa arborvitae but are smaller, maturing to a height of about only 3 feet tall. Either cultivar will perform well from full sun to partial shade (but they should have at least a half day of sunlight).
Negatives: Deer will eat arborvitae to bare wood when hungry. They are also a preferred host to bagworm and spider mites.
7. Yew
Yew (Taxus spp.) is a hardy and easy to grow evergreen shrub. I use them primarily for screening in the parts of my garden that receive less sun, but they can be easily manipulated and sculpted into tight hedges, mazes, and formal shapes in the same fashion that we often treat boxwood. Yew are very adaptable and urban tolerant and can withstand almost any amount of pruning. They will grow well in sun and shade and have few disease or pest problems. If they are used as an alternative to boxwood, I recommend the cultivars ‘Runyan’ or ‘Densiformis’.
Negatives: Yew are susceptible to deer browsing
8. Japanese Plum Yew
Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) is similar to yew, but with longer and glossier needles. I have planted this in more than one rural location and my experience so far is that deer will not touch them. Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) should be considered by anyone that likes yew but has given up because of continual deer damage. There are several different cultivars selected for a range of different sizes and habits but ‘Duke Gardens’ is the cultivar I recommend for central Ohio gardens and for anyone wishing to experiment with using Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) to replace boxwood. This cultivar matures to approximately 2 to 3 feet in height, approximately 3 to 4 feet in width and is cold hardy to - 20 degree fahrenheit. There are no serious pest or disease problems.
Negatives: Straight species is not cold hardy in true zone 5 winters (winters that reach -20 F). I observed significant winterburn in the plants in my garden from the cold snap we had just before the holiday season of 2022.
9. Inkberry
This is one of the boxwood alternatives that I think has the most potential. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) is native to the east coastal plains of the US and is a compact evergreen shrub with lustrous, dark green leaves during the growing season. Foliage can bronze somewhat during the winter months. Without pruning, inkberry (Ilex glabra) can reach heights of 6 to 8 feet tall with a width of 8 to 10 feet wide. Female plants can produce a small, pea-sized black berry (hence the name inkberry) that is edible to birds. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) performs well from full sun to full shade (foliage density is better with at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight) and is cold hardy to - 20 degrees fahrenheit; although I have observed winterburn in exposed plants during winters with temperatures that have dropped below zero for extended periods of time. Inkberry (Ilex glabra) responds quite well to heavy pruning or shearing and has strong regenerative growth in established plants. They can easily be used as individual specimen plants or in hedges. I recommend using the cultivars ‘Cape Cod’ or ‘Compacta’ if available. These selections maintain a more rounded and compact habit with less pruning.
Negatives: Inkberry (Ilex glabra) is not tolerant of excessively high pH soils and plants can lose lower leaves and become quite leggy if not well managed. I have observed significant deer browsing during periods of extended snow cover in landscapes with a high deer population.
10. Canadian Hemlock
Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is one of my favorite evergreen trees. It is a native and graceful evergreen tree with glossy dark green needles that also responds well to aggressive pruning. When my wife and I moved into our current home in 2008, we planted 36 Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) on 5 foot centers around the perimeter of our front and side yards. We keep these plants sculpted into a tight 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide pyramidal shaped hedge which we prune once a year in the late spring, approximately a month after new growth has pushed out. This could make an excellent replacement for a tall boxwood hedge.
Negatives: Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is susceptible to deer browsing during the winter months with extended periods of snow. They are a preferred host to spruce spider mites when under stress. Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) also have poor tolerance to drought.
These 10 plants are just the beginning of the conversation regarding boxwood alternatives. There are dozens of other cultivated varieties of chamaecyparis, juniper, spruce, pine, fir, leucothoe, etc that could fulfill the same niche in many of our gardens. I believe there is a perfect substitute out there for every plant. The perfect substitute for your needs will depend on your individual situation and landscape.
Sincerely,
TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.
Illustrations by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts
The Year of the Ugly Boxwood
Dear Reader, My good friend and arborist colleague Cat Baumgartner wrote the below article for the Inniswood Garden Society’s quarterly member newsletter (known as The Image). As soon as I read it, I knew that I wanted to share it with all our readers. Cat does a thorough job of describing the most serious problems we have had with boxwood this year and she explains them well and in simple terms. She has generously agreed to let us republish it. Photos within the body of Cat’s article are courtesy of Joe Boggs, OSU extension educator for Hamilton County.- TJ Nagel, Russell Tree ExpertsThe Year of The
Ugly Boxwood
by cat Baumgartner, Oakland Nursery
I don’t have a simple answer. Or there are multiple answers, and your boxwood might have one, or several of the problems at once.
I’ll go over the likely suspects for this year- including winter damage, or ‘winter burn’, Boxwood Leafminer, Volutella Blight, and THE Boxwood Blight.
I’ll start with winter burn. Boxwood store a lot of their energy in their leaves through the winter. When we get extreme cold and wind in the winter, the leaves will lose more moisture. If the ground is frozen or dry (or worse, both), the leaves lose moisture faster than the roots can replace it, and we get the ‘burn’, where they turn a straw color and die, staying attached to the stem. It wasn’t noticeable until early spring, because evergreens have a delayed reaction to stress. It’s why we can cut down trees for Christmas and they don’t immediately turn brown, often lasting months. We did have greater than normal rainfall last year, but the three months leading up to late December were on the dry side. So, the ground was dry leading up to the extreme cold event that hit in late December creating a Double Whammy. There was a lot more winter burn this spring than I’ve seen in decades. It looks like straw-colored sections in the shrubs, often in a random pattern.
Next, there are different blights out there that can affect boxwood. ‘Blight’ is a general term for a plant disease, typically caused by a type of fungus. Most of them are less common and less damaging than the blight striking fear in the hearts of gardeners that is Calonectria pseudonaviculata, called simply “Boxwood Blight”. There have been some isolated cases in the Greater Columbus area. The main symptom though is defoliation. You’ll have green leaves, then they’ll start looking funny, and rapidly progress and fall off the stem. In a matter of weeks, you can go from a healthy-looking plant to one with sections with completely naked stems. Definitive identification requires lab testing. Other blights can show similar symptoms, but since some are more treatable, confirming which type of blight your boxwood might have is recommended before removing plants. If you do have “Boxwood Blight,” replanting with more boxwood is not recommended, so confirmation of what kind of blight you have will also tell you what you can plant in that spot. Most of the damage we’ve been seeing is NOT “Boxwood Blight.”
Volutella Blight or Pseudonectria Canker (Pseudonectria buxi) can be damaging but is not necessarily a death sentence often just affecting individual stems and not whole portions of the plant. Symptoms can be seen if the stem is sliced into, showing dark brown streaking just under the bark. Most twigs infected with Volutella blight will turn straw colored and die. In most cases dead stems from Volutella canker can be easily pruned out and the remaining portions of the boxwood will fill in slowly over time.
This year we also had frost damage in May. If leaf buds are still tight, frost is not a problem. If the new leaves have emerged, but have ‘hardened off’, it is also not a problem. But if the new growth is timed so that it is new, fresh and tender, and then we have a late freeze, the new growth is damaged, turns that sad straw color, and is aesthetically at least, a problem. A healthy shrub can put out another round of growth, and it is not a long-term problem. Trimming off the burnt new growth is all that needs doing.
Boxwood Leafminer, an insect pest, is an ongoing problem. The damage from leaf miner is more generalized, an ‘all-over’ bad look rather than the chunky sections dying back. The adults lay eggs in the new growth in mid-spring, and as the larval stage hatches and begins to feed on the interior tissues, the leaves start looking bad, often having a blistered or bubbled effect, usually easier to see from the bottom of the leaf.
Preventative sprays can thwart adult leafminers from laying eggs in the new growth, but need to be applied as you see the new growth. Systemics applied in the Fall or Spring can also provide control but know that boxwoods are insect pollinated.
If you don’t have Boxwood blight, you have two options. Cut out the dead branches and let the plants regrow which may take three years or more to totally restore, in good condition, or replace the plants.
