By Walter Reins
March 20, 2024
“Spare the rod, spoil the child” — This is how I like to explain the staking of trees when someone asks about it. Sometimes the quote works, and other times they look at me funny. While it doesn’t do much to explain how to stake a tree, it’s actually a great way to think about why you may or may not want to stake the tree in the first place. Stick with me and I’ll explain.
For starters, I’m not condoning corporal punishment. Maybe you’re familiar with this somewhat outdated expression. To put it in different words, it could mean “Without discipline, a child doesn’t receive the guidance to grow up strong and self-sufficient.” That sounds better, doesn’t it?! Don’t make the mistake of equating the “rod” to the stake, it’s actually the opposite. The rod in this case represents “discipline” or "hard love.” In other words, not staking the tree if you don’t have to. If that doesn’t make sense yet, it will in a couple of paragraphs.
There are a few situations where staking a tree is beneficial or even crucial to its success. But for the majority of newly planted trees, it’s often not necessary. Let’s start with reasons to stake.
When Staking a Tree is a Good Idea
An existing or newly planted tree that is “loose” at its base due to wind or improper handling when planted. Trees with trunks that can move around in the soil, even a little bit, are at a greater risk of further damage, lean, or complete failure (uprooting/falling over). Temporary and sometimes long-term support may be necessary to stabilize the tree for its own health and also safety.
Newly-planted LARGE trees. These trees often have a much larger canopy-to-rootball ratio, and as a result, are at greater risk of shifting or blowing over from high winds after being planted. They also tend to take longer to re-establish a strong, supportive root system.
An existing tree that is exhibiting a lean due to being located in an area with frequent high winds, or a newly planted tree in this same area.
Same as number 3 but substitute high wind with frequently wet soil.
A newly planted tree being placed on a steep grade or significantly sloped terrain.
Note: The above list does NOT say to “stake all newly planted trees, period.” Let’s revisit the expression at the top of the page to understand why.
Why Staking a Tree is Often Not Necessary
Trees respond to their environments in some pretty fascinating ways. One of those is by changing the amount and quality of tissue that is grown in response to physical stressors (wind, gravity, lean, proverbial rods, etc.) We can call this geotropism (change in response to gravity) or thigmomorphogenesis (change in response to any mechanical or environmental stimulus). Jeopardy, here we come! When we plant a new balled and burlapped tree, many of (most of) the tree’s original root system was lost when it was dug out of the ground. In the case of containerized trees that have all of their root system still intact, that root system is concentrated into a very small space (within the container) and isn’t spreading out into the surrounding soil, at least not at first. In either case, research has shown that trees will often develop a stronger root system, in the long run and under normal conditions initially, when left unstaked and made to withstand these forces. The jostling and moving about that occurs with a newly planted tree in light to moderate winds, or the forces of gravity placed on a tree that has to overcome a slightly sloped terrain, will actually stimulate growth of the root system, much the same way our muscles will grow in response to first being stressed in a workout and technically damaged, but then recovering bigger and stronger than before. To further build on that analogy, that same response can be impacted by other factors, just like in people, like overloading (damaging high winds for a tree/a person trying to lift too much in the gym) or lack of proper nutrition (which impedes proper healing and growth, whether you’re a tree or a person). Under normal conditions, a tree will strengthen its root system and eventually be able to withstand greater forces exerted on its ever-growing canopy.
We’ve discussed when a tree should be staked, and when it shouldn’t. Now let’s talk about how to properly stake a tree when it’s deemed necessary. For the purpose of this article, I’m going to refer to two different types of support as “staking”. This includes actual staking, but also guying. When staking a tree, the materials used and where/how they are installed are very important.
The Stake
For smaller applications, wooden stakes or metal posts may be driven into the ground around the tree, just outside of the root ball (1-2’ form the trunk) or up to a few feet away if conditions require it (space restrictions can sometimes dictate stake placement). Stakes can commonly be 5-6’ in length and driven 1-2’ into the soil, depending on the structure of the soil and how easily it may loosen over time. They can be driven into the ground upright or at a slight angle away from the tree to compensate for the slight pulling forces, towards the tree, that they’ll be subjected to. Use a pole/stake pounder or a sledge hammer to drive the stakes into the ground. It might help to employ a second person for this - best to let them hold the stake. Like trying to swat a fly on someone’s head, it is always better to be the one swinging and not the one being swung at! The number of stakes or posts around a tree can vary, depending on the environment and reasons for staking. A tree subjected to frequent winds always coming from the same direction may simply need one stake upwind from the tree to prevent it from leaning or blowing over in the direction of the wind. A tree in the center of an open backyard, subject to wind from all directions, would do better with 3 stakes, placed in a triangle pattern, to support in all directions.