A Final Note…
Since Cat wrote her article, we have had several boxwood shrubs test positive for yet another disease, Colletotrichum theobromicola (also referred to as boxwood dieback). This is a new disease for central Ohio and symptoms look similar to other blight diseases with the random dieback of twigs and straw-colored foliage. However, in addition to twig dieback, the pathogen also causes leaf spots that appear white in the center surrounded by dark brown margins as well as a bright black discoloration just beneath the bark along the twigs. The jury is still out on the best way to attempt to manage this disease but for now, good cultural practices such as removing symptomatic plants and sterilizing pruning tools between pruning different plants are the best-known strategies. Fungicides might also be helpful, but efficacy has not been determined. Laboratory testing should be used to confirm boxwood dieback because it can easily be misdiagnosed as other blight diseases.
As we continue to have more problems in the landscape with boxwood, it may be time to consider alternative plants that can achieve a similar function. Stay tuned for my boxwood replacement article later this Fall.
Sincerely,
TJ Nagel I Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
TJ loves trees. He is an avid gardener and plant collector. TJ graduated from The Ohio State University with a B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology. TJ is an ISA Board Certified Master Arborist and well versed in Plant Pathology. TJ joined Russell Tree Experts in 2012.
The Oak Wilt Defense
The fall season is approaching, and cooler weather is hopefully just right around the corner. With changing temperatures, all our trees are going to be going through a change as well. As we enter the dormant season, we will be gifted with…
By Lindsey Rice
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6739A
November 6, 2025
Fall and cooler weather is here! With changing temperatures, all our trees are going to be going through a change as well. As we enter the dormant season, we will be gifted with vibrant leaf colors on all our deciduous trees. The dormant season doesn’t just refer to leaf senescence and the weather getting colder; disease-carrying insects also enter the stage in their lifecycle where they do not pose as big of a threat to our landscape. In recent studies it has been found that from October 15th to March 31st, the Nitidulid beetles that spread Oak Wilt disease will not be actively feeding in the Midwest, thus reducing the risk of infection with the fungal disease. Nitidulid beetles are insects that feed on the sap of trees. When a beetle feeds on the sap of an infected tree, it can move to a new susceptible oak tree and spread the disease. These beetles are most attracted to fresh open wounds, such as a new pruning cut.
All oak species are susceptible to the disease, but oak wilt is most damaging to the red oak group. The fungal infection causes xylem vessels to clog, leading the host of the disease to wilt and then die as quickly as within one growing season. Thus far, we have been unable to treat any infected oak tree with any success. We have treated some healthy trees in the area with a preventative fungal application, especially those close to a confirmed case of the disease.
Unfortunately, these beetles are not the only way that this disease is spread. It is also spread via root grafts of neighboring infected trees. Root grafts can connect oak trees underground and transmit the disease from more than 50 feet away. When there is a known infected tree in the vicinity of other oak trees, root disruption may be recommended, even after the infected tree and stump have been removed.
What can you do if you have Oak trees on your property? Be sure to have them pruned during the appropriate time of year between October 15th and March 31st. If you must prune an Oak tree outside of this window, ensure the wounds are sealed with latex paint to limit the beetles' ability to transmit the disease. If you suspect any of your trees have this disease, please call us, and we can advise you on the next step to confirm a diagnosis. Note that this is the same pruning window for Elm trees as well, so we may help limit the spread of Dutch Elm Disease.
Recently, we had ISA Board Certified Master Arborist® José Fernández, an oak wilt expert and a former RTE employee, visit our office and give a presentation on oak wilt disease to our arborists. Check it out down below!
Enjoy the colorful autumn season! For a free tree work quote by one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or call our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was updated on 11/6/2025, but originally published on 9/28/2023.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Lindsey Rice | Operations Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. In her free time she loves to spend it outdoors with her husband and daughters.
———
Additional Resources & Sources for this Article:
“New Disease Control Measures for Oak & Elm Trees” Article (2021)
“Oak Wilt in Franklin County” Article (2017)
Anatomical Upgrades for Your Trees!
When you think of anatomy, what comes to mind? I think of humans specifically, and learning about the wonderful bone and organ systems in our body in middle school science class. You may think about the anatomy of various animals and how there is an abundance of variety depending on where you are in the world, but how often do we consider the anatomy of trees?
Surely trees are just trees, right? They grow without us even considering how or why they may grow in the ways that they do. We may be blissfully unaware of their anatomy or structure until we are confronted by the reality of a winter ice storm or a summer thunderstorm. Oftentimes, we may find trees with less-than-desirable structure having taken damage after these events, or worse, having caused property damage along with their own demise!
You may be asking yourself, what does poor tree anatomy look like? The answer to that question deserves its own article, however a majority of tree structural problems can be narrowed down to codominance, and that is what I want to address in this article. Codominance is when a tree has two or more similarly-sized trunks emerging from the same location and forming a distinct “V” shaped union. There are varying reasons as to why a tree may be codominant, and some species have natural habits that lend themselves to becoming codominant.
Visual representation of codominance by Jacob Nau
To give you a visual representation of codominance, bring your elbows together in front of your chest, with your palms facing you. Now, spread your wrists apart, keeping your elbows together to form a distinctive V shape. Opening up your fingers you can picture the crown of a tree. Seems like an awkward, weak position to be in, right? Now, imagine adding the weight of tree branches, leaves, rain and 15-50 mph wind gusts, etc. (trees can go through a lot!), while you strain to keep your elbows together, and you can begin to imagine why a codominant union (V-shaped union) in a tree is not anatomically advantageous.
So what can be done to fix, or even prevent, codominant structure in a tree? The answer to this question largely depends on the age of the tree. If your tree is young and generally under the age of approximately 20 years, then a structural pruning plan can be performed to help guide the tree out of its codominance over the next 5-10 years.
However, if your tree is large and mature, there are a number of services that can be used to help support your tree's anatomy. Those services include:
End-Weight Reductions
Reduce the length of long, lateral branches in the tree’s crown to reduce the weight and levering effect on the codominant union below. Typically performed before or with a cabling support system.
Jacob Nau performing an end-weight reduction on a tree. © Russell Tree Experts
Cabling Support System
Install a single, or multiple, static steel cable(s), or dynamic rope cable(s) in the tree’s crown to support the codominant union below.
A static cabling system in a Hackberry tree in Clintonville, Ohio. © Russell Tree Experts
Through-Brace Support System
Install a system of steel threaded rods into the codominant union to strengthen that area of the trunk. This is usually performed in-tandem with a cabling support system.
Top Left: Final result of a brace rod installation. Top Right: Close-up of a singular, installed brace rod. Bottom Left: Side profile of two installed brace rods. Bottom Right: A brace rod about to be inserted. © Russell Tree Experts
Propping Support System
Install a single, or multiple, semi-permanent wood prop(s) to support a lower, large lateral limb to ease the strain on a codominant union. This is a more unique way to support the tree's anatomy, specifically for low, long, and lateral limbs that are difficult to support with a cabling system.
A tree prop supporting a limb from the Angel Oak tree in South Carolina. © Russell Tree Experts
All of the services listed above, including the young-tree structural pruning, are services we perform at Russell Tree Experts. I highly encourage you to look out your window and consider your tree's anatomy! Can they be supported? Is it time for an anatomical upgrade? If so, give our local office a call at (614) 895-7000 and we will happily connect you with one of our Regional Managers to assist you in determining the best course of action for your trees!
Sincerely,
Jacob Nau I Training and Development Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Jacob is an ISA certified arborist and joined RTE in 2018. He has been involved in tree care for over 10 years. He enjoys climbing trees both recreationally and professionally and in his free time, he loves spending time with his family.
Magnolia Scale: They're Back!
By Mike McKee
ISA Certified Arborist®
August 7, 2025
Is your magnolia tree turning black? Is it attracting ants, flies, bees and wasps? Is there a sticky substance covering the leaves and everything under the plant? If you look closely, you will also see white blotches on the twigs throughout the tree.
Over the last few years, this recent invasion of magnolia scale in central Ohio has been intense and unlike what I have observed back in the 2010s. They happen to thrive in warm summers with abundant moisture. The population is building and is very apparent this year.
© Russell Tree Experts
The insect overwinters on twigs and is inconspicuous to the untrained eye until it starts feeding and producing honeydew. Honeydew is the very sweet, sticky substance secreted by the insect that in turn coats the leaves and anything under the plant. This is what attracts other insects to the plant. Eventually the insect covers itself with a waxy coating that protects it while feeding. These are the white blotches we are now seeing on the plants starting early summer through August.
Nymphs emerging from a recently plucked adult Magnolia Scale. © Russell Tree Experts
The juvenile stage of magnolia scale emerges from these waxy coatings (the adults) in mid to late August through September as crawlers. This is when scale are most vulnerable to insecticides and we attempt to control their population. We typically recommend 2 to 3 topical insecticide sprays during this period spaced a couple weeks apart for the best control of the insect due to the extended emergence. During seasons with larger infestations, it is unlikely that insecticide sprays will completely eliminate this insect. The overall goal of plant healthcare is to keep the population at a threshold that minimizes damage and maintains aesthetics of the host tree.
If the tree’s owner is concerned about the population of magnolia scale before the appropriate window for insecticide applications is open, there are a few DIY options that can be done. First, the insects can be scrubbed off from branches and leaves in June and July. This is when the adults are visible before the hatch begins. You could also prune out heavily infested Interior branches to help reduce numbers. Be sure to completely dispose of any pruned branches as the insect will still hatch. Spraying the trees with a medium pressure garden hose can also eliminate some insects as well as reduce the honeydew on the plants.
The insects feed by sucking sap out of the tree. If left untreated the scale population can grow to levels that will cause decline and eventual death in your tree.
Another issue with magnolia scale is the occurrence of sooty mold which is a byproduct of the honeydew produced by the scale. It is a black fungal growth which is what most people notice first. Although this generally does not harm the tree, it is very unsightly.
In closing, if you suspect your magnolia tree has magnolia scale, give us a call at (614) 895-7000 or visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote and one of our 25+ ISA Certified Arborists® will visit your property to come out and complete an inspection! From there, we can recommend the best management strategy for your magnolia tree. Timing is everything.
Please note: This article was originally published on 8/9/2023 and was revised and republished on 8/7/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Mike McKee | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Mike graduated from Hocking College in 1983 with a degree in Natural Resources specializing in urban tree care. He has been an ISA Certified Arborist® since 1991. Mike started his career in the private industry in 1985 before becoming a municipal arborist in 1989. He retired after serving thirty years before joining us at Russell Tree Experts in Sept. of 2018. His love of trees has never waned since trying to climb up the ridges of the massive Cottonwood tree in front of his childhood home.
Spotted Lanternfly: They Are Getting Close!
If you are among those of us in the tree or insect world, you’ve likely heard of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF). This pest showed up in the Southeastern region of our neighboring state of Pennsylvania in 2014. This is an invasive sap sucking insect that has the potential to disrupt a variety of industries.
If you are among those of us in the tree or insect world, you’ve likely heard of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF). This pest showed up in the Southeastern region of our neighboring state of Pennsylvania in 2014. This is an invasive sap sucking insect that has the potential to disrupt a variety of industries. The preferred host is the infamous Tree of Heaven which initially may sound like good news; let’s have an invasive insect wipe out an invasive plant! (See TJ’s article about Tree of Heaven). However, Tree of Heaven is not its only target. If Tree of Heaven isn’t around, it will simply jump onto the nearest tree until it finds something it likes. SLF has been documented feeding on over 100 different species of plants. The most susceptible, other than Tree of Heaven, is Grapevine, apple and peach trees, hops, blueberries, Black Walnuts, and Maples, but again, this pest doesn't discriminate! Another reason why it is so invasive is that it doesn’t have any natural predators. The flashy color on the Spotted Lanternfly warns potential predators that “I don’t taste good!”
The OSU Extension office is currently researching best treatment options. Unfortunately, so far, they do not have any recommendations but we are watching the situation closely and when we have more information, we will give everyone an update. For now, it’s important to be aware of the potential infestation in your area and monitor. If you see any suspected SLF activity, report it to the OSU Extension office and they will confirm.
What can we do to slow the spread?
Known areas of infestation in Pennsylvania have a quarantine mandate requiring to go through a checklist before traveling or moving within or out of the quarantined area. In Ohio, the Department of Agriculture has put together this checklist to help slow the spread of this pest.
If eggs are found, you can scrape the eggs into a bag to seal them/crush them or kill them in an alcohol solution. During these early stages of spread, it is important to document anything you find; please take pictures of any suspected Spotted Lanternfly or collect a sample if possible and send it to the OSU Extension office along with the location you collected the sample.
So far, six populations of Spotted Lanternfly in been confirmed in Ohio:
To do now:
Look for egg masses. They lay eggs from September-December and are hard to see but we need to search and destroy them! The eggs will start hatching this spring, likely around May (GDD 270).
Late spring/early summer:
When they start hatching, they will look like little black insects with white spots, and they will not turn red until about mid-summer. Watch out for the combination of honeydew/black sooty mold/wasp swarms around your trees, because it could be an indicator of an invasion.
In Review
To review, Spotted Lanternfly is an invasive insect that is on the move and we need to try and stop the spread. Its primary host is Tree of Heaven but it can feed on the sap of over 70 different species of plants. When travelling and vacationing this summer, please be diligent in inspecting your vehicles, camping equipment, and basically anything that is exposed and stationary for more than a couple of hours, especially in known outbreak areas. If found, please report it to the OSU Extension office so we can help better understand this insect. We will keep everyone up to date (check our ARBOR ED™ section) on any new information and let you all know if we receive any news about confirmed populations in our area.
[Images courtesy of Ohio State University Extension, New Jersey DOA, Pennsylvania DOA / Drawings by Kenny Greer, Russell Tree Experts]
Lindsey Rice | Office Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Lindsey joined Russell Tree Experts in 2015 with a B.S. in Agribusiness and a minor in Horticulture from The Ohio State University. Growing up in Northwest Ohio, she participated in various sports, band, and FFA which ultimately inspired her love for the tree industry. She loves to spend her free time outdoors with her husband and daughters.
What's Wrong with my Sycamore & Maple?
"Why does my beautiful maple have ugly black spots on its leaves?" "Why is my American sycamore bare this year” …To answer these questions, we need to go back to a chilly, wet evening 5 weeks ago. On May 5th, the temperature dropped overnight to 41 degrees just after an early morning shower that day. We continued this cool, wet trend for 10 lousy days, and…
©Russell Tree Experts
"Why does my beautiful maple have ugly black spots on its leaves?""Why is my American sycamore bare this year?"By Krista Harris
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A
May 22, 2025
Anthracnose fungus attacks newly emerging leaves in the spring when the weather is just right for disease development. The symptoms vary from host to host, but typically infected leaves will have irregular dark spots along veins. Eventually, the leaf will curl, die, and fall. In the case of the sycamore, often the leaf buds are killed before they have even had a chance to emerge.
[Sugar Maple leaf before and after anthracnose fungus]
©Russell Tree Experts
Anthracnose fungus affects many deciduous trees and seems to be most noticeable this year on sycamore and maple in our area. I have had at least 10 customers per week concerned that their beloved trees were dying due to this fungus. I have also been driving by my favorite American sycamores around my home, only to find them very sparsely leafed and struggling. This includes Upper Arlington's oldest tree, an amazing 3 stemmed beauty that our team pruned a few months ago.
©Russell Tree Experts
[American Sycamore leaves with anthracnose fungus]Thankfully, I have wonderful news for the stewards of these afflicted trees. Anthracnose is a cosmetic disease for the majority of trees! If the tree is otherwise healthy and well established, it will be just fine. It will replace those lost leaves in July when conditions no longer favor anthracnose development.
How can you help trees with this seasonal infection?
Water your trees during our hot, dry summers! Concentrate the water at the ground level only, do not splash the leaves. All trees will appreciate the extra water, but those that have lost their leaves and are attempting to replace them will relish it! ARTICLE: HOW TO WATER YOUR TREES
Prune your trees for better air circulation and light penetration. This will help the leaves dry faster and it will be harder for the fungus to spread.
Dispose of affected leaves so that the spores are not hanging around next year to re-infect your tree.
Consider fertilizing your trees in the spring so that they have the needed nutrients to stay healthy (and possibly put on 2 sets of leaves if it is another good year for anthracnose infection).
Above all, do not panic! We cannot control the weather or the fungus. Just concentrate on overall tree health and by mid-summer, the trees will have recovered and this disease will be just a bad memory. For a free tree quote by one of our 20+ ISA Certified Arborists®, visit RussellTreeExperts.com/Quote or speaker to our friendly, local office staff at (614) 895-7000!
Please note: This article was originally published on 6/14/2021 and was revised on 5/22/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED™ ARTICLES!