For larger applications, guying a tree with metal ground anchors may be a better option. A guy wire typically runs from a strong anchor point on the tree down to an anchor inserted in the ground. These are augur-type anchors that turn into the ground and provide an attachment point for wire running from the anchor to the tree. Turnbuckles can be used in these situations to achieve the proper tension on the wires if they’re supporting a tree of significant height and/or spread. This application is rarely something to be undertaken by a homeowner, and is usually performed by a landscape company as part of the initial installation of the trees. However, a homeowner may choose to implement this setup if adding support to an existing established tree that is starting to exhibit a lean due to winds, a damaged root system, or saturated ground (Caution: If you have any doubt as to the stability of a substantially sized tree that appears unstable, do not attempt to remedy it yourself. Call a professional tree care company and have the tree assessed immediately).
The Wire or Strap
There are a number of materials that can be used to connect the tree to the stakes, but no matter what it is, one rule should always be followed - it shouldn’t damage, cut into, or compromise the tree’s branches or bark in any way. Wire remains a cheap and effective material to use, but it’s crucial that it not be directly wrapped around the tree. This will cut into the bark and possibly girdle the stem where it makes contact. Instead, short sections of old garden hose can be cut and used, with the wire running through them, to provide a soft and wide surface to make contact with the trunk of the tree. Straps or rope, if used instead, should be wide enough that they do not cut into the bark. Thin-barked trees such as Red Maples are extremely easy to damage if improperly staked. There are of course many store-bought, application-specific options to choose from that can work wonderfully and provide the right support. Whatever material you are using, the tension between stake and tree does NOT need to be extreme, and should instead be appropriate for the environment. Just enough to prevent excessive movement is usually appropriate. Strong winds or a tree with a larger canopy will call for more tension. Imagine Hippocrates planting this tree and, “First, do no harm.”
Illustration of a recently planted tree with three stakes secured with wire [click to enlarge]
A few more points
There are a few more points worthy of mention. If you determined that a tree needed staking, and after having successfully staked said tree, consider the following:
Check the tree regularly. Every couple of weeks, check to see if the stakes have shifted or loosened in the ground. Check the portion of the support wire or straps that wrap around the tree for any signs of rubbing or wear that could potentially compromise the bark if left as is. Adjustments in tension or placement of support may be necessary.
Remove the stakes after a year. Generally, one full year of root growth and settling of the soil is sufficient to anchor the tree in place and provide adequate support, under normal conditions. Leaving stakes for longer than this can adversely affect the tree’s ability to adapt to its environment.
Fertilize the tree for the first several growing seasons. A growing tree will use all the nutrition you can throw at it (responsibly, left-over Timbits don’t count!). Fertilizing a new tree encourages root and shoot development by providing essential nutrients often lacking in our urban landscape soils. A properly planted, staked as-needed, and well-fed tree is on its way to providing many years of benefit to the landscape.
HOW-TO GUIDE
Click below to download the step-by-step guide!
A Note about Evergreens…
There’s one more application of staking that you’re perhaps wondering about, and curious why I have mentioned it or discussed how to do it - the staking of evergreens with a diagonal wooden stake strapped against the trunk. I’m mentioning it, but not recommending it. This is a very common way for evergreens to be staked, typically when installed by a landscape company, and a very common way to cause long term problems if forgotten about. In the 25 years I’ve been working in the green industries, I’ve seen countless examples of these stakes having been left in place, forgotten about as the tree put on new growth and concealed the stake and support materials. Out of sight, out of mind. This often leads to a girdling of the main stem (trunk) at the location where the strap or wire was placed, years after planting, and only discovered when the top half of the tree suddenly and “mysteriously” starts to die. If you absolutely must stake a tree in this manner, use natural twine, not any synthetic material to attach the wooden stake to the tree. This will break down after 1-2 years and is much less likely to girdle the main stem of the tree if forgotten about.
Remember, the staking of a tree is unnecessary more often than not. When you or a professional deem it a good idea, proper stake installation with appropriate materials will ensure that the stake benefits the tree and causes no long term harm. Please note that Russell Tree Experts does not offer the planting or staking of trees, but is always happy to provide professional advice for all things tree and shrub related. Contact us with any questions you have about your trees and landscape.
Walter Reins I Regional Manager, Russell Tree Experts
Walter has been an ISA Certified Arborist since 2003. He graduated from Montgomery College in Maryland with a degree in Landscape Horticulture, and has called Columbus, OH his home for nearly 20 years. Walter appreciates trees for their majesty and the critical role they play in our world.