Krista Harris | Journeyperson, Russell Tree Experts
Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia. [BS in Horticulture Crop Science, The Ohio State University / ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6699A / ODA Comm. Pesticide Lic. #148078]
17
Seventeen years ago near this season I was starting my second year as an arborist in training. A few months more into the year and I would be applying to the ISA to sit for the Certified Arborist examination, which thankfully I would pass. At this point in my career, I was fortunate to be working under a foreman who was (and is) passionate about trees, so as I learned primarily about climbing and pruning, I was also being taught about CODIT, tree identification, and common tree pests and diseases.
Seventeen years ago near this season I was starting my second year as an arborist in training. A few months more into the year and I would be applying to the ISA to sit for the Certified Arborist examination, which thankfully I would pass. At this point in my career, I was fortunate to be working under a foreman who was (and is) passionate about trees, so as I learned primarily about climbing and pruning, I was also being taught about CODIT, tree identification, and common tree pests and diseases.
For those who mark time by political events, George W. Bush was president at the time, serving the first of what would be two consecutive terms.
Technologically, the first iPhone was still not to be available for another 3 years, so we were truly living in a different world. I think it was around this time that I purchased my first mobile telephone after stubbornly holding out for several years.
Ecologically, 2004 was the first year I directly experienced the effects of the 17-year cicada. Since then the world has turned and changed until the different cogs and wheels have aligned once more to allow the offspring of that very brood to emerge. As I sit and write this, the final instar (development stage) of those eggs that were laid 17 years ago are undergoing the last steps of maturation, soon to emerge as adults. I imagine them crawling up out of the ground, squinting at the sunlight (as they would if they had eyelids), crawling up a tree, a fence post, and going to sleep one last time. The sleep of pupation ends with an awakening into a new form. For 17 years these nymphs have been slowly growing, feeding on roots underground, changing mostly only in size. Now, something shifts inside and they decide to crawl into that great world above and go to sleep in the sun. And lo and behold, this time they awake as something very different. Who could have guessed that winged creatures would emerge from these slow, crawling, subsurface dwellers? They cast off the old husk of what they were and take to the sky, flying from tree to tree. The world aboveground has changed into something very different from what it was when these eggs were first laid. The changes that humans experience at times so tumultuously may have been experienced by these nymphs as distant rumblings or far off vibrations, or not at all.
What to expect
I have had several clients already ask me about the 17-year cicada, and what should be expected this season. Here is what I recall from my second year as an arborist:
1.
For the squeamish, these insects are a challenge. They are harmless, but they are large and very imposing. As less than graceful fliers, they can be startling when several of them fly into you if you walk past an infested tree. They make a buzzing sound as they fly, clumsily careening off of branches, arms, and faces.
2.
Also for the squeamish, despite the fact that they are harmless, they do not look so. I remember an insect with large clear wings, blackish body, and large, beady, red eyes.
3.
The 17-year cicada makes up for the fact that it is hardly ever around by emerging in large numbers. The noise made by the males as they sing for the females can be quite deafening and is mostly constant. One thinks that the females must be attracted not by the quality of the song, but by the male who can keep shrieking the longest. (And the “singing” is not really that – I imagine the sound is produced by rubbing body parts together similar to a cricket).
4.
The females use an ovipositor to cut slits into the outer twigs of trees, usually choosing twig growth from the previous year. Looking closely at these slits, the eggs are visible as whitish, elongated structures carefully lined up in the slit.
5.
This ovipositing can weaken the stem, causing it to break and hang off the tree. The leaves on the stem die, making the tree appear to have brown flags all over the canopy.
6.
Many times the twigs do not break off, but the wounding on the stem allows an opening for pathogens to enter the tree. I have seen sugar maples with cankers formed on each and every twig that had cicada oviposition, creating a very spectacular appearance in the tree.
I have also noted mature pear trees going into decline in the years following a cicada infestation – the declining growth can be traced back to the year the eggs were laid on the stem.
Regarding that last point – I always wondered if the decline was associated with some unknown pathogen vectored by the cicadas. Then I recently listened to a lecture by Dr. Klooster at OSU. She explained that in the final year prior to cicada adult emergence the nymphs were at their largest size, and fed most heavily on tree roots prior to emerging for their pupation into adults. Given the decline in trees that I had traced back to the year of oviposition, in my mind I correlated this heavy root feeding with an additional taxing of tree resources which could cause a temporary decline in the tree. This taxing of resources coupled with potential pathogen entry into the tree at the canopy and root level could definitely cause decline.
As tree owners, what do we do?
The trees I have noticed going into decline following a cicada infestation are thankfully few and far between. For the most part, mature trees deal with the issue quite well. Newly planted trees are another story. A tree that has been recently transplanted is already going through transplant stress. The added stress of twig damage and possible foliage loss from the ovipositing female can harm smaller trees. Given their size, these trees can be wrapped with netting to keep the cicadas from accessing the outer canopy. My wife was able to find a sale of material called tulle – it is a light netting that I hope to be able to use to wrap my younger trees to avoid most of the damage. If I am successful, this means that I will also avoid the first hatchling nymphs dropping into the soil below my trees and feeding on the tree roots for the next 17 years. My advice is to wait until the new leaves have hardened off and then use a light netting small enough to keep the cicadas out. Cover the tree canopy and monitor to make sure no adults are getting in. Once the cicadas are gone the netting can be removed. From what I recall it seemed like the cicadas emerged sometime in June and persisted for several weeks into the summer. I can state with confidence that if this brood is going to be a damaging presence in your landscape you will not be unaware of it.
In closing
In closing, I think of all the changes that have taken place since 2004. We are on our fifth presidential term since President Bush’s first term 17 years ago. Most of us now possess a smartphone of some kind, and spend a lot of time staring at it. In 2004 I never dreamed I would live through a pandemic! My hair has gone gray, and I have a lot less of it. A friend introduced me to an amazing woman who later agreed to become my wife. More than half of the time I have been part of the team at Russell Tree Experts.
Take stock for a moment. This is an interesting milestone. The 17-year cicadas may be an inconvenience, but the regularity of this brood (and there are several other broods that emerge at different time intervals) is actually quite fascinating. Why 17 years? And how 17 years? Who is counting for the insect? Theories abound, and other stories, but the rebellious part of me enjoys knowing that we don’t really know. In the meantime, I will sign off, wondering for a moment where I will be 17 years from now. Just think, it will be 2038. We will have gone through three or four more presidents after President Biden. Who knows what technology will be in our pockets? If I am not retired yet, I will be looking at retirement right in the face.
Go out and plant a tree this fall. In 17 years it will be big enough that you won’t have to worry about wrapping it with netting.
Nothing like a bit of perspective to balance your day. When the next 17-year cicada brood emerges, most of our current struggles will be almost all forgotten. I hope that serves to keep us from getting too worked up about some things we are going through today.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist, wishing you all the best,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
How to Mulch Around a Tree
By Enrique Arayata
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-7252A
April 7, 2021
Mulching is an important aspect of tree maintenance that is both functional and decorative, adding to your tree’s lifespan and helping it look its best. The main benefits of tree mulching are that it deters weeds, improves soil quality, protects trees from lawnmower damage, insulates soil from extreme temperatures, and retains moisture during hot weather. Today, I would like to talk about some tips and tricks on how to properly mulch a tree. At the top of this article is an instructional video hosted by ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice that can be used to follow along while mulching your own tree!
Example of a properly mulched tree
To mulch a tree, you will need organic wood chip mulch, a shovel, a rake, and personal protective equipment such as safety glasses, gloves, and boots. A wheelbarrow or air spade may potentially be needed depending on the situation. The best time to mulch a tree is in the fall or spring. Many trees are incorrectly mulched when the mulch is too high or when it covers the root collar of the tree, which is where the trunk and roots meet. The mulch only needs to be 1 to 2 inches deep and the root collar should be completely exposed in order to properly receive oxygen. This will help prevent girdling roots, which are roots that wrap around the trunk in search of oxygen. This can suffocate a tree and add unnecessary stress. If your tree has girdling roots or a mulch volcano, you will need to resolve these issues prior to mulching.
If there are no girdling roots, the first step is to pull out any weeds surrounding the base of the tree. Then, you may begin applying mulch in a wide and evenly spread area. For younger trees, it is ideal to mulch all the way out to the canopy drip line, which is where the majority of a tree’s roots extend, but you may have to compromise depending on your landscape.
Example of a canopy drip line
For older trees, this is not as important. You should still see similar results when bringing the mulch out about 3 to 5 feet from the base. You can use a rake, shovel, or your hands to evenly distribute the mulch. The mulch only has to be about 1 to 2 inches deep at most, so make sure you avoid mounding, Leave about 2 to 3 inches of space between the mulch and the root collar in order for the tree to properly receive oxygen and to prevent girdling roots. This will also help prevent any moisture issues, which can lead to disease and rotting. Afterwards, you are all set!
For maintenance, water your mulch whenever it looks dry. Ohio can have inconsistent weather, so there is no need to water it on a scheduled basis. Also, only add mulch whenever it is looking sparse and below that 1 to 2 inch needed depth. Make sure you break up, turn over, and mix in the old mulch to prolong the mulch’s lifespan, prevent any clumping, and to allow maximum movement of oxygen and water. If there are any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comments section below and be sure to watch ISA Certified Arborist Lindsey Rice’s video for a visual guide on this topic! Good luck on your next mulching project!
Additional Reads!
Below are two excellent articles written by our ISA Certified Arborists related to mulch volcanoes and girdling roots.
”Mulch Mounds! Oh My!”
by ISA Board Certified Master Arborist José Fernández
“Are Your Trees Being Suffocated By Their Own Roots?”
by ISA Certified Arborist Chris Gill
Enrique Arayata I Media Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Enrique is an ISA Certified Arborist® and FAA Certified Remote Pilot. In his free time, he enjoys working out, hanging out with his family and girlfriend, video production, photography, cars, technology, and cooking. Enrique has a BA in moving image production with a double minor in film studies and studio art specializing in photography from The Ohio State University, and an AA in web graphic design from DeVry University. His favorite tree is the Kwanzan cherry tree.
Is my boxwood trying to tell me something?
A truly fascinating and audible phenomenon is happening in Ohio gardens right now. The tiny worm-like larvae of the boxwood leaf miner have awoken and are voraciously feeding inside boxwood leaves.
A truly fascinating and audible phenomenon is happening in Ohio gardens right now. The tiny worm-like larvae of the boxwood leaf miner have awoken and are voraciously feeding inside boxwood leaves. This chewing can be so noisy that it can be heard standing several feet away, as I experienced while inspecting a property in Lewis Center last week. Typically, though, a crackling noise can be heard by putting your ear near an “unhealthy-looking” boxwood this time of year. If you gently break open a leaf, you will discover the hungry invaders, wiggling between the leaf surfaces.
Hear the sound of larvae feeding on the leaves of a boxwood — just Ignore the sound of the chirping birds!
These larvae will soon, within weeks, finish their development and exit the leaves as adult flies. They resemble small yellow or orange mosquitoes that hover around the shrub while they breed and lay eggs inside the new boxwood spring leaves. The eggs hatch in summer and begin to devour the internal leaf tissue causing blister-like wounds. A boxwood that has been infested for a few years will look sickly in general with yellow, orange, or brown splotches on the leaves. Defoliation and even death is possible if the infestation is extensive and left untreated.
Gently break open a leaf to witness the hungry invaders. © Russell Tree Experts
If you notice a ruckus coming from your shrubs this spring, do not ignore it. Eavesdrop on them yourself or call Russell Tree Experts to have one of our knowledgeable arborists diagnose this pest and evict them from your shrubbery.
I wish you a lovely spring filled with the sounds of songbirds, not munching maggots.
Krista Harris | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Krista grew up in the central Ohio area and became an ISA certified arborist in 2017. She graduated from The Ohio State University with a Bachelor of Science in Crop Science and a minor in Plant Pathology in 2000 and has been in the green industry ever since. Her favorite trees are the American sycamore, American beech, and giant sequoia.
Lecanium Scale (Part Two)
Recently one of my clients in Dublin ended up with three crabapple trees that had a heavy infestation of lecanium scale. We tried some treatments but the trees had declined and the client made the wise decision to remove and replace them.
[Note: For an introduction to this insect pest and as background for this article, please read Part One here, if you have not already done so.]
What I Found, and What I Predict
I started working with Russell Tree Experts in April of 2012. Soon after that my colleagues and I became aware of a major epidemic of lecanium scale in communities on the east side of Columbus. Entire streets had trees that were covered in scale, noticeable to the eyes of discerning arborists because of how black the trees looked as we drove by. We watched in chagrin as the epidemic worked its way west. As the scale populations increased in my areas (central and western communities), I could no longer jokingly rib my colleagues about how they were not taking care of the trees in their areas. We were doing what we could, but many of the infested trees were larger ornamental pear, crabapple, and cherry trees that are not the best candidates for cover sprays. Recently one of my clients in Dublin ended up with three crabapple trees that had a heavy infestation of lecanium scale. We tried some treatments but the trees had declined and the client made the wise decision to remove and replace them.
Last year during a regular fertilization visit to this property, Andy, one of our Tree Wellness arborists, made a note that another tree had scale, this time in the back yard. I stopped out soon after to take a look. Here is what I found:
Second-instar nymphs that overwintered on the tree stems. Note white waxy covering beginning to form. Scales are in their final fixed position, actively feeding and growing. Note droplets of honeydew here and there.
Each of these nymphs will mature into adult females that will be about 10 times their current size by the time they lay their clutch of 100 or more eggs.
This is a new infestation. An old infestation would also have the dead female bodies of last year’s adults alongside the current generation. They would be dark brown and about the size of BBs used for air gun ammunition.
© Russell Tree Experts
I made some notes for treatment recommendations and discussed options with the client. He decided not to pursue treatment. This was on April 23rd.
Nearly 6 weeks later in early June, I went back to this property for a different reason. While I was here I inspected the small crabapple. Much to my surprise, the second-instar nymphs had not grown. By this time they should have been at or near adult size, and they would be soft and slimy when crushed. I brushed some of the scales with my fingers and they rubbed off the tree stem like gray ash. They were dead. I checked the tree all over – no adults, all scales were dead. This tree had been treated with something very effective. You will recall from the first article that the insect stage most vulnerable to treatment is the first-instar nymph stage, which hatches from eggs laid by the adults that these second-instar nymphs would have become.
I knocked on the door.
During the ensuing conversation I found out that indeed, the tree had been sprayed with an unknown solution recommended somewhere on the internet. I encouraged my client, feeling very proud that they had taken matters into their own hands. “You killed every single scale!” I told him.
I shared the story with TJ back at the office and asked TJ to ask the client for the recipe when he talked to him to confirm our next visit to the property.
A week or two later, another client appeared on my calendar. Her problem was dieback on a crabapple, and Oakland nursery had recommended that she call us. As I walked around the front corner of the house I noticed lecanium scale on a shrub in the front bed. “Hmmm…” I thought. So I was not surprised when I saw the crabapple, a nice one, also had a heavy infestation of lecanium scale. There were the adults as expected.
Then I looked more closely. By this time of year there should have only been dying and dead adults on the tree, with possibly some first-instar nymphs feeding on the leaves. But here were dead adults alongside second-instar nymphs on the twigs. Not a single first-instar nymph to be found under a single leaf. I rubbed my finger across a few of the nymphs… Sure enough, they rubbed off easily, like ash.
Now my thoughts went back to the first client who had sprayed his tree with a home-cooked remedy. I carefully interviewed the current client and she was positive that no treatment of any kind had been made on her tree. I started to wonder.
This became a trend for the next few weeks, such that when I encountered lecanium scale several more times I was no longer surprised to see the same thing. This made me realize that the problem for the scale, and the blessing for the infested trees, had to be environmental.
Late winter of 2020 we had a two-week period of what I called “false spring”, when temperatures were far too warm for the season and I silently directed my thoughts to my trees, asking them not to believe that winter was over. Of course they ignored me and began to leaf out and flower. Then winter raged back in and the new growth was burnt, flower buds died, and spring looked less vibrant when it actually came on its normal schedule weeks later.
After that false spring, we had no less than 4 nights during two separate weeks when temperatures dropped well below freezing. I disguised my Japanese maples as ghosts using bedsheets to protect them from freezing after they had budded out. It was to no avail - all the new growth got burnt off. The same thing happened to many of you as well, since the cold snaps were widespread.
I propose the hypothesis that the second-instar nymphs of lecanium scale also believed in the false spring, and emerged along with their host plants. When the temperatures plunged below freezing four times during a prolonged cold spring all those nymphs were killed. Just like that, entire populations of this scale were dead. How many of you recall that we had snow on Mother’s Day last year? Well, if my hypothesis is correct, I present you with a blessing disguised as a late snow: For many of my clients the problem of a large population of a serious insect pest had been solved without applying a single drop of insecticide. That greatly helped me bear the disappointment of my disfigured Japanese maples!
Based on this hypothesis I close this article by making the prediction that this 2021 season my colleagues and I will continue to confirm a crash in the general population of lecanium scale. Those large trees that were not good candidates for topical sprays? No need to spray them after all. Though lecanium scales have their place within their ecosystem, when their population reaches damaging levels it is gratifying to see widespread control that has taken place with no human intervention. My only hope is that beneficial insects did not suffer in the same way.
As I close I have mixed feelings about how plants and insects are very much at the mercy of the environment. But I hope I have achieved my goal in sharing all this with you. By writing this I hoped you could see a little of what it is like when arborists try to decipher the clues they find from client to client, from tree to tree, from insect to insect. And I am still relieved to know that the lecanium epidemic may very well have been stopped in its tracks, at least for a time.
May you all be well, and may this coming season be full of “long days and pleasant nights.”
Your friendly neighborhood arborist,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
Best Practices for Watering Your Trees
Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.
Please note: This article was originally published on 8/13/2020 and was republished on 8/1/2023.
Last Fall I planted a Nikko maple (Acer maximowiczianum) for one of my neighbors. Somewhat uncommon, Nikko maple is a small statured, 20 - 30’ at maturity, trifoliate, hardy tree with nice fall color. It has good urban tolerance and was a good fit for its location with overhead utilities. I have been watering this tree somewhat regularly with a large watering can that I can easily carry across the street and have been pleased with the healthy appearance and good amount of new growth that has emerged this year. As far as I could tell the tree looked great so you can imagine my surprise when I came home recently from a long weekend getaway and discovered that the top half of the tree’s canopy had turned brown.
I approached the tree expecting to see an insect infestation, disease presence, or mechanical damage from my neighbor getting to close with his string trimmer. I could find none of these things. Upon closer inspection I noticed that the soil around the base of the tree was cracked, hard and dry and that I simply had allowed the root system to dry out. I felt like such a greenhorn. I immediately watered the tree with a slow deep soaking and will continue to do so through the end of October.
© Russell Tree Experts
An arborist is not supposed to make this mistake but I share this story to show you how it can happen to anyone and to illustrate that there is a better way to water, and that watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees.
Many of the calls that come through our office are a result of improper tree watering, both directly and indirectly. Some are regarding trees that were planted and simply never watered, others are regarding trees that have experienced significant drought stress and now have been impacted by pest and/or disease problems targeting a vulnerable host.
Drought stress develops in trees when available soil water becomes limited. Newly planted trees are at the highest risk of drought stress because they do not have an extensive root system. As the soil dries it becomes harder and more compact reducing oxygen availability. When this happens young feeder roots can be killed outright further reducing the trees ability to absorb sufficient water even after it may return to the soil.
Why is water important to trees? Trees require water for two important functions: (1) Photosynthesis: the process by which plants synthesize food and (2) Transpiration: a process where water evaporates from the leaves and is drawn up from the roots helping to move nutrients up the tree.
No water in the soil means no nutrient transfer and no photosynthesis. This generally equates to tree death.
Knowing the best way to deliver water is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees so here are some basic guidelines and tips to follow to make sure you are getting the most out of your watering efforts:
When to water
Newly planted trees should be watered one to two times per week during the growing season. The best time to water is early in the morning or at night. This allows trees the opportunity to replenish their moisture during these hours when they are not as stressed by hot temperatures. Watering at night allows more effective use of water and less loss to evaporation. Side note: If watering at night, a system that directs water into the ground and away from the foliage is recommended. Some foliar fungal diseases like apple scab or needle cast can thrive on foliage that remains wet through the cool nighttime hours.
How to Water
The best way to water newly planted trees is slowly, deeply and for a long time so that roots have more time to absorb moisture from the soil. A deep soaking will encourage roots to grow deeper as opposed to frequent shallow watering which can lead to a shallow root system more vulnerable to drying out (like my Nikko maple).
I like to water trees slowly two different ways. Around my house I use a garden hose with the pressure turned low so that water is coming out at a slow trickle. I place the end of the hose on the root ball a few inches away from the main stem and leave it in place 30 - 60 minutes depending on the size of the tree. This should be done at least once a week during the growing season. Verify that water is coming out slowly and seeping into the soil rather than just running off into the lawn. For trees that are outside the range of my hose, I like to use 5-gallon buckets with two small holes poked in the bottom of one side. These can be filled up quickly with the hose but will drain slowly, ideal for a slow soaking. Two 5-gallon buckets once a week should suffice for most newly planted trees, depending on the size.
Where to water
It is important to understand that for the first growing season after planting, most newly planted tree's roots are still within the original root ball. This is where watering efforts should be focused. The root ball and the surrounding soil should be kept evenly moist to encourage healthy root growth. It can take two or more growing seasons for a tree to become established and for its roots to venture into the soil beyond the original root ball.
Trees under stress from disease or insect predation and trees in restricted root zones (trees surrounded by pavement) could take longer to establish.
Other important tips
Avoid fertilizing during drought conditions - synthetic fertilizers can cause root injury when soil moisture is low. Fertilizing in the summer could also cause additional new growth requiring additional moisture to support it.
A 1 - 2” layer of organic mulch over the root zone of the tree will help to conserve water.
The goal of watering is to keep roots moist but not wet. Excessively saturated conditions can also damage tree roots.
A “good rain” or even an irrigation system is not sufficient for most new tree plantings
During extended periods of drought all trees (including established ones) benefit from supplemental watering.
TJ Nagel & José Fernández posing for a photo for this article! Happy watering, everyone!
© Russell Tree Experts
Remember, proper watering is the single most important maintenance factor in the care of newly planted trees. I am intentionally redundant on this point because it cannot be overstated. Air temperatures, precipitation, tree health, tree size, soil texture, etc. can all influence a tree's need for water. This article is intended to be a basis for proper tree watering procedures and cannot address every tree watering scenario. Happy watering and may your rain barrels always be full.
TJ Nagel | Scheduling Production Manager, Russell Tree Experts
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-6298A // Graduated from The Ohio State University in 2012, Earned B.S. in Agriculture with a major in Landscape Horticulture and minor in Entomology // Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) // Russell Tree Experts Arborist Since 2010
Worms by the Bagful
Worms by the bagful. Bagworms, that is. This interesting insect is not really what we would usually call a worm, but is considered a caterpillar instead. While most caterpillars pupate into a flying adult (moth or butterfly), the female of this species never emerges from her mobile home. The male does, and he flies to the female so they can engage in activities that ensure the species does not die out.
© Russell Tree Experts
Bagworms, that is.
This interesting insect is not really what we would usually call a worm, but is considered a caterpillar instead. While most caterpillars pupate into a flying adult (moth or butterfly), the female of this species never emerges from her mobile home. The male does, and he flies to the female so they can engage in activities that ensure the species does not die out.
© Russell Tree Experts
After mating, both male and female eventually die, leaving many eggs within the female bag. These eggs hatch the following spring to cause more foliar damage as they feed on many kinds of plants, sometimes causing irreversible damage and death if left unchecked.
I focus on this pest for this article because I have been watching for its emergence this season wondering when it would finally show up. Early June is usually when we start seeing the new generation of this pest (630 growing degree days, according to the OSU OARDC calendar available here). Last season I recall bagworms emerging later than usual, and I was curious what would happen this year given the very unusual spring we have had. Yesterday I spotted my first bagworms in a client’s back yard – the smallest I have ever seen yet. The plant had been damaged in the past season by bagworm feeding, and the old adult bags were clearly visible. When I looked closely, I could just make out the very tiny, brand new bagworms moving about as they fed on the plant.
Very tiny, brand new bagworms
© Russell Tree Experts
They had also established on the neighboring, more healthy, plant.
© Russell Tree Experts
I checked the current growing degree days, and we are at 959 today for the area I was in. I can’t say when these baby bagworms were hatched, but it has not been long. I also do not know if there is a period between the hatching of the eggs and the emergence of the caterpillars from the old cocoon. As with everything in nature, there is always variation from season to season, and from place to place within the same season, so scouting is always the best way to determine when pests are present or not.
© Russell Tree Experts
Bagworms feed on a number of species, but evergreen species are the most at risk of permanent damage or death. If an evergreen is defoliated rapidly by large quantities of these mobile marauders, it will likely not have the ability to rapidly regenerate foliage to make up for that which was lost. I commonly drive past juniper, spruce, and arborvitae that have been sheared of green foliage by bagworms.
Thankfully, if caught early, this insect pest is relatively easy to control. Two treatments are sometimes recommended to make sure any late starters are caught during the second round. I routinely show clients what a bagworm looks like because they are very easy to miss within a plant. As they feed and grow they use foliage from the plant they are feeding on to build the bag that gives them their name. This means they look like part of the plant. Once identified though, they are easy to spot. If treatment is no longer an option (when the pest is settled for the winter or no longer actively feeding), removal of the bags by hand is a very good way to control this pest. This method works best on smaller plants since it is essential that every single bagworm is removed from the plant.
Thank you all for taking the time to read this article. If it is shorter and less philosophical than usual, it is because we are striving to keep up with the all the requests for service that keep coming in. I look forward to being able to take a slow breath later in the season and make some time for reflection. In the meantime, thank you very much for trusting us with your trees.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
[Quick fact checks from https://bygl.osu.edu/node/1048 and https://www.mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/help-pests/bagworms.]
A Word of Caution
Earlier this year I attended a talk on plant disease diagnostics as part of my continuing education as an ISA Certified Arborist. The talk was given by a highly respected individual whom I have had the pleasure of learning from since my early days as an arborist in central Ohio. This time, one of the first statements spoken caught my attention immediately. I paraphrase it into something like this:
© Russell Tree Experts
Earlier this year I attended a talk on plant disease diagnostics as part of my continuing education as an ISA Certified Arborist. The talk was given by a highly respected individual whom I have had the pleasure of learning from since my early days as an arborist in central Ohio. This time, one of the first statements spoken caught my attention immediately. I paraphrase it into something like this:
When it comes to health, humans have spent most of their time and effort studying diseases of one single organism – humans. And when we go to a doctor and he or she does not have an immediate answer for what might ail us, we don’t shake our head in wonder and ask “Why? Why don’t you know what is wrong with me?” The doctor may prescribe certain tests to start to gather information on what is wrong with us, and we consider that to be a normal process.
In contrast, arborists and horticulturalists are faced with hundreds of species of plants, each with their own specific array of pests and diseases, and when faced with a problem we can’t immediately identify, saying “I don’t know” may not be considered an acceptable answer by the person whose plant we have been called to save.
This is a difficult subject for me to write about, but maybe sharing a bit of what goes through my mind when trying to figure out what went wrong with a sick or dead plant will help you as a plant owner see how things sometimes go, from an arborist’s perspective.
When I walk up to a plant that is declining, dying, or dead several things go through my mind. They are all based on the scientific concept of the disease triangle (Kenny put together a great summary here), but here are the steps I am following in my mind:
What is the species of plant? Does it look normal for its type?
What are the common issues this plant typically faces? Do the symptoms I am seeing match any of these issues?
What is the immediate environment of the plant? Is it what this type of plant needs to thrive?
Are there signs of pest predation? If no, is the problem root related? If yes, why are the pests here?
My thoughts will go back and forth among these general areas because so much is interconnected. For example, I may see borer activity near the base of the plant, but is that really the causal issue? Perhaps the plant is waterlogged, and has begun to produce alcohol because of that. The alcohol has attracted boring beetles. In this case treating the plant for borers will not make a difference to plant health – they are secondary to the fact that the plant is stressed by environmental conditions.
My main goal as an arborist is to give tree managers (current landscape owners) the best information I can so they can make the best decisions for their situation. For example, some pests and diseases can be treated with high success rates, others not so much. Some treatments, such as fungicide applications, are mostly preventive, and need to be applied frequently through each season for the best chance at being effective. All of this is communicated to the tree manager so the best decision can be made.
There is one thing I can assure each of you of, with confidence: If I know what is wrong with your tree, I will try to walk you through whether treatment is a good option or not. I may say, “X is a known prescribed treatment for this problem. Experience has shown me that sometimes trees respond well to this, and sometimes they do not. Here is the cost of X – it may or may not be the best approach for you or your tree”. You weigh your options and decide what makes the best sense to you. The tree may be an essential part of your landscape, or have great emotional value, meriting a “let’s do everything we can to save it” approach. On the other hand, it may be a tree you really don’t mind phasing out of your landscape, to make room for a tree that is better suited to that particular environment.
Things can get tricky though…
What about fertilization? Well, in most urban landscapes soil quality has proven to be very substandard compared to what trees and shrubs need to thrive. So we commonly recommend a general fertilization to help maintain good health for trees and shrubs. The product we use in particular is very good for this purpose: a low nitrogen formulation blended with organic products that help condition the soil as well as provide nutrients. (Why this is a good formula for trees is a topic that really needs to be discussed, but far larger than space in this installment will allow). Before I get to my word of caution, let me ask two questions:
We know that having good nutrition as people is essential for good health. But will eating the right foods guarantee good health for the rest of your life?
We take our pets to the veterinarian for their regular shots and checkups. Does this guarantee that our pets will never fall ill?
Both scenarios are true for trees, but sometimes I face tough questions from clients whose trees I have been caring for. “You fertilized my trees and shrubs, and now my shrubs are dead.” “I was told by another arborist that my oak had an iron deficiency, and you said to give it manganese instead. It has still not improved.”
I understand where questions like these come from, and I do not want to take them lightly. But I suppose my goal is for people to understand something crucial: I will prescribe what I believe to be the best approach for the health of a given plant, but trees and shrubs can still die. Sometimes I don’t know why. When that happens, there are only a few reasons that hold true:
I prescribed an incorrect treatment. If I did so knowingly, I am a charlatan, and not to be trusted. If unknowingly, perhaps I need more training, or it was a simple mistake.
I prescribed the right treatment, but conditions were such that the tree was too far in decline to begin with.
Something else besides what was being treated for caused the tree to die.
For the first reason, reputation serves to keep me in the clear. Reputation is based on how many people have experienced my service over time. As for learning, hopefully that never stops.
For the second reason, this happens more than I would like, but is only reasonable since by the time a tree is noticeably sick it has usually suffered for several years already. When I recognize this in a tree I try to steer people away from treatments that may not be successful even though they are the proper treatments to prescribe.
The third reason happens quite often as well, especially when environmental conditions change from one season to another.
So where does that leave us? The meaning of a treatment being prescribed and applied by an arborist of good reputation is that he or she believes it is the best next step needed to address a problem. Conversation and questions are always welcome, but we all know that sometimes the answers are not easy. Sometimes the answer requires humility and truth, and it may simply be “I don’t know. Let’s figure out what the next step is.” I have been with Russell Tree Experts for 8 years now, and there have been some difficult moments. But I am happy to say those are in the minority by far! There are many trees I can think of that have responded well to treatment, and are still alive because of it. And there are many tree owners who have lost their trees after attempting treatment who are still able to trust that we did what we could and for whatever reason it just did not work. Both of these scenarios are triumphs in my mind, because both scenarios represent the same good faith effort undertaken by arborist and tree manager working together.
Thank you for taking the time to read this lengthy article. I hope to visit with you in your landscape soon! I would also like to thank Shari Russell, TJ Nagel, and Annette Durbin for taking the time to read and comment on the first draft of this article.
Your friendly neighborhood arborist,
José Fernández | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
José became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2004, and a Board-Certified Master Arborist® in 2015. Currently he is enrolled at The Ohio State University pursuing a Master’s Degree in Plant Health Management. José likes working around trees because he is still filled with wonder every time he walks in the woods. José has worked at Russell Tree Experts since 2012.
When and How to Prune Lilacs
Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are a favorite landscape shrub here in Ohio and beyond, with flowers that provide beauty and an unmistakable fragrance every spring. Other cultivars of lilacs offer different habits and uses in the landscape, but provide the same display of flowers that we all love. In order to ensure you get the most flowers on your lilac year after year, it’s important to know when and how to prune them.
By Walter Reins
ISA Certified Arborist® OH-5113A
March 6, 2025
Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are a favorite landscape shrub here in Ohio and beyond, with flowers that provide beauty and an unmistakable fragrance every spring. Other cultivars of lilacs offer different habits and uses in the landscape, but provide the same display of flowers that we all love. In order to ensure you get the most flowers on your lilac year after year, it’s important to know when and how to prune them.
When To Prune
As a general rule for all lilacs, they should be pruned immediately after they’re done flowering in the spring. Since lilacs set next year’s flower buds right after the current year’s flowers have faded, pruning later in the summer or fall will result in cutting off many or all of next year’s flowers. This rule of timing applies to the larger common lilacs as well as the cultivars that are shorter or more “shrub” like. While the “when” of pruning lilacs is fairly straightforward, the “how” gets a little trickier. To keep things simple for now, we’ll think of lilac pruning as either maintenance pruning or rejuvenation pruning.
How To: Maintenance Pruning
For any lilac shrubs that have not outgrown their space or are still producing vibrant flowers each year, regular pruning can simply consist of any shaping that you choose to do along with removal of dead, diseased, or broken stems. You can also remove spent flowers from your lilacs to help encourage a cleaner growth habit and appearance. It’s always better to do this type of pruning by hand, rather than shearing. When making cuts, try to cut back to an outward facing bud. A good pair of hand pruners is the perfect tool for this and makes for much better pruning cuts than hedge shears.
How To: Rejuvenation Pruning
If you’ve ever had an older common lilac in your landscape that went unpruned for many years, you’re probably familiar with their overgrown, unruly habit when left alone. Many people mistakenly believe that these shrubs have stopped flowering at this point. Oftentimes what’s actually happening is the flowers are being produced on just the upper portions of the shrub where the plant has reached a taller height and is exposed to sunlight. Once they’ve reached this stage, we’re often left to stare at bare, woody branches at eye level and below. For these overgrown shrubs, we can remove entire older canes or stems that are 2” in diameter or larger to encourage a rejuvenation of the shrub. We want to apply the rule of thirds when doing this type of pruning - Remove approximately one third of the older canes or stems each year for 3 years. This gives the shrub a chance to slowly transition back to a fuller, shorter shrub with more new growth filling in from the bottom. If you decide to drastically prune the entire shrub this way all at once rather than just a third of it, a little extra care like fertilization and watering will be important to encourage new growth. Note that this “all at once” approach is generally not recommended for the health of the shrub.
Your lilac flowers can be influenced by many things, including the temperature, soil conditions, even disease and insect problems, but proper pruning goes a long way to ensuring they put on a great show every spring. And remember, if you have specific questions about pruning or anything tree and shrub related, your dedicated Russell Tree Experts arborist is only an email or phone call away.
*New* Video!
To accompany the above article, Walter Reins demos how to prune lilac trees in this new video! Click below!
Please note: This article was originally published on 4/6/2020 and was republished on 3/6/2025.
ADDITIONAL ARBOR ED ARTICLES!
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter became an ISA Certified Arborist® in 2003 and has a degree in landscape horticulture. He has 25 years of experience in the tree and landscape industries and originally began working at Russell Tree Experts in 2011. Walter is also the owner/operator of Iwakura Japanese Gardens, a small design/build/maintenance firm specializing in Japanese-style gardens, and also offers responsible tree planting for all landscapes.
Bend So You Don’t Break
Last summer, I had the opportunity to introduce our field staff to the practice of yoga. In heavy work boots and on a hard concrete floor, we made our way through Triangle Pose, Downward Facing Dog, and even a few Sun Salutations. Practicing yoga for 20 years and teaching it for the last 10, I’ve learned that the stretches and postures of yoga can help keep the joints and soft tissues of our body, like muscles and tendons, healthy and functional.
© Russell Tree Experts
Last summer, I had the opportunity to introduce our field staff to the practice of yoga. In heavy work boots and on a hard concrete floor, we made our way through Triangle Pose, Downward Facing Dog, and even a few Sun Salutations. Practicing yoga for 20 years and teaching it for the last 10, I’ve learned that the stretches and postures of yoga can help keep the joints and soft tissues of our body, like muscles and tendons, healthy and functional. Tree care consists of many tasks that are demanding on the physical body, and yoga is a great way to address tightness in areas like the neck and shoulders, hips and lower back, and even the hands and wrists. This can lead to greater mobility and functional movement when lifting heavy wood or climbing a tree. We now have a regular morning yoga practice at Russell Tree Experts(with mats!), every Tuesday and Thursday before the crews begin their day. Even our mechanics and office staff join in.
This combination of yoga and trees got me thinking back to a significant winter earlier in my career as an arborist. On December 22nd, 2004, Columbus was hit with a nasty winter storm. I was living far enough north of the city at the time that I saw nothing but snow at my home. Columbus, however, received a devastating combination of snow and ice. I was an ill-equipped new homeowner, so after hand-shoveling my 350ft gravel driveway (oh, to be 23 again…), I made my way to work and was in disbelief over what I saw. Because of the heavy ice accumulation, there were trees and limbs down in practically every yard. Many white pines and siberian elms had literally been stripped of every limb and left to look like totems or coat racks. There were also river birch and arborvitae bent over so much (but not broken) that their tops were touching and frozen to the ground. What is typically a slower time of year in the tree care industry proved to be very busy, and day after day of cleanup carried us straight into spring.
That winter provided me with valuable insight into the strengths and weaknesses of trees. Some types of trees with stiffer wood fibers didn’t fare as well, while others that had the ability to bend, but not break, held up much better under heavy loads. Many of those river birch and arborvitae that I mentioned righted themselves by mid-spring and were able to be preserved.
So what does all of this have to do with proper tree care? We obviously cannot change the inherent nature of a tree’s wood fibers and make them bend more or bend less. Nor can we prevent major weather events. But, we can proactively address existing weaknesses in a tree, and we can also ensure that pruning is performed properly, so as not to create a vulnerability that otherwise wouldn't have existed. Just like yoga can help us avoid injury or illness by keeping our bodies flexible and healthy, proper tree care can do the same for our trees. Here are a few examples:
Removing large cracked/broken limbs
These limbs are obvious hazards to targets like homes and pedestrians if they fall out of the tree, but they can also do additional damage to the tree itself. A structurally unsound limb, if left in the tree, can place unwanted stress on otherwise healthy limbs if it breaks but doesn’t fall out completely. Eliminating these defective parts of a tree allows the rest of the canopy to structurally function at its best.
Making proper pruning cuts
When pruning cuts are made correctly, a healthy tree will compartmentalize and attempt to close off the wound that was created. This helps to prevent decay of the woody portion of a limb or trunk that gives a tree its strength. Improper cuts don’t close up correctly and can become areas where decay eventually spreads into the tree. This greatly increases the risk of failure or breaking when forces like wind or ice act upon that part of the tree.
Avoiding “Lion’s Tailing”
This is a term used to describe the improper pruning of a tree where all the lateral branches have been removed from the larger limbs, leaving each of those limbs with brush only at the ends and looking like “lion’s tails”. Aside from aesthetically ruining a tree, this improper method of pruning can actually concentrate forces like wind or added weight at the point of attachment, rather than distributing it throughout the length of the limb. In high winds especially, this can lead to an increased risk of failure.
Minimize staking of new trees
This one has more to do with proper tree planting than it does with proper care of established trees, but it’s worthy of mentioning. Young trees will actually develop stronger roots and wood fibers in response to forces placed upon them. A newly planted tree needs to get “thrown around” a bit in the wind in order to properly establish and “bend” with future stressors rather than “break”(or blow over in this case). Staking a tree, especially beyond the first year, provides an artificial system of support that the tree will come to rely on for as long as it’s in place. Think of it as “tough love” for young trees.
These are just a few key examples of how proper tree care gives our trees a chance to thrive, adding function and value to our landscapes. Prevention is the best medicine - we know this to be true for ourselves, and it’s equally true for our trees.
Were you in Columbus for the winter ice storm of 2004? Leave your stories and experiences of that winter in the comments below. Or do you have a yoga practice and appreciate the strength that comes with flexibility? Share your thoughts with us.
For now, I’m going to work on getting my Oak to try something other than Tree Pose.
Walter Reins | Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